After days of hard work, mixing mud to build their coops, the kids mix in a day of adventure, leaving their tents behind, mountain biking through scenic countryside and villages, rafting down the world famous Urubamba river and perusing the markets, not to mention a nice hot shower in town. Rested and clean, they return rejuvinated to Socma to complete the building with their families, which is a process I feel very fortunate to be a part of. What a sense of accomplishment and empowerment for these kids when they tie those bamboo down and place the final roof tiles.
The last day in town, the kids are honored with a mérienda, a plate of locally produced veggies and carefully prepared cuy (guinea pig). Each family, the students and guides, other villagers and nearly all the niños that we had befriended over the week gathered to inaugurate the coops and it was a colorfully joyous afternoon. Confetti decorated everyones hair, a bottle of chicha was broken in an offering to the Pacha Mama (Mother Earth), doors were garlanded in greens and balloons and each set of students placed the first 7 cuy in their coop along with the alfalfa that they had cut and dried themselves. I simply cannot tell you how rewarding it is to see these kids participate in every step of providing a new sustainable life for this tiny village!
That night, the Socmans performed a series of traditional dances for the students including the most darling little set of spinning kids, boys dressed up as old men and a curious display of manhood where two by two, boys and men alike, join arms in friendship and then break apart to whip eachothers legs. Something in the way of showing pennance, the men maintain a stoic expression as each lash wraps around them, but boy, a couple of the little tykes get pretty upset when their partner gets in a solid whack!
The following night is spent in the tranquil setting of Rumira on the banks of the Urubamba. A Pacha Manca dinner is roasted underground (no guinea pig this time, just chicken and lamb, oh and my new favorite potato - an Ocha!) and the kids receive certificates from the mayor thanking them for their service to the Sacred Valley. On up to Aguas Calientes, a town that exists solely to cater to the tens of thousands of tourists that come to visit Machu Picchu each year. The kids nearly begged to be allowed to go to a discoteca and anyone knows, I am not one to argue against a night of dancing, so I braved the night scene with ten highschoolers in tow. They all agreed to get up early in order to catch the sunrise, so 6am found us aboard the shuttle up the mountain.
I can honestly say, in all my travels, I have seen nothing like the land surrounding Machu Picchu. The closest I can come is Meteora Greece, which is also an awe-inspiring sight. Jagged peaks rise from the valley like teeth; a maw that was once surely fierce and unyielding, now softened as with age with a layer of bushy green stubble and dense jungle. It is easy to see how the Spanish had difficulty finding this mysterious, magical hideaway.
We arrived at dawn to witness the first rays streaking through the mists and warming the incan stone. These students happened to be extra lucky because it was June 21st, the winter solstice and the only day in the entire year that the rising sun beams through the window of the sun temple and forms a perfect trapezoid on the altar! Half the group opted to make the precarious climb up Huayna Picchu for amazing views of the valley, while the other half wandered the ruins absorbing the ancient energy. I am just so lucky that I get to come back up to this spectacular wonder of the world 3 more times this summer!
The group wound up their 2 week journey with an entertaining train ride, bungee jumping from the highest jump in the Americas, touring Cusco a little more and some last minute shopping. After many heartfelt goodbyes, I had just enough time to catch my breath, (about an hour) before I picked up the next group to do it all over again! This time I have a better grasp on how everything works so I feel I can be even more help to the students. They are a good bunch so far and we will head into Socma tomorrow, so send lots of news for when I finally return to the www!
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Tusú rukù suey'chis!
"Buenos dias Señorita" accompanies a light rapping on my tent flap. I unzip my door to greet two smiling faces, one with a kettle of hot water and the other with a selection of tea bags, coca leaves, hot chocolate and sometimes even coffee. This is our wake-up call in the village of Socma, around 7am allowing us to ease into the day with a warm cuppa (that is if we've managed to sleep through villagers passing by and any number of donkeys, horses, sheep, roosters, dogs and cows trumpeting the morning news). It's a wonderful way to start a day.
Due to said natural alarm clocks, I'm usually awake and I'll take my tea out into the sunshine (once I manage to extract myself from my ultra cozy sleepingbag) and greet the kids as they one by one shuffle to the bathroom and into breakfast. We've hired a couple locals to cook our meals, Socma has many men that work as porters and cooks on the various incan trails during the tourist season as there is not much opportunity for employment this far off the beaten path - and the food is excellent.
Food is in fact a major part of the day here. After morning tea and breakfast, the kids are provided a snack, something like fruit and cookies, to take with them while they work. We've paired two kids with one family and the families usually share a 'snack' as well which can consist of anything from dried corn, beans, eggs on up to a plate loaded with meat, potatoes and pasta. Around noon, the kids return for a hearty lunch starting with soup, then around 5:30pm is afternoon tea with crackers/cookies/fried cheese pockets/popcorn etc and finally dinner around 7:30, which again starts with soup, main course and a dessert. Needless to say, the kids never get a chance to get hungry.
As a T.C. however, we get additional 'treats'. T.C., meaning Trip Coordinator, is not my official title but a Peruvian (maybe South American?) term that entitles me to certain perks such as a free meal when we take the kids to a restaurant, free room in the hotels we stay and even for example, if all of my kids buy hats at a certain shop, they will throw in an extra for me. I have yet to try out that last one, but apparently it's fairly common.
Each day, as I climb to the students houses to check in on them, (a serious workout by the way on the complex system of 'paths' that seem to reinvent themselves each night like Pan's Labyrinth) the altitude and severe incline ensure that I am gulping oxygen by the time I get there and more often than not I am invited to partake in a meal. It is not only an insult to say no, but also to leave food on your plate, never mind that it might be your 6th meal of the day and its barely 3pm. Usually, I can hardly look at the mound of food on my plate let alone consume it. I have a problem.
The other day though, I came up with a sollution. It was one of the Señora's birthday and they were throwing a fiesta. Confetti sprinkled everywhere, music playing and guinea pig, among other things heaped on a plate for me right after lunch and a snack at the previous house. I knew I was in trouble. I picked at the food, delicious as it was, making sure they saw me enjoying it and wondered how I would possible clear my plate. Suddenly, it dawned on me, I asked Max, our local guide how to say this in Quechua and I stood up to exclaim "Tusú rukù suey'chis!" (Let's dance!). The birthday girl jumped up, already fairly drunk off chicha, the local corn brew and joined me, spinning and stomping with a giant grin. It worked! I pulled the kids into the fray and the rest clapped to the beat... ahh, it was one of those moments that will forever be with me. It may not work every time, but I'm keeping it up my sleeve ;).
The kids work hard every day constucting their guinea pig coops together with their Socma families. They mix mud with their feet, fashion adobe bricks (weighing about 45lbs when dry), carry and place the bricks to form the walls and sections of the coop and apply the mud mortar. They peel bamboo and set the roof tiles in place and when not building they shuck corn in the community fields, learn how to sew traditional dolls (a new womans initiative in Socma) and cut alfalfa to dry for their guinea pigs. They've also taught for a day in the local school, played soccer with the villagers (our tents are set up between the school and the field) and even frisbee or catch with a softball (yes that was my addition ;) At night, which comes early as the hills tightly embrace little Socma, we've played plenty of catchphrase and card games - it's a great life.
We have now finished our service in Socma, with a great ceremony 'christening' the new coops. It was a wonderful day and I'll write more on that in future entries. Today is our last day of camping with a Pacha Manca (traditional feast) and several important guests (like the Mayor of the Sacred Valley) and tomorrow we travel to Aguas Calientes, which is at the base of... Machu Picchu! Sunday will be my first visit to this majestic wonder of the world and I am very excited!
Hugs to all my friends and family - hopefully pics to come soon!
Due to said natural alarm clocks, I'm usually awake and I'll take my tea out into the sunshine (once I manage to extract myself from my ultra cozy sleepingbag) and greet the kids as they one by one shuffle to the bathroom and into breakfast. We've hired a couple locals to cook our meals, Socma has many men that work as porters and cooks on the various incan trails during the tourist season as there is not much opportunity for employment this far off the beaten path - and the food is excellent.
Food is in fact a major part of the day here. After morning tea and breakfast, the kids are provided a snack, something like fruit and cookies, to take with them while they work. We've paired two kids with one family and the families usually share a 'snack' as well which can consist of anything from dried corn, beans, eggs on up to a plate loaded with meat, potatoes and pasta. Around noon, the kids return for a hearty lunch starting with soup, then around 5:30pm is afternoon tea with crackers/cookies/fried cheese pockets/popcorn etc and finally dinner around 7:30, which again starts with soup, main course and a dessert. Needless to say, the kids never get a chance to get hungry.
As a T.C. however, we get additional 'treats'. T.C., meaning Trip Coordinator, is not my official title but a Peruvian (maybe South American?) term that entitles me to certain perks such as a free meal when we take the kids to a restaurant, free room in the hotels we stay and even for example, if all of my kids buy hats at a certain shop, they will throw in an extra for me. I have yet to try out that last one, but apparently it's fairly common.
Each day, as I climb to the students houses to check in on them, (a serious workout by the way on the complex system of 'paths' that seem to reinvent themselves each night like Pan's Labyrinth) the altitude and severe incline ensure that I am gulping oxygen by the time I get there and more often than not I am invited to partake in a meal. It is not only an insult to say no, but also to leave food on your plate, never mind that it might be your 6th meal of the day and its barely 3pm. Usually, I can hardly look at the mound of food on my plate let alone consume it. I have a problem.
The other day though, I came up with a sollution. It was one of the Señora's birthday and they were throwing a fiesta. Confetti sprinkled everywhere, music playing and guinea pig, among other things heaped on a plate for me right after lunch and a snack at the previous house. I knew I was in trouble. I picked at the food, delicious as it was, making sure they saw me enjoying it and wondered how I would possible clear my plate. Suddenly, it dawned on me, I asked Max, our local guide how to say this in Quechua and I stood up to exclaim "Tusú rukù suey'chis!" (Let's dance!). The birthday girl jumped up, already fairly drunk off chicha, the local corn brew and joined me, spinning and stomping with a giant grin. It worked! I pulled the kids into the fray and the rest clapped to the beat... ahh, it was one of those moments that will forever be with me. It may not work every time, but I'm keeping it up my sleeve ;).
The kids work hard every day constucting their guinea pig coops together with their Socma families. They mix mud with their feet, fashion adobe bricks (weighing about 45lbs when dry), carry and place the bricks to form the walls and sections of the coop and apply the mud mortar. They peel bamboo and set the roof tiles in place and when not building they shuck corn in the community fields, learn how to sew traditional dolls (a new womans initiative in Socma) and cut alfalfa to dry for their guinea pigs. They've also taught for a day in the local school, played soccer with the villagers (our tents are set up between the school and the field) and even frisbee or catch with a softball (yes that was my addition ;) At night, which comes early as the hills tightly embrace little Socma, we've played plenty of catchphrase and card games - it's a great life.
We have now finished our service in Socma, with a great ceremony 'christening' the new coops. It was a wonderful day and I'll write more on that in future entries. Today is our last day of camping with a Pacha Manca (traditional feast) and several important guests (like the Mayor of the Sacred Valley) and tomorrow we travel to Aguas Calientes, which is at the base of... Machu Picchu! Sunday will be my first visit to this majestic wonder of the world and I am very excited!
Hugs to all my friends and family - hopefully pics to come soon!
Monday, June 8, 2009
Rustic Peru
A knot of conflicting emotions, I boarded a shuttle at 2:30am for the Seattle Airport. Although I was more prepared than I ever have been before, I guess Im getting good at this moving thing ;), I felt somewhat less prepared mentally. I hit the ground running after India, never really getting out of a backpack, spending time in more than eight different towns and three states and while these reunions were so needed and they did charge my batteries in a way, I just never had time to stop and breath, reset.
Both flights went smoothly and around 11pm (Peru is on central time), I collected my bags and witnessed my first evidence of the swine flu scare, as every employee of an airline or an airport was wearing a face-mask. An eery first impression of Peru. I met my new boss, Gabe, got a couple hours sleep, before we turned right back around and boarded a plane from Lima to Cuzco.
At slighty more than 10,000ft, training began and over the course of the week, myself and another summer staff, along with the country director and program manager, became oriented with the towns and villages that we'd be working in for the next 10 weeks. We had an official meeting with the Mayor of the Sacred Valley, which was interesting and I visited Socma, the village that I would be bringing students to (the project involves three villages in the valley). As a wonderful surprise, the villagers had prepared a "pachamanca" for us (a traditional meal for special occasions). They gathered in the town square (where we will be camping) and uncovered the goat and potatoes that had been roasting under hot stones and earth. We each received a heaping plate full and as an 'aperitif' a glass of chicha, a drink of fermented corn (not much of a fan). Afterwards, we introduced ourselves and a couple of the women sprinkled freshly plucked flower petals over our heads - such a humbling honor.
Later that night, we met with the heads of the village to discuss the logistics and goals of the project. My spanish comprehension is holding up surprisingly well, but I need a vast improvement in my speaking abilities. Many of the villagers only speak Quechua, for which we have a translator, but I have made it a goal to learn some of that as well. There were several moments in which speakers became emotional either because this project is going to mean so much to the community or more often because we are unfortunately lacking the funds to complete the project as planned. We have had to scale back our original proposal and therefore some of the families will not be getting their guinea pig coops this year. I was so incredibly touched that I have decided to raise funds for the project, so please stay tuned for more information on ways you may be able to help!
This weekend, we finally had a free evening and so after a delicious dinner and a fantastic display of fireworks and crackers strung up on rickety bamboo towers (and of course its the first time that I, for whatever reason, decided to leave my camera at home), I ventured into Cuzco for some long awaited salsa dancing and reggaeton, bringing back very pleasant memories of my life in Guatemala.
Next, we flew back to Lima, will check out the site of the "Dolphins in the Desert" program tomorrow (did you know that Peru has one of the largest dolphin populations in the world?) and the kiddies arrive late on the 9th! Phew, wish me luck!
Check out my itinerary and information regarding the other programs being run here in Peru!
https://www.rusticpathways.com/2009/peru/psv.html
Monday, June 1, 2009
The Highlights
Just a short two months ago, I was writing about being back in the States, visiting my wonderful friends and spending time in a "home" again and now... my time is up and my compass is set for Peru - My next big Adventure!
I never can believe how quickly time flies and I want to appologize for my lack of blog fodder. It is not that I haven't had much to write about, on the contrary, I've simply let the blog slip while I enjoyed the finer aspects of being in America. In an attempt to catch up and also avoid verbosity, I've collected a list of April and May's highlights.
In attempted chronological order:
I never can believe how quickly time flies and I want to appologize for my lack of blog fodder. It is not that I haven't had much to write about, on the contrary, I've simply let the blog slip while I enjoyed the finer aspects of being in America. In an attempt to catch up and also avoid verbosity, I've collected a list of April and May's highlights.
In attempted chronological order:
Utah
- Seeing Alisa, a pure light in my life, and her adorable and expressive little one, Crosby.
- Watching Crosby grow up before my eyes and getting to know D a little better.
- 'Reunion Time 2009' with a surprisingly big turnout of fellow HHS Rams, most with signifigant others and/or children in tow.
- Somewhat watching the Jazz game, but mostly catching up with Brandon and getting a lesson on iphone applications :)
- Playing Dress-up on more than one occasion, especially our entertaining 31c scoop night at Baskin Robins dressed in full Indian/Bengali regalia - Saris, bindis, bangles and all!
- Girl Talks.
- Reuniting with Gabe after 10 years!
- My first fly-fishing experience in Flaming Gorge with Mason and his brother, despite the blizzard!
- Annual visit to Red Butte Gardens and the addition of a secluded river walk.
- A Bees double-header with Steph and the infamous Travis.
- Dinner with Natalie and Drinks with Alex.
- My first round of frisbee golf.
- Introducing Brandon to Letterboxing and inventing a new game, 'Shuffle-Golf', on a green with a view, nearing midnight.
- Seeing Steele.
Oregon
- Spending more time with my good friends, Dan, Nikki, Dave, Lauren, Adam and Kate.
- Seeing Thomas again as I joined the Titanic Tour for a couple weeks of 'hard' work :)
- Alina's first Birthday party.
- New friends, Bart, Dawn, and Dixie.
- Introducing TK to letterboxing, learning to longboard, playing tennis, basketball, handball and bowling. Nalgene chocolate balls, coastal snapshots, daily blossoms and the magic wand ;)
- The Sammamish River Trail and taking Dixie for a roll.
Washington
- Spending quality time, like drives to waterfalls, with my parents.
- Playing catch in the sunshine and chatting about life with my dad.
- Rootbeer floats and washing the car with my mom.
- Dressing up for Jazz Night and seeing Laura several times.
As always, my heart goes out to all my friends. It has truly been so so nice to see you all and Im already looking forward to seeing you again. Next entry will be from the Country of Peru, my 33rd!
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