W(o/a)nderings

Sugar Rush

2010-11-29T10:35:00.004+05:30

"One foot after another, the swish, the frozen stiff air forced into spirals around my thighs, the engine within clamoring to toss more coals on the fire and steam bursting forth into a cloud sliced down the middle by my nose...

Ahead of me, the hills loom. I think I can, puff, slice. I think I can, puff, slice, swish.

Skirting trees dusted with powdered sugar, dodging patches of glazed sidewalk, an encouraging smile and wave from an elderly woman with a walker... reminds me why I run, while I can, in this sweet winter wonderland.

Best Town Names

2010-11-10T02:08:00.003+05:30

I found this funny little article in a Reader's Digest Magazine and thought y'all might get a kick out of it as well :)

"I was holed up in Boring, Oregon wondering whether I should try someplace different. So I hopped in my car and drive to Why, Arizona to figure things out. After a few days I found my answer in Whynot, Mississippi: I needed a town with some life to it. I made a beeline for Disco, Tennessee, where I danced so much, I wore out my shoes. The next day I headed to Loafers Glory, North Carolina, for a new pair. Afterward I looked sharp enough to take a break in Handsome Eddy, New York. Eddy wasn't around, but I knew where to find him - in Loveladies, New Jersey, where it seemed that all the women were trying to get to Husband, Pennsylvania. It was a tough town. One gal told me my romancing needed some work and sent me to Sweet Lips, Tennessee. Heartbroken, I put the car on cruise control and drove to Lonelyville, New York, for a stiff drink. I made a pit stop in The Bottle, Alabama and finally hit rock bottom in Condemned Bar, California. Not surprisingly, I woke up the next morning in Cranky Corner, Louisiana. I knew that if I continued like this, I'd be headed straight to Hell, Michigan. Pulling myself together, I grabbed breakfast in Oatmeal, Texas, lunch in Sandwich, Massachusetts and dessert in Pie Town, New Mexico. I should have stopped eating after Greasy, Oklahoma, because I was feeling pretty sick by the time I left Lick Skillet, Tennessee. In Brilliant, Ohio, it finally dawned on me - I had to cease my wandering ways. I parked in Do Stop, Kentucky, took out the map and chose my new home. I didn't need Wealthy, Texas, or Fame, West Virginia. I found everything I needed in Happyland, Oklahoma." - Andy Simmons

Featured Post

2010-10-26T12:57:00.004+05:30

Although I've fallen dreadfully behind in my own blog, I managed to submit a piece for my Alma Mater's Alumni blog. Check it out if you get the chance and let me know what you think!

www.pacificalumni.blogspot.com

I promise a personal update soon!

Rwanda & Burundi

2010-09-03T17:21:00.010+05:30

I spent a mere week in Rwanda, a country dubbed the 'Switzerland of Africa'. Although Uganda was also a land of dense green, scrunched hill upon hill, thick forests, and tiny villages, Rwanda did indeed surprise me with its sheer natural beauty, unique landscape as well as the level of development.

After leaving Kampala, (not without taking a bite out of the famed nightlife, two nights in a row working magic on the dance floor 'til dawn, watching movies and wandering the city with a fellow couchsurfer Stephan, getting my hair braided with super hero blue lightening bolts, (much to the glee of the salon :), and topping it all off by attending a ba'hai sunday service in a temple, in which they opened all 6 sets of double doors in around the circular chapel so that the light mixed with the choir voices, swirling around, up to the turquoise ceiling and back down to each person... enchanting!), I took a night bus to Kisoro. I was warned against doing so, but found no other option so off we went into the darkness.

Let me just say, in my humble opinion, Ugandan bus drivers drive like they clinically insane. The road was, as usual, underdeveloped, pitted and potholed as well a continuous series of winding switchbacks and you would not believe the speeds in which we were flying! I lost count of the number of times that every passenger was ejected from their seats and in one, very harrowing instance, the bus nearly crashed, grinding to the right, wheels on my side in the air, people tossed to the side, ladies calling upon "Jesus Christ!" clutching their babies and suddenly we pitched the other direction, a plume of dust filled the bus, we wobbled, found a balance, and amazingly did not slow down AT ALL! The passengers complained loudly, but there was a wall between the cabin and the driver and I, having remained surprisingly calm, kept trying to assure myself that I was going to see the gorillas. We were not going to crash, because I could feel I would see the gorillas... the power of positive thought I figured :).

Fortunately, we made it in one piece, I tracked down a hotel that had rooms with private bathrooms and hot water - I needed a shower after what turned out to be a 12 hour journey (vs. the claimed 8). Alex in Kampala had helped me arrange a permit so I checked in at the office and prepared for tracking gorillas the next day.

The visitors center at Mgahinga National Park is very well developed with a lot of information about the animal life in the forest and the history of the protective efforts for the endangered mnt. gorillas. I was signing in and suddenly there was a rustle behind me. The trail into the forest came to a T just a couple meters from the visitors center and a man came running from around the corner. A giant flash of gray whizzed by followed by a loud CRACK! BANG BANG! "Was that a gorilla?" I asked. Another man raced across the T following the flash with a gun in his hands. Another couple shots rang out and three hikers emerged, huddled together, one girl clutching her back. We had seen these hikers enter the forest just a minute or two earlier and apparently they had come face to face with an angry buffalo who had knocked her down and stepped on her before running away... THIS is why you go hiking in Africa!! It was an exciting opening to our own gorilla tracking.

After a short briefing, four paying trackers including myself, our guide, and our security set out to meet a man with a machete who would lead us to where the gorillas were last sighted and we would track them from there. Because of the buffalo incident, our guide chose to take us around the base of the mountain, outside the forest through charming settlements. As always, children came running from their hiding places and farm animals paid us no attention. Once we forged into the forest, the path, when there was one, was steep. We bushwhacked to an opening where we came upon the most beautiful creatures! I massive silverback gorilla, turned to glance at us and I imagined him thinking, 'Ah... they're back'. I wonder if they notice it's different people each time or if the presence of a few familiar faces is all that matters.

We were meeting the 9 members of the Nyakagezi family. The only family of the three in Mgahinga that is habituated to humans. We kept an average of 7m distance and were allowed to follow them as they moved from tree to tree to bush for a maximum of one hour. The babies swung haphazardly from limbs and the incredibly muscled silverbacks lazed on the ground, sometimes rolling around and even reaching over to caress the babies when they came near. They are so human-like! I wanted so badly to go up and cuddle with them, just to be enveloped in their enormous arms, a giant gorilla hug! They really seemed not to care at all that we were following them and the next thing you know, our time was up and we had to return, bidding farewell to our distant relatives.

The next morning I hired a motorcycle taxi to take me and my seemingly-heavier-by-the-day backpack to the border. Just 10k, but along the ubiquitous bumpy, rocky, uneven roads that I've become used to. My abs and quads were straining to keep me upright as gravity tugged on my bag. I have imagined myself falling off one of these moto-taxis on numerous occasions as we rumbled along, and now, I need not wonder any longer. On one particularly steep hill, the bike slowed to chug it's way up and I felt that hand of gravity tighten and yank me backwards. I'm sure with the upmost of grace, I fell off the bike and down the hill. Tangled in the straps, I lay there for a moment before righting myself and dusting off the scratches. My driver, horrified, rushed to help me and would not let me touch the bag, but insisted on carrying it in front of him, however uncomfortable, which actually made the ride a lot easier. Once at the border, I walked into no-mans land, signed out with the police in their little shack, signed out with immigration and for the first time, there was no visa fee to enter the next country!

My first stop, Gisenyi, a resort town for the Rwandan wealthy was somewhat unimpressive. I had decided to hop the border into the Democratic Republic of the Congo, but recently the border rules changed due to corruption, so I would have to email some director in advance, receive an official letter of invitation and then proceed (with a possible tripling or more of the visa fee?), so that was out. Instead, I continued on down Lake Kivu, one of the most scenic drives of my entire trip through gleaming tea plantations, so many hills you'd think they stole them from neighboring countries, each with several little huts perched atop and interesting little villages sprinkled throughout. Kibuye is a small town and the real highlight has been the Bethany hotel. Set right on the water, a gorgeous view of the peaceful lake from my porch and wifi (such a luxury)! I went for a jog followed by a swim in my own little cove this morning and feel so refreshed!

My first stop, Gisenyi, a resort town for the Rwandan wealthy was somewhat unimpressive. I had decided to hop the border into the Democratic Republic of the Congo, but recently the border rules changed due to corruption, so I would have to email some director in advance, receive an official letter of invitation and then proceed (with a possible tripling or more of the visa fee?), thus, with my limited schedule, I did not have the time to verify and so that option was unfortunately out. Instead, I continued on down Lake Kivu, one of the most scenic drives of my entire trip through gleaming tea plantations, so many hills you'd think they stole them from neighboring countries, each with several little huts perched atop and interesting little villages sprinkled throughout, often along the edge of a steep dropoff and the most comanding views! Kibuye is a small town and the real highlight has been the Bethany hotel. Set right on the shore, a gorgeous view of the peaceful lake with it's many hills tipping into the waters from my porch and I must not forget the wireless internet (such a luxury)! I went for a jog in the morning followed by a swim in my own little cove and wonder if there is anything so refreshing!

I made the short two and a half trip to the capital of Kigali through even more inspiring countryside and met Hannes, another couchsurfer who invited me to join him and a local friend to the Kigali Expo. A two week event focusing on commerce during the day and turning into a random bunch of stages with dancers and DJs. I was SO entertained! I think by this time it is clear that I like to dance, but for once I was more interested in watching the locals dance! The majority male crowd danced together so very enthusiastically, perhaps it had something to do with the late hour and the generous amounts of beer available, but I had never seen anything like it. Dressed to the nines, with fedoras and scarves and chic style, they had a repertoire of dance moves that made me grin.

The following day, I ventured into the city on foot, first crossing a valley, one of the many as the city is built on even more hills than Kampala. To get anywhere requires several ups and downs, but it was warm and quite a pleasant walk. The first thing I noticed was how very clean the city was. More so than any other capital and the streets were wide and fairly well developed. Rwanda is the first (and only that I know of) country that requires motortaxis to not only wear, but provide helmets and they actually follow the rules of the road. There was an order and a sense of progress absent in my previous travels that was impressive. Kagame, the president of Rwanda who was actually being sworn in for a third term of seven years on the Monday that I was in town, is apparently attempting to turn the city into an attractive place for investments and business development by, among other things, installing a network of fiber optics. I see a lot of interesting changes taking place here in the next decade.

That night, I was invited into a Rwandan home to celebrate a birthday and served dish after dish of delicious food and the following day, thwarted by bouts of serious downpoor as well as the inexplicable closure, I was unable to visit the genocide memorial, but did manage to try the popular Rwandan buffet for dinner and check out a couple afterhours hotspots.

The next morning, I awoke early to catch a 7hr bus to Bujumbura, the capital of Burundi. I had heard conflicting information about requiring a special invitation to enter, and the price of the visa ranging from $20-$50 USD, but I already missed out on the Congo so I was going to try my luck at the Burundian border. Luck was with me and the visa, with the assistance of a very helpful local, was easy to obtain and only $20! Yet another extremely helpful Rwandan (thank you again Fabrice!) who happened to study in the US, was absolutely a life-saver as Burundi is even more francophone and my limited french was very ineffective. We discovered, after a lengthy process and several motortaxi rides that there were no passenger ferries running to Tanzania, which is a shame because I had heard the trip down Lake Tanganika, one of Africa's deepest, is beautiful. This means my last week will be spent retracing my steps, busing back up and around Lake Victoria (rather than through Tanzania, which would take the same amount of time, but offers no direct buses and no paved roads... I debated for quite some time over which route to take, usually preferring the more rustic/scenic route, but in end decided to visit my friends in Kamapala and Nairobi once more).

Skipped Highlights

2010-09-03T17:14:00.003+05:30

I've missed a couple major stories, so here is a quick synopsis:

The wedding in Arusha

The most random series of events that I have ever witnessed. Dan and I, dressed to the nines in our new, custom tailored African duds, danced and laughed our way through approximately 8 hours of one odd tradition after another, an absolutely stoic, straightfaced wedding party, standing in the back of a truck with the band as we circled the prominant round-a-bouts in town and stopped to take pictures in the middle of one, watched 60+ yr old ladies popin' their booty like they were 40 yrs younger, were called to dance down the aisle to the front and then fed bits of cake in front of everyone and watched strange performances including a man with socks on his hands dancing on his knees with empty glass bottles in his hands and mouth! This was one of the highlights of my time in Africa!

Hunting with the Bushmen

We awoke very early in order to find the Bushmen around dawn. Our lug of a bus trundled through the bush until suddenly we spotted a fire just off the way and could just make out figures hidden behind the brush. Once we disembarked, they wasted no time in frivolities, handed two of us bows (I got one! :) and began jogging away - no words necessary, we were off! To be honest, "hunting" with a bunch of tenderfoot westerners loping behind, I can't imagine they really expected to make a kill, although I have heard of others getting lucky. There was one point in which some little furry animal rushed by and although I drew my bow, there is no way I ever would have let an arrow fly. I ammused myself quite contentedly running around and shooting at random targets, developing quite a good aim if I do say so myself ;) Those trees and bushes didn't see me coming!
We visited the blacksmith in his shop made of twigs and branches. He showed us how he melted scraps of metal into bracelets and arrowheads and we took turns trying out the airbags and stoking the fire. The man commented that I was very good and that I would make a good wife - I'd better make sure to let my next suiter know!
Finally, following Dan's lead, I climbed onto the roof of our bus, while it was moving mind you, and we were soon joined by a couple of the other staff for some bus surfing and the very best way to take in the African countryside! The boys even got some mid-air high-fives with other buses!

Final Final Ceremony

The last ceremony in Mongola Ju was a day filled with both joy and early-onset nostalgia. They had set up a volleyball net and we played a few rounds surrounded tightly by the children who would squeal anytime a rally would end. We played a million hand games and danced and sang with the students. A group of older students sang several goodbye songs in english and it was so lovely and sad that it brought tears to my eyes. They unveiled a sign commemorating the work done by Rustic Pathways and gave us not one, but two gifts. Each of the female staff got kitenges, the cloth wrapped around by the women and the guys got super tight TShirts that said Dubai on them, ha! Then we were presented with a couple gourds on strings and were told that this was the traditional "lunch box" taken on long journeys. Wonderful! We then shared boxes of donations made by the students with the heads of the school as well as a big pot of Guacamole accompanied by their rice and chicken - An African Thanksgiving :)

Country #40!

2010-08-27T14:39:00.005+05:30

Today, I write to you from Kampala, Uganda - my 40th country, which means I've finally reached the countdown to 50! I am a list-maker and a count-keeper at heart and my competitive spirit grinned upon crossing the border :). So far, I've met a very friendly pair of couchsurfers that have opened their beautiful home to me as well as helped me shape the next stage of my journey. It is so nice to be in a home especially since I was feeling a bit under the weather with a cold and a sore foot (reason soon to be revealed ;).

Kampala, besides being a capital city is nothing like Nairobi. Nairobi surprised and impressed me with it's relative calm and order. The instant that I stepped off the train (after being given ample time to gather our things as opposed to rushed out) I noticed the platform was clean and there was a conspicuous lack of touts and cab drivers vying for our attention. Luckily, Arthur had a Kenyan friend from University here that came to pick us up and we walked into the city center to check out the business district as well as take in the view from a helipad atop a beautiful conference center. At the ticket desk, Arthur's friend Kigen and one of his friends tried to persuade the stoic man to let us in for the resident's price since we had been living in Tanzania and it was half that of the foreigners ticket. The man said that we had to convince him that we had been living there, so I tried some of my best swahili - to no avail. Suddenly I asked if we could sing and Arthur and I broke into the church song that we had learned in Mongola Ju village. There, in the midst of people in business suits and chandeliers, we sang for our supper and the ticket man, cracking a smile, gave in.

Over the next few days, we got an insiders view of Nairobi and the surrounding area. We tasted the night life including the strip of bars and clubs aptly named 'Electric Avenue' and Rafikiz (Friends) where we danced to a rhythmic mix of live and recorded East African hits. We visited Kigen's development project, were mobbed by more adorable children, drove through enchanting Kenyan countryside over more of the deeply saturated rust-red roads that I had come to love in Tanzania. We spent a night in, treated to a feast by Kigen's girlfriend Rachel - seriously the best meal that we have had in Africa and one too many glasses of wine to count inducing passionate discussions about life and travel and gender roles around the world - It was a splendid evening ('til 4am)!

The next morning, after about an hour and a half of sleep, I bid a fond farewell to Arthur who opted to spend his last few days relaxing on the beaches of Zanzibar and I joined Kigen in a drive 5 hours west to attend his friend's wedding. Another African wedding! This one was a lot different and since it was being held in quite a rural setting, I was probably the first white person that many of the kids had ever seen. Ha, the wide-eyed stares were amusing and I imagined what it must be like to see someone of another race for the first time... In America, I just grew up assuming everyone was American unless I heard an accent. I would never think of addressing someone by their skin color, but here, we have people shouting "Mizungu!" even in cosmopolitan Nairobi!

That night, after a nice meal of local food, Kigen and I met some of his buddies in his home town and after drinking my very first energy drink (I'm working on an hour and a half sleep remember, plus a couple brief dozes in the car), we hit up a place called Signatures - and ROCKED it! :) We claimed an area and the group of us danced until about 6am!!! Being the only white person in the club for most of the night, I had a plethora of people interested in dancing and/or speaking with me. Kigen and a couple of his friends declared themselves my personal body guards which was sweet and even then, I managed to have a handful of hilarious interactions. One massive bouncer took my hand as I passed by and said "I wish to be your very best friend". After dancing with one fellow several times he said, "I wish you were mine... I would have given you a heroic welcome" - Ha! One younger guy 'spelled my name' on his heart by holding my hand to his chest while he flexed his pec muscle and another older guy said that he really enjoyed speaking to... people of my... community, clearly struggling to be politically correct, which I gave him props for, however amusing the comment. Racism is a strange beast... a subject that deserves it's own blog entry at some point.

Needless to say, upon waking up around 8 am in order to visit Kigen's parent's orphan project, I was a bit tired. My left foot was tender to walk on - too much dancing? Never! ;) - and my voice was wavering. The facilities for the children were amazing and I enjoyed touring the compound, but waiting until midnight to catch the bus to Kampala, it was hard to muster much energy. So many nights out (not to mention those with Arthur in Mombasa and Mtwapa) in a row were beginning to take their toll and as I said, after bidding adieu to my new friend Kigen and an over night bus into Uganda, a day off to recover was much needed!

Now, after a day or two of relaxing and exploring the city (a chaotic cluster of crowded streets, cars and trucks and speeding motorcycles causing a choking amount of pollution, a golden mosque, a peaceful cathedral and a fascinating, but somewhat disconcerting market, all bunched together amongst an impressaive amount of green on 7 rolling hills), I'll take a jaunt out to the city if Jinja (love that name), one of the 3 places that claims to be the source of the mighty Nile and then I am organizing my next big adventure - a trek into the jungle to visit the endangered silverback gorillas! I cannot wait to track them deep into the lush flora, bushwhacking our way to observe one of the few families left. Just a couple months ago, Kampala's sole UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kasubi Tombs, were burned down due to civil violence which makes me sad that I came just a little too late and reminds me why I want to see as much as possible, before it's too late!

Safari Njema (Bon Voyage)

2010-08-24T11:49:00.005+05:30

Wow. There is something so quintessential about journeying by train across the African landscape. Arthur, who has been an amazing travel companion, and I booked a compartment on the overnight train from Mombasa to Nairobi after spending 4 glorious days exploring Mombasa and relaxing on a beach north of the city in our own private cottage on the waterfront. We swam in the Ocean a couple times a day, wandered the rural villages through mud huts and forgotten pathways and even discovered an abandoned resort (an eerie shell of what was once perhaps one of the largest resorts in the area, ceilings deteriorated from mold, the pool quarter-filled with a mysterious golden liquid, spiral staircases covered in dust and broken glass and the most impressive building, built directly on a cliff above the ocean, a three bedroom house with a 270 degree view of the turquoise waters below. We bought bananas, avocado, tomatoes and a loaf of bread for about a dollar, snuck up to the master bedroom's balcony and served up a picnic with a five-star view - paradise!)

At night, after sharing a few drinks with a pair of fellow Irish travelers, I was rocked to sleep by the gentle creaking of our train car, my top bunk actually quite comfortable - like a swaying cradle. The morning suddenly began with the clanging of a bell announcing breakfast and we lifted the shade to scan for wildlife. Zebras and Gazelle were the first to be spotted :).

It feels so good to be back on the wild road. Day one of the adventure was Friday the 13th and although I am only mildly-stitious, the run of bad luck was quite obnoxious. Arthur, Dan and I had gone out dancing 'til late (highlight of the club was dancing to pop music with a Masai man decked out in full traditional dress including beaded bracelets up his arms and around his forehead :) so we pulled an all-nighter and upon arriving at the train station at 5:30am I could not find our train ticket. After a distressing period of looking for it and looking for our bus, we got everything situated and were heading north on what was supposed to be a 6hr express bus. There was no express about it. It stopped constantly, the entire journey actually took us nearly twelve hours and in the process, my shoulder bag's zipper ceased working, my flip-flop broke so I walked barefoot through Mombasa and the bus put a new hole in my backpack! What a day.

Amazingly, that night I was able to find a pair of used reef flips at a street stall for about $5 and the next day, without any fiddling, the zipper began working again! We also found some great food and a couple decent places to stay - thank goodness for Saturday the 14th :)

This summer of working for Rustic Pathways was brought to a close with a couple epic experiences. Three days of safari in the Serengeti, three days spent relaxing on the beaches of Zanzibar and two weeks of building classrooms in a tiny village near Karatu were simply Amazing! Not to mention hunting with the bushmen, participating in a local wedding and dancing at a club with a Masai warrior!

For safari (the Swahili word for journey), we packed our things onto one of the ubiquitous safari vehicles, old time landcruisers retrofitted so that the roof can raise to allow us to stand and take photos as we rumble past photogenic wildlife set against the legendary African backdrop of Acacia and Baobab trees. Even when the animals were hidden away and the landscape flattened into a broad expanse of dried grasses, it was incredibly inspiring to stand up, arms resting on the roof, camera in hand, Ancient African air whizzing around us and working it's way through my system... Searching for the actual pride rock and suddenly we would slow, shhhh, a lion, no two, no four, look at the two cubs! Truly, there is nothing like spotting these beautiful creatures in their own land. Watching them stretch, stroll, stalk and sleep - in the wild!

We slept in tents in a campground and the first night, just as I snuggled down into my sleeping bag I heard an elephant sound his trumpet not far off - SO cool! We went on game-drives twice a day for a few hours each time. One morning we awoke before the sun rose and drove to an open area to witness the day begin. A pack of spotted hyenas were already there, prowling for leftovers and our driver waved a red shawl so that they would approach us expecting meat. They were surprisingly cute! In just three days of hunting, we tracked down elephants, lions, leopards (one of which had dragged a gazelle high up into a tree for an evening feast), zebras, giraffes, ostriches, hyenas, warthogs, crocodiles, hippos, tens of thousands of gazelle, migrating herds of wildebeests, hartebeests, impalas, mongoose, jackals, waterbucks, Elands, and water buffalos! One of the highlights was visiting a hippo pool, severely receded in dry season, there must have been at least 75 hippos puzzle pieced together in a reduction of putrid sludge - approximately 4 parts waste, 4 parts rotting refuse and 2 parts leftover river-water. Hippos are apparently one of the most aggressive animals and we watched them fighting over the limited space, their massive maws emerging from the soup, stretched nearly 180 degrees, teeth bared, issuing gurgling growls and chomping down on each other. It was nice to be out of the cruiser for a time, observing the animals up close. The only animals that we wanted to see and were unable to find were cheetahs and the endangered black rhino (which I was lucky enough to spot on my next safari in the Ngorongoro Crater).

Once back to camp on our last evening, after hours sitting and standing in place, we decided to put on an impromptu Zumba session. Our guide and the other groups watched amusedly as we laughed our way through the songs. The following morning, we left camp early in order to get to the airport in time - at least a good 7 hour drive. Unfortunately, our safari vehicle had had enough and it broke down no less than four times and got a flat tire! On about our third surprise stop, we climbed out and into the middle of nowhere. As far as one could see, there were only a few speckled trees off in the distance and a nearly deserted road. Stuck in the Serengeti. I brought out catch phrase and we began passing it around in a circle. One by one, Masai began appearing on the horizon and drifting towards this strange group of wazungu (the swahili term for foreigners) passing this obnoxiously beeping plastic disc around between themselves shouting at eachother - what they must have been thinking! Soon, there were about ten adults and children standing just 5 or so feet away from our group staring at this crazy scene. Suddenly I thought, why don't we put on a show for them! We are always playing the tourist, wanting to see locals perform, why not the other way around?? I grabbed the speakers and my ipod, selected 'Shake Senora' which is an easy zumba routine and there, in the middle of the Serengeti, we shimmied and shook for a random group of Masai! It was epic.

We raced to the airport and our luck failed us once again. We narrowly missed the plane. But, our luck immediately returned when there happened to be a flight just thirty minutes later, so voila! Next thing you know, we were settling into our posh hotel rooms, canopied beds sprinkled with flowers, hot showers and balconies - fabulous! The hotel had a private beach, infinity pool facing the sunset, sports bar and fancy restaurant (that served the most delicious continental breakfast), live traditional music in the evenings, a spa (which I splurged on a special swahili scrub massage for my birthday) and a turn-down service. It was such a treat!

We spent the first day exploring Stone Town, famous for it's ornately carved wooden doors, and shopping, returning in time to take a dip in the Indian ocean, relax by the pool, watch the sunset and enjoy a candle lit dinner on the beach (I had the grilled ostrich steak :). The next day was one of pure bliss. We spent the day sailing on an African dhow to a couple different small islands including a pristine white sand bank that, by the time that we returned, had been completely submerged due to the tide. We snorkeled around coral beds through schools of shimmering fish that swirled around you like iridescent tulip petals caught in a breeze and making sure to avoid the menacing pitch black sea urchins the size of basketballs. Lunch was nothing short of manna from heaven - an all you can eat seafood selection including lobster, calamari, tuna, cod, scallops, local sauces made with tamarind and coconut and for dessert? An exotic array of fruits from the island that our guide cut open right in front of our table, one by one so that we could try them all. Sweet grapefruit, oranges, custard apples, rambutans, lady-finger bananas, red bananas, two different types of mango, passion fruit, star fruit, pineapple, sugar cane and even baobab seeds - Ahh, I'm salivating just remembering it! To wrap it all up, we were offered coffee and amarula, a sweet African liqueur and then given time to either sail on another type of boat or sunbathe. Sublime.

That night, we visited the fish market where the local fishermen BBQ their catch of the day, bake up special breads and display them in hundreds of stands set up by the waterfront. The lights and the people and the smell of BBQ make for an enchanting atmosphere. The winner of the evening was the "Zanzibar Pizza", a dough ball flattened and fried with several combinations of ingredients, my favorite being nutella and banana (the caramel mango was a close second :).

Alas, all good things come to an end and the next morning we were en route to Arusha. Yet another set of goodbyes and another set of new students arriving and just like that, another stage of the summer had begun. A whirlwind week of tasting the exotic side of Africa and my next charge was to spend two weeks living on a coffee plantation, working in a small village about 40 minutes away finishing new classrooms for the school with a group of ten students. An equally inspiring experience in an entirely different way.

I have now just arrived in Uganda and will hopefully post another 'catching up' entry soon - so many incredible experiences!

Catchin' Up

2010-08-06T01:12:00.003+05:30

Phew! Do I have some catching up go do! I can't believe that it's been more than a month since I stood on top of Mt. Kilimanjaro and watched the sun rise over Africa. This summer has flown by with such vivacity - a veritble whirlwind of different programs, hundreds of kids in and out of country, smiling children like autumn leaves jumping and dancing around you, football matches, mountains and rainforest and islands and vast arid planes, delicious foods including more fresh-off-the-tree avocados and bananas than you can count (actually, I have a running tally of bananas consumed, just to satisfy my curiosity :).

After Kili, I spent two weeks in the village of Poli, about 45 minutes outside of Arusha. It's a small village of approximately 2,200 people spead throughout banana groves with giant avocado trees and a few coffee bushes mixed in here and there. Most of the houses are hidden amongst the banana trees and kids would materialize, seemingly right out of said trees, to peer questioningly at the odd group of "wazungu", the swahili term for foreigners, traipsing by or to offer a cheery "Jambo!" and a wave. Often the kids would be drawn like magnets from their homes and before long we would have ten to twenty of them tagging along, listening intently to our conversations, asking and repeating our names over and over again and holding our hands. Children are just so lovable!

This was a one week program designed to connect well with either Climbing Kilimanjaro or Safari so the students can also take part in some community service and get a glimpse into Tanzanian life. Every morning, we drove from the base house to the village, the latter part up steep and deeply rutted dirt roads that turned into slip and slides any time that it rained. On more than one occasion we would have to pile out and push the bus or make the muddy trek up on foot.

We have worked closely with the directors of the school and the chairman of the village to assess the projects that will most benefit the community in the time that we have and our students have already finished and patched the veranda for the school so that the kids and teachers can pass easily from class to class when it rains, built a protective fence around the water pump, finished painting the kitchen that was built last year, stabilized and rendered walls around the school and have dug the foundation for an office building to house the village delegation.
It's a lot of hard work, mixing cement, carrying buckets of water and wheelbarrows of sand and rocks, but when the village kids pitch in, it makes everything seem easier and our students quickly gain an appreciation for this rustic way of life.

Each Saturday we joined the local football club in a rowdy match, chasing the ball up and down the uneven and pitted field, somewhat more reminiscent of of pinball machine than the smooth passing of the World Cup teams that we watched nearly every evening. High fives and tid bits of swahili were exchanged, friends and memories were made.

The first week, I had a group comprised entirely of girls and at some point, it was discovered that I had taught Zumba. Next thing you know, they all woke up early for an introductory Zumba lesson with me on the front lawn! The next week, we had a couple boys that joined in, one of whom reluctantly tried a step or two before getting into his own work out :). It was fun leading a 'class' again and getting in a little extra excersize besides the service work and occasional morning jog. The students also get to spend an afternoon with one of the families cooking traditional food, which is one of the highlights of the week. They are invited into Poli homes, stir locally grown beans and corn with utensils carved from the local trees and eat 3 different dishes out of these unique, beautiful little bowls with handles. I even commissioned one from the lady that teaches the students how to weave baskets out of banana tree skin (I got one of those as well! :).

Throughout my time working with Rustic Pathways, I cannot help but be a wee bit envious of these teens. I have been so blessed myself, with everything that I have been able to do and see, but just imagine if I had been able to begin my exploration of the world when I was sixteen! It is so nice to work with kids that really recognize the opportunities that they are being given and are in awe of the experience and likewise, it is equally distressing to meet kids that are already jaded at such a young age with a been-there-done-that, 'when do I get to go to my summer house in the Hamptons' mentality.

Speaking of the kids though, every summer I learn how far out of the teen loop that I've become. I like to think that I stay up on popular terms and I'm aware of current websites/youtube videos/pop culture (except when it comes to hollywood), but each year I am proved sadly out of date. Did you know that "wheeling" meant making-out or that "mobbin" meant going really fast? "Mons" means really big (as in short for monstrous), "witchita" is used for give me as in "witchta the eggs please" and words like jank, and bomb are the new over-used slang. Ha, what an entertaining education I get as each group exchanges the latest lingo from their respective regions.

Highlights from my three seperate Safaris, Zanzibar Paradise and my last two weeks of community service in a village up north soon to come!

Snows of Kilimanjaro

2010-06-25T23:39:00.005+05:30

The bookcase in our staffroom has a nice little collection, including several Africa and Tanzania specific additions. Although I brought a book with me, I set that aside for when I start traveling on my own and instead picked up 'The Snows of Kilimanjaro' by Ernest Hemingway. What better inspiration to absorb before setting out on my own journey up the legendary mountain? Unfortunately, the story was, as far as I could tell because I only managed to get about half way through it, only set in Africa, somewhere near the mountain and had nothing else to do with it. The main characters were annoying and the timeline jumped arbitrarily between past and present... I hear the man dies in the end. I still plan on finishing it at some point despite having started another book, but as much as the book itself was a disappointment, Mount Kilimanjaro, the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, was anything but.

Twenty students arrived late Wednesday night and after a quick briefing, tried to get some sleep before an early start the next day. My fellow Rustic guide, Taylor, one of our two Kili guides, Everest and I checked the gear of each of our 4 climbers, 3 girls and a boy. Just our luck, the only student to have lost luggage, was one of our Kili girls so we had to scramble to get enough gear together for her to at least begin the hike. I didn't tell her that it took six days to recover mine!

A two and a half hour drive brought us to the base of our trek and after some time getting permits arranged, we dove into the rainforest. Throughout the trek, we traverse 4 different climate zones which is one of the most impressive parts of the hike. The trail is well developed in the beginning and set up for day hikers as well. Lush green vines, tree trunks covered in moss and thin fluttering leaves that gave them the appearance of giant bird necks craning to see above the canopy. The dirt was a deep purple-red and roots criss-crossing the trail were the vericose veins of this vibrant scene.

We arrived at the first camp after about 5 hours of hiking. Since the kids were a bit jet-lagged it was a tiring walk and we were all looking forward to settling in to our cute little A-frame huts for a good nights sleep - after of course, a delicious feast cooked by our wonderful Kili cook Samson. A thick mist slid in during the night and greeted us at our doorstep. Breakfast was yet another feast. Tea, hot cocoa or coffee, Porridge, toast with jam, honey, peanutbutter, butter, scrambled eggs, fresh fruit and even a little meat! Nice and full for the next 6 hour hike.

This time, it only took us about half an hour to climb above the damp, rainforest and enter the 'heather and moorland' region. Quite suddenly we found ourselves on a much drier, sage and heather lined path with small bunches of wild flowers sprinkled about. Everything opened up as we left the green behind and made our way into an area reminiscent of the American southwest. We were given delicious pack lunches each day augmented by hot soup - yummm soup! Night two was spent at Horombo camp. The six of us enjoying a rowdy game of catchphrase until we were joined by a breakdancing Japanese guy who seemed to savor the opportunity to practice his english. Ahh catchphrase never fails to bring people together :).

Day three was a day of aclimization so we slept in and took an easy hour and a half stroll up to a place called Zebra Rocks. Heavy clouds rolled across the land again and after relaxing and playing on the boulders for a while we returned to camp, ate, cuddled up in our bags and took turns making up the most entertaining story about Tina and Terry, a brother and sister who had lost their parents and got mixed up with a pirate alien and ate magical foods (namely a grilled cheese sandwich and 'black cow' shake that the girls had been craving), that transported them through a mysterious vortex and I musn't forget their bumbling Uncle Taylor that became a hero anytime it was Taylor's turn :).

Day four, the mists turned to rain and after water-proofing ourselves and our gear we set off for the final camp. This time, we walked through an expanse of dirt and rock, very little vegetation and a couple hours in were guarded on either side by Uhuru peak (the highest, which we would be climbing) and Mwenzi peak (striking a majestic sillouhette, a very technical climb which few attempt). Staring into the white void ahead, we would occasionally see a dark pinpoint materialize. Slowing gaining size as we approached eachother the pinpoint would take form, two moving legs, a torso enlarged by a backpack, a head and always a massive bundle perched precariously atop. The porters (of which our group alone had 12, two per person!), amazed me not only with their stamina, but also with their finely tuned balancing act, carrying woven baskets, plastic jugs and huge duffles on top of their heads, with such ease that they almost seemed to forget about the load all together!

The sun finally stepped in and scared away the clouds so that we could finally see our goal. Once at Kibo hut, the students rested and I set off for some bouldering to take in the sunset. I am grateful that as of yet, I have not been much affected by high altitude so despite breathing being a little more difficult I felt wonderful. Being in such beautiful places, the feeling of freedom rendered by the scenery and the daily hiking routine is just so uplifting! I felt so content... and lucky! One of our students however was feeling the pressure and struggled to sleep with an intense headache. After an early dinner, we all tried to force ourselves to sleep around 7pm, quite the challenge for me, and in the end I think I got about an hour's worth before the 11pm wakeup call.

This was the moment! We pulled on as many layers as we could, had a small breakfast of tea and cookies and gathered outside the hut to begin our ascent. We were very fortunate to have a clear sky, the stars lent their sparkles for something to climb towards and "pole pole" or "slowly slowly" we inched up the steep incline. The night before, the climbers had been faced with rain the entire way up, which made the slopes very slick and they even had snowfall at the top! Many more were thwarted by the weather so despite the difficulty, it could have been much worse.

About an hour and a half into the hike, the student who had been most affected by the altitude could not continue and had to return to camp. That left us with 5 to forge onward. Step by step, sometimes excruciateingly slow, we climbed. Our water bottles froze so we had extras wrapped in clothing inside our packs, but my fingertips froze as well inspite of the three pairs of gloves. I had brought a set of toe warmers so my feet, in my little ol' running shoes and an excellent pair of hiking socks stayed warm until just about an hour from the summit. My lips actually froze and when trying to issue words of encouragement, I ended up sounding like my entire mouth had been shot full of novicane. I am SO very proud of the girls! They battled their way up that mountain, little by little, passing other groups and we were rewarded with a brilliant redish-orange band across the horizon heralding the rising of the sun that poked its first few rays above just as we were reaching Uhuru... Freedom (in swahili)!

Exhausted, but happy, we rested on the rocks, took a few obligatory photos and began the descent. The girls had put every last drop of energy into the climb so coming down was slow and tedious. I stayed behind with the last student, a very cool, down to earth and tough girl who had to call on that mysterious energy reserve that I became all too familiar with in my descent from Huyana Potosi. The intense sun did not help and once we finally arrived back at the hut, everyone had collapsed in their beds uninterested in food, only sleep. Unfortunately, we could not afford that luxury. By the time I arrived, the others had rested some, but it was time to pack up, eat a quick lunch and hike back to the second camp, both to sleep at a lower altitude and to be closer to the base for the following day. I can't say that there were too many smiles after reaching the summit that day. Drained and groggy (I actually felt surprisingly well, boosted by the memory of the adventure) the students, Taylor and I retraced our steps to the second camp for a total of about 15 straight hours of hiking. Phew! After yet another delicious meal (at this point, the students were all souped out, but I don't think that could ever happen to me! :), this was one night that I had no problem falling asleep early!

I awoke very early in the morning to a massive bottom lip. A combination of the cold and the sun had severely damaged my poor lip and it felt as if it was about to pop - a free gift from the mountain, Kilimanjaro colligen. It took several hours for the swelling to subside, but it was still very dry, tender and tingly. Our final day of hiking down went quickly and after the open moorland and the rainforest slid by, we found ourselves passing under the gate, conquerors of Kili, and salivating over a hot shower.

Three of my climbers flew home the next day, their African adventure complete. One is staying another week to work in one of the villages, luckily the same program that I am now working on and yet another batch of students have arrived. For the next two weeks, I'll be doing development work in a small village, set in the midst of banana and avocado trees, outside Arusha called Poli. I have all girls this week and they seem like a great bunch already. Internet is still frustratingly limited so I've prewritten this and will cross my fingers that it sends at one point!

For more photos, check out my facebook album - Jambo from Africa!

Lost and Found

2010-06-15T17:23:00.004+05:30

As many of you may have read, as excited as I was to finally step onto the continent of Africa and add Tanzania as my 38th country, my backpack was apparently a little nervous and it took an extra SIX days to arrive. I'll be honest. I don't usually follow the sage advice of packing an extra change of clothing and my bathroom supplies such as toothbrush and paste. For no other reason than I desire to carry on as little as possible and a (foolish) faith that this day in age, luggage is rarely lost and if so, it is recovered within 24hrs. Ha!

What a mess it was trying to figure out where it was! After it was not automatically delivered the next day, I began my hunt and found it to be extremely difficult from Africa. Luckily, we have wifi here at the base so that I could search online, but calling was impossible. I am extremely fortunate to have the more wondeful parents who sprung into action for me and made numerous calls from the states in order to get some answers. Somehow, they had record of the bag being checked in at JFK, but never recorded it landing in either Amsterdam or Kilimanjaro, believed it was "forwarded on" to my final destination and that it was "in transit" but could not confirm... so frustrating.

Long story short, I spent the first week of my time in Africa in this nice little travel dress, borrowing clothes one day when it was too cold, as well as toothpaste and shower supplies etc. I was so grateful that by sheer coincidence I had packed my tooth and hair brush, a pair of yoga pants and a jacket. With my previous entry being about all of these fabulous things to pack - I learned first-hand, how few things you actually need to get by!

I have so many stories to tell, but the internet has been incredibly slow and unreliable, so I will end this entry now with a big hug for all my friends out there and a promise to write more details when I return from... Mt. Kilimanjaro!! I am leaving tomorrow to guide 4 students to the summit of Africa's tallest mountain and the tallest free-standing mountain in the world!!!

In My Pack

2010-05-18T02:52:00.012+05:30

It is FINALLY that time again! After a record length of stay in the States, I am gathering up my backpack and travel gear with my sights set on the new and exciting destination of Tanzania, Africa! This last week had me hustling about, anxiously crossing things off my ToDo list and fitting in as much as possible. I've taught my last dance class (although I am hoping to find a way to keep dancing without looking too odd spinning and hopping around by myself - I think the kids are going to have to learn some of my songs this summer ;), I've attended my last cake decorating class (yes, getting in a little more domesticity before I head out into the wilds :), fit in a couple dental appointments, a girls-day-out replete with pedicures, one last trip to OR (thanks again to Dan and Nikki for picking me up!), one more 13.25 mile run and wrapped up several little projects that I've been working on. Phew! It's been busy, but productive and I'm SO ready for this next adventure!

Quite often, I get asked about the travel items that I can't leave home without. I've lived out of a backpack or suitcase more in the past 6 years than I have out of a closet (which is why I still get such pleasure from hanging my clothes up :). With that, I have definitely refined my packing skills and have a list of must-haves. My recommendations for others usually depend on the type of trip, whether long (more than 4weeks) or short, domestic or abroad and how much you will be moving/traveling from a base. Here is a general breakdown from my experience.

Assuming you are planning a backpacking trip abroad, the first things I would do are:

Call your bank and let them know where you will be traveling and for how long so that they aren't surprised and incoveniently put a hold on your credit and/or debit cards.
Bring crisp US Dollars that are in the best of condition. I found places, especially in S. America were extremely picky about accepting used bills and one even brought out a magnifying glass to show me that there was indeed a microscopic rip!
Check in advance how much entry visas will be, if there is a difference by land or by air and if there is an airport exit fee.
I usually like to bring at least a little local currency with me. It usually takes about a week to order the bills from your bank. This will help you avoid the higher exchange rates at airports, you don't have to search for an ATM right away and allows you to hop right in a cab or buy a snack when you arrive.
Print copies of your passport, drivers license and any vaccination records that may be required to enter the country. Also have a couple extra passport sized photos handy for entry visas.

Certain things are must-haves for any trip:

Music - My ipod with playlists and podcasts is something I would really hate to be without
Journal - I have kept one since I began college and it has proved indispensible in not only recording my day to day thoughts, details of my adventures but also extremely cathartic when I need to work through something - especially when traveling alone. I also keep a tiny notebook with me (one that will fit in a pocket or camera case etc so that it is always with me), a new one for each trip, where I jot down everything that I learn during the day. New words when I am learning a new language or quote that I want to remember, important phone numbers and addresses, doodles, random ideas etc and they become a supplement to my official journal.
Water bottle - I've mentioned this before, but I have been a Nalgene fan for many many years, have always had one by my side and this year, I'm making the switch to a platypus foldable bottle. Either way, it has to be something BPA free and ultra-durable.
Camera - My Nikon D5000 is fantastic and I am looking forward to capturing some amazing wildlife in Africa!
External Harddrive - I only use one memory card (although a have another one or two for backup) and routinely transfer the pics from my card to the drive.
Reading Material - Essential for long bus rides and flights.
Ziploc Bags - ALWAYS have some with you. I can't say how many times that I've needed a plastic bag to protect something, hold broken pieces, contain something wet, pick up something dirty or even when you're sick... enough said ;)

Some of my favorite things for long-term travel:

A good headlamp and pocket light - One of my favorite toys is my Petzl Zipka Plus Headlamp which has a retractable cord in lieu of the headband so it can be worn around your wrist or water bottle or tent flap etc. I also have a tiny led light (about 3 inches long, 1 inch wide and a quarter inch thick), that I always keep with me. It comes in handy at night searching for something you dropped or when the power goes out unexpectedly - more often you would think!
A first aid kit - Stock with all the basics as well as traveler's diarrhea meds. I have been pretty lucky so far (knock on wood) in not having to use these myself but have given some to friends that had severe attacks and I could swear their internal organs had been liquified!
Flip flops - A durable pair that is easy to clean and has good tread so you aren't slipping on wet roads. I highly recommend Havaianas - they offer many different styles, but they also last forever and I've definitely put them to the test!
A quick dry towel - Absolutely necessary when you want to shower before a long journey, but the last thing you want to do is pack away something wet! Trust me!
Febreze - Speaking of smelly backpacks, a little travel size bottle of febreze works wonders for not only road-weary clothing, but also musty rooms, ancient beds, trusty hikers/runners and more! I also bring along a Tide-to-go stain remover pen because I am not often in a place where I can wash things right away.
Stickers - Personally, I am adamantly against giving children money when I travel. Unless they are actually providing a desired service (not offering to shine my flipflops), I do not like the induction of children into the world of begging and have seen too many beautiful, intelligent children used by greedy, selfish adults. That being said, I adore making friends with random children and listening to their stories. If I take their photo, then I try to find a one-hour print shop to make them a copy, which for them is often more valuable than any spare change you may have and if not, then I always carry stickers with me to share with those kids that I have connected with. Plus they are small and easy to carry!

Additional goodies that I like to travel with:

Passport cover - To protect it from damage, but also to keep my country of origin from being instantly recognized.
Fake/old debit cards - This one is not one that I use, but think it is a great idea nevertheless. I have read that in case you are being mugged (again, knock on wood, I have not been), you can carry expired cards in your wallet and handing them over apeases the thief.
A water purifier - Traveling around India I was forced to purchase far too many bottles of water and felt terrible about the ammount of plastic I was adding to their already fragile environment. Along came a recommendation from a friend for the Steripen, a device that uses UV light to purify drinking water and I love it! It takes 1-2 minutes and leaves no aftertaste like tablets or iodine - genius.
A shawl/sarong - I have come to carry one with me since India because they just come in so handy! You can use it for a wrap or scarf when you are cold, a towel if you've lost your quick-dry, a clean surface cover, a pouch to carry things in, bunch it up and use it for a pillow, even as an emergency sling... so many uses!
Netbook - Now, this is a new addition to my travel arsenal. They began popping up everywhere on the S. American circuit and where wifi was fairly common in hostels and cafes and often free, I would be stuck to a pc paying per hour. It has also been a great way to transfer photos from my camera to my hard drive. I highly recommend the Toshiba NB205 that has an incredible battery life and a comfortable keyboard. With these electronic gadgets however, you have to remember to bring adaptors for each region that you will be traveling to (or better yet, a universal adaptor set). I also have an extra power source for my ipod that runs off of rechargable batteries and have been considering investing in a Solio, a solar powered charging device.
A ball - An odd addition, I've just found it's nice to have when I'm bored, waiting for transport or run into a group of kids, so I bring a little bouncy handball along.
Postcards of your hometown - They make good thank you cards and kids in small villages are facinated by the big buildings. I also bring a couple pictures of my family and friends for myself as well as sharing stories.
Catchphrase - This has been one of my favorite games for nearly a decade and the newer electronic version is small and easy to carry. Again, this is not at all a necessity, but when I am working with teens, or have a group of fellow travelers gathered, this game has never failed to induce fits of laughter (as long as they speak english)!
A Treat - Last, but most definitely not least, I have found that I like to bring a couple favorite snack from home for those days when I have just had one too many potatoes or plates of rice. One of my favorite parts of travel is trying out the various world cuisines. However, when I am working and limited to what is being provided, but also when I have been on the road for weeks/months and just yearn for a taste of home, I pull out my rainy-day stash and savor the flavor of a little peanutbutter or M&Ms or jerky or trailmix etc. This really should go under the must-haves for any trip :)

So that's it! My room has had a mountainous topography lately with all of my little piles spread around, but today is the day for cleaning and packing everything up! Tomorrow I will head into Seattle for a red-eye flight to NYC where I have a nights layover then... Off into the wild unknown!

This... is bliss

2010-04-30T12:26:00.007+05:30

A contented exhaustion takes over and I collapse spread eagle into the grass. My fingers comb through the cool, freshly trimmed blades and they retaliate by tickling behind my ears. The sun aerates the clouds, stabbing it's way through here and there, spotlighting the ground and twinkling diamonds through my eyelashes. My whole body, still tingling with the adrenaline of a good long run, gives in to gravity, sinks into the lush green blanket, relishing being so close to the earth and guarded by Tulip sentinels. A crisp breeze skates up my exposed skin, licks my lips and before it can escape, my nose shaves off a slice for my lungs to savor. Birds practice their springtime songs, chimes on my porch accompany them and my soul... dances.

This... is bliss.

happy bEARTHday!

2010-04-19T07:44:00.016+05:30

What are you doing to celebrate Earth Day this year? Planting some flowers? A tree? Taking a walk with your parents and/or your children? Hanging a bird-feeder? Bringing reusable bags to the grocery store? Target has several deals in honor of Earth Week - check 'em out! http://tinyurl.com/targetdeals

Spring certainly is the season of change and this year it seems more than ever. I have witnessed America's beautiful Pacific Northwest absolutely explode with color! More shades of green than most would imagine possible blanket the hillsides and every hue of blossom and bloom glow contentedly in the soul-warming sunshine! My runs continue. I've got a goal this month of at least 25 miles a week and I make it a point to cross the street every time there is a particularly bright bunch or fragrant tree along that side. It's a good thing too, because while I have a penchant for the routine stretch of my legs, I seem to also have the equal and opposite penchant for junk food and the Annual Skagit Valley Tulip Festival and Street Fair brought in the best kettle corn, fresh cut curly fries, turkey legs, chicken satay, roasted almonds, and all sorts of sauces to try and goodies to taste! Tens of thousands of people came from all over (even hundreds of international visitors for the World Tulip Summit) to tip-toe through the tulip fields, buy bulbs and peruse the hundreds of art and craft stalls, not to mention give their cameras a workout! As y'all know, I can't resist such an opportunity and I brought my own out on a couple jaunts. I snapped several keepers, but my favorites came from the ripening reds that graced my bedroom windowsill. I just loved waking up to these each morning. If we were lucky enough to have a sunny day, they would glimmer with light and if not, they brought a cheering color to contrast the gray. As lovely as they were, it wasn't until they began to wilt that I believe their true beauty was revealed. Unlike wine and cheese, flowers are not usually considered to get better with age, but in this case, I beg to differ. The petals curled like ribbon on a gift and opened wide to reveal their delicate treasures within. The red intensified and shifted to deep burgundies, rouges, even purples and indigos... There was such elegance in their dusk, truly I was in awe. I loved these photos so much, that I entered them in the local newspaper's tulip photography contest. If you have a spare moment and like them as well, it would be great if you could give them your vote! (starting May 1st)
http://tinyurl.com/JWtulip1
http://tinyurl.com/JWtulip2
http://tinyurl.com/JWtulip3

Spring has also brought about many less than happy changes. I want to take this moment to extend my thoughts and heartfelt wishes to the victims of all the Earth's tantrums. Chile, Haiti, Peru, Brazil, Tibet, Iceland... and those are only the high-profile events. Earthquakes, Floods, Landslides... people and animals suffering. I am SO SO lucky to be where I am right now, to have the opportunities that I do and I admire all those who are currently dedicated to making a difference in this world.

Another round of well-wishes go out to my friend Kate and Nikki who have been doing some spring cleaning of their own. Both have had recent emergency surgery and especially Kate, this was definitely an unexpected birthday gift! I wish I could have seen you this weekend, but I'm sending big hugs to both of you (and one for Adam, Happy Birthday to you too!) from up north and look forward to seeing you in a couple weeks!

I'll end this entry with another of my recent fun finds. I like this product for both it's earth friendly construction, use of bamboo which is one of the most renewable natural resources, and energy saving features, but also it's simple and elegant design. http://tinyurl.com/bambootop

Earth Hour 2010

2010-03-26T23:48:00.004+05:30

Don't forget! This Saturday, the 27th of March at 8:30pm (local time), is International Earth Hour. Millions of people in more than 80 countries will be participating by turning off their lights for one hour as a call for action on global climate change. Even the Eiffel Tower, the Empire State Building, the Great Pyramids of Giza and Chicago's iconic skyline are planning to go dark for the cause. This article (http://ow.ly/1qNaP) has some suggestions on how to spend your hour of darkness... anybody have their own ideas??

Green

2010-03-26T07:55:00.009+05:30

A little late for St. Patrick's Day and not at all reminiscent of corned beef and cabbage, nevertheless, I thought I'd start off showcasing some of my recent favorite finds with a couple green goodies. I've been collecting cutting edge products that have sparked my imagination and that make me excited about the future and I'm looking forward to sharing them with you over the next few posts!

First, I am thrilled to present my most recent purchase, a water bottle that can roll up and fit in your pocket! Now, I am a die-hard Nalgene fan and have carried one with me wherever I go since college, so this is big :). There are two earth-conscious companies that deserve mention here, although I ultimately went with the former because they offer a 1L size. Platypus actually has an entire line of products that are made of an incredibly durable triple-layer laminate and polyethylene lining (BPA free) that won't retain flavors or taste like plastic. They even have a wine preservation pouch! When not in use, it takes up very little space, which is key when all I've got is my backpack! Alternatively, Vapur has a colorful assortment and a great message. Did you know that it takes 17 million barrels of oil each year to make bottles for water just for the U.S. market?? Imagine the world over! Check out their website for more information: http://vapur.us/world-water-crisis.php - Invest in a water bottle my friends and take advantage of the beautifully clean tap water that we are privileged to have in this country :).

Another cool product on my wish list is this set of foldable, self-powered, eco-friendly speakers. Again, saving space is key and they require no batteries to boot! You can slip them right inside your laptop bag and easily carry them to any function. Made from recycled material, they have several designs to choose from, a blank set to let your creativity run wild or you can even send them your own custom design! Check out their new Rock-it device that turns anything (cereal box, paper cup, plastic bowl, even your refrigerator!) into a speaker: http://www.origaudio.com/ - awesome!

I'll leave you with this insightful film short about the fictional life of a plastic bag. It's 18 min long and it's a bit slow, so I don't blame you if you break it into parts, but the bag's last words really made the video for me. I never thought I would feel such emotion for, well, a plastic bag! :)

I'm back!

2010-03-11T05:51:00.016+05:30

I'm back! It always seems that when I have the most free time, I have the least motivation to publish. The truth is, I've started a draft several times online and even more times in my head. Does anyone else find themselves thinking their blog throughout the day? When I'm jogging, everything from the bright spring colors and fellow joggers to the various scents that I consume along the way spur first paragraphs. Meals that I cook, friends that I hear from, magazines and the plethora of videos and news articles that I catch online spark themes and even the evening conversations with my parents can be poetic.

And yet... here I am, more than 2 months later! In the mean time, January brought the battery charging visit by my dearest Alisa. One week of relaxation, exploration and wandering. Seven days of cheek splitting smiles, tummy clenching laughter and one photo-shoot after another (I swear we must have set a record!) That is not to mention our riotous and racy romp north of the border! With a 'blue' theme (yes, we have themes :) we spent the first day stopping in nearly every shop along the road to the coast. Thanks to Alisa's skillful internet research we had a fantastic room with a balcony overlooking the sea and the city, just blocks from the water in a chic area of Vancouver. Our first thought after getting our bearings, was that we hadn't given ourselves nearly enough time to try all of the sumptuous offerings! One by one, we were bombarded by the aromas from the cookie shop, the shawarma shop, the chocolate cafe, the pizzaria, and the cupcake store! How to decide?? (hint: we didn't ;)

Next up, a stroll along the waterfront including a hilarious set of statues (photos taken), skeletal tree silhouettes (photos taken), the famous symbol of Vancouver and subsequently the 2010 Winter Olympics, Inukshuk (photos taken) and even a giant set of engagement rings in the park (photos AND a video of Alisa's version of "Single Ladies" taken :). All that and we were left with no choice but to stop in a couple of our favorite shops on the way back to the hotel... to stimulate the poor Canadian economy of course... and perhaps a little sugar for our dancin' feet!

Playing dress-up is something that Alisa and I never left behind in our childhoods (one could make the argument that we've just extended our childhood - another reason we get along so well ;). In fact, dressing up has become a veritable requirement of any reunion. Thus, Vancouverites witnessed these two American girls dressed head to toe in blue (and a little black and silver thrown in the mix), hit the town. We tracked down a super-secret, ultra-posh restaurant down town, along the way meeting a magician that mysteriously made ash appear on my very own closed hand! How could we not fall in love with this place!

Our last day was spent exploring more of Vancouver, especially the Olympic Venues. Vancouver is such a lovely city! Everybody that we met was, as cliché as it sounds, so polite and helpful. They were smartly dressed and friendly and truly seemed happy. If it wasn't as rainy as Washington, I could see myself spending some serious time there! Alas, all good things must come to an end and Alisa must return to her family. Skype video chats just weren't enough for her adorable little boy :). I always miss her, but feel so proud of us for making these reunions happen every year. Love ya Lis!

The day she left was the day I had told myself that I needed to start finding my new path - a fairly ambiguous goal. I'll save the trials and tribulations of this quest for later entries, but it has definitely been a challenge to nail anything down. Do I continue traveling? There are still so many places that I have yet to see and languages to learn and people to meet and foods to taste... Do I focus on finding a permanent job abroad? Do I commit to a job in the States for a time? Finally, get a place of my own that I can decorate and feel, as foreign a concept as it is, at home? And then there is the matter of defining my true north. What are my most poignant passions? When am I the most satisfied and what are my talents? ...so many questions.

So! As I continue my journey, I've picked up a new side job. I have plenty of time these days to work on getting back in physical shape so I have been running consistently (met my goal of a half-marathon in Feb :), using Wii Fit for yoga and strength training and I've found a dance class that I absolutely love! About a month into attending classes, the instructor, whom I admire a great deal - this girl can move! - asked if I had ever considered teaching. Absolutely made my day! I took some time to mull it over and next thing you know, I was choreographing 14 songs including hiphop, salsa, reggaeton, bachata, bollywood and I've even thrown in a Greek song for the fun of it. I had my first class on the first of March and I am simply loving it! I get a wonderful workout AND I get to share my music and moves with a group of lovely ladies!

I'll try to stay more current from now on. I've got a blog coming up with some awesome products that I've come across and also... drumroll please... a possible international trip coming up!! Stay tuned ;)

Imminent Arrival

2010-01-03T13:01:00.006+05:30

I've just returned from one of the most relaxing and enjoyable New Year in-ringing with some of my closest friends. The menu included such delectable foods as bacon-wrapped chicken bites, authentic guacamole, deluxe chili, vanilla strawberry torte, secret recipe Italian cheeseball and "pita fritas" as well as the famous Mohr-tinis. The activities ranged from deep, philosophical conversations, book swapping, and watching movies to Wii competitions (especially a raucous game of Super Mario Bros where at 3am, bouncing on eachothers heads was the best part), intense games of handball (okay, I'll be honest, I haven't played in ages and it showed, but it was a blast nonetheless) and circuit training.
At midnight I got 3 cheek-kisses which in my book is 3 half kisses or one and a half total, so I fared pretty well :) and most importantly, I felt at home for a change so here's one last plural thank you - you know who you are!

And best of all, the fun is not yet over! I am expecting a much anticipated arrival early Monday morning. My dearest of dears, Alisa, will be joining me for a week of relaxation, catching up, wandering, site seeing, photo snapping, dressing up, dancing, cooking, baking, crafting, laughing, in all 'round goofballing! What a wonderful year 2010 has already been! See you in approximately 24hrs Lis!

A Few Of My Favorite Things

2009-12-28T08:36:00.008+05:30

Flames a'flickering in cozy fireplaces
and driving a car to all sorts of places.
Sausages and cheeses and home cooked foods
with spiked hot cocoa adding cheer to the mood.
Getting back out in nature and consistently running.
These are a few of my favorite things!

Letterboxing in wild crannies and nooks
and my night stand chock full of riveting books.
The electric blanket pre-heating my bed on cold nights
and seeing old friends in person and skype.
A fully stocked kitchen for experimenting.
These are a few of my favorite things!

Each time I return to the States, I relish the things that are my sole continuity at this point in life. Some small and some not, coming from someone who thrives in ever-shifting environments, adapts and learns so much from change, I've also learned that balance is a necessity. My friends and family, of course, are the biggest connection to this country and the only reason that I can still genuinely call it home. Whether they know it or not, they provide the emotional and spiritual support that is necessary to wander as far and wide and prolonged as I do. Without that base, I would be lost.

To those of you reading, I owe the happiness in my life to you. Thank you for the mail, the email/comments, the skype chats and phone calls. I am so lucky to have seen some of you in Florida, Oregon, Utah and Washington this year. I am so lucky to have met more of you in South America and heard from those around the world as well. I can only hope that 2010 brings more joyful reunions (can't wait to see Adam, Kate, Alina, Dan, Nikki, Dave, Lauren, Steve and Jeremy over New Years!), good health and fortune for everyone.

As for my plans for this upcoming new year (I would not have to worry about a plan if I just had a silver farthing for every time someone asked me this question ;), the only thing I can say is that I have some serious soul-searching to do. I plan on enjoying the previously mentioned 'favorite things', driving a car, cooking and savoring home-foods, a running routine, a hair-dryer, my favorite hoody that I never bring abroad, a change of shoes, catching up with friends, letterboxing, reading and watching the movies that I've missed... but I've also got a list that is slowly being compiled of projects that will be attended to and future career ideas that will be researched. 2010 is yet a tabula rasa... anything is possible! Suggestions?? :)

PS: Some of you know that I just returned from a months stay in Florida. My lovely friend Dawn, opened her home and life to me for which I will be eternally grateful. We worked together along with her daughter, my newest friend Carly, for Nintendo, promoting the Wii and DSi and had a blast! I got to avoid the frigid Northwest a little longer, basking in the sunshine state weather, playing catch, hitting the batting cages (it's been ages!), painting pottery, chatting over wine and Dawn's fabulous cooking, all while playing games every day... for work! Plus, I got to hop down to Orlando for a couple days to see my friend Heather, meet her sweet fiancé and visit Disney World for the first time! What a wonderful month it was!

Illegal Immigrant

2009-11-04T04:17:00.003+05:30

Phew! Although it is true, it feels good to be back in Peru, it has not been the smoothest of trips!
I left Vilcabamba, dragging my toes after a splendid stay. Three wonderful days were spent hiking and biking the surrounding hills with my new friend Paul and I cannot speak highly enough of the hostal!

The self proclaimed "backpackers resort" was exactly that. Although, they hesitate to use the term resort because of certain expectations that come with that label, for all intents and purposes, it was the nicest place that I have stayed since the actual resort with my parents in Bali. A nice 2k walk from town, (even if it is 11pm and you are walking with your now 50lb pack because there are no taxis at this time of night), the place is gorgeous! A lovely view of little Vilcabamba from the dining area, a menu featuring German specialties that is reason enough to visit, a giant outdoor chess set, bar with billiards, darts and pingpong, a lagoon style pool, lofted dorm rooms with cobbled hot showers and a free gormet breakfast buffet... All of this for an unbelievable $10?? I immediately booked myself another night! (For more info: Izhcayluma.com)

Mornings started with a dip in the pool, followed by a fresh and filling breakfast taking in the view. Afternoons were spent enjoying the scenery (maybe getting lost just once high above town during a 5 hour ridge trek?) and the evenings were spent relaxing, enjoying the gulasch and spaetzle and pineapple curry and exotic fruit juices, the bar and of course Halloween night with a random mix of travelers! I was so glad to have the company of Paul while our schedules permitted, but as is always the case, our time came to an end and he had to leave west, while I spent one more day in Vilcabamba and left south into Peru the next night.

The trip was actually a lot smoother than it should have been. I took a bus to Loja and then boarded another an hour later for Piura in Peru. The next thing I know, around 7am, I find myself in Piura. Does anyone else notice what I missed? I cant rightly be in Peru without having stopped at the border to get a visa stamped in my passport, but that is exactly the situation I was in. I was suddenly illegally in the country and the border was 2 1/2 hours away! I was quite surprised that they has never told me to get out at the border crossing, that I had slept right through it and that the security for either side had not checked the bus. I argued with the bus company saying it was their responsibility to carry everyone into the country legally and that if it is an overnight bus that they should make sure people are awake. Eventually they granted me passage back to the border for free, but the next bus didnt leave for 2 hours. (I tried to go to the consulate in the mean time, but just my luck its some kind of holiday and it was closed). So, after arriving on an overnight bus around 7am, I had to retreat all the way back, get my stamps, hassle the next bus driver to let me on without paying and finally return to Piura around 4:30pm! An unfortunte waste of a day, but such is life on the road. Now at least, Ive had time to upload a blog entry and try some north Peruvian street food :)

I am of course sadly behind in my Ecuadorian updates. I had a remarkable time in the seemingly small country, jam-packed with noteable places to see and things to do. I promise to catch up soon. For now, my last week will be spent winding my way down to Lima for my flight next Tuesday night!!!

Colombia - The Highlights

2009-10-18T03:02:00.008+05:30

Once again, I hate to summarize the last few weeks of travel, especially an entire country, but I'm afraid it's either that, or spend tens of thousands of pesos on the internet while I try to document every detail. Bare with me, I will try to stay more current!

Before leaving Peru, I spent my last day back in my village of Socma. It is not the easiest journey to make. You have to know whether there is a big truck, carrying people and supplies going up and which town it is leaving from. I left Cusco around 6am in order to get to Pachar, a small town just before Ollantaytambo, by 8am. From there, I walked for about 20 min to a point at which I'd been told that there may be a truck passing by and into the valley. I was in luck. I climbed in the back to find several ladies from Socma and a nearby village also heading up. It was so nice to be recognized and we shared bread and chatted all the way up.

Once we arrived in Socma, I climbed down and was instantly surrounded by the people that had been working in the main field. I had been looking forward to surprising them and it was such a warm feeling to be amongst the people Id become so close to again! I toured the coops of some of the houses, visited with those that were still home and when I returned to the school grounds, the kids saw me and came running over. I've said this before, but there simply is nothing like the love of a child and to have 3o of them rush towards you, calling your name and scrambling to hug you... ahhh, words cannot suffice. They even broke into song and dance and I caught it on video! Eventually, I had to pull myself away. After being invited for soup at one home, I was told I must join the ladies down by the river for their artisans training. I sat in the circle of ladies, watching them learn to sew dolls and weave the most intricate designs. I shared in their snack of corn and rice and even helped sew a little. My heart swelled - those are the moments (days) that stay with you and that you can never get as a tourist!

I said my final goodbyes to Cusco (for now at least) and boarded 3 planes to Barranquilla, Colombia. I did not have much of a plan, so I just chose an airport in the north. Turns out, my instinct did not choose well this time and Barranquilla is just a big city. Luckily, I stayed with a sweet couchsurfing couple, one American and one Colombian and they got me started. I had a fantastic night of dancing before I left for Cartagena.

Cartagena

A famously romantic city, with 3 distinct areas: The charming old city, surrounded by castle-like walls and towers, rainbow colored buildings, women in Columbian flag ruffled dresses selling fruit from baskets on their heads, horse drawn carriages, jungle-like plazas and latin music reverberating from one venue or another. Boca Grande, a lizard tail peninsula of expensive high-rises and packed beaches and what I consider the real city, a fairly dirty, congested and poor area with a lack of green and too many vehicles.
Incredible heat and humidity!
Delicious variety of street foods, especially the cups of fruit.
Interesting night life, with dancers performing in the streets, salsa, rock and reggaeton. The juice shops begin selling smoothies with a dash of rum - yum!
A friend of mine and I, went to Columbia's largest mud volcano (I don't know how many actually exist) by bus and motorbike. Through lush green scenery, as I imagine the african savanah to look, we zipped until we came to the base. Up the ladder we climbed and it was one of the coolest experiences that I've had in Columbia. You submerge yourself, but only just below the surface. You can't reach the bottom, but you can't go further down. It was almost like anti-gravity! Men in the crater push you to a spot and then give you a massage (for a tip of course) and then afterwards you descend to a lake nearby where a lady grabs you and begins to bathe you. She reached in my top and cleaned out my ears... Ha, I knew they would also ask for a tip, but how often do you get bathed these days! I wish I could do it again!

Medellin

Again, as a tourist/backpacker you don't really get to see the real city. Most of the hostels are in a ritzy, very safe and cool area, quite removed from down town.
THE place to hang out is "the park". Surrounded by cafés, restaurants and clubs, you will most likely meet everyone there at some point. Most nights started here with a bottle or two and eventually the group, that had slowly grown over time, would decide on one club or another to dance the early AM hours away.
My hostel had everything. A restaurant, bar, internet, comfy TV lounge with cable and a huge DVD library and even a pool. When the weather was rainy, I found myself more than once cuddled up amongst the pillows and 10 other backpackers watching movies - quite nice for a change.
I spent one day seeing the rest of Medellin. I joined a worker from the hostel on his bike around down town, not much to see really besides a couple nice buildings, statues, a nice big market with whole animal carcasses on display and more prostitutes than I've seen anywhere else. We continued about an hour out of town to Santa Elena, a tiny town set in lush greens and flowers. I spent the day relaxing in the fresh air, hiking around the paths and generally enjoying the slow pace of the countryside.
I was lucky enough to be in town to see Colombia play Chile in their quest to qualify for the World Cup! Ahh, there is nothing like football in South America and even though they lost, I relished in the competitive, happy, frenetic atmosphere of a crowded stadium.

Bogota

I had been warned against Bogota on grounds of violence and theft. I decided I wanted to see for myself and was rewarded with a holiday in town and therefore an extended cyclovia where several of the main roads are closed and thousands of people ride bikes, rollerblade, jog and walk their dogs through town. I was delighted to find families, kids and friends of all ages outside, enjoying their city, watching an interesting mix of street performers (a great guineapig show and a talented set of rappers to start) and getting some exercize!
El Monserrate is an imposing mountain looking over Bogota with a pretty church atop. I was only able to admire it from below unfortunately because the rainy weather would not have permitted a view.
Once again, the bakeries and street food stalls were like magnets. I cannot resist trying something new and there seems to be no end! Delicious.
Being a bit museum-jaded, the Gold Museum is definitely worth a visit.
San, a new traveling buddy and I decided to check out the famous Salt Cathedral. I was not expecting much, since I'd been to the salt capital of the world in Bolivia, but this was apparently the number one marvel in Columbia. I was so very impressed! The town that it is situated in, Zipaquirá, was a lovely little town, clean, wide streets and friendly plazas. The salt cathedral itself was actually carved inside the mountain and incredibly unique. Symbolic chambers, cool lighting, a beautiful mirror pond, a great guide and a cheesy but funny 3D movie! I just wish I had had time for Colombia's highest rock climbing wall!
I couchsurfed once again with a guy named Oliver and he was a wonderful host! These interactions truly enrich my experience and I want to send a big thank you out to him!

I left cold and rainy Bogota with a list of things to see when I return. What was supposed to be an 11hr journey turned into 15 for some reason and I am now in the salsa capital of Colombia, Cali. Last night, I joined a friend at his dance studio for a class and it was fantastic! They even mixed it was a little hiphop and reggaeton - so fun! Afterwards, we went to one of the hottest salsotecas in town and I was in such awe of pure talent there! I can only hope that one day I will be able to dance like them!

Highest of Heights

2009-09-25T20:50:00.010+05:30

Unless I'm in a plane, I'm fairly positive that the 6,088m (19,974ft) peak of Huyana Potosi is my highest of heights - forever. As competitive as I am, as much as most challenges inspire me to do them again, faster, longer, higher etc, this was no normal challenge for me and at this point, I believe I can cross it off my list. Climbing this mountain was the most dangerous, most difficult and most challenging experience of my life and whereas I am incredibly proud and excited to have successfully sumitted, I do not feel the usual desire to do it again. -Once in a life time-

The sirens call of adventure, the inexpensive pricetag and the persuasion of Migi, my Swiss friend who had been set on climbing this mountain for some time, combined to push me into the spontaneous decision, literally 15 min before closing time the night before. Am I crazy? I had no warm clothes and detest the cold, no experience except for a little ice climbing in college and in general feel somewhat out of shape, so what was I thinking?? This was no liesurly stroll!

We began early, getting fitted for gear. The agency provided everything from sleepingbag, ice pick, crampons and boots to gloves, pants and jackets. Next, our group of 4 Argentinians, a Swiss, a Dane and myself drove up to the base refuge set next to a pale teal pond, stopping on the way to admire the most unbelievable lake that I have ever seen. All colors of the rainbow as if from the imagination of a child with a box of crayons, not yet limited by reality.

After a hearty lunch, we tromped up to the nearest glacier, about an hour away to practice climbing techniques and get used to the equipment. The sun glistened off the ice crags as we cheered eachother on, I could barely contain my excitement - skipping is not so easy in crampons! :) On the walk back, the mists rolled in and once again I found myself in utter awe of my surroundings. Our reflections trekked across pastel mirror lakes and the setting sun warmed the mountains across the valley. That night, we were joined by 2 frenchmen and after dinner relaxed by the fire, played cards and enjoyed a good nights rest.

Day 2 was a day of aclimization so we didn't leave until after lunch. This time, with packs and full gear, we made the steep 3-4 hour hike above the snow line. This time, I could feel it. Once the clouds settled, the view dropped to just a few meters ahead and the slope must have been at least 60 degrees - phew! The second refuge turned out to be no more than a tiny tin hut with a small alcove to cook on a portable stove and 10 matress pads, 5 side to side below and 5 sqeezed together on a shelf above - for the 12 of us. No matter, I figured the sleepover setting would at least keep me warm. I stayed outside admiring the sheer beauty all around me after everyone else had gone in. The clouds lifted like the lid of a treasure chest and there, high above the valley, far away from most humans, plants and animals, everything seemed so alive! I could hear the ice and snow chattering away like rice crispies in milk, the breezes scurried from one valley to the next until brushing past me, both daring me to resist their chill and catch their message. Even the rocks seemed to whisper a story and I, in that place, felt so alive!

I stayed out until the late hour of 6:30pm and finally joined the others cuddled up in their sleepingbags. Unfortunately, I've never been one for much sleep and forcing myself to turn off at such and hour was impossible. The next 6 hours were miserable! It was too hot, believe it or not, getting bumped from both sides, severely dehydrated and the worst was being right under the skylight, condensation would collect and drop down on me, at least 8 times directly in the eye! Let me tell you, I was not feeling so alive when the 1am "wakeup" call came!

Like zombies, we slowly layered up, while battling the various demons of stomache, head and muscle aches, lack of sleep and our senses of reason and logic throwing up a white flag. Two climbers roped to a guide, we began the laborious climb 3 by 3. The slope varied between 40 and 75degrees, I followed Migi's boots in the 3ft wide glow of my headlamp and talked myself towards the peak's sillohette, slightly blacker than the black night sky. About an hour in, despite his magical coca bonbons and his will to continue, the altitude got the better of dear Migi and he was forced to concede along with one of the Argentinians. We shuffled guides and I found myself between Jose and Stefan - my new team.

Up, up, up we went, trudging through ice and snow. More often than I care to admit I had to stop to catch my breath and luckily I wasn't the only one. To keep myself focussed I even resorted to counting my steps, taking refuge in the fact that each one was that much closer and reminding myself that we'd be back by lunch time. Mmmm the motivation of soup! Several times, the guide would push us through a particular area due to the risk of splintering ice or rocks coming loose - we could actually hear the glacier cracking - another fantastic motivation!

As dawn approached, we leaped 4ft wide, deeper than I care to imagine, crevasses, tottered over 1ft wide ice bridges, picked our way up walls of massive icicles and it took every shred of will power to keep moving forward. A neon pink and orange band broke across the horizon and shed just enough light to allow us to appreciate the scenery we had been missing - so many mountains all around us and ours looming above. Almost there. One more heart-pounding, icicle-shattering climb and a short hike to the peak that barely fit the three of us and there I was! Standing at my highest of heights. I'd like to think it was the air pressure that squeezed a tear or two to the surface!

The details of the descent are mostly a blur, but I clearly remember the various ice formations, frozen turquoise cascades, spikey snow fields, black hole cravasses and smooth white slopes. I remember being simultaneously thrilled and exhausted and proud... and anxiously awaiting the bottom! We were back in La Paz around 4 and I was surprised that my personal batteries had any juice left in them. I was actually able to go out to a decent hour that night with friends before a lovely night's sleep.

The very next day I mountain biked down the world's most dangerous road - the "Death Road". Rain and fog and sunshine all made an appearance during the 75k mostly downhill ride through the jungle along a muddy, rocky one way road with a straight drop off of several hundred meters.
Next came a trip to Copa... Copacabana where music and passion are always the fashion :). It was a small tourist town with the historically signifigant island of the sun off it's lake Titicaca coast and fabulous trout. Then it was back to Peru! Ahh, what an adventure Bolivia was and although I am looking forward to relaxing a few days in Cusco, I hope to make it back there one day!

For more images from the mountain: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2020566&id=60100993&l=9cb985c1c8

Sugar and the Peace

2009-09-21T18:11:00.008+05:30

Sweet, sweet Sucre was one exciting day after another! I felt so immediately comfortable in this bright city and coupled with their largest annual festival, a fantastic group of fellow travelers, good food and friendly locals, I would have loved to stay there indefinitely, soaking up more of that nectar.

I left Potosi with no idea where I would stay in Sucre. Perhaps somewhere near the bus station until I got my bearings? As usual though, things worked out and I spoke to the only other foreigner on the bus, a welshman named Adam, while waiting for our bags who had a recommendation of where to stay down town. Once we arrived, I noticed one of the guys that had been in my tour group in Potosi was also there, Migi from Switzerland, who was sitting with a german guy, Markus. Thus was the beginning of the Sucre gang. The told me of a festival that would be taking place that coming weekend and I promptly made plans to stay for the week.

What a week! I had plenty of time to relax during the days, exploring Sucre's green spaces, parks, view points, wide, clean streets, markets and plazas. There was always something going on, a concert, an exhibit etc and as more travelers from a couple hostels came together we had a nice big group to hit the clubs at night. One night, after Markus and Adam had both left, Migi and I were having dinner and we decided to play a game. Let's try to guess where every person in this restaurant is from. Sadly to say, I lost, but in the process, we made a couple new friends, a dutch couple, invited them over, the four of us ran into another two at the next bar and oh did the sugar-high ensue! The 6 of us nearly took over a place called Joy Ride (which would become our regular haunt). A couple of us girls got free drink tickets for dancing on the bar, but when Migi decided to try to dance on a bar stool, not only did he not last long, all he unfortunately got was our applause and laughter! Afterwards we went to an after hours bar where we danced the night away, Cary surprised me with his salsa moves and around 5am, our pre-pre-party came to a tired but expectant end.

The next day, after a good sleep-in, we lunched and the festival began around 2pm with mostly children's groups dancing through the streets. We wandered around, taking in the festivities, watching the people arrive, sampling street food, randomly meeting up with friends here and there. The parade continued until well after 2am when the last of us decided to end the pre-party. We needed some sleep before the real festival. I would love to write an entire entry on the society of travelers that you meet along your journey. How nice it is to recognize faces, share stories and tips with eachother and even share a little bit of one another's culture while experiencing the same exciting places. On any given night I might be out with people from 10+ different countries, relishing in the music, the dance, the new food together, as one big traveler cocktail! I adore this aspect of backpacking!

Finally Saturday came and the parade began around 8am! I spent a lazy sunny morning in the hostel courtyard, writing in my journal and listening to the music in the distance. Once we made it to the main square and before we found a good spot to take pictures, I was interviewed not once, but twice! First by a man with the best mustache I've seen since India speaking on an old fashioned phone for a radio broadcast in quechua ( I surprised him by pulling out a few of the words I'd learned) and then by a man conducting a broadcast from his cell phone! Such a contrast in technology. We settled down in the front row and could hardly draw ourselves away after nearly 5 hours! Every time we agreed we were hungry or needed to move, we said "Okay, just after this next group.", "We'll just wait 'til that fancy bunch with the wild costumes comes" or "those swirling ladies" or "those adorable dancing kids". One after another, we could just not believe how many people were participating, they just kept coming!! Once night fell, Cary and I scrambled up a pipe to sit in a window well, the best seats in the house :).

Dinner was once again, irresistible street food and then back to Joy Ride for the longest night of dancing in my life! The bar was empty when we arrived and we put that nice open floor to good use! I must have danced for 7 hours straight without pause - I was high with the exhilaration of the music and the company :). Once the place was too crowded to move, we hit the streets, yes the parade was still in full swing around 2am and we joined the mayhem for a while longer. What a fabulous human expression - thousands upon thousands of people coming together celebrating life!

Sunday, working on about 3 hours of sleep, 5 of us drove out to one of South America's most colorful markets. I did a little shopping but more people watching and when we finally returned it was time to buy a few more of the famous chocolates and bid a sad farewell to Sucre. We took a night bus to La Paz and ended up at a recommended hostel. Another crazy place, predominantly Irish, dorm beds this time, nightly activities in their own bar, a girls only room with hair dryer and straightener (a luxury on the backpacker circuit!) as well as a comfy TV room with DVDs. After a double-decker bus tour of the city, the famous witches market, pub trivia and the second night, we lost Cary, who had been a great travel buddy and Migi convinced me to sign up to climb Mt. Huyana Potosi - a whopping 6,088m high! I had never really had the desire to do such a thing before, besides perhaps Kilimanjaro and now... well that story will have to wait until the next entry. I must pack up and head to Copa... Copacabana (where music and passion are always the fashion ;)

Salt and Silver

2009-09-12T00:57:00.006+05:30

Bolivia has more than made up for it's complicated border process. Uyuni, a town set hundreds of kilometeres from any other city, on one side a bleak landscape of desert and lifeless plains and on the other side, the world's largest (more than 12,000sq K) salt flats. Wide open streets that allow the icy winds to race through, chilling everyone to the bone. Curiously, I couldn's help but notice how the town seemed deserted besides the central tourist plaza. Very few people could be seen outside, doors always seemed shut and the animals that normally run rampant were missing.

The only reason I was there was to witness this saline wonder and it was every bit as impressive as I'd been told. I joined another british traveling pair and a japanese boy in a jeep and after stopping in the famous train cementary, rusting engines and cars sunken into the ground, pieces of track that once carried these proud machines and their treasures to the coast, strewn about along with piles of several hundred year old parts left to the elements, we were soon on the trail, smoothed and darkened by caravans of tour jeeps. Our first stop was a salt hotel/museum where everything from the tables and chairs to the beds and walls were made of salt and then on to the Isla Incawasi, a cactus island in a blinding sea - simply indescribable. Gleaming white and flat until the clear blue horizon like someone forgot to draw the flora onto this page of Bolvia.

There is a tradition of taking cheesy perspective photos and who am I to go against tradition ;) Each little group set about getting the funniest pics and I think we got a few keepers. The view from the top of the island allowed us to take in the vast expanse of blank earth - so beautiful in it's own right.

The next day I found my way to Potosi, the world's highest city and once one of the world's largest and richest as well with the discovery of it's silver mine. I decided to try couchsurfing for the first time in South America since it had been a great way to meet locals in India and provided a much more immersive experience and it was a great decision! For those of you that don't know about this awesome travelers network, check it out at http://www.couchsurfing.com/. Juan Carlos not only provided me a room and bathroom in his family's manor house in the heart of the city but also picked me up from the bus station and showed me around to some of the main sights. We stumbled upon a small parade of cars decorated from bumper to bumper in fuzzy blankets, stuffed animals and dolls. I saw archways decorated in fruit and silver - what's this? There was a band and people were dancing around the cars - ha! I just adore random festivals like this! I tried to take a couple pictures, the people not only encouraged it but one little old lady gave me a shot of a mystery orange alcohol and another man came up to explain what was going on. Everyone in Bolivia has been SO friendly and helpful!

A week never goes by that I don't find myself on a dance floor and this was no exception. The first night, I joined Juan and his friends for some latin dancing and in the world's highest city - that's quite a work out! The next day I wandered the city, my favorite pasttime, getting a feel for Potosi and that evening I was invited to a BBQ - something backpackers don't get very often! I met more friendly Bolvians and we ended up with plates of delicious food followed by games I haven't played since Highschool. I'm talking spin the bottle, truth or dare, King Elephant (Shout out to my PWs!) and that kissing the card game... haha, it was actually a lot of fun!

The highlight of Potosi besides the people was definitely the tour of the mine. As I've said before, I generally try to avoid organized tours but this is not possible for the mines, nor desireable. You need someone who knows where they are going and get explain the history. It was fantastic! Our first stop, after changing into miner's gear, not a toursit gimmick but for protection while underground, was in the miner's market. We could buy real dynamite, the only place in the world that it's legal, as well as coca leaves and drinks as gifts for the miners. The miners work as a part of a cooperative, each milking their own claim and work an average of 8 hours every day. They eat nothing, simply chewing coca leaves with a catalyst such as quinoa ash that numbs their mouth, their appetite and gives them energy - so interesting. Because of the mountains volcanic history, the beginning of the tunnels actually had icicles hanging precariously in our way and amazingly, just one level down, the temperature must have been at least 85-90 degrees F! We clamored through the shafts, sometimes able to walk upright, sometimes barely able to walk at all. We met some of the miners, gave them the gifts we had brought and I even chipped in when one of the heavy carts arrived, being pulled and pushed by four men, and shovelled rock to the other side of the tracks - he asked if I could come back the next day! :)

Two thirds of our group could not go to the next level down because of troubles breathing, claustrophobia etc so a couple of us continued down a rickety ladder to see "El Tio" the local deified statue that protects the miners from trouble. Everything was just so real, such an unproduced, raw look at life in the mines and I learned so much! Wow am I lucky not to have that profession!

I've now arrived in the sweet city of Sucre and thus far, I am quite enamored! There is a massive festival this weekend with an expected attendance of 25,000 people and I can't wait!

Every mile, worth the while

2009-09-03T23:49:00.004+05:30

I've once again, fallen behind in my updates. Since I last wrote, I was in Peru, raced through Chile and have just arrived in Bolivia after one heck of a border crossing! At the risk of omitting certain Flourishing details, but simultaneously saving you from scrolling for hours, I'll simply list some of the highlights :).

Pachamama

Arriving early that morning, Gabe and I started bargaining for a taxi to Urubamba when suddenly I heard my name and to my surprise, it was the driver that I had used the whole summer for my Rustic kids. He was heading that way - what luck!
When our bus pulled up, I was once again pleasantly surprised to see many of my favorite villagers awaiting our arrival and I received a line of hugs and kisses. It felt like seeing family!
We were invited to the home of the mayor for his birthday and attended a special mass.
Rather than take a seat inside one of the caravan of trucks, I rode standing up in the back with the rest of 'my people', exchanging smiles and catching up on our way to Camicancha.
The big day began with 4 soccer games between the two villages. Older ladies, with their skirts a'swishing, younger girls (yes that was my group ;), older men and then the younger boys. I have missed competition SO much and I had a ball! I also earned the honor of MVP of my game! :) Both villages munched on snacks, drank of the free-flowing chicha and laughed and cheered on the players.
Next came the FOOD! Three under-earth ovens had been prepared and everyone received a heaping plate of lamb and vegetables. It was a very special afternoon, to see everyone seated, eating together after an afternoon of friendly competition. Bonds were made and the process has begun!

Cusco, Peru

Back in Cusco, I spent time with several friends coming in and out of town as well as a few locals. It was nice to see Kyle, Ian, Angela, Juan, Gabe, Alex, Ximena and Frank!
Salsa at Inca Team was amazing! Ive never danced in the round like that and let me tell you, it's just nice to be in the hands/arms of a guy that knows how to move you! ;)
I explored the outskirts of Cusco, the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Americas, hiked the hills and strange abandoned monuments. Unfortunately, to see any of the most "important" sights in Cusco you have to buy a tourist pass which is about $40. It's a real limitation if you dont have the time or transport to see them all.

Arika, Chile

A nice quiet town with a beautiful plaza and pedestrian mall. A cliff right downtown offers a nice view of both the ocean and the city and the beaches were clean and nearly devoid of people!
Chile seems to like to force tourists into groups, so I yet again joined a tour to the world's highest non-navigable lake, Lago Chungara. Absolutely Breathtaking! At least 4 mountains were reflected in the lake, each very unique, from a conical snow-capped mountain to a pastel fang-like range. Llamas, vicuñas and other cute wildlife abounded. Upon our return we wound around, up and over hills and watched the peachy-raspberry sunset deepen into a pumpkin-cherry jubilee before giving way to a crystaline star laden night sky. Ahh, the complex beauty of this, our Earth!

San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

First and foremost, this is the most expensive city in Chile and one of the most expensive in all of South America! Hot during the day, cold and night, a desert old-west feel to the town inundated with travel agencies and restaurants.
That being said, I ate some of the best food that I have had during my entire trip, including a tastebud befuddling mushroom quinoa risotto with carmelized ginger cinnamon tomatoes coupled with a bottle of Chilean Carmenère! Yum!
Ian and Jordan, my San Pedro travel buddies and I braved the 4am start time for a sunrise trip to the world's 3rd largest geyser and geothermic field. -7degrees C greeted us and I seriously thought I may lose a toe or two before Jordan had the brilliant idea of setting the box of hot milk on top of my feet - I owe him a toe or two! :) The geysers and fumaroles gurgled and spouted all around us and as the mornings first rays lit them up, it was other-worldly!
That same afternoon we rented bikes and rolled out to the Valley of the Moon. Again, I was expecting a rocky scene, but this truly was like we were on the moon! We scrambled through caves (I admit having more than one nerdy moment, jumping around corners with my imaginary phaser :) and finally watched the sunset or rather burn into the horizon - one of the most incredible sunsets I have ever witnessed! Plus the 30+ kilometer ride felt great!

Bolivian Border

I could not get a consensus on how to get into Bolivia without taking another tour so I winged it only to find it was a lot more complicated than I thought!
The Chilean and Bolivian border posts are an hour apart and once into Bolivia, because I was not with an agency, the man took my passport from me and stuck it in a drawer. After much time waiting around, icy winds whipping around this shack, literally in the most desolate landscape that I have ever seen, I managed to get my passport back and join a jeep that took me to another jeep that took about 8 hours to get to Uyuni.
Along the way, the road (which at times was just two parallel tracks barely etched into the desert) had collapsed and a semi truck had tipped over. A crew was busy trying to flip it upright and our driver didnt know what to do. There was an ambulance in our way and it would take hours to find another way through. Both myself and an englishman asked our driver to talk to the workmen but he just sat there mumbling that he couldn't. After nearly half an hour wait, I finally asked if I could get out and talk to them. I walked up, politely said that I understood they were busy, but if the CAT could smooth the sunken road a little and the ambulance could scoot over, we could pass. He was surprisingly nice, like the fact that we (and another two or three jeeps) were waiting hadn't occurred to him and just 5 minutes later, we were back on the move!
I finally arrived in Uyuni and after paying several fees (the ride, the transfer, the park...) I tried to get my visa, that they refused to give me at the border and the immigration office would not accept my USD (America is the only country that must pay an absurd $135 upon entry because of our unfriendly visa regulations towards Bolivians!) because they had microscopic rips in them! It was ultimately frustrating, but eventually I got bolivianos to pay the fee as well as the extra fee since I was in a "tourist border town" - what rubbish! Bolvia has certainly drained me, I hope it was worth it!

I plan on spending a couple weeks in Bolivia, starting with a tour of the world's largest salt flat (the second is in Utah - represent! ;). Then back up into Peru. I hope to write more often, but you never know with these bloody internet connections!

On the (Peruvian) road again

2009-08-19T23:01:00.005+05:30

It is wonderful to be back out wandering the world! It has officially been one week since I saw my last group off at the airport and the urge to turn around the count my now non-existant ducklings has started to fade, I have no schedule, no obligations, no sickness to mother, no massive med-kit to carry around for that matter... ahhh, it's good to be free! That's not to say I don't miss Rustic a little. I met some great kids and my work in the Sacred Valley along with the people truly have changed, I should say, improved my already blessed life. Nevertheless, the open road retains it's siren song and I've got three months and so much to see!

Thus far, I've decompressed a little in Lima. I spent a night at a fellow guide's family's house, perusing their impressive library of books, CDs and DVDs and chatting over a glass or two of wine. It was so refreshing to be around people my age for a change! The following morning, another RP guide and I began a day of indulgence including TWO movies in the theatre and several 'special treats'. I also picked up a surprise birthday package from my incredibly thoughtful friend Stephanie - thank you again dear!!

Next up, a 17 hour bus ride to the charming city of Arequipa just in time for their anniversary celebrations. On the way I met Ian who was just beginning his first backpacking trip outside the states and we joined forces to find a place to stay and take in the festivities. We witnessed the longest parade either of us had ever seen! Already in full swing when we arrived at 1pm, the groups of dancers, marching bands, costumed characters, and floats from various countries stomped, twirled, waved and rolled by until well past 8pm! What a show! The next morning we met yet another RP staff and wandered the city. Arequipa, depite being Peru's second largest city, is relatively quiet and very clean. A grandiose main plaza, chock full of people, palm trees, a fountain, surrounded by colonial archways and flanked by an imposing cathedral and glistens gold at night is one of my favorite places to pass time so far!

We parted ways the next day and I joined a tour into the Colca Canyon. A heated debate still rages as to whether it is the world's deepest at 3501mts, but it is also famous for it's population of condors. Along the way, we passed several points where people had paused to stack rocks upon one another, sometimes thousands of stone towers decorated the roadside. I love seeing these cairns, evidence of careful humans wanting to leave a something behind in recognition of their momentary presence. What I hate, is seeing plastic bottles and other trash lying next to them as proof of careless humans and their unfortunately, less than momentary effect on the land.

Normally, I eschew tours with a preference to see places on my own time. In this case, I had been told that the tour was worth it, so I joined a herd. Besides being called the "latin lovers" by our guide and the obligatory stops at points at which ladies, dressed in "traditional costume", hawked kitch, it wasn't that bad and I did learn about the area that I would have otherwise just driven through. The second day, at the Cruz del Condor viewpoint, I sat on a cliff ledge for about an hour watching these majestic birds with wingspans up to 3mts, swoop and glide under, over and around me. My whole body seemed to be searching for the ability to sprout wings and leap off to join them!

Now back in Arequipa, I'm going to spend one more day here before I take an overnight bus back to Cusco. I've decided to go out of my way and return to the Sacred Valley early in order to attend a big pachamanca planned for the two villages that we worked in over the summer. It is the first step in developing a working relationship between the communities for the raising and marketing of their guinea pigs. I don't want to miss it!

Sparkling Socma

2009-08-08T01:07:00.008+05:30

It's near 11pm and the kids are still playing on the field. Some of my students have retired to their tents after a long work day peeling bamboo, mixing and lifting mud to the roof and laying tiles. Nevertheless the football continues to bounce back and forth between goals with the aid of floodlights... floodlights? My boss and I stayed up well past 1am going through photos for the Rustic catalogue on his laptop... laptop? In Socma??

A transformation has occured in this tiny humble village. They have taken a giant step forward and with the financial and logistical partnership between Rustic Pathways and the Urubamba municipal government, there is now electricity in Socma! Once again, I feel so incredibly lucky to be a part of this historical and life-changing project, however small. My thanks and admiration go out to Alex, Max, Gabe, Juan and Jessemin who initiated, facilitated and made this all possible for these people, my Peruvian family.

This past weekend was one of much celebrating in the form of dancing, dining and drinking (who could ask for more? :). Not only was Saturday the 1st, the inauguration of the electricification, something almost 2 years in the making, but it coincided with Aug 2nd, the anniversary of Socma. Two straight days of festivities with entire neighboring villages coming to take part.

Friday was the first official day that light began streaming from the one bulb that had been installed in town. Late at night, while enjoying our candlelit dinner a beam burst through the window and despite knowing the power would be coming soon, we sat for a moment in confusion. Was it a truck coming up the way? Someone's flashlight? Nope, the municipality had indeed followed through and Socma was alight! Once the kids went to bed, I was invited out back to share a crate of beers that had been bought for the occasion. Now, I'm not allowed to drink at all while the kids are in my care for obvious reasons - obvious to most, but not to them. "Come on! Big occasion! Historical moment! Part of the family! Just a little (never!)". You simply cannot say no. It is a sticky cultural situation. It is very special for me to sit among the community heads, my co-guide Max, one of the DJs from Urubamba and discuss many poignent subjects while Socma's first light enveloped our little group and it took all my slyness to pour most of the bottles out behind me between conspicuous sips and saluds! I went to bed that night with, for the first time, a glow embracing my tent and wonder sparkling in my imagination as to what this development meant for my little Socma.

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I never did get a Birthday Adventure entry up. So much is happening down here, I can hardly keep up with it on the ground let alone in cyberspace. At the risk of losing much of the excitement and energy, the detail and pure love of that wonderful day, suffice it to say that it was one of the best birthdays that I have ever had in my life. Some of the kids that I am closest to got up early to decorate the room where we eat breakfast with streamers and balloons and even made special sweet tamales and punch for everyone! I found out later that they have to peel each individual kernel of corn by hand and grind it into flour - its takes forever! While we ate, more kids ran out and decorated my tent. That afternoon I was whisked into a field and given yarn braid extensions, only to don the entire costume that evening before dinner, much to their delight :). Music played and everyone danced. I was presented two handmade dolls, a pair of handknitted leg warmers two bracelets and flowers. Several ladies cooked a special dinner for me and the students... I was overwhelmed by it all! I literally danced until I could barely stand and fell asleep with harp and flute still ringing in my ears!

Birthweek Adventure

2009-07-27T07:26:00.008+05:30

What a way to welcome a new year of life! In effect, I've had a birthweek rather than a birthday and I could not have felt more loved! It began with the stomach flipping flight in Nasca, followed by a dune skipping afternoon in Huacachina. Ponytail like a windsock, flapping straight behind me, my competetive little 4 person buggy racing the larger buggies, crashing it's way over moguls and clawing up 80 degree inclines - in sand remember - phew! What a rush! It was a good thing that I borrowed glasses to protect my eyes - my chapstick however seemed to be enjoying collecting little grains as momentos (my hair, ears, nose and clothes had already tucked away more than their fair share) and my shoes no longer seemed to fit as they must have been harboring a dune each!

My last run was by far the highest and steepest and I followed those before me by going straight down on my belly. Fresh wax aided my mach speed decent which was exhilerating until I hit the solid bumps at the end. They came out of nowhere and you know that tradition of birthday spanks? Well, I'm pretty sure that's what they were going for. I got beat. A couple nice bruises and enough sand packed in one ear that I heard static for hours.

As night fell, we were treated with a sparkling view of the lagoon and the drivers invited me out for a night of dancing. But of course! Dancin' shoes (eg flipflops) on, I headed to the local salsa bar. I ended up being one of a handful of girls the whole night, so needless to say I could barely catch my breath between songs. The bar tender had studied salsa in cuba, which made him a great partner and once he found out that I was celebrating my birthday, he made me my first 'Pisco Sour', a Peruvian specialty, bien fuerte and wrote a public invitation on his whiteboard outside to my birthday fiesta!

In bed by 4 and up at 6am, I took a boat tour of a group of islands that are home to masses of birds, including penguins, giant red crabs, and sea lions which was fun and then hopped a couple busses back up to Lima. It's nice to have a 'home' to go to and relax a little before my third group arrived.

Soon enough, I was back out at the Lima airport meeting my new kids. A group of 8, 6 girls and 2 boys that I could tell were going to be a handfull (just kidding compañeros!). A flight to Cusco the next morning, shopping for piñatas and plenty o' stuffing, taking care of a sickling student coming from another trip (there's your shoutout Ann :) and then off to Pisac for the evening where we were met with festivities in full swing - for my birthday eve of course (or possibly in celebration of San Carmen?) Our hotel's balcony overlooks the main square so we were treated with a fantastic view of men trotting horses around in circles with bottles of beer raised high, random groups of people in matching outfits marching through and bunches of revelers dancing to flutes and harps and panpipes! One particularly disturbing aspect was the live chickens they would string up like piñatas, twisting and pulling them every which way as the horsemen reached and tried to yank them down! Fireworks capped off our evening but the music and parades lasted throughout the night and I was awakened every hour by marching bands and hoots and hollars... usually not ideal, but I could only smile - it was a great way to start my birthday! My new hotpink birthday underwear (thanks Mom), a couple birthday hugs from the kids and a couple calls from my parents and a friend made the morning even better!

The ruins, the meeting with the mayor, a short tour of Ollantaytambo and then, the moment I'd been really waiting for... my return to Socma! As we approached, the village kids came running from different nooks and crannies and I received more hugs and wishes of 'Feliz Cumpleaños Yessi'! We played a little volleyball and when dinner time rolled around, our cooks had prepared a special stacked pancake birthday cake as a surprise since I'd planned the party for the coming Saturday so that all the kids could attend. What a happy day! The next morning I noticed Max, my fellow guide, meeting with about 15 villagers that we had already worked with. Later, I find out that they had called Max in and not the other way around, to tell him that they wanted to do something special for my birthday - cook a special meal perhaps. Luckily he convinced them that because we would have guineapig, the usual birthday meal in a couple days for the inauguration, that trout would be a better option. How special that not only did they somehow find out and remember, but also wanted to make me something!

I will save the actual birthday party for my next entry. It was such an incredible, exciting and touching day - truly beyond words! I was also the recipient of the most intricately beautiful and unique hat from Max's family and more than 150 notifications on facebook! THANK YOU SO MUCH! As any of you that read my blog regularly, I could not love my friends more and it really means so much to hear from so many of you, in different languages even, when I am clear across the world! I am still smiling from all the warm wishes!

I must head to bed now. I promise I am trying to catch up on blog writing and photo uploading whenever I get a decent enough computer and connection! So many exciting things happening down here!

Rustic Fundraising

2009-07-14T04:53:00.009+05:30

Buenos dias de Peru! I hope this message finds you well and enjoying your summer in contrast to the chilly winter down here. Rather than regale you with tales of adventure, I'm writing to extend a philanthropic request.

As many of you know, I've been working for a company called Rustic Pathways (www.rusticpathways.com) which provides opportunities of travel, cultural exchange and service work for highschool students from around the world. This is the same company that I worked for in New Orleans and India. Having a chance to guide these kids at a pivotal time in their lives has been both a challenge and one of the most rewarding experiences of my life.

In Peru's Sacred Valley, you'll find another smaller hidden valley with several tiny villages such as Camicancha and Socma, where Rustic Pathways is currently based. These villages are home to 20-50 families each and they are tight-knit communities that live off the land, use the barter system in the markets for life's necessities and, if the families are lucky enough to sell any additional goods, they may have enough to send a child or two to school. The village schoolhouses only serve children until about the age of 8.

Rustic Pathways is a fantastic program that it is an honor to be a part of. This year however, I've discovered a need for assistance. As we all know, the economy has affected everybody and Rustic Pathways has also been impacted with registration for most programs falling significantly. As a result, the project which was designed based on the success of building bathrooms for each family last year, is simply not possible.

This year’s project was designed to help develop a sustainable income and improve the quality of life. Each family that chose to participate would work in conjunction with students to build a guinea pig coop (the domestication of which has been in Peru for more than 4000 years). From start to finish they’d work together, overcoming language and cultural barriers, mixing adobe mud with their bare feet, making and placing the bricks to form walls, peeling bamboo to lay across the roof and finally using the mud mortar to attach the roof tiles. The students would also shuck corn in the community fields and cut the first alfalfa to be fed to their guinea pigs, not to mention play soccer and other games with the children, learn Quechua and sometimes teach English. Both sides benefit greatly, not only for the 8 work days, but through a long lasting impression of the power of one person, the difference you can make no matter your age, juxtaposed with the power of many, of community, of humanity.

The idea to provide a means of income for these families through the building of a coop, purchasing 7 guinea pigs, and alfalfa seed for each, was received so well by the municipality that they joined us in partnership and promised to provide the doors and windows for every coop that we built! We had more than 45 families ask to participate; they need only lay the foundation.

Since Rustic Pathways received fewer students and, thus, less funding than expected, we had to scale back the plan, only building a coop for every family that had already prepared their foundation. After a warm reception and a special pachamanca meal, I attended the meeting with the village heads at which the news was broken. Although they understood that is was out of our control, it was impossible to mask their disappointment. Even worse, when they came up with a list of 19 families, anxiously awaiting the students, we found we only had funding for 16. Three families had to be cut from the list and tears were shed in drawing the fateful line through those names.

It was that moment, my heart so profoundly touched, that I was determined to help.

The cost of an entire coop, building supplies, tools, bamboo rods, support poles, roof tiles, the skylight and of course the guinea pigs is a mere $200usd. Once built, the municipality will not only supply the doors and windows, but continue to provide veterinary support for the animals as well as alfalfa seed. The gestation period of a guinea pig is 3 months and the she is ready to impregnate again just 2 hours after giving birth (to 2-5 babies)! Again, we are not introducing anything new and invasive to these communities. There is evidence to the raising of guinea pigs in Peru since at least 2000 BC and it is now even more practical since the tourist industry places such high demand for guinea pigs - it's a must have on every menu, which means there is even a future potential for export! I am asking you my friends, from the bottom of my heart, for a donation of any amount towards this worthy project. Whether it be $5 or $50, to be able to build those three remaining coops would mean so much to me and this community. If you would like to donate, the easiest way is to do so directly through the Rustic Pathways foundation (www.rusticpathways.org), which is tax deductable (for those in the states :). No amount is too small and anything left over will either be used to build more coops next summer or for the sister project that Rustic is working on - that of bringing electricity to Socma. Eventually we would like to get a couple of computers for the school to improve the education of the little Socmans. Thank you so much for taking the time to read through this. Let me know if you have any questions and I send a big hug from South America!

Can you imagine?

2009-07-11T23:10:00.001+05:30

Imagine teaching a 10 year old salsa steps. Now set yourself in a poor rural village, late at night where the boy's giant grin radiates the starlight and his eyes sparkle with excitement and the recognition that he's learning something from outside his small world. Now add an American student next to you, simultaneously learning from you, teaching another young child and getting an invaluable cultural experience.

Imagine living in a tiny community of 30 or so families, of whom a few speak a foriegn language that you understand and most only speak a truly foreign language that you are slowing picking up phrase by phrase. Imagine the moment that these generally polite, quiet and somewhat shy women gift you a nonverbal sign of acceptance by allowing you to help them cook a special meal. They hand you an unrecognized red vegetable to grate into a gourd as well as many approving smiles, while the guinea pig roasts on the spit next to you.

Ahh, the suprises! Imagine a makeshift fourth of July celebration, surprising the kids in front of a jungle waterfall at the base of Machu Picchu with firecrackers and confetti. How about surprising a student who came for her first time to Peru after having been adopted from the country as a baby, with a special role in the coop inauguration ceremony - breaking a clay pot of chicha with the mayor over the first doorway. Try a birthday surprise for one of the students of a candled cake, a card and clanging pot and plans! Even I get surprises when a couple students decide to replace my half-dead headphones with a new set - how sweet!

Can you imagine me giving an interview on the radio, being broadcast to the entire Urubamba valley, speaking about the project and such subjects as sustainable development, cultural exchange, construction of guinea pig coops and our partnership with the municipality... all en español !!? Well, I did! :)

This last group of kids were an awesome bunch. A diverse set of personalities that, for the most part, worked well together. It makes all the difference in the world to have kids that are aware of the impact that they are making, are interested in learning about where they are, the history, the future, simply put, they care. I'm sending another big thanks y un abrazo fuerte de Peru to each of them!

I'm writing this entry from Huacachina, an honest to goodness oasis. A blue lagoon surrounded by mountainous sand dunes, beckoning to be played on... and so I shall :) If bungee jumping off the highest jump in the Americas was not enough of a birthday adventure (although I must say it was quite possible the most thrilling and frightful moment of my life - more than skydiving!), then I thought I'd try a flight over the enigmatic nasca lines (sitting as co-pilot :) coupled with an afternoon of sandboarding! I know this year I am a little early, but I'll be spending my actual birthday back in Socma with the next group, perhaps not an adventure, but nevertheless with the potential of being one of my best bithdays ever! We're throwing un gran fiesta for the village, replete with confetti, music, cake and I'm hoping to track down a piñata as well! All the trappings to usher in my 28th... ach, I can't believe it!!

Magnificent Machu Picchu

2009-06-25T10:51:00.005+05:30

After days of hard work, mixing mud to build their coops, the kids mix in a day of adventure, leaving their tents behind, mountain biking through scenic countryside and villages, rafting down the world famous Urubamba river and perusing the markets, not to mention a nice hot shower in town. Rested and clean, they return rejuvinated to Socma to complete the building with their families, which is a process I feel very fortunate to be a part of. What a sense of accomplishment and empowerment for these kids when they tie those bamboo down and place the final roof tiles.

The last day in town, the kids are honored with a mérienda, a plate of locally produced veggies and carefully prepared cuy (guinea pig). Each family, the students and guides, other villagers and nearly all the niños that we had befriended over the week gathered to inaugurate the coops and it was a colorfully joyous afternoon. Confetti decorated everyones hair, a bottle of chicha was broken in an offering to the Pacha Mama (Mother Earth), doors were garlanded in greens and balloons and each set of students placed the first 7 cuy in their coop along with the alfalfa that they had cut and dried themselves. I simply cannot tell you how rewarding it is to see these kids participate in every step of providing a new sustainable life for this tiny village!

That night, the Socmans performed a series of traditional dances for the students including the most darling little set of spinning kids, boys dressed up as old men and a curious display of manhood where two by two, boys and men alike, join arms in friendship and then break apart to whip eachothers legs. Something in the way of showing pennance, the men maintain a stoic expression as each lash wraps around them, but boy, a couple of the little tykes get pretty upset when their partner gets in a solid whack!

The following night is spent in the tranquil setting of Rumira on the banks of the Urubamba. A Pacha Manca dinner is roasted underground (no guinea pig this time, just chicken and lamb, oh and my new favorite potato - an Ocha!) and the kids receive certificates from the mayor thanking them for their service to the Sacred Valley. On up to Aguas Calientes, a town that exists solely to cater to the tens of thousands of tourists that come to visit Machu Picchu each year. The kids nearly begged to be allowed to go to a discoteca and anyone knows, I am not one to argue against a night of dancing, so I braved the night scene with ten highschoolers in tow. They all agreed to get up early in order to catch the sunrise, so 6am found us aboard the shuttle up the mountain.

I can honestly say, in all my travels, I have seen nothing like the land surrounding Machu Picchu. The closest I can come is Meteora Greece, which is also an awe-inspiring sight. Jagged peaks rise from the valley like teeth; a maw that was once surely fierce and unyielding, now softened as with age with a layer of bushy green stubble and dense jungle. It is easy to see how the Spanish had difficulty finding this mysterious, magical hideaway.

We arrived at dawn to witness the first rays streaking through the mists and warming the incan stone. These students happened to be extra lucky because it was June 21st, the winter solstice and the only day in the entire year that the rising sun beams through the window of the sun temple and forms a perfect trapezoid on the altar! Half the group opted to make the precarious climb up Huayna Picchu for amazing views of the valley, while the other half wandered the ruins absorbing the ancient energy. I am just so lucky that I get to come back up to this spectacular wonder of the world 3 more times this summer!

The group wound up their 2 week journey with an entertaining train ride, bungee jumping from the highest jump in the Americas, touring Cusco a little more and some last minute shopping. After many heartfelt goodbyes, I had just enough time to catch my breath, (about an hour) before I picked up the next group to do it all over again! This time I have a better grasp on how everything works so I feel I can be even more help to the students. They are a good bunch so far and we will head into Socma tomorrow, so send lots of news for when I finally return to the www!

Tusú rukù suey'chis!

2009-06-20T01:33:00.004+05:30

"Buenos dias Señorita" accompanies a light rapping on my tent flap. I unzip my door to greet two smiling faces, one with a kettle of hot water and the other with a selection of tea bags, coca leaves, hot chocolate and sometimes even coffee. This is our wake-up call in the village of Socma, around 7am allowing us to ease into the day with a warm cuppa (that is if we've managed to sleep through villagers passing by and any number of donkeys, horses, sheep, roosters, dogs and cows trumpeting the morning news). It's a wonderful way to start a day.

Due to said natural alarm clocks, I'm usually awake and I'll take my tea out into the sunshine (once I manage to extract myself from my ultra cozy sleepingbag) and greet the kids as they one by one shuffle to the bathroom and into breakfast. We've hired a couple locals to cook our meals, Socma has many men that work as porters and cooks on the various incan trails during the tourist season as there is not much opportunity for employment this far off the beaten path - and the food is excellent.

Food is in fact a major part of the day here. After morning tea and breakfast, the kids are provided a snack, something like fruit and cookies, to take with them while they work. We've paired two kids with one family and the families usually share a 'snack' as well which can consist of anything from dried corn, beans, eggs on up to a plate loaded with meat, potatoes and pasta. Around noon, the kids return for a hearty lunch starting with soup, then around 5:30pm is afternoon tea with crackers/cookies/fried cheese pockets/popcorn etc and finally dinner around 7:30, which again starts with soup, main course and a dessert. Needless to say, the kids never get a chance to get hungry.

As a T.C. however, we get additional 'treats'. T.C., meaning Trip Coordinator, is not my official title but a Peruvian (maybe South American?) term that entitles me to certain perks such as a free meal when we take the kids to a restaurant, free room in the hotels we stay and even for example, if all of my kids buy hats at a certain shop, they will throw in an extra for me. I have yet to try out that last one, but apparently it's fairly common.

Each day, as I climb to the students houses to check in on them, (a serious workout by the way on the complex system of 'paths' that seem to reinvent themselves each night like Pan's Labyrinth) the altitude and severe incline ensure that I am gulping oxygen by the time I get there and more often than not I am invited to partake in a meal. It is not only an insult to say no, but also to leave food on your plate, never mind that it might be your 6th meal of the day and its barely 3pm. Usually, I can hardly look at the mound of food on my plate let alone consume it. I have a problem.

The other day though, I came up with a sollution. It was one of the Señora's birthday and they were throwing a fiesta. Confetti sprinkled everywhere, music playing and guinea pig, among other things heaped on a plate for me right after lunch and a snack at the previous house. I knew I was in trouble. I picked at the food, delicious as it was, making sure they saw me enjoying it and wondered how I would possible clear my plate. Suddenly, it dawned on me, I asked Max, our local guide how to say this in Quechua and I stood up to exclaim "Tusú rukù suey'chis!" (Let's dance!). The birthday girl jumped up, already fairly drunk off chicha, the local corn brew and joined me, spinning and stomping with a giant grin. It worked! I pulled the kids into the fray and the rest clapped to the beat... ahh, it was one of those moments that will forever be with me. It may not work every time, but I'm keeping it up my sleeve ;).

The kids work hard every day constucting their guinea pig coops together with their Socma families. They mix mud with their feet, fashion adobe bricks (weighing about 45lbs when dry), carry and place the bricks to form the walls and sections of the coop and apply the mud mortar. They peel bamboo and set the roof tiles in place and when not building they shuck corn in the community fields, learn how to sew traditional dolls (a new womans initiative in Socma) and cut alfalfa to dry for their guinea pigs. They've also taught for a day in the local school, played soccer with the villagers (our tents are set up between the school and the field) and even frisbee or catch with a softball (yes that was my addition ;) At night, which comes early as the hills tightly embrace little Socma, we've played plenty of catchphrase and card games - it's a great life.

We have now finished our service in Socma, with a great ceremony 'christening' the new coops. It was a wonderful day and I'll write more on that in future entries. Today is our last day of camping with a Pacha Manca (traditional feast) and several important guests (like the Mayor of the Sacred Valley) and tomorrow we travel to Aguas Calientes, which is at the base of... Machu Picchu! Sunday will be my first visit to this majestic wonder of the world and I am very excited!

Hugs to all my friends and family - hopefully pics to come soon!

Rustic Peru

2009-06-08T22:59:00.007+05:30

A knot of conflicting emotions, I boarded a shuttle at 2:30am for the Seattle Airport. Although I was more prepared than I ever have been before, I guess Im getting good at this moving thing ;), I felt somewhat less prepared mentally. I hit the ground running after India, never really getting out of a backpack, spending time in more than eight different towns and three states and while these reunions were so needed and they did charge my batteries in a way, I just never had time to stop and breath, reset.

I plodded through the all too familiar airport routine, check-in, throw out the remainder of my drink, take off my shoes, scan and shuffle slowly to the gate, sleep deprived and scrolling through thoughts and ideas and questions and memories...

Both flights went smoothly and around 11pm (Peru is on central time), I collected my bags and witnessed my first evidence of the swine flu scare, as every employee of an airline or an airport was wearing a face-mask. An eery first impression of Peru. I met my new boss, Gabe, got a couple hours sleep, before we turned right back around and boarded a plane from Lima to Cuzco.

At slighty more than 10,000ft, training began and over the course of the week, myself and another summer staff, along with the country director and program manager, became oriented with the towns and villages that we'd be working in for the next 10 weeks. We had an official meeting with the Mayor of the Sacred Valley, which was interesting and I visited Socma, the village that I would be bringing students to (the project involves three villages in the valley). As a wonderful surprise, the villagers had prepared a "pachamanca" for us (a traditional meal for special occasions). They gathered in the town square (where we will be camping) and uncovered the goat and potatoes that had been roasting under hot stones and earth. We each received a heaping plate full and as an 'aperitif' a glass of chicha, a drink of fermented corn (not much of a fan). Afterwards, we introduced ourselves and a couple of the women sprinkled freshly plucked flower petals over our heads - such a humbling honor.

Later that night, we met with the heads of the village to discuss the logistics and goals of the project. My spanish comprehension is holding up surprisingly well, but I need a vast improvement in my speaking abilities. Many of the villagers only speak Quechua, for which we have a translator, but I have made it a goal to learn some of that as well. There were several moments in which speakers became emotional either because this project is going to mean so much to the community or more often because we are unfortunately lacking the funds to complete the project as planned. We have had to scale back our original proposal and therefore some of the families will not be getting their guinea pig coops this year. I was so incredibly touched that I have decided to raise funds for the project, so please stay tuned for more information on ways you may be able to help!

This weekend, we finally had a free evening and so after a delicious dinner and a fantastic display of fireworks and crackers strung up on rickety bamboo towers (and of course its the first time that I, for whatever reason, decided to leave my camera at home), I ventured into Cuzco for some long awaited salsa dancing and reggaeton, bringing back very pleasant memories of my life in Guatemala.

Next, we flew back to Lima, will check out the site of the "Dolphins in the Desert" program tomorrow (did you know that Peru has one of the largest dolphin populations in the world?) and the kiddies arrive late on the 9th! Phew, wish me luck!

Check out my itinerary and information regarding the other programs being run here in Peru!

https://www.rusticpathways.com/2009/peru/psv.html

The Highlights

2009-06-01T20:11:00.002+05:30

Just a short two months ago, I was writing about being back in the States, visiting my wonderful friends and spending time in a "home" again and now... my time is up and my compass is set for Peru - My next big Adventure!

I never can believe how quickly time flies and I want to appologize for my lack of blog fodder. It is not that I haven't had much to write about, on the contrary, I've simply let the blog slip while I enjoyed the finer aspects of being in America. In an attempt to catch up and also avoid verbosity, I've collected a list of April and May's highlights.

In attempted chronological order:

Utah

Seeing Alisa, a pure light in my life, and her adorable and expressive little one, Crosby.
Watching Crosby grow up before my eyes and getting to know D a little better.
'Reunion Time 2009' with a surprisingly big turnout of fellow HHS Rams, most with signifigant others and/or children in tow.
Somewhat watching the Jazz game, but mostly catching up with Brandon and getting a lesson on iphone applications :)
Playing Dress-up on more than one occasion, especially our entertaining 31c scoop night at Baskin Robins dressed in full Indian/Bengali regalia - Saris, bindis, bangles and all!
Girl Talks.
Reuniting with Gabe after 10 years!
My first fly-fishing experience in Flaming Gorge with Mason and his brother, despite the blizzard!
Annual visit to Red Butte Gardens and the addition of a secluded river walk.
A Bees double-header with Steph and the infamous Travis.
Dinner with Natalie and Drinks with Alex.
My first round of frisbee golf.
Introducing Brandon to Letterboxing and inventing a new game, 'Shuffle-Golf', on a green with a view, nearing midnight.
Seeing Steele.

Oregon

Spending more time with my good friends, Dan, Nikki, Dave, Lauren, Adam and Kate.
Seeing Thomas again as I joined the Titanic Tour for a couple weeks of 'hard' work :)
Alina's first Birthday party.
New friends, Bart, Dawn, and Dixie.
Introducing TK to letterboxing, learning to longboard, playing tennis, basketball, handball and bowling. Nalgene chocolate balls, coastal snapshots, daily blossoms and the magic wand ;)
The Sammamish River Trail and taking Dixie for a roll.

Washington

Spending quality time, like drives to waterfalls, with my parents.
Playing catch in the sunshine and chatting about life with my dad.
Rootbeer floats and washing the car with my mom.
Dressing up for Jazz Night and seeing Laura several times.

As always, my heart goes out to all my friends. It has truly been so so nice to see you all and Im already looking forward to seeing you again. Next entry will be from the Country of Peru, my 33rd!

Top Tens

2009-04-12T22:14:00.002+05:30

Get ready for a bunch of lists! I've been asked by just about everyone I know, what it's like being back, what I miss, what I am doing now and for how long will I stay. I'm still waiting to hear about the job in Peru, but for now, after a few weeks in America, I've put together several lists for your (or my ;) enjoyment. In no particular order:

Top Ten Things I Miss About India:

Delicious Indian chai - anywhere, anytime
Being surrounded by women in elegant rainbow colored saris and salwar kamiz
Indian hospitality and of course my wonderful friends over there!
Indian food (especially samosas, parathas, dal, malai kofta, Sathi lassi, and a Gujarati Thali!)
Colorfully painted trucks and buses with funny words on the back and mini neon shrines inside
Rickshaw rides with Indian drivers on Indian roads
Random parades of people/kids/marching bands/floats/animals/lights etc
Cute Indian children saying hello, excited to practice their English and encouraged to shake my hand
The prices! Lodging and meals and books and clothes for under $3!
Last, but definitely not least, the Indian head wobble :)

Top Ten Things I Do NOT Miss About India:

The smell of urine randomly throughout town
Dodging blobs of chunky multicolored spittle
Neglected, begging children
Wasting so much plastic because you can't drink tap water
Incessant honking/jingling/beeping/blasting
My perpetually dirty feet
No toilet paper, squat toilets and bucket showers
"Hello!" Being shouted at me every other minute/Being aggressively pestered in the marketplaces
Being given wrong directions/information/time, usually in an effort to help, but often with an opposite effect
Last and definitely most annoying, throwing of garbage on the ground

Top Ten Things That I Have Enjoyed About Being Back In America:

Reuniting with so many marvelous friends
Spending time with my family
Being in a "home" that is somewhat mine
Meat, cheese and spiked hot cocoa :)
Going for jogs and starting to get back into shape
My extra soft bed with it's electric blanket
Feeling 100% clean
Getting out of a backpack
Change of clothes, especially my favorite hoody!
Driving!

Top Ten Places That I Went In India:

Leh, Ladakh
McLeod Ganj, Himachal Pradesh
Manali, Himachal Pradesh
Amritsar, Punjab
Taj Mahal, Agra, Uttar Pradesh
Pushkar, Rajasthan
Bundi, Rajasthan
Orcha, Madhya Pradesh
Mumbai, Maharashtra
Hampi, Karnataka

Top Ten Experiences While In India:

Indian festivals (I couldn't narrow them down) Diwali, Uttarayan, Holi etc.
Participating in an Indian wedding
Riding camels in the Rajasthan
Cross-country train rides
The Pakistan border guard ceremony at Atari
Attending a reading by the Dalai Lama and a Tibetan-in-exile protest
Riding bikes down from the world's highest motorable pass (Khardung La, 5359m)
Yatra season in Haridwar, Uttarakhand
Being in a Bollywood Movie
Participating in Rakhi, being interviewed, filmed, and on the 9 o'clock news

Phew! I've got lists galore, but I'll stop there for now :) I want to say a big THANKS to Caroline for visiting last week and Laura for having us over! I had so much fun with you two girls and look forward to our next reunion - PWoo! I am incredibly thrilled to be heading to Utah this week to see even MORE of my favorite people in the world. What a lucky girl I am!

Back! (for now)

2009-04-03T04:42:00.012+05:30

I'm back! Back in the USofA. After ten months in sunny India and SE Asia, I've returned to the cold and rainy Pacific North West. My natural body temperature has always been a little lower than the average Joe, but I really think that by missing winter, my central heating put itself into hibernation until next fall. I simply cannot get warm!

My last few weeks in India were fantastic. I returned to Bundi for a third time. As I walked the streets, people recognized me and invited me in for chai. I spent time with my Indian family. One night, a pregnant woman and several of her female family and friends were over since she was close to labor and Rupa (my Indian mother) is a nurse. The power kept flickering on and off so candles were lit. We watched bits and pieces of a children comedians show - these kids were so funny, I was laughing out loud despite not understanding a word! Suddenly, Rupa emerged with a sari in hand and told me I needed to practice my sari wrapping skills. I proceeded to learn a couple different styles and then repeated the process several times, with all eyes on me until they were satisfied. I felt as though I was being initiated. Then Rupa asked me to teach them salsa dancing and thus, in the intermittent dim and bright lighting, with the help of my mini iPod speakers, I taught (and entertained) women in saris how to swivel their hips and spin with attitude :).

Back in Pushkar, I was unsuccessful in my attempt to surprise my friends and they all received me with open arms. It was so nice to be in familiar places with familiar friendly faces for a change. I had planned my visit to coincide with my last big Indian festival, Holi, a two day festival of light and color. The first day is celebrated with controlled fires in the streets and the first color being gently spread on eachother cheeks and hair. The second day (more often than not, after profuse drinking the night before), the real debauchery begins! Giant bags of rainbow powders and huge waterguns filled with colored water are produced. Starting in the early morning people, mostly men, gather in the market places and neighborhood parks to paint eachother as thoroughly and in as many colors as possible. Groups of men came to the hotel to entice the occupants out into the fray and I was warned not to go to the market since an unfortunate activity, sadly becoming a tradition, is the drunk men tearing off the clothes of anyone they can get their hands on (naïve female tourists being the most popular victims).

Holi is the one day in the entire Indian year in which the police look the other way, conservative values get blindfolds and Indians try to get all of their lust, passion, practical joking and curiosity out of their systems. The idea behind it though, covering everyone of various shades of white to brown to black, head to toe like an artists pallet, so that at the end of the day we all look the same, is a really attractive idea to me and I wish we had a similar holiday in the States! Of course, that extends into the next several days where everyone is various shades of pink since that's the color that seems to dye the skin (even after scrubbing in the pool and 5 showers!).

I did try to sneak down towards the marketplace in order to get some shots, you know me, despite the warnings. I thought I would be able to avoid the worst of the revelers. To my great disappointment, before getting even two minutes away from my hotel, I was approached by three boys in their twenties, colored powder in hand and while two of then spread it on my arms, the third reached as far down my shirt as he could before I reared back and walloped him across the face. They scurried off and although I was glad I got in a sound slap, they had ruined my optimism and I decided that as a single girl, with a camera to protect, perhaps I should not attempt the marketplace after all (as a side note, several girls did go down later with several of the guys, trusting they would be safe in a group. They were sadly mistaken. Two of the girls shirts were ripped open and others were fondled... such a shame that they ruin what could be a wonderful festival!).

I spent the rest of the day with my friends, playfully using eachother for canvases and then jumping in the pool so that the turquoise blue turned a delicate shade of lilac. Another sad farewell set me on my last overnight bus ride to Delhi. I bought an extra bag to carry my gifts and souvenirs and before I could drink one last chai, I was on my nearly 30 hour set of flights to the good ol' PNW. To those of you who read this, a BIG hug to all my lovely Indian friends! I miss you!

...

So what now? Well, I just finished reunioning with some of my favorite people in the world! First, my dear friend Fergus made his way to Washington to visit me, in this our fourth country together. I had a wonderful time showing him around Mt. Vernon, Anacortes, Portland, Cannon Beach and Seattle. We hiked, took pictures (including just a couple jumping shots ;), strolled markets, met some of my friends for delicious home cooked American food (Thanks Kate) and hilarious rounds of catchphrase (where Fergus earned a new nickname). We "caught a movie" and crashed at Dan and Nikki's (Thanks loves!), pot-lucked with some of my favorite Seattlites, toured the underground and he ate his first turkey bacon, American Burger, Krispy Kreme doughnut, Beef Jerky, Crackerjacks AND bacon icecream (God bless America hehe - and chef Niels)! Plus his first Baseball game (which I was quite pleased did not bore him to pieces :). So glad you could visit Fergus, I had a brilliant time, although the bruises from slugbug (not beetlebuggy) /yellowcar /minipunch are still healing, and I look forward to our next adventure!

Immediately back down in Oregon, I got to meet the newest addition to the pacific circle, little Violet Ross and chat with Angie, Annie and Katherine. I joined Dave and Lauren for dinner and my first encounter with Rock Band! And then again for a night of good food (cheers Nikki!), catchphrase and once the 6 bottles of wine kicked in, crazy camera antics! Ahhhh, I am absolutely in love with my friends!

Now, it's on to being productive, getting organized, getting a job (I've applied for a job in Peru this summer), looking forward to Caroline's visit next week and then my trip to Utah the week after that! Full schedule, but if anyone else wants to get together while I'm in the States, just let me know! :)

A Rare Valley

2009-02-21T21:25:00.021+05:30

I've recently emerged from a rare valley in two senses of the word. I mentioned in the last entry that I would be visiting Hampi, a small town in a magical boulder-strewn landscape of banana plantations, freckled with more ruins, (a misnomer, as most were in surprisingly good shape) and temples still in use (more than 550 monuments), than I could have possibly explored in the measly three days that I was there.

I also found myself in a metaphorical valley, which even now I find hard to describe. Everything within me had sunk. My motivation was down, my spirit of adventure was down, my excitement of the next place, the next discovery, the next friend, were all just down.

Since my return to India, a yearning had been growing in my soul. Unidentifiable until a few weeks ago, but nonetheless heavy and concerning. Most of my blog entries and corespondances with friends and family have been filled with optimism and facination for everything around me, but an enigmatic feeling was demanding my attention and if I am to be entirely forthcoming, I thought I ought to share some of this with you :).

I finally realized that I needed peace. Yes, world peace would be nice, but I'm not running for Miss America. Inner peace is also somewhere on the list but what I needed is far less esoteric. I needed a little peace of mind and even more pressing, peace and quiet in my ears! Ha, having been in India for more than 8 months and most of that time spent on the move, various modes of transportation, friends houses, guesthouses, tents, waiting rooms, terminal platforms etc with no place to call my own. Without checkout times, someone waiting for me, time tables to review or tickets to book. No place absent from rickshaw touts or 'tour guides' or men shouting at you to follow them to a hotel for a commision, or every single product in their 5x10ft corner stall or did I mention a lovely Pashmina, "100% madam, cheap and best, I give you good price, first sale of the day, my good luck, please madam, looking is free, only look!". If I had a rupee for everytime someone hollared "Hello!" at me, not to me, at me, I could fund my trip. I would even take 50 paise for each horn honk/beep/blast/jingle and I would be a millionaire several times over - in USD. It has not mattered where I am; there is never a moment free of animal sounds, human sounds, traffic sounds, industrial sounds - noise. It is no wonder that this is the country that created yoga and meditation, where sadhus wander in search of enlightenment and hermits seek caves to escape the chaos (although I have my own theory of a natural magnetism that has developed in Indians. They seem to gravitate to each other, preferring to be shoulder to shoulder in an empty room than the personal bubble other societies deem necessary. What is the opposite of claustrophobia?)

All of this had been a weight increasing gradually despite the exciting day-to-day activities and warm, generous company. I felt as if I had no goal. That 2009 started aimlessly and question marks ahead were amassing faster than I could organize them. Travel, job, projects, relationships, potential relationships... I missed spending time with someone that actually knew me. Someone that understood me and shared more that a common travel schedule. You know, I missed being around my close friends. I, as shocking as it sounds even to me, needed some continuity in my life for a change.

One event suddenly accelerated the crescendo. With all of this and more, swirling viciously around in my head, a very dear friend of mine... decided I was no longer a dear friend of theirs. Saving you all the melodrama of heartache, I shall just say this came at a most inopportune time and indeed, I still feel a profound loss.

I battled each night with my inherent cheerfulness, sense of adventure and opportunity against this disconcerting angst and confusion.

My schedule had changed several times due to the cancellation of the wedding and twice the cancellation of a friend’s visit (and subsequent rescheduling) which only exacerbated the feeling of constant flux. With more time on my hands than expected, I talked myself into one last jaunt south to see Hampi, which I had wanted to see since the beginning of my trip, before I retreated north to Delhi. Thank Ganesh that I did, for it was in Hampi that I reached a stopping point in my decent, found peace however brief and could finally look up to see a little clarity versus the miasmic blur below.

Arriving in Hampi, I could tell it was absolutely my kind of place. Only one tenth of the sites are protected by the World Heritage Organization, so one could easily play Indian Jones and explore entire ancient complexes all alone. Perfect.

The first day, after checking out the main temple, I absconded to a hillock just outside town. Incredibly impressed with the sheer number of ruins, the explorer in me resurfaced. Around noon, I spotted a tiny temple of sorts, really just four granite pillars with a roof perched atop a huge pile of boulders. It looked difficult to reach, which not only appealed to my competitive side but also meant few others would be around. I set my compass.

It took me quite a while to find a viable way up and about half way there, hopping and climbing from rock to rock, I was stopped in my tracks by a family of monkeys. About 15-20 of them I would say, napping together, arms wrapped around each other. SO sweet! They paid me no attention while I snapped a few pictures until I suddenly noticed, having been glued to my camera lense, that one was inches away from my feet! Big curious eyes shone up at me and as I stepped backwards, several more of the younger monkeys gathered near. Instantly I realized I was on a tiny rock island and if the monkeys decided I was invading their grounds, I would be in trouble. With no loose rocks at my feet, the only thing I had to look like a weapon, was my wallet, Ha! I raised it as if to throw and they shrunk back but the longer that we stood there staring at each other, the more I realized they were not threatening me, they were purely curious. Soon, I allowed them to circle my feet, pinch my toes as if feeling the texture of the skin and pull at the elastic on my sandals. They were especially curious about my camera, their reflection in the lense and the flash. Ah, it was truly a rare interaction with animals in the wild, each demonstrating a distinct personality! I was enamoured by them. Eventually though, I slipped past them and continued up to my spot.
Secluded, yet in full view of the sunshine, the highest point in the area, with a marvellous view, I had been drawn here for a reason. I spent the next 4 hours here. Restless Thoughts kept cropping up, 'I should get a move on, wasting time, so much to explore', 'maybe I should go get a bite to eat or a bottle of water or check my email...’ I actually had to convince myself to stop moving. Stop thinking of things to fill the time and for once, just be. Slowly the feelings and ruminations that had settled like dust on my heart began to be swept up. In the relative quiet (though not silence), I allowed myself to do a little early spring cleaning :). I meditated, I sun bathed, I breathed, I even got up and danced to my ipod - it felt as though I was shooting a cheesy music video in this very unique setting :). And I smiled. I had reached a couple epiphanies and could finally start climbing back up (or literally back down since the sun was setting).

The next day I walked in a different direction, this time along a beautiful little river, temples nestled along the banks, villagers doing laundry and selling fresh fruit. I ventured upon a forgotten temple away from the rest and stepped inside. Taking my shoes off to feel the cool stone, the history beneath my feet. I walked through four or five doorways until I was in the inner sanctum sanctorum where the light was limited to a shaft above and glowed iridescently just like in a movie. And lo, silence! My ears rang, confused as they were, in the absence of sound. Absolute silence. The aura of sanctity and peace calmed my ears and soon, save for a bird chirp here and there, I could hear myself...

I wish I could bottle that place and carry it with me wherever I went, but it served it's purpose. I found it when I most needed it and it was like shutting down your system when it's on the fritz and rebooting. Starting fresh. It felt good.

On my last day, I had the morning to hike a little more, buy some fresh bananas and meet up with a friend of mine from Mumbai who had just arrived before I grabbed a bus to Goa, India's hippie coast. I spent several days on the beach in a small hut with a bunch of jolly Brits, swimming, hiking, watching movies, spotting dolphins, eating delicious shark and shopping at the famous flea market. Next stop was Pune for a night with a local chap to show me around, then Valentines Day spent on a 30hour train ride in which I boarded the wrong train to Delhi, but as I've been the recipient of many a wonderful Indian twists, a family including two boys around 20yrs old, sacrificed one of their berths for me and even bought me chocolate cake, wishing me a Happy Vday - what sweethearts! Yes, I was indeed on my way up :)

"India has a way of confounding you and still making you laugh about it." I read recently in the book, In Spite of the Gods. So true. I am now back in Delhi with my Austrian friends at their little oasis awaiting my friend's arrival on the 24th, which should serve to further clarify several pressing matters. After that, I have just a couple weeks before I board a jet plane back to the good ol' USofA! I am busy making plans to see a few friends, pick up a few gifts and enjoy a few of my favorite aspects of India before I leave. The rickshaw ride to the house, whizzing through traffic, the driver stopping for pan (an addictive minty concoction wrapped in a leaf, chewed for seemingly hours and requiring the repetetive ejection of red juice), even the beeping had become endearing again and I know I will sorely miss it.

Mumbai Mania

2009-02-07T09:52:00.004+05:30

Phew! I am sure falling behind on my updates! At the risk of omitting certain facts and observations, let me instead summarize the exciting, glamorous and educational chaos that was Mumbai.

First let me say I have become a huge fan of the website www.couchsurfing.com, which in March, will reach it's one millionth member (could be you)! I have used it 3 times now with resounding results! Each time, I met brilliant people that not only offered me a place to stay, a home being so much better than a rundown lonely guesthouse, but also shared unique perspectives on their respective hometowns and provided excellent company out in the nightclubs/pubs, camping, festivals, beaches and eyeopening tours like my "slumdog tour" on motorbike. A big thanks to all those I met through the site, through friends of friends and special thanks goes to Jayant, Mahesh, Rushank, and Sanu!

Mumbai, like the rest of India is a city full of contrast. I feel I overuse that word, but nothing is more true. That being said, Mumbai is extremely unique in it's modernity and style. I had the chance to see Slumdog Millionaire while I was in Ahmedabad (before it came out ;) and then again in the theatre in Mumbai. I loved it and highly recommend it although, the same cannot be said of my Mumbaiker friends, most of whom feel it sets Mumbai in an undeserving negative light. If you understand the film is just one fictional story, and not meant to be a documentary, then it is hard not to appreciate the score, the cinematography and the screenplay - go see it for yourself and tell me what you think! My friend Steve said that the sheer enthusiasm for life was what shone through and it made him want to come here - Yes! :)

Rushank, one outspoken Mumbaiker made it a goal to take me on a tour of his Mumbai vs Slumdog's Mumbai. I got to see all of the places that they filmed as well as his favorite parts of the city (which I had to buy a pair of heeled shoes for as my backpacker garb just wouldn't do ;). It was one of my favorite days in the city!

Many of my 12 days in Mumbai were spent wandering various parts of the massive city. Eating the local specialty of Bhel Puri on Juhu beach, visiting the Iscon temple and the quiet national forest for a long walk to some ancient caves, more caves on elephanta island, being impressed by the beautiful architecture of the Colaba area including the imposing Victoria Train Station, Taj Mahal Hotel and India Gate, finding a cafe that served a surprisingly tasty Washington Apple soup(!) and one day trip out to the secluded Khim beach with a random mix of travelers. The nights were not any less exciting!

One of the highlights of course, for those of you that noticed my status updates on facebook, was my taste of the bollywood scene! I absolutely adore the movies that I have seen since I have been here in India, Om Shanti Om being my favorite! I made it a goal to be an extra in one while I was in town, since I heard that they are often looking for foreigners. My luck held and I was approached by an agent my third day in town. It took a while for the right time to work out, but eventually I was in one TV series (where myself and another white girl, the token foreigners in an episode set in Canada, had to wear skimpy little outfits as opposed to the normal jeans and jackets of the other girls - typical) and two movies (London Dreams with the mega-star Salman Khan, yes I even got to shake his hand haha and Phir which starred a lesser known actor but was actually a lot more fun to shoot)!

Each of the movie shoots were about 12 hours long, most of which we waited and waited and waited. The food was good though, we were well taken care of with mineral water and fresh chai and for the second movie, I even got hair and makeup and costume! All the glamour you could expect for being an extra :). I hope to get pics up soon although the computers have not been very friendly towards uploads lately!

On my last night, a couple friends took me to a viewpoint to get a shot of the city. We sat around and chatted for a bit until a "tourist police" jeep rolled up and wanted to know what we were doing. We most certainly looked like hooligans up to no good so I am sure they were just doing their job. A 'discussion' took place between my friends and the 'authorities' which hovered around a) some document my friend did not have with him, I think an auto registration? and b) what a foreign girl was doing alone with two boys this late at night (nearing midnight). After some time, a (monetary) agreement was made and the police were on their way. Lovely impression to leave on a tourist when my poor friends were just trying to show me the good side of Mumbai!

One final highlight was an epic reunion. I have been in touch with a globetrotting friend of mine, Ivan, since we met in Germany in 2001. We met again in Austria in 2002, but since then, email and now facebook have been our only means to track each other all the while with hopes that our paths may cross again. And so they have! We were able to meet for a short 2 hours in a gorgeous rooftop restaurant with a sparkling view of the sun setting over the Indian Ocean since he happened to be here on business! This after 7 years! I love it :)

That night, I waved a wistful goodbye to Mumbai and arrived the next morning in Aurangabad, ready to explore 2nd century BC caves in the nearby towns of Ajanta and Ellora. I will unfortunately do them a great disservice by not going into detail, but they were both magnificent sites, chock full of incredible carvings, stone temples, sculptures and unbelievably well preserved paintings! I even saw the Bibi Ka Muqbara, nicknamed the "Baby Taj" for obvious reasons!

I've since been to Hampi, a truly magical place and will hopefully get that update, along with pics on here soon!

Kites, Cameras, Camping!

2009-01-28T13:17:00.010+05:30

Uttarayan - The Kite Festival in Ahmedabad, India was a soaring success! Another big Thanks goes out to Ravi for convincing me to take that 39 hour (versus 40+ as I had expected. SO much better) train ride west - it was more than worth it!

Upon arrival in Ahmed, I took a quick bucket shower (although I needed a little more ;) and joined a group of locals and two Russian girls, Nastia and Sveta, on a small trip into town. They, like me, had been coaxed into coming west by Ravi and we quickly became friends. The next day, the three of us took an audio guided tour around town, visiting some of the major sites and markets. Small streets teemed with people not only buying their usual items, but also searching for the sharpest string (who would have thought string should ever be sharp?), multicolored and neatly spun, the freshest snacks of toasted and roasted goodies and of course the best kites, precisely shaped. That evening, we attended Alpesh's Birthday, which in proper Indian style, had a DJ, plenty of dancing and delicious home cooked food (and Gujarati dishes became one of my favorite Indian foods)!

On day one of the festival, the three of us foreigners arrived at the house around 11am, much much too late for the serious kite flyers of Ahmedabad, some of whom started as early as 4am! Friends and family sat around the living room stringing hundreds of kites (which is an art we learned) and soon enough we were up on the rooftop with millions of others ready to take to the skies. We all tried our hand at kite flying - kite fighting is quite a bit more advanced for a beginner like me and I am sad to say I lost every time! I was simply in awe of the scene and could barely put my camera down! After a brief lunch break, the flying resumed.

Every telephone and electrical wire were decorated in brightly colored tissue tatters and shards of wicker. Tens of thousands of fluttering rainbow manta rays, hopes and joys, slicing through the air, rising and falling, battling for space, for supremacy, rooftops suddenly bursting into raucous cheers of victory, bonding of generations, of neighbors and even of cultures - everyone wanted a chance to teach us! Kites littered the roof, patiently waiting their turn to soar. As the day progressed, food and freshly brewed chai appeared, music intensified and came from more and more directions, fervor grew and above all the cacophony, the city's huge smile could be heard.

The sun set slowly, relishing the sight of the polka-dotted sky and before the last rays dropped below the horizon, the fireworks began. Again, unlike regular fireworks displays, there was no one focus point. All around us, bursts of light and sound and color echoed the excitement of the day and the whole city partied into the night. And the BEST thing about the festival? We got to do it all over again the next day!! Day two brought even more serious kite-fights, everyone using up the rest of their kites in friendly competition. I was determined to get mine up and away on my own and somewhat managed that goal before another swooped in and cut me. I even conducted a little salsa lesson in the afternoon! The locals we met, besides opening their homes, serving us tasty food and teaching us about everything, were just the most friendly and fun people to spend the day with! My heartfelt thanks goes to Alpesh, Anshu, Dhara, Hiral, Kushal, Veeral, and all the rest of the gang for making us feel so welcome!

The next day, we did a little more sight-seeing including a visit to Ghandi's Ashram and ate the best thali (Gujarati) that I have ever had. In the evening, Anshu and Alpesh (professional photographers), gave me the honor of a photoshoot in Indian traditional dress! I love photography and I love dressing up so what more could I ask for!! I had a lot of fun, but I also learned a couple of things: 1) I am not a natural model and much more comfortable behind the camera! 2) As much as I would like to believe otherwise, when it takes nearly an hour to make the sari look right on you (including taping jewelry to your ears since you are the only female in India without piercings), I doubt I have a drop of Indian blood in me! :)

Early the next morning, about 20 of us met to go camping. Most were on motorbikes as we sped off to the countryside, away from the noise and pollution of the city. I watched the swish and swoops of skirts and saris pass by as if the gods looked down upon the dull greys, greens and browns, cement and bricks and grabbed a paintbrush to say "Let there be life. Let there be color!" We reached the peaceful Polo Retreat with 15th century ruins, a quiet river and a couple small hills to climb in time for lunch from an open flame. During the course of the day, we cooled off in a pond, played catch and frisbee, (the foreigners) signed autographs for a group of sweet school children, very excited for the chance to practice their english and then came the campfire!

Who of us has not stared into a fire and become lost in flickering thought? I certainly appreciate that aspect of American culture - the good ol' camp-fire (unfortunately no s'mores out here)! We did however procure a couple bottles of inebriant, once again I find myself embroiled in illegal activity, for Gujarat is a dry state and mostly vegetarian. We played a form of charades, shared fireside banter and later in the night even listened to a few hindi limericks and sang our favorite Bollywood tunes! A fantastic day all together, we savored the last bits of warmth, before settling into sleep. Morning called us to the top of a hill for a 5 hour hike - something else I have really missed lately and then we were back on the bikes heading south.

I decided at the last minute to continue on to Mumbai from there, so my friends helped me get on the right bus and I was off! I've been here over a week now and had quite a few adventures - that update to come soon (hopefully)!

An epic journey ahead

2009-01-10T11:33:00.010+05:30

2009 has begun just as I would like it to - flights, buses, rickshaws, cars and motorbikes! Tonight, I can add trains to that list since I will be on the looongest ride of my life - 40+ hours!! I have been convinced by a new friend of mine, Ravi, to attend a huge Kite Festival in Ahmedabad which is on the opposite side of the country. He has promised crowded skies of swooping and slicing kites with glass lines, kids chasing in the streets and every rooftop full of celebrants, good food and music... how could I resist?? Plus a big group is going camping afterwards near some old Mughal ruins - bonus! :)

My layover in Dhaka was once again eventful,

but this time, instead of chatting with two strangers, I got to see one of my favorite people in the whole world - Alisa! We spent a ridiculously short 24hours catching up, musing, analyzing, laughing, exploring, shopping and thankful for this incredible opportunity to see eachother in Bangladesh of all places! Alisa even got so excited, she decided to play an impromptu game of hide-n-seek :) Ahh, that's my Lis! I hope for many many more random meet-ups like this!

Wish me luck with this grand journey (on the rails/in life :) and I will try to update you all after the festival!

**As per Ravi's comment, Yes, once I arrived, I realized the ruins were actually beautiful temples and cenotaphs ruined not built by the Mughals!

Year in Review (and what a year!)

2009-01-03T14:12:00.022+05:30

Back in Bangkok for my first flight of 2009 and I thought I'd write a little summary of 2008 in recognition of what was one of the best years of my life!

2008 started off in the company of my dear Kodak Kids in Sunny California during the Rose Parade. We rang in the new year properly with champagne, good food and dancing and then all got up early for a long days work. Little did we know, that our upcoming 'month off' would actually set us free of Kodak Inspiration and on a hunt for the next. I spent half of January with my wonderful friends Kev, Keith, Crafton, Rhi, and new friends Sarah, Pat and Lu on the snowy slopes of Eagle and Vale, Colorado facing below freezing temperatures, snowboarding crystal powders and tromping up to lakes of ice on snowshoes. The hottub and spiked hot chocolate are also not to be forgotten!

The second half of the month and into February, I had the luxury of adding 3 new countries to my list and reuniting with more wonderful people. First, I met me Mom in Ireland (said with an Irish accent ;) and we toured around the cold, grey, but still bonnie green countryside. We also did a wee bit of site-seeing in England including stonehenge and London and munching on our first authentic 'fish-n-chips'. Next stop was the Netherlands, picked up by my dear friend Sebastiaan who took his job of official Dutch tour guide seriously. One week was hardly enough, but I saw more than I could have expected, including the famed windmills, Gouda, Amsterdam and his lovely parents (who make the best pancakes in Holland). I even got in some club dancing with his friends and a night of salsa as well! Finally, I flew back to the UK for a crazy mixed-up pick-up by my buddies Fergus and Kev. I spent one splendid week in their company, bowling, museuming, running, dancing, eating, staying up past midnight to watch THE game (the SuperBowl for my non-American readers ;) and learning more than necessary about Rugby. A truly disheartening farewell with wishes given in pence and revolving door goodbyes sent me on my return to the states to figure out what next.

One insane string of flights (London-Frankfurt-Atlanta-Daytona-Atlanta-LA-Seattle) brought me safely back into WA to see my parents and I even had time for a Tuesday Pot-Luck Dinner with some of my favorite people in Seattle (shout out to Craig, Neils and Brandon!) before my luck held true and a friend of mine hired me for a job beginning the following week. I barely had time to repack my bags before I was on my way to the Big Easy, New Orleans, Louisiana! I worked as a guide for Rustic Pathways assisting HS Students in their quest to volunteer their spring break helping residents and victims of Hurricane Katrina. We built houses, restored wetlands, cleaned neighborhoods and gave our time to the foodbank. It was a fantastic experience and the absolutely incredible music scene of NOLA was the icing on the cake! A HUGE Thank you is owed to my friend Mike and my sbrpnola08 girls, Lauren and Deanna! The three of us had a brilliant time once the work was over road-tripping parts of LA, AL, MS and FL!

During the 6 weeks in N'awlins, I applied and got a position with Rustic in India, which I had wanted to see for years. The month of May was a month of reunions seeing long lost friends in Seattle, Arlington, Portland, Hillsboro and good ol' Salt Lake city. The best part was seeing 3 new arrivals (I think I had about 6 or 7 births announced this year!), the little ones of my friends are just the cutest babies in the whole world!! :)

Half way through the year on June 1st, I landed half way around the world in New Delhi, India. Met by two of my newest friends and co-workers, Scott and Shira, I ventured into the country I would spend most of the next 10 months of my life. The rest of the Rustic Staff, Kalsang, Eric, Tina, Braden and Dalas trained hard in Mcleod Ganj (home of the Dalai lama) before being joined by our darling students for weeks of volunteer work with Tibetan refugees (building a basketball court, english conversation, road repair, tree planting and cultural experiences). It was wonderful working with these kids and learning alongside them. Dealing with sickness abroad is not easy when it comes to yourself, but looking after 18 ducklings is much more difficult! Time flew and before I knew it, the yoga and mud-digging and meditaion and momo making and Tibetan dance parties were over and I was off on my backpacking India adventure!

Tina joined me on an epic trip to Amritsar and the Pakistan border before we parted ways and I journeyed up north. In summary, Manali was a calm little mountain town but ladakh/kashmir (not to mention the 20-24 hour bus trip there and back) was strikingly beautiful! I have never been someplace where the sky is so blue and the people so warm. My birthday adventure of bike riding down from the worlds highest motorable pass was brilliant with two new travel-buddies Emma and Ange and the monasteries and stupas some of the most impressive buildings I have ever seen!

Emma and I returned to a normal elevation for a true backpacking schedule of Manali-Shimla-Chandigar-Haridwar-Rishikesh where she stopped off for some yoga and beetles nostalgia whereas I met up with Austrian friends of mine that I had known in Athens, but now live in Delhi. I cleaned up, relaxed and hit the road again with Tina and Shira to Jaipur, one last fling before we parted ways (yet another sad farewell) and I continued on a tour of Rajasthan, one of Indias most colorful states.

Its hard to summarize Rajasthan, but Jaipur (beautiful fort and palaces), Jodhpur (another impressive fort and my first Indian wedding), Jaisalmer (camel jockeying and desert fireworks), Mt. Abu (cool lake and ice cream), Chittorgarh (Asias largest fort at 700 acres and royal hospitality), Pushkar (2 weeks of swimming, learning Hindi, hiking to temples and good friends) and finally Bundi (perhaps my favorite place in India, spending 3 weeks with my adoptive Indian family, dressing up in a sari and even being on the 9pm news!).

A second reunion with my dear friend Sebastiaan, followed by a month through Agra (the majestic Taj Mahal), Orchha (a secret Indian garden), Kajuraho (Kama Sutra Temples), Varanassi (Indias most sacred city for Diwali, Indias most popular festival) and into Nepal for Himalayan trekking and site-seeing! Sebas and I left eachothers side from Darjeeling and I had just over a week to spend in Calcutta before I flew to Thailand (with an eventful 25hour layover in Dhaka).

Next up was a family reunion with my parents, a little island hopping in Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia, a reunion with Ange and meeting some of her great friends in Bangkok. Finally, I spontaneously flew up to Chiang Mai and happened to meet a couple fantastic Indian/Nepalis that I spent my Christmas and New Years with... Without saying too much, there is possible romance ahead in 2009 - yes, this coming from the perpetually single and on-the-move-Jessie. Only time can tell!

2008 saw me in 9 new countries (31 total now with Bangladesh to be 32), 10 states, 31 flights, 4 road-trips, reuniting with a couple dozen of the most fantastic friends a girl could have and more memories than I could possibly keep straight if it wasnt for my camera, journal, blog and facebook ;). My love goes out to all those that read this (and onto those who dont as well :) and my only wish is that 2009 is even better for us all (which will be quite the feat)!!!

Island Hopping

2008-12-20T09:24:00.006+05:30

This month I have added 4 countries to my list and spent the majority of my time on islands, which is out of the ordinary for me. I am currently at the Koh Samui airport, waiting for my 31st and final (I think!) flight of the year to Chiang Mai - back to the mainland!

I was finally able to meet up with my parents on the island nation of Singapore. It truly is one of the cleanest big cities that I have ever been to and the people are proud of it! I used the very easy metro system to get into town and met my parents sitting at a cafe outside their hotel - what a relief it was to see them after all the shuffling around! Big hugs all around :).

They had already booked us a trip over to Bali, Indonesia since although Singapore may be a shoppers heaven (I've never seen so many shopping malls!) it did not have much character. We did however visit little India and my first meal shared with my parents was introducing them to some of my favorites acquired in the 6 months that I was there.

The resort in Bali was the nicest place I have ever stayed. We had a little villa near the gorgeous pool (including waterfalls, cave poolside bar and personal jacuzzi seats). A games area with pool, foosball, darts and pingpong was fun and to spite the heat outside, our place was a refrigerator, well stocked with fresh fruit and water. My favorite part was the outdoor shower that was a fantastic experience the one night that it rained (the hot and cold water combining to make a most relaxing clean! We feasted on Balinese Barbecue and watched golden dancers twist and weave to the eery bells and flutes of local music. We drove through local artisan villages to visit silversmiths and woodcarvers and ate another delicious meal with a view of the islands main volcano. On our last day, we snorkeled in the reef and fed the fish with bread. They ate right out of our hands and I absolutely loved it! That was the pinacle of the trip for me - there in the open water with both of my wonderful parents feeding exotic fish an afternoon lunch :). We also stopped on Turtle Island and fed sea turtles, held a couple exotic birds and I even played with the cutest bat you've ever seen and a giant snake!

We returned to Singapore for some shopping and a night safari which was quite fun. I got to try out a therapy that is banned in the states by putting my feet into an aquarium full of nibble fish that feel like little vibrations and suction eating your dead skin cells. Your feet emerge smooth as can be! Very cool. It was a sad goodbye when I boarded my next flight to Phuket, Thailand, but it made my holidays complete. This is my first Christmas away from home and spending time with my parents was much needed!! I love you Mom and Dad!

I met a few friends on Phuket island for Mandy's Birthday. Another Thai paradise, we stayed in the magnificent Indigo Pearl resort (Thank You Kerry!) and with the theme of a tin mine that used to exist there, the attention to detail was incredible. With 3 pools, 2 of which were adults only infinty pools and shops, several restaurants and bars, big grassy areas to lounge on and right across from the beach, you couldn't ask for much more. We had a great time lighting lanterns at night, sending our wishes into the starry skies and playing on the beach. We snorkeled in even clearer water than Bali and this time the fish favorite was bananas - I must have fed thousands! They crowded in, an inch from my face, nipping anything they could get close to, I even held one by its tail! Ha, brilliant.

Next stop, Kerry and I hopped a ferry over to PhiPhi Island, which although beautiful as well, was a bit overdeveloped and being squashed by construction everywhere. Accommodation was expensive, but we tracked down a decent place through the throngs of beach clad vacationers. Unfortunately, something came up back in Bangkok and Kerry had to leave the next day so I made my own plans to move on as well to Krabi, famous for its limestone cliff climbing. Before I left however, I watched the local women, swathed in Thai batik sarongs, taking advantage of the receding tide, sift through stones and naked coral for hidden crabs and enjoyed a Singapore Sling (the real Sling from the famed Raffles Hotel cost about $23!!) while catching up on my journal. In the evening, I had one of the best massages of my life - a traditional Thai massage, stretching me like salt water taffy! The next morning, with a breakfast of fresh fruit, the tide having come back, I walked along the waters edge strewn with boulders carved in the seas image, undulating and lapping at the land. I couldn't resist getting in the water once more but soon enough it was time to go.

Alone again, I hadn't figured out my direction from Krabi just yet, when a group of guys asked if I wanted to share a taxi into town. They had a flight to Koh Samui (where my parents and I had originally planned on going) and at $40, I decided to join them. I sacrificed the rock climbing for a good deal on a flight and the next day I found myself on island #5. The group split since most of them were looking for a wild and crazy beach to party all night on and I was looking for something a little more quiet. Nick, from London and I found some beach bungalows on a splendid little beach on the north side of the island. Ahh to be lulled to sleep every night by the sound of waves! :) Nick was great company and he also introduced me to the Heros TV series which was our nightly entertainment - I was hooked! We both tried windsurfing for the first time, SO much fun and NOT as easy as it looks! I also sprung for yet another massage and this was my new BEST! In a cute little open air hut with sheer curtains and a mere 5 meters from the rolling waves. The sensation of Tiger Balm simultaneously heating while the sea breeze cooled was intense. A floral scented cold compress on my eyes and face, she actually walked on my back and rolled me up onto her knees, suspending me and stretching me in the air! Wow, if only I had that every week!

Once Nick left to meet his friend on Koh Tao, I hired a motorbike (about $5 for 24hrs!) to explore the rest of the island. Dotted with numerous elaborate golden temples, shimmering with mirror work and watched over by giant Buddhas. I drove through palm plantations, hiked up dirt tracks looking for good view/picture points, bought more succulent fruits along the way and raced down the roads, topping out at a whopping 70k/hr, the winds narrowing my eyes and whipping my ponytail, my helmet slipping down making me feel like a super hero on vacation :). Ahh, I love the freedom of a motorbike! The next morning, I woke up early to visit one more site, I had the "Big Buddha" all to myself and a fantastic view of the island. !!!

Now, back in the mainland, I am looking forward to exploring Chiang Mai. I have no idea where I will be for Christmas... wish me luck on finding a suitable place to celebrate!

Bali Bound!

2008-12-03T20:54:00.003+05:30

Well, it looks like what I thought would be a nice relaxing holiday visit with my parents and then some exploration of Thailand has turned into nothing of the sort!

As I mentioned before, I narrowly missed the mob heading to the Bangkok airport and my parents were not so lucky. After waiting a few days to see if the situation would be ameliorated, my parents chose to redirect to Singapore since they had a limited window for their vacation. After nearly a week absorbing the comforts of my friends' gorgeous flat, getting manicured, pedicured and massaged, my hair cut and even joining in an evening of "footy" (soccer) and attending a marvelous Ball/All-night-dance-party (Huge THANK YOU to Ange and Kerry!!), I managed through sheer luck to get a ticket on the train heading south that was sold out for a week and off I went!

If I thought I was on easy street being in Thailand, coming from India, I was wrong. While things were definitely more comfortable, the first thing I was told as I borded the luxurious train, was that the rails were flooded and we would have to get off early and manage a bus from there. 16 hours brought me to the border region where I processed through customs into Maylasia and in another 10hours I rolled into the capital, Kuala Lumpur. Once again, my friends are AMAZING and Kerry helped me connect with Mandy who was more than happy to invite this stranger into her fabulous flat (with rooftop pool and sauna) for a good nights rest. I am truly blessed!

A series of emails with my parents found that flights from Singapore to KL were canceled with the reopening of the bkk airport since they want to keep it from over-crowding (?) so as a desperate attempt to finally reunite us, I have a flight there tomorrow and then all three of us, with any luck, wing our way to Bali for some much needed (my parents anyway) R&R& hopefully some Asian culture!

PS: This makes flight #28 and country #31!!!

Trouble in Thailand

2008-12-01T10:36:00.002+05:30

Many of you have been asking if I am alright with all this turmoil in Thailand so here is a quick update.

As I hopped in a taxi and directed it to my friends place, we zoomed down the highway towards town and I noticed what I thought was a parade going the opposite way. Flags awaving and car-fulls of people jammed the road. "What is that?" I pointed and the taxi driver casually answered, "The mob". "The mob? What mob?" He just smiled. I learned later that I had narrowly missed these anti-government protesters taking over of the airport, trapping thousands of passengers inside and stranding hundreds of thousands that were scheduled to leave in the coming days.

They say that an average of 30,000 people arrive at that airport every day and with that many people cancelling flights, hotels, tours, not shopping or eating out - not to mention the planes carrying food, mail and other products into and out of Thailand - this standoff is crippling. The trouble is, most of the yellow clad protesters (you wear red if you support the current government like highschool tug-of-war teams) are from the villages and are there just to boost the numbers. They are getting paid 500 a day to be there versus their average 100 baht income so why not? It's not hurting them at all! Most probably don't have any idea of the repercusions for their country. The government and military don't want to admit anything is really amiss and also want to avoid any violence so they continue to throw pebbles, ie not do anything that has any effect and life goes on as usual in the city.

Will there be a coup? No one knows. Will it get violent? The 'state of emergency' declared guarantees the military can get away with more, but no one wants that so... Who knows. All I know, is that my parents were supposed to arrive on Friday for a much needed vacation and have had to be rerouted all the way down to Singapore so I am off on a two day train ride to meet them. What a hassle! Wish me luck riding through malaysia which itself does not have the best reputation for travelers... all part of the adventure right?!

One Day in Dhaka

2008-12-01T08:23:00.004+05:30

That's 24 hours plus one to be exact, that I spent in the Dhaka (capital of Bangladesh) airport. I prepared myself with a blanket and snacks for the long wait, only to find out that Biman Airways would actually put me up in a hotel and feed me, only to find out that in order to leave the airport I had to buy a $20 72 hour visa with either USD or local currancy, of course I had neither so it was back to plan A - sleeping in the lounge. Lounge really is a misnomer, because all I was provided was a hard plastic chair to lounge in, but Ive had worse places to sleep that's for sure!

Here is a brief outline of my stay:

10:30am- My 25th flight of the year lands gently in Dhaka and all 28 passengers climb out onto the tarmac and walk into the airport. I am pleasantly surprised with the large, modern and spotlessly clean building and am immediately met by a man inquiring whether I am proceeding on to Bangkok. "Follow me Madam".

11:30am- I have learned that I could have spent the day in a hotel, but that the government insists I pay $20 cash in order to set foot on their soil so I am shown the restaraunt where I can eat my meals and relegated to the waiting lounge.

12:45pm- I tell the waiter that I will take lunch at 1pm and settle into my new book, Midnight's Children by Salman Rushdie; a very good book so far.

1:00pm- No Lunch arrives so when I signal the server he indicates it's actually already...
1:30pm (apparently Bangladesh is half an hour ahead) and was confused about when I actually wanted to eat. So now I get my bland dal, plain rice and chicken drown in one layer of 'curry' and one of oil. I also notice pods of all-white clad people mulling about like airport disciples. I could definitely relate and considered joining their ranks but then decided they might be in a little deeper than I. Or, perhaps the airport had lost all of their luggage and gave them sheets to wear. I later find out they are pilgrims on their way to Mecca.

4:00pm- I've read quite a bit, watched a little Indian Idol (so bad, so hilarious!) and listened to my ipod when two ladies in purdah sit in front of me and soon after strike up a conversation. They become my companions for the rest of the evening as their flight did not leave until early the next morning and it was incredibly interesting speaking with them! Some of the first questions they ask me is if I am married, how old I am (*gasp* and not married??), and if I am traveling alone. One had her face completely covered and when I asked if she was married, she laughed and said she was only 16 - it is hard to tell just by the eyes! Once we established a relationship, I asked if they ever got tired of wearing all black and they said no, they were used to it. They wore colors under their long jacket, but it was for their protection so men would not look at them. The mother (who I guessed to be about 50), noticed I was reading a 'Learn Hindi' book and could not supress her excitement. For the next hour or two I was quizzed on all sorts of Hindi, most of which I must say I hadn't a clue. They would both speak to me from either side at the same time, neither minding that the other was also speaking, making it very difficult to even attempt to learn, but also an amusing process. Eventually, dinner time rolled around and I was spared future examination.

8:00pm- Dinner was served to all Biman transfer passengers at the same time so once the clock hands hit 8, about 150 people streamed in and by
8:15pm- the din of diners and their clattering cuttlery was over as most had seemingly inhaled the dal/rice/chicken combo.

10:00pm- Besides a brief break when my new friends retired to the prayer room, I have engaged in an animated conversation with them. They are eager to speak with a western girl as much as I am eager to hear from them. The 16yr olds eyes dart to and fro and points out a man passing us saying "See, he is looking at me" to support her purdah style (I think to myself, it might be because you are in purdah, I looked at you to... but keep it to myself). She also admits to me that she really likes Tom Cruise, "Ah, if only he wanted two wives!" she jokes.

We cover whether I eat pork, beef, wine. I am proudly shown the new jewelry they have purchased and asked why I wear none. The mother tells me she hopes I marry soon to which I reply I will when I find the right one, to which she laughs and says "No right one, not important. Important you marry." She tells me that although her older daughter is getting her MD, she felt it was time for her to marry (at 20yrs old) so she engaged her to a man in another country. She laughs again, when telling me that he daughter was 'furious' and worried she would not be able to complete her studies but graciously the groom-to-be has said that after the wedding she can stay until she finishes her studies. The 16yr old nods and says "There just comes a time when you have to get married". Aye aye. I am so glad I am not in that position but I am just as glad that I am getting this very interesting interaction!! So rarely I think, is someone like me, bearing my calves and all, let into this inner ring. Fleetingly, the teenager furtively removed the part that covered her face to adjust it and I was shocked to see her! It was quite strange to suddenly see the face that you had already been talking to and had an image of...

1:00am- I have felt tired on and off but even cuddled up in my blanket there are too many bright neon lights and shuffling noises to allow for sleep. A young girl sits in front of me, turns to observe me a couple time and then comes to sit right next to me, soon followed by her older sister. Turns out, they are from Bangladesh and moving to California. Both speak halting english but are SO interested to speak with me! "What are you wearing" is their first question since I was wrapped in my blanket. They want to fit in. I enjoy the interview and relish their excitement towards the new life head of them. I am their very first American and newest friend.

4:00am- I should be sleeping by now so as I start to curl up, the mother catches me with "Can I ask you something, no worry? No feel strange?", "Of course" I say. "I ask you in english and you answer in hindi okay?", "Okay I ask? One-two-three? Ek-do-teen?" she says delaying her own question. I can hardly wait to hear it. "So with your age... I mean, you had boyfriend yes? So... you have sexual experience?" Ha! I was not sure how to respond. I had already admitted to the wine and the pork and the boyfriend(s) but what do you say? I was very pleased that we clearly had established a trust enough that she could voice her curiosities especially in front of her young daughter who's framed eyes betrayed her intrigue. I did have experience I told her, not as much as some my age, but it had to be with the right person, which I hadn't yet found I repeated. "You don't... miss it?" Haha, this was brilliant! That line of questioning ended with her repeating her wish for me that I marry soon, very sweet.

7:00am- Breakfast time and my friends left to board their flight back to India. We exchanged emails and they insisted I stay with them if I am ever in town.

11:30am- My flight is finally boarding. I have my big backpack with me as well as my carry-on since I had to reclaim it and despite asking where I check it back in, I am directed right through security and onto the plane. "That's not going to fit in here Madam". "I know, I asked where I was supposed to put it..." "Well, we don't have a full flight so we can just strap it down in the seat next to you." Okay, easy enough for me. It's just like not getting my passport checked for my ticket in Calcutta (they just saw my printout and issued me a ticket) - security is not the same as it is in the states! And I was off to Thailand, flight #26, country #28, total of 3 hours flight time from Calcutta to Bangkok took me 28, but I would absolutely not have traded the experience for a direct flight!

Travel tip from Tom

2008-11-22T13:31:00.002+05:30

I read this quote this morning and thought it was good enough to post :).

"To younger travelers: Don't embarrass us all by wearing a "Gamma Theta Phi 1st annual pole sitting and raw Pig-a-thon (Sponsored by Zeff's Auto Parts and WXLR 91 FM Golden Oldies Tower of Power Blast From Your Past Hot Hits) Bloomsburg State College, Greek Week Monster Blow-Out Bash 2007" plastered across your chest. Shirts like that confuse people in other countries. However, a discreet message confirming your concern for gay rainforest whales would not be amiss and may even score points with a young Euro."

-Thomas Neenan, "Let's Blow Through Europe"

Are we there yet?

2008-11-19T19:14:00.008+05:30

"Are we there yet?" This is the bookend phrase to my 15 splendid days in Nepal.

At first, I couldn't wait to get in. A long bus journey brought us to the border and with only minor obstacles (surprising how not having a measly $5usd can stop you in your tracks). Once across the border (checking off my 27th country!), we learned that Diwali or Dipawali, the fantastic festival of light and renewal that we had just celebrated on the Ganges in Varanassi, lasted a week in Nepal and therefore, most of the money changers, rickshaw drivers and busses were taking the holiday(s) off. Id been told repeatedly by everyone that I would find Nepal so much easier but I didnt see much of a difference yet!

Ignoring the locals trying to steer us onto the 'only' bus from the border that day, going to a different city than we wanted, we hired a rickshaw to take us to the local bus station - that was completely abandoned. One man sat behind the bars and told us that there might be a bus running to Pokhara in a couple hours, but he wasn't sure. Our luck held though and after a short wait, the little bus did arrive and accepted a full load of tourists with no options.

Another long bus ride took us into the heart of Nepal, lush green countryside, villages perched precariously on stilts off the edge of the winding road and people gathered together. Men on their haunches playing games, chewing and spitting paan, kids with toothy grins waving and playing with scraps and if we caught sight of women they were usually carrying something - always something to be carried somewhere. Staring out the window I tried to discern what distinguished Nepal and my first thoughts were one, the people seemed to fit. I don't think order is exactly the right word, but there was space in Nepal. Everything had not only space enough to exist, but to breath, move around... I could take a deep breath and not wonder how much of that "air" was sticking to my lungs. Also, literally right across the border, men started wearing a Nepali style hat. I saw fewer saris, but just as many salwar kamis on the women and a new style basket worn on the back but strung across the forehead - perfect for carrying.

We shared a taxi down to the tourist sector along the lake with a brilliant dutch girl, Brigitte, who would, although we didnt know it then, turn our duo into a trio and provide wonderful company the next two weeks. Sebastiaan and Brigitte decided they wanted to test the local rapids so while they were away rocking on whitewater (and flipping into icewater I later found out), I took the time alone to wander around the lake and hike up the surrounding hills to places like the World Peace Pagoda and a breathtaking view of some of the worlds highest mountains from the village of Sarangkot. It was absolutely ideal for me, blue skies, chatting with locals, playing with kids and of course stopping to take photographs whenever the moment touched me.

The colors were unusually saturated and while sitting in my favorite lakeside cafe, savoring a fresh baked croissant, I honestly pondered the possibilty that there were two juxtaposed heavens right there in front of me. One for the paragliders and hawks to chase eachother in and one brought down for us to bathe and float in. Hills flanked the lake and faded slightly like open pages from a good book... Pokhara was a happy place for relaxing trekkers just about to leave or just returning from their respective journeys in the wild. It also offered me a reprieve from the cow revering country of India by serving up a thick juicy steak on my first night there :).

Sebastiaan returned with a stomach bug that wouldn't give up so he regretfully had to stay behind in Pokhara to get well while Brigitte and I set our sights on a 4 day trek to Poon Hill, supposedly the most impressive viewpoint of the entire famed Jomson Trek.
We each paid Rs2000 (about $35) for a permit to hike within the Annapurna range and also hired a porter for our things because, no we weren't being lazy, thats just what you do when you're in Nepal! Our porter turned out to be quite the character and almost a burden. He actually complained we were going too fast (and no, we did not give him bricks to carry. We gave him just one pack with essentials - honest)!

I must admit the hike did not exactly live up to my dream of an arduous, sweat inducing, adventure in the Himalaya. The first day, though pretty steep and ending in a long string of steps up, up, up, we never really got too far away from civilization. We walked from guesthouse to tiny village to tea house and passed too many people along the way. Once I got past my expectations though, it was a marvelous hike. The crowd thinned each day and we found more nature. Agriculture lands, rice being harvested, rivers, woods, rickety bridges and falls with rudimentary water collecting systems that were awesome to watch. Reminded me of the ol' gold panning days in the wild west... or at least movies Ive seen of those times ;).

Poon Hill made every other mountain vista hang their peaks in shame. We opted to hike there for sunset rather than sunrise to the protest of both our porter and hotel owner, "No, no, no, you go for sunrise, you go in the dark, frozen, morning, thats what everyone does..." We can always go again I thought and up we went. The sun set in front of the mountains, some of the highest in the world, so we were rewarded with ever-shifting hues sliding from gentle pastels to searing reds and oranges and the best part was - we had it all to ourselves! As opposed to the traffic jam we were told about in the morning with every other hiker in the area fighting to take pictures and climb the observation tower. We were quite pleased to stay in bed 'til the late hour of 7am :).

Brigitte was the perfect hiking partner as we spent an evenly proportioned time together chatting and apart, going our own paces, sometimes sharing our favorite songs from our ipods.
Each night, we stayed in quaint little tea lodges that felt like tree houses and served surprisingly delicious dishes by a fire and hot ginger lemon tea in the crisp mornings. It wasn't roughing it, that's for sure, but it was magical in its own right. Part exercise, part relaxing, part socializing... Lovely! On the last day down, I found a large flat rock in the middle of the river and I could not resist climbing out to it. The water cascaded all around me and little droplets bounced on a trampoline like crystal popcorn on either side. I have not been so completely content in a long time.

Once back in Pokhara, Sebastiaan was back in action and the three of us enjoyed some last comfort foods before we took a bus to Kathmandu. On first glimpse, it reminded me of Delhi with its slum-like dwellings and cement, lifeless building, but once we came closer to the heart of the city I realized it was nothing like it. In fact, once again, the space was what I noticed. Our hotel room had a balcony that looked out onto a square. Every morning, as I awoke around 6:30am, earlier than the others, I would watch the locals play badmitton, shops open, fresh chai being served (although I never found a real good chai in Nepal), uniformed kids on their way to school and various animals looking for breakfast. I also splurged a little on the many bakeries in town - my weakness ;).

Seeing the sights ended up being more expensive than anywhere in India, everything charged, even just walking through Durbar square was Rs250, but the sights are incredible. I have never seen so many temples and historic buildings packed into such a small area! Sitting up a long set of stairs and watching the parade of men carrying massive loads of mysteriously wrapped goods strapped to their heads, arguments instantly gathering crowds, kids weaving through traffic of people and rickshaws, tourists snapping photos left and right... Ahh, the life in this place! We also visited two very impressive Buddhist Stupas, one being the most recognizable symbol of Nepal, Swayambunath (nicknamed the monkey temple, rightfully so - one even snatched my chocolate away and seemed surprised when I tried to snatch it back!) It was a really peaceful place that I wish we would have spent more time at. I also quite enjoyed circumambulating the stupa at sunset with hundreds of people including monks, locals and a handful of tourists... for someone that doesn't have too many spiritual experiences, I could not deny the power created by the faithful.

Unfortunately, we were only given 15 day visas and our time was up so we looked into getting to Darjeeling. Travel agents were surprisingly friendly but unhelpful. They all told us that it would be cheaper to go ourselves to the bus station as hey would have to charge us an extra fee (yes, isnt that what travel agents do?) so we wandered out to the place that sold bus tickets, nothing was in english and most people insisted we couldnt even go that way because the monsoon this year had washed out the bridge. Better to take a 24hour journey out the side of Nepal and go all the way around they said. I, perhaps partly out of stubborness and partly out of intrigue in the challenge, decided I would rather chance it and go straight. We bought tickets to the river and off we went!

Once at the river, in the darkness of 5am, we were ushered onto another bus for the last couple kilometers to a bamboo foot bridge they had built over part of the river. Every step creaked and strained under the weight of me and my backpack and I imagined crashing through and being drug underwater - that was the most nerve-wracking crossing of my life! Next, we walked a couple K to the real crossing that had to be done with boats. We faced sheer chaos. People pushed and shouted to get a spot on overcrowded craft, as more and more arrived. Boatsmen argued over who was next and how many people were too many people. All of this with a backdrop of the sun rising over this calm river that had completely flooded the region not too long ago and left thousands without home, forced into flood victim tents. The rest of the region was a waste land. The worst part of this all, was that my intense interest in this whole scene was hampered by the fact that I desperately needed to 'use a restroom'! It was making me sick, but there was no place for a girl to go - Sebastiaan tried to shield me with my blanket but there were too many people on all sides that stopped to watch the second that the only foreigners did anything and I couldn't.

The boat finally left the shore, belching and sputtering the thickest black smoke towards the 20 or so people unlucky enough to have gotten a spot at the back of the boat. We disembarked into the water and walked another half K to a final small crossing and the busses onward.

You would think the adventure was over... The bus stopped an hour or two later in a small town behind several others. "There is a strike ahead". We are told... Great. Nobody knows when it will end, if it will end, "Go back the way you came" was their advice. Not a chance. We waited a couple hours until we noticed busses moving. Apparently they were all lining up and we were going to get a police escort... in maybe two more hours! Good thing Sebas and I are patient people. The only worry was that the border might close and we would have to pay a fine for our expired visas. By the way, the one good thing about this unscheduled stop was that I was finally able to find, literally, a hole in the ground with 4 walls around it - this marked 28 hours!!

Enter tourist bus full of 50+yr old Aussies- our saving grace. Sebas struck up a conversation with them and soon enough they had permission to go on and invited us to come with them! The only vehical larger than a motorcycle allowed on the road and police at various points riding on our roof or driving ahead of us, we made it through the turbulent area to the border! Are we there yet?? Almost! Paperwork completed, we strolled across the border and I could feel the Indian soil under my feet! Don't get me wrong, I thoroughly enjoyed Nepal, but I tell ya, it was good to be back!

Sebastiaan and I spent a few days enjoying the famed hillstation of Darjeeling and besides of course sharing several pots of pure darjeeling tea, hiked around, read and relaxed before we took a memorable 8 hour ride on the World Heritage Toy Train (a trip that takes 3 hours by jeep) and parted ways in NJP. I had grown accustomed to having my dear friend around, we shared many good days together and it was strange to suddenly be on my own again. But there I was, waiting for my 11 hour overnight train to Calcutta, which was sold out of sleeper seats so I got to sit on a wooden bench surrounded by men releasing too many of their gasses... I never said travel was always enjoyable ;)

I've now got a couple days to explore Kolkata, a city less threatening than I expected, with deliciously cheap street food and the last bastion for hand-drawn rickshaws, before I board my 25th flight of the year to Bangkok (with a 25 hour layover in Dhaka)! I can't wait!

Sightseeing with Sebastiaan

2008-11-03T17:02:00.002+05:30

Once again, I have a lot of catching up to do. With all the facinating things going on, that is truly a challenge, but this time I really am going to try my best to summarize!

Sebastiaan and I wasted no time in hitting the road as we left the comforts of Delhi on a tincan government bus to Agra. Along the way, we befriended Gabor, a nice hungarian that was biking though India with an occasional bus ride on the long stretches. We arrived late at night and while Sebas and I caught a rickshaw, Gabor raced behind us. I was really quite jealous that he had his own wheels - I miss a good workout terribly! In the morning we rose early to get the promised sunrise view of the Taj Mahal from our roof, but instead found a smoggy, faded outline of the famed mosoleum. The area around the Taj was cram-packed with ugly cement tenements and hotels, but the life going on was quite interesting to watch from above. We had one focus. This image we have seen so many times, all over the world, the whole reason we were here in the first place, was barely holding back the modern, conjested, ugly weight squeezing it from all sides. Kids were going to school and people were opening up shops, seemingly unaware of what was on the other side of that great wall - did they not realize they lived right next to the Taj Mahal? Of course they did, otherwise there would not be so many foreigners in their way.

We toured the sights. Agra Fort, the "baby taj", the river but most of our time was spent in awe of the great Taj Mahal and believe me, it is everything they say it is and more. I had my doubts. At $18 a ticket, its easily the most expensive sight in all of India and sometimes these places that are so over exposed can be disappointing but I could have spent the entire day just sitting on the clean white marble surrounding the Taj (everyone must remove their shoes before climbing up to the platform). My feet absorbed the energy, my imagination sparked and I had the rare sense that lifeless stone can be hewn by human heart and infused with spirit to emenate a timeless indescribable energy even now, 400 years later. I just wished I could appreciate it all by myself, somehow have a personal viewing... Im not often that impressed.

Sebas also got the chance to peddal our cycle rickshaw uphill and when we ran into our friend Gabor again after getting seperated he joined us for the Best Thali (typical Indian meal served on a metal plate with several small servings of various dishes - dal, mixed veg etc and chapati) in town, at a locals only place Id heard about. The same helpful local had convinced me to stop in Orchha on our way to Khajuraho which turned out to be incredible - it pays to listen to the locals!

Orchha, which means "hidden place", truly is like a secret garden. Everywere you looked, there were ruins of palaces and temples and one massive fort across the wide river running through town. While Sebas paid the Rs250 for the main sights, I chose to wander off into the countryside and explore the other hidden treasures Indiana Jones style. I followed some goats through an abandoned archway to a spot on the river where locals were doing laundry and hacked my way through overgrowth to an edifice whispering stories of its past... all to myself! I loved it!

Sebas had his first brush with Hinduism as we shared chai with the priest of a temple we came upon and beamed to me with his first tika (colorful blessing placed on the forehead). To my great disappointment, our schedule did not allow us to remain another day and we had to return to catch our bus to Khajuraho, famous for its Kama Sutra Temples.

The temples of Khajuraho had some of the most intricate carving I have seen in India and reminded me of the carvings of Copan in Honduras. The subect matter of course, differed vastly. To be honest though, it was not all ancient, wild sexual positions, but rather an open display of day to day life. It was more a celebration of woman with women writing letters, bathing, battle scenes, even agriculture - and yes, wild sexual positions. It was interesting to see some carvings covering their eyes, or looking away as well as some quite interested in what was going on - there was a lot of life and movement in that simple stone.

We met a young boy of about 12yrs old that helped us rent bikes and took us to the temples outside town. We spent a wonder afternoon peddaling around the old village, everything was SO photogenic but I didnt want to interupt the scene by pulling out my camera. I also discovered a new fruit called sandala in Hindi, maybe waterfruit in english? For those that know me, it was definitely a new fruit day in both senses of the phrase!

From there we took a bus and a train to Varanassi, Indias holiest city for Diwali, Indias biggest holiday. It is a celebration of light and the triumph of good over evil and one of the things Ive wanted to witness since I started learning about India. Although I believe its a place that does not reveal itself to most visitors, we were there during a special time and I think we had superb timing. As one of Indias largest cities we again encountered pollution and crowds and overwhelming smells. I was beginning to fear that Sebastiaan was going to take away a very negative view of the country Ive come to adore.

We explored the maze of alleyways, toured a silk factory, saw young boys that had been taken in from the street to learn the art of embroidery for free room and board, joined briefly in a cricket match with the backdrop of ancient temples (no matter how many times I play, Im still rubbish, but at least I didnt hold the bat like in baseball as Sebastiaan! ;) and finally made our way down to the dirty (to put it nicely) Ganges. We strolled along the ghats until we came to the main ghat where Sebas was convinced to get a whole-body, two-person massage while I people watched - there was so much to see! People with shaved heads coming to bathe after bringing their loved ones to the burning ghats, nearly naked yogis with dreadlock behives writhing atop their ash covered bodies, tourists with cameras pointed in all directions... again, such life!

We hired a boat to give us a tour and against my desires, we took a brief tour of the burning ghats. I was very uncomfortable there to say the least, the cessation of life there... I dont know, to a Hindu its the release of the spirit from the rebirth process so its a happy occasion, but for me... well too many thoughts to express here. I also dont hang out at cemeteries to watch burials, go figure.

The best part of our stay in Varanassi was upon returning to the main ghat we were ushured to another boat to watch the Diwali great puja (prayer ceremony). Again, I cant explain everything that happened here, but it was a magnificent sight, filled with color and fire and light and fireworks and music and chanting... As many people as could fit in the stairs and as many as had been lucky enough to be out on the water watched in a glow and immediately afterwards the whole city errupted in explosions. The Indians love their ear-bursting bombs! The great thing is that Ive seen plenty of fireworks in my time, but in the states its all very controlled. Here, I was getting showers of sparks coming down on my head from fire-fountains on rooftops. Rockets were shooting every-which way and around every corner we had to see if kids were covering their ears from a cherrybomb they had lit in the middle of the alley... at our feet. It was so much fun! We were invited to light fireworks on the rooftop of a shopkeeper and I know the sight and sound of pyrotechnics all around us and giant sparklers in our hands will be with me for a long time hence!

The next day we visited temples, Sebas witnessed the craze that came over a large group of boys at a parade we were watching when I was discovered and got a couple good pictures to prove it and finally a long trip (including our bus driving in the dark with no lights) brought us to the border of...

Nepal!!!

The Rest of Rajasthan (a novel)

2008-10-22T13:10:00.007+05:30

Ahhh, now that’s more like it! I have returned to Delhi after an outstanding 2 weeks of adventure, new and old friends! Clearly, India had missed me during my unfortunate hiatus as much as I missed her, because she welcomed me back with open arms and surprises at every stop!

*Reader beware, this is a lengthy one so if you would like the summary, skip to the last paragraph :) Pictures to come soon.

I hopped on a night bus (the first of many) to Jodhpur, Rajasthan's blue city and arrived about 14 hours later. I hadn’t left the bus the entire time and hadn’t 'used the restroom' in about 17 so I was ready to burst! India doesn’t really cater to female travellers that way. As is common, the private bus stopped in the middle of nowhere so travellers are forced to hire a rickshaw. I refuse to lose that game so I usually get to amble in a direction chosen by my instincts or maybe a whiff of samosas until I shake the last tout from my trail. This time I wandered past a 5star hotel and decided that would be the best and probably only place to find a "public" toilet. The woman at the front desk gave me and my backpack a disapproving look but the man pointed me down the hall and I had a brief glimpse into a gorgeous hotel where other more, fortunate, travellers stay (they even provided toilet paper - what luxury!).

My friend in Pushkar had already phoned ahead so I had guesthouses expecting me in my next two destinations. I was given a nice room at the base of the beautiful Meherangarh Fort, ordered lunch from the rooftop cafe and then rested from the midday heat before getting out to explore. Despite the fact that it’s Oct, the temperature is still regularly around 33/92 degrees!

Since I was on my own, I had a couple things on my To-Do list, like get my hair cut and try to finally find a tailor who could make the top I designed. While wandering towards a market, I stopped in a spice shop and was pleased to get more than a sales pitch but actually a lesson on Indian spices from a girl about my age whose family had been in the spice business for decades. I bought a few of their special mixes and as I left asked her about a place to get my haircut. She wouldn’t recommend any in the area and said they would charge me an outrageous tourist price anyway so if I came back the next day, her mom would be happy to cut my hair. What luck!

In the market I found a fantastic little juice shop that sold a special "Makanhiya" Lassi for just Rs10 (about 25c) that was thick and sweet and delicious, now my second favorite treat in India (not including anything from Mcleod Ganj)! Then, on my way to a temple that I had seen from my roof, a shopkeeper, who I was originally sceptical of, accompanied me and ended up inviting me to his brothers wedding that night! Not only that, but he would take me to his family's tailor, who he promised would give me an Indian/honest price. My first day back in India proper and I can’t believe my good fortune. I was brought to his mother who gave me a Khagra to wear, the Rajasthani dress of a skirt, top and large scarf pleated and wrapped around me.

I am not sure I can properly put into words the menagerie that took place that night! I felt something like... part Disney Princess, part NBA Cheerleader. All the men wanted their picture taken with me and to dance with me. I was ushered into the photography session with the groom who grinned proudly as I, someone he has never seen in his life, stood next to him in front of 7 or 8 still and video cameras. Next, the women and darling little girls wanted to be in a picture with me, one even pulling me down, crowning me with her tiara and then each one dragging me in a different direction to meet someone or stand where they thought I should be standing.

The groom was finally draped with a huge vale of flowers, perched upon a white horse and led out into the streets, around the reception. Every 5 minutes or so the whole line would stop, the men in the front, the women in the back, the sweet little lower caste girls hired to carry lights on their heads and the band would intensify signalling a time to dance. More than once I was called back to my "proper" place with the women when I tried to sneak around and take pictures - silly foreign girl, get back here where you belong - and almost every time I was cajoled, sometimes tugged into the center of the circle for a performance which I must admit, lost its novelty after the first 3 or 4 rounds. The last stop, back inside, I’m pretty sure that drummer would have burst through his drum before stopping if I hadn’t insisted I was finished! I only have so many bollywood and Punjabi moves in my repertoire!

My new friend, who had anxiously shuffled between the men’s and women’s groups to make sure I was being taken care of, warned me not to talk to any other men and also proceeded to introduce me to every family member and friend that he could possibly find. After the food was served, people seemed to trickle out pretty quickly as the groom sat with other men on the stage apparently waiting for the bride to come at the auspicious hour chosen by the family astrologer sometime later that night. We too left in proper Indian style, I rode on a motorbike behind two men, side-saddle with my scarf fluttering behind me. What a brilliant day!!

I awoke early the next morning to get an omelette from the famous omelette-shop down town and then hike up to explore the fort. Admission was free for Indians and Rs 250 for foreigners but I had heard the audio guide was worth it and they were right. Chock full of information, I spent the whole afternoon wandering around and learning interesting tidbits about not only the forts history but also about many other places in Rajasthan. Jodhpur's maharaja still lives in one part. Afterwards, I went to get my haircut which was everything you could expect from a free haircut :) and then picked up my brand new Korta top which had been stitched as well as a separate undershirt as the material is see-through for the grand total of Rs60 (about $1.50) when I had previously been quoted Rs500 or the rock bottom price of Rs275. India can be very frustrating sometimes, so I was absolutely tickled to have accomplished so much in my first two days - and so successfully!

7am found me on my next bus towards Jaisalmer, Rajasthan’s golden city, sand-swept on the edge of the Thar Desert. About 5 hours later, I arrived and somehow news had already spread of my arrival, so a man boarded the bus a stop early with my name on a sign. I had not been able to get ahold of my contact in Jaisalmer so to make things easy, I just joined the man that had a jeep waiting for us to another hotel. I didn’t know that this decision would give me such an insight into what makes the underground tourism in Rajasthan tick! Suffice it to say, the manager of the place was quite the playboy and had touts everywhere. My friends all the way back in Pushkar, who are not connected to this gossip-ring mind you, even heard through the grape-vine about who I had been spotted with! The drama in Jaisalmer is a good story for another day, but I did indeed learn a lot about how things work here. I also ate dinner on the roof with the glitter of fireworks in my eyes as the end of a 9 day festival was celebrated all over town. More gifts from india :).

After researching prices, hemming and hawing about the possible uber-touristy-ness of a camel trek, I found a good price from a reputable agent and decided to go for it. It was absolutely the best decision! At 8am I met the other 9 riders from Argentina, Canada, Ireland, Israel, Germany, and Spain and we took a jeep about 50k from town to thankfully get away from the beaten track. After meeting our new steeds and mounting up, (my favorite part of the whole ride was when the camel would stand up! They are so tall, it’s almost like an amusement park ride! :), we set off into a landscape of barren plains and faded bushes. Truly, it was hot, but we were told that in the summer it can get up to 60/140degrees!! We stopped at a tiny village, which I must admit was not all that spectacular. The few people around stopped what they were doing to gaze at us or ask us for something (money, pen, my watch... one woman even took it for a while acting as though she would keep it. My Hindi came in handy!) and we moved on fairly quickly.

Lunch was taken under a small patch of trees while the camel’s ankles were bound and allowed to forage. We had fresh cooked veggies, chapatti and as much warm water as we could drink. For 3 hours, we waited for the sun to inch across the peak. I tried to get out and explore but there wasn’t much to see and the burning sand was quite cunning at finding flesh.

More camel riding, I would try to inch my camel into the lead, which from what I could tell she liked but was quite lazy about. Our last stop before camp was another small village that had an actual refrigerator, which means COLD drinks! It was the closest thing to an oasis that I’ve ever found and paying 3times the regular cost was well worth it!

Along the way, I was extremely tempted to stand up in my saddle. I don’t know why had such a strong urge but I believe mostly it was the challenge. It took me quite a while, Ill admit, as the gate of a camel through sand is not very smooth or regular but soon I had the other riders and even the camelmen cheering me on and then - I was up! And then down :). I could only ever stay standing for maybe 5-10 seconds before dropping back to my seat for fear of falling what must have been at least 10ft to the ground. What a thrill though! I loved it!

Camp was setup on rolling dunes just before sunset and a few of the boys and I had jumping contests in the sand while dinner was prepared. The camelmen sang for us (including one in English to the tune of Barbie Girl, something like - I’m a camelman, in a desert laaand... I only wish Id memorized more of the words through my laughter ;) and we swapped jokes and travel stories - always my favorite. I learned the two Israeli boys would be on the same bus to Udaipur with me so I would have some good company for a change.

After a crisp night in the open air, I awoke to a gentle pink sunrise, spotted with camel silhouettes and fresh chai delivered to my mat. It doesn’t get much better than that! Everything was gathered up and we to my delight we trotted the camels back towards the jeeps. My delight for all of about 30min and then I missed the smooth(er) sauntering of the pervious day. The more competitive of us wrested the lead from each other most of the way and I think we were all happy to see the jeeps come into view and take a last picture or two. Roi, Amir and I had just enough time to shower and have a bite for lunch before we took a sleeper bus to Udaipur in the south of Rajasthan.

Our schedules being fairly tight, after arriving in Udaipur, we decided just to stay the day and take night busses again to our respective destinations. With another recommendation from a friend, we kept our things and freshened up in the guesthouse with the highest rooftop in town. The three of us and about a dozen monkeys ooohed and ahhed at a rosy-bronze sunrise that glazed several palaces, a lake, waterways and a couple temples. Lovely! We spent the day touring the town, running errands and having a general good time. They were great travel buddies and it’s a shame we had to part so soon, but as things go, our busses were leaving at about the same time from the same station so we bid each other fond farewells. I had a somewhat uncomfortable ride to Bundi including my wallet being taken (or perhaps falling out of my bag) which is a first and a man behind me sneaking his hand through the side of my seat for a feel which not even close to a first.

In Bundi, I was heartily received and more people than I expected recognized me and invited me for a chai. I visited my favorite tailor who was too busy since it is Diwali season to fix a top of mine but obliged in embroidering my name in Hindi. It turned out marvellous and he even made me a little gift of a hankie with a rose and my name in English, from what he could tell from the Hindi, "Jusi". I love it!!

Pushkar was more catching up with friends and an invitation to my friend's family's home where I met his adorable parents and got to learn a little about what it’s like in an Indian Christian home. I certainly have met some wonderful people on my trip, especially in Rajasthan!

*So, in summary, I spent 11 days picking up major sights in Rajasthan, including the blue city of Jodhpur (with its impressive fort, spice market, lassis and omelettes and dancing the night away at a fabulously frenetic Indian wedding), the golden city of Jaisalmer (fireworks all night, all over town, taken in from my rooftop and an exciting camel safari/campout under the stars on the dunes), the fairytale city of Udaipur (watching the sunrise and sunset from the highest rooftop in town over two palaces on the lake and the gorgeous city palace and Jama temple) and then two too short stops in Bundi (to visit my adoptive Indian family) and Pushkar (to visit friends as good as family).

I know this has been a fairly verbose blog entry, but I still feel like I have left out so much! Every day here is a mixture of amusement and wonder - I only wish I could share more of it with you all!

Change of plans

2008-10-06T16:06:00.003+05:30

Well, as India continues to remind me, one must be prepared for plans to change, in fact, I am not sure the word plan or schedule, itinerary etc even exists in any of the hundreds of Indian native languages and dialects.

My friend's flight was canceled for unknown reasons and somehow the best sollution was to cancel the trip altogether... Ask me not for further explanation.

So, without further ado, I leave today for Jodhpur. The same Jodhpur that made international headlines just a week ago for a stampede of people trying to get into a temple that killed more than 150 people... Should be an interesting place.

My solo trip continues, but I am now anxiously awaiting a second, (first now) visitor, Sebastiaan! A good friend of mine from the Netherlands who promises to bring Stroop waffels and a great laugh :) in about 2 weeks.

Time to Un-relax!

2008-09-24T16:14:00.005+05:30

Many short breaths... that's the opposite of a long deep breath that you take when you need to relax right? I desperately need to UN-relax! I'm back in Delhi, once again visiting my Austrian friends after 2 weeks in Pushkar, Rajasthan and I am tired of relaxing, tired of being lazy, having nothing to do! I know some people aspire to be able to relax for the rest of their lives, perhaps on a beach somewhere, wiling away the hours with a lemonade (or something stronger) in one hand and sand between their toes... I can't imagine anything more boring and unsatisfying!

I don’t know if it’s a side effect of growing up in an American society, but I have realized I have a deeply engrained desire to always be doing something. Sure, I love 'time off' just as much as the next person but there is a limit. Plus, my time off usually involves some kind of activity, hiking or jogging or exploring or at least a couple good friends...

I am now going on 6 weeks of travelling on my own which has included some exploring, studying Hindi, hiking, temples, palaces and forts, waterfalls, horses, Saris, television appearances, camels, trains and motorcycles and jeeps and busses, too many men/boys, lots and lots of reading, writing, drawing, darling little kids, swimming, drama and I finally got in a good run today for the first time! It hasn’t been enough though. My second week in Pushkar, I desperately wanted to do something productive. I went to the pool with my Hindi materials and noticed the pool hadn’t been cleaned yet. 'I should go for a swim later when they clear it' I thought and then it occurred to me, I could clean it myself. I hunted down the pole with the net on the end began the task only to discover I actually kind of enjoyed it - clearly it had been too long since I had that accomplished feeling you get from work. The staff of the Hotel, who at this point I considered friends, were pretty surprised to find me cleaning and jokingly assigned me the job for the rest of my stay :).

There were some highlights during my two weeks by the holy lake of Pushkar. A town with magnificent sunsets, an oasis surrounded by desert sands, overrun with Israeli tourists so much so that many of the signs are in Hebrew and graced with the presence of more ash covered sadhus and 'priests' performing pujas for a price than days in the Hindu calendar.

I accompanied two of the staff, Ajay and Kuldeep, along with 8 Israeli tourists on a jeep safari to their native village for a glimpse into small town life and some 'non-veg' food i.e. mutton. Pushkar, being a holy city with the only temple dedicated to Brahma, the creator god, has forbidden the consumption of meat, eggs and alcohol completely. Therefore, a mutton dinner was something fairly special - and delicious! :) My jeep did not have a windshield so with my spot in the front seat, as we flew down the road, I felt as though I was being pummeled by a thousand oven mittens - so fun! A bird swooped down and collided with one of the Israelis in the back. Kuldeep rescued the shell-shocked winged one and fed it water from his hand. We passed massive collections of hay pulled by tractors, wagons laden with vegetables pulled by donkeys and any number of wooden carts with various products pulled by men, women and children. One woman balanced an enormous basket covered in brightly colored material on her head with her Orna (headscarf) pulled down to conceal her face but flying freely behind her. I will never forget that image of a graceful, faceless rainbow with a hot air balloon hat drifting down the lane. That evening after dinner, I even got to ride one of the horses bareback for a while through the fields although the spine was quite prominent so it was, ahem, very uncomfortable! Saddles next time. :)

I hiked to all the surrounding peaks and was rewarded with wonderful views of town. I met some interesting fellow travellers - Germans, Irish and Israelis. I meet very few Americans. I attended a birthday party in the neighboring city of Ajmer and for the first time, spent time with, for lack of a better word, 'westernized' Indian girls, which was a culture just as intriguing to observe. I was introduced to a man that runs a factory that exports clothing all over the world and I designed a top that we worked on bringing to fruition, but unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time.

I must admit, I got involved in some illicit activity as well. I helped sneak some eggs into town for use in an egg-curry and effectively became an 'egg-smuggler'. I hope the authorities are not keeping tabs on this blog! ;)

All in all, I enjoyed my time in Pushkar, but as I mentioned earlier, its time for some action! Luckily, I have my dear friend Steele visiting in two weeks and we are going to delve back into Rajasthan for guaranteed adventure! :)

(Not quite) 100 things Ive learned in 100 days

2008-09-09T14:08:00.004+05:30

· *September 9th marks day 100 in India for me and I've been gathering a list of things that India has taught me. For those of you that have been here, please do add your own bits of wisdom - I would love to hear them!

· On a dark road, avoid even darker spots on the ground

· I will never get used to the smell of urine

· Always carry Toilet Paper

· Squat-toilets aren’t always better than no toilet

· Always carry an extra plastic bag (thanks Tina)

· Always carry mosquito spray/afterbite

· Always carry a flashlight/torch

· I can never have enough masala chai

· Never plan on electricity

· Never expect anything to depart/arrive on time

· I love riding in auto-rickshaws and hate riding in cycle-rickshaws (and will not ride in the wagons pulled around in Mt. Abu)

· Monkeys, cows, dogs, and goats are cheeky animals, it’s the pigs that behave

· There is nothing like Indian hospitality

· Words like different, same, little etc must be repeated to have meaning

· Staring is not impolite, it is in fact, a way of life

· Traveling as a single woman means that I haven’t been able to find a husband in my own country and came to India to find one

· When in doubt, take your shoes off

· Trash put in the ever-so-rare bin will end up tossed in the street anyway (and I still can't bring myself to put it there myself)

· Red on the ground is either blood or snowcone

· Coconut and ginger go well with (almost) everything

· Hindi is a very difficult language – but I love the challenge

· Bless India

· Bless India for giving Tibetans sanctuary

· Bless Tibetans

· Bless the Dalai Lama

· Yes means, yes, I don’t know, I don’t understand, maybe, you’re welcome and We found your item but we are not going to tell you where it is…

· There are actually times when I am not in the mood to be in a photo

· I’m finally getting retribution for all of the ‘snaps’ I’ve taken of locals

· Stickers are a good thing to have on you for local kids

Something as simple as a red dot can gain entrance into some of the most private circles

· Apparently, I love playing dress up as much as I did at age 5

· We should all celebrate brother/sister day

· I am destined to carry a layer of India around as long as I am in the country

· To me, ‘dirty’ is relative, however clean is not

· One can never be alone in this country unless locked in your hotel room and even then, more than likely, bugs are there to keep you company

· I believe I have seen more than enough Hindu temples for the rest of my life

· Poverty and poor are two very different things

· The human spirit can endure much more than the mind can comprehend

· My horn honking/buzzing/jingle-jangling tolerance is a bell curve

· The aggregate of little things is what’s important, frustrating, what teaches, defines, builds up and breaks down – what is India