Wow. There is something so quintessential about journeying by train across the African landscape. Arthur, who has been an amazing travel companion, and I booked a compartment on the overnight train from Mombasa to Nairobi after spending 4 glorious days exploring Mombasa and relaxing on a beach north of the city in our own private cottage on the waterfront. We swam in the Ocean a couple times a day, wandered the rural villages through mud huts and forgotten pathways and even discovered an abandoned resort (an eerie shell of what was once perhaps one of the largest resorts in the area, ceilings deteriorated from mold, the pool quarter-filled with a mysterious golden liquid, spiral staircases covered in dust and broken glass and the most impressive building, built directly on a cliff above the ocean, a three bedroom house with a 270 degree view of the turquoise waters below. We bought bananas, avocado, tomatoes and a loaf of bread for about a dollar, snuck up to the master bedroom's balcony and served up a picnic with a five-star view - paradise!)
At night, after sharing a few drinks with a pair of fellow Irish travelers, I was rocked to sleep by the gentle creaking of our train car, my top bunk actually quite comfortable - like a swaying cradle. The morning suddenly began with the clanging of a bell announcing breakfast and we lifted the shade to scan for wildlife. Zebras and Gazelle were the first to be spotted :).
It feels so good to be back on the wild road. Day one of the adventure was Friday the 13th and although I am only mildly-stitious, the run of bad luck was quite obnoxious. Arthur, Dan and I had gone out dancing 'til late (highlight of the club was dancing to pop music with a Masai man decked out in full traditional dress including beaded bracelets up his arms and around his forehead :) so we pulled an all-nighter and upon arriving at the train station at 5:30am I could not find our train ticket. After a distressing period of looking for it and looking for our bus, we got everything situated and were heading north on what was supposed to be a 6hr express bus. There was no express about it. It stopped constantly, the entire journey actually took us nearly twelve hours and in the process, my shoulder bag's zipper ceased working, my flip-flop broke so I walked barefoot through Mombasa and the bus put a new hole in my backpack! What a day.
Amazingly, that night I was able to find a pair of used reef flips at a street stall for about $5 and the next day, without any fiddling, the zipper began working again! We also found some great food and a couple decent places to stay - thank goodness for Saturday the 14th :)
This summer of working for Rustic Pathways was brought to a close with a couple epic experiences. Three days of safari in the Serengeti, three days spent relaxing on the beaches of Zanzibar and two weeks of building classrooms in a tiny village near Karatu were simply Amazing! Not to mention hunting with the bushmen, participating in a local wedding and dancing at a club with a Masai warrior!
For safari (the Swahili word for journey), we packed our things onto one of the ubiquitous safari vehicles, old time landcruisers retrofitted so that the roof can raise to allow us to stand and take photos as we rumble past photogenic wildlife set against the legendary African backdrop of Acacia and Baobab trees. Even when the animals were hidden away and the landscape flattened into a broad expanse of dried grasses, it was incredibly inspiring to stand up, arms resting on the roof, camera in hand, Ancient African air whizzing around us and working it's way through my system... Searching for the actual pride rock and suddenly we would slow, shhhh, a lion, no two, no four, look at the two cubs! Truly, there is nothing like spotting these beautiful creatures in their own land. Watching them stretch, stroll, stalk and sleep - in the wild!
We slept in tents in a campground and the first night, just as I snuggled down into my sleeping bag I heard an elephant sound his trumpet not far off - SO cool! We went on game-drives twice a day for a few hours each time. One morning we awoke before the sun rose and drove to an open area to witness the day begin. A pack of spotted hyenas were already there, prowling for leftovers and our driver waved a red shawl so that they would approach us expecting meat. They were surprisingly cute! In just three days of hunting, we tracked down elephants, lions, leopards (one of which had dragged a gazelle high up into a tree for an evening feast), zebras, giraffes, ostriches, hyenas, warthogs, crocodiles, hippos, tens of thousands of gazelle, migrating herds of wildebeests, hartebeests, impalas, mongoose, jackals, waterbucks, Elands, and water buffalos! One of the highlights was visiting a hippo pool, severely receded in dry season, there must have been at least 75 hippos puzzle pieced together in a reduction of putrid sludge - approximately 4 parts waste, 4 parts rotting refuse and 2 parts leftover river-water. Hippos are apparently one of the most aggressive animals and we watched them fighting over the limited space, their massive maws emerging from the soup, stretched nearly 180 degrees, teeth bared, issuing gurgling growls and chomping down on each other. It was nice to be out of the cruiser for a time, observing the animals up close. The only animals that we wanted to see and were unable to find were cheetahs and the endangered black rhino (which I was lucky enough to spot on my next safari in the Ngorongoro Crater).
Once back to camp on our last evening, after hours sitting and standing in place, we decided to put on an impromptu Zumba session. Our guide and the other groups watched amusedly as we laughed our way through the songs. The following morning, we left camp early in order to get to the airport in time - at least a good 7 hour drive. Unfortunately, our safari vehicle had had enough and it broke down no less than four times and got a flat tire! On about our third surprise stop, we climbed out and into the middle of nowhere. As far as one could see, there were only a few speckled trees off in the distance and a nearly deserted road. Stuck in the Serengeti. I brought out catch phrase and we began passing it around in a circle. One by one, Masai began appearing on the horizon and drifting towards this strange group of wazungu (the swahili term for foreigners) passing this obnoxiously beeping plastic disc around between themselves shouting at eachother - what they must have been thinking! Soon, there were about ten adults and children standing just 5 or so feet away from our group staring at this crazy scene. Suddenly I thought, why don't we put on a show for them! We are always playing the tourist, wanting to see locals perform, why not the other way around?? I grabbed the speakers and my ipod, selected 'Shake Senora' which is an easy zumba routine and there, in the middle of the Serengeti, we shimmied and shook for a random group of Masai! It was epic.
We raced to the airport and our luck failed us once again. We narrowly missed the plane. But, our luck immediately returned when there happened to be a flight just thirty minutes later, so voila! Next thing you know, we were settling into our posh hotel rooms, canopied beds sprinkled with flowers, hot showers and balconies - fabulous! The hotel had a private beach, infinity pool facing the sunset, sports bar and fancy restaurant (that served the most delicious continental breakfast), live traditional music in the evenings, a spa (which I splurged on a special swahili scrub massage for my birthday) and a turn-down service. It was such a treat!
We spent the first day exploring Stone Town, famous for it's ornately carved wooden doors, and shopping, returning in time to take a dip in the Indian ocean, relax by the pool, watch the sunset and enjoy a candle lit dinner on the beach (I had the grilled ostrich steak :). The next day was one of pure bliss. We spent the day sailing on an African dhow to a couple different small islands including a pristine white sand bank that, by the time that we returned, had been completely submerged due to the tide. We snorkeled around coral beds through schools of shimmering fish that swirled around you like iridescent tulip petals caught in a breeze and making sure to avoid the menacing pitch black sea urchins the size of basketballs. Lunch was nothing short of manna from heaven - an all you can eat seafood selection including lobster, calamari, tuna, cod, scallops, local sauces made with tamarind and coconut and for dessert? An exotic array of fruits from the island that our guide cut open right in front of our table, one by one so that we could try them all. Sweet grapefruit, oranges, custard apples, rambutans, lady-finger bananas, red bananas, two different types of mango, passion fruit, star fruit, pineapple, sugar cane and even baobab seeds - Ahh, I'm salivating just remembering it! To wrap it all up, we were offered coffee and amarula, a sweet African liqueur and then given time to either sail on another type of boat or sunbathe. Sublime.
That night, we visited the fish market where the local fishermen BBQ their catch of the day, bake up special breads and display them in hundreds of stands set up by the waterfront. The lights and the people and the smell of BBQ make for an enchanting atmosphere. The winner of the evening was the "Zanzibar Pizza", a dough ball flattened and fried with several combinations of ingredients, my favorite being nutella and banana (the caramel mango was a close second :).
Alas, all good things come to an end and the next morning we were en route to Arusha. Yet another set of goodbyes and another set of new students arriving and just like that, another stage of the summer had begun. A whirlwind week of tasting the exotic side of Africa and my next charge was to spend two weeks living on a coffee plantation, working in a small village about 40 minutes away finishing new classrooms for the school with a group of ten students. An equally inspiring experience in an entirely different way.
I have now just arrived in Uganda and will hopefully post another 'catching up' entry soon - so many incredible experiences!
Showing posts with label rustic pathways. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rustic pathways. Show all posts
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Friday, August 6, 2010
Catchin' Up
Phew! Do I have some catching up go do! I can't believe that it's been more than a month since I stood on top of Mt. Kilimanjaro and watched the sun rise over Africa. This summer has flown by with such vivacity - a veritble whirlwind of different programs, hundreds of kids in and out of country, smiling children like autumn leaves jumping and dancing around you, football matches, mountains and rainforest and islands and vast arid planes, delicious foods including more fresh-off-the-tree avocados and bananas than you can count (actually, I have a running tally of bananas consumed, just to satisfy my curiosity :).
After Kili, I spent two weeks in the village of Poli, about 45 minutes outside of Arusha. It's a small village of approximately 2,200 people spead throughout banana groves with giant avocado trees and a few coffee bushes mixed in here and there. Most of the houses are hidden amongst the banana trees and kids would materialize, seemingly right out of said trees, to peer questioningly at the odd group of "wazungu", the swahili term for foreigners, traipsing by or to offer a cheery "Jambo!" and a wave. Often the kids would be drawn like magnets from their homes and before long we would have ten to twenty of them tagging along, listening intently to our conversations, asking and repeating our names over and over again and holding our hands. Children are just so lovable!
This was a one week program designed to connect well with either Climbing Kilimanjaro or Safari so the students can also take part in some community service and get a glimpse into Tanzanian life. Every morning, we drove from the base house to the village, the latter part up steep and deeply rutted dirt roads that turned into slip and slides any time that it rained. On more than one occasion we would have to pile out and push the bus or make the muddy trek up on foot.
We have worked closely with the directors of the school and the chairman of the village to assess the projects that will most benefit the community in the time that we have and our students have already finished and patched the veranda for the school so that the kids and teachers can pass easily from class to class when it rains, built a protective fence around the water pump, finished painting the kitchen that was built last year, stabilized and rendered walls around the school and have dug the foundation for an office building to house the village delegation.
It's a lot of hard work, mixing cement, carrying buckets of water and wheelbarrows of sand and rocks, but when the village kids pitch in, it makes everything seem easier and our students quickly gain an appreciation for this rustic way of life.
Each Saturday we joined the local football club in a rowdy match, chasing the ball up and down the uneven and pitted field, somewhat more reminiscent of of pinball machine than the smooth passing of the World Cup teams that we watched nearly every evening. High fives and tid bits of swahili were exchanged, friends and memories were made.
The first week, I had a group comprised entirely of girls and at some point, it was discovered that I had taught Zumba. Next thing you know, they all woke up early for an introductory Zumba lesson with me on the front lawn! The next week, we had a couple boys that joined in, one of whom reluctantly tried a step or two before getting into his own work out :). It was fun leading a 'class' again and getting in a little extra excersize besides the service work and occasional morning jog. The students also get to spend an afternoon with one of the families cooking traditional food, which is one of the highlights of the week. They are invited into Poli homes, stir locally grown beans and corn with utensils carved from the local trees and eat 3 different dishes out of these unique, beautiful little bowls with handles. I even commissioned one from the lady that teaches the students how to weave baskets out of banana tree skin (I got one of those as well! :).
Throughout my time working with Rustic Pathways, I cannot help but be a wee bit envious of these teens. I have been so blessed myself, with everything that I have been able to do and see, but just imagine if I had been able to begin my exploration of the world when I was sixteen! It is so nice to work with kids that really recognize the opportunities that they are being given and are in awe of the experience and likewise, it is equally distressing to meet kids that are already jaded at such a young age with a been-there-done-that, 'when do I get to go to my summer house in the Hamptons' mentality.
Speaking of the kids though, every summer I learn how far out of the teen loop that I've become. I like to think that I stay up on popular terms and I'm aware of current websites/youtube videos/pop culture (except when it comes to hollywood), but each year I am proved sadly out of date. Did you know that "wheeling" meant making-out or that "mobbin" meant going really fast? "Mons" means really big (as in short for monstrous), "witchita" is used for give me as in "witchta the eggs please" and words like jank, and bomb are the new over-used slang. Ha, what an entertaining education I get as each group exchanges the latest lingo from their respective regions.
Highlights from my three seperate Safaris, Zanzibar Paradise and my last two weeks of community service in a village up north soon to come!
After Kili, I spent two weeks in the village of Poli, about 45 minutes outside of Arusha. It's a small village of approximately 2,200 people spead throughout banana groves with giant avocado trees and a few coffee bushes mixed in here and there. Most of the houses are hidden amongst the banana trees and kids would materialize, seemingly right out of said trees, to peer questioningly at the odd group of "wazungu", the swahili term for foreigners, traipsing by or to offer a cheery "Jambo!" and a wave. Often the kids would be drawn like magnets from their homes and before long we would have ten to twenty of them tagging along, listening intently to our conversations, asking and repeating our names over and over again and holding our hands. Children are just so lovable!
This was a one week program designed to connect well with either Climbing Kilimanjaro or Safari so the students can also take part in some community service and get a glimpse into Tanzanian life. Every morning, we drove from the base house to the village, the latter part up steep and deeply rutted dirt roads that turned into slip and slides any time that it rained. On more than one occasion we would have to pile out and push the bus or make the muddy trek up on foot.
We have worked closely with the directors of the school and the chairman of the village to assess the projects that will most benefit the community in the time that we have and our students have already finished and patched the veranda for the school so that the kids and teachers can pass easily from class to class when it rains, built a protective fence around the water pump, finished painting the kitchen that was built last year, stabilized and rendered walls around the school and have dug the foundation for an office building to house the village delegation.
It's a lot of hard work, mixing cement, carrying buckets of water and wheelbarrows of sand and rocks, but when the village kids pitch in, it makes everything seem easier and our students quickly gain an appreciation for this rustic way of life.
Each Saturday we joined the local football club in a rowdy match, chasing the ball up and down the uneven and pitted field, somewhat more reminiscent of of pinball machine than the smooth passing of the World Cup teams that we watched nearly every evening. High fives and tid bits of swahili were exchanged, friends and memories were made.
The first week, I had a group comprised entirely of girls and at some point, it was discovered that I had taught Zumba. Next thing you know, they all woke up early for an introductory Zumba lesson with me on the front lawn! The next week, we had a couple boys that joined in, one of whom reluctantly tried a step or two before getting into his own work out :). It was fun leading a 'class' again and getting in a little extra excersize besides the service work and occasional morning jog. The students also get to spend an afternoon with one of the families cooking traditional food, which is one of the highlights of the week. They are invited into Poli homes, stir locally grown beans and corn with utensils carved from the local trees and eat 3 different dishes out of these unique, beautiful little bowls with handles. I even commissioned one from the lady that teaches the students how to weave baskets out of banana tree skin (I got one of those as well! :).
Throughout my time working with Rustic Pathways, I cannot help but be a wee bit envious of these teens. I have been so blessed myself, with everything that I have been able to do and see, but just imagine if I had been able to begin my exploration of the world when I was sixteen! It is so nice to work with kids that really recognize the opportunities that they are being given and are in awe of the experience and likewise, it is equally distressing to meet kids that are already jaded at such a young age with a been-there-done-that, 'when do I get to go to my summer house in the Hamptons' mentality.
Speaking of the kids though, every summer I learn how far out of the teen loop that I've become. I like to think that I stay up on popular terms and I'm aware of current websites/youtube videos/pop culture (except when it comes to hollywood), but each year I am proved sadly out of date. Did you know that "wheeling" meant making-out or that "mobbin" meant going really fast? "Mons" means really big (as in short for monstrous), "witchita" is used for give me as in "witchta the eggs please" and words like jank, and bomb are the new over-used slang. Ha, what an entertaining education I get as each group exchanges the latest lingo from their respective regions.
Highlights from my three seperate Safaris, Zanzibar Paradise and my last two weeks of community service in a village up north soon to come!
Friday, June 25, 2010
Snows of Kilimanjaro
The bookcase in our staffroom has a nice little collection, including several Africa and Tanzania specific additions. Although I brought a book with me, I set that aside for when I start traveling on my own and instead picked up 'The Snows of Kilimanjaro' by Ernest Hemingway. What better inspiration to absorb before setting out on my own journey up the legendary mountain? Unfortunately, the story was, as far as I could tell because I only managed to get about half way through it, only set in Africa, somewhere near the mountain and had nothing else to do with it. The main characters were annoying and the timeline jumped arbitrarily between past and present... I hear the man dies in the end. I still plan on finishing it at some point despite having started another book, but as much as the book itself was a disappointment, Mount Kilimanjaro, the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, was anything but.
Twenty students arrived late Wednesday night and after a quick briefing, tried to get some sleep before an early start the next day. My fellow Rustic guide, Taylor, one of our two Kili guides, Everest and I checked the gear of each of our 4 climbers, 3 girls and a boy. Just our luck, the only student to have lost luggage, was one of our Kili girls so we had to scramble to get enough gear together for her to at least begin the hike. I didn't tell her that it took six days to recover mine!
A two and a half hour drive brought us to the base of our trek and after some time getting permits arranged, we dove into the rainforest. Throughout the trek, we traverse 4 different climate zones which is one of the most impressive parts of the hike. The trail is well developed in the beginning and set up for day hikers as well. Lush green vines, tree trunks covered in moss and thin fluttering leaves that gave them the appearance of giant bird necks craning to see above the canopy. The dirt was a deep purple-red and roots criss-crossing the trail were the vericose veins of this vibrant scene.
We arrived at the first camp after about 5 hours of hiking. Since the kids were a bit jet-lagged it was a tiring walk and we were all looking forward to settling in to our cute little A-frame huts for a good nights sleep - after of course, a delicious feast cooked by our wonderful Kili cook Samson. A thick mist slid in during the night and greeted us at our doorstep. Breakfast was yet another feast. Tea, hot cocoa or coffee, Porridge, toast with jam, honey, peanutbutter, butter, scrambled eggs, fresh fruit and even a little meat! Nice and full for the next 6 hour hike.
This time, it only took us about half an hour to climb above the damp, rainforest and enter the 'heather and moorland' region. Quite suddenly we found ourselves on a much drier, sage and heather lined path with small bunches of wild flowers sprinkled about. Everything opened up as we left the green behind and made our way into an area reminiscent of the American southwest. We were given delicious pack lunches each day augmented by hot soup - yummm soup! Night two was spent at Horombo camp. The six of us enjoying a rowdy game of catchphrase until we were joined by a breakdancing Japanese guy who seemed to savor the opportunity to practice his english. Ahh catchphrase never fails to bring people together :).
Day three was a day of aclimization so we slept in and took an easy hour and a half stroll up to a place called Zebra Rocks. Heavy clouds rolled across the land again and after relaxing and playing on the boulders for a while we returned to camp, ate, cuddled up in our bags and took turns making up the most entertaining story about Tina and Terry, a brother and sister who had lost their parents and got mixed up with a pirate alien and ate magical foods (namely a grilled cheese sandwich and 'black cow' shake that the girls had been craving), that transported them through a mysterious vortex and I musn't forget their bumbling Uncle Taylor that became a hero anytime it was Taylor's turn :).
Day four, the mists turned to rain and after water-proofing ourselves and our gear we set off for the final camp. This time, we walked through an expanse of dirt and rock, very little vegetation and a couple hours in were guarded on either side by Uhuru peak (the highest, which we would be climbing) and Mwenzi peak (striking a majestic sillouhette, a very technical climb which few attempt). Staring into the white void ahead, we would occasionally see a dark pinpoint materialize. Slowing gaining size as we approached eachother the pinpoint would take form, two moving legs, a torso enlarged by a backpack, a head and always a massive bundle perched precariously atop. The porters (of which our group alone had 12, two per person!), amazed me not only with their stamina, but also with their finely tuned balancing act, carrying woven baskets, plastic jugs and huge duffles on top of their heads, with such ease that they almost seemed to forget about the load all together!
The sun finally stepped in and scared away the clouds so that we could finally see our goal. Once at Kibo hut, the students rested and I set off for some bouldering to take in the sunset. I am grateful that as of yet, I have not been much affected by high altitude so despite breathing being a little more difficult I felt wonderful. Being in such beautiful places, the feeling of freedom rendered by the scenery and the daily hiking routine is just so uplifting! I felt so content... and lucky! One of our students however was feeling the pressure and struggled to sleep with an intense headache. After an early dinner, we all tried to force ourselves to sleep around 7pm, quite the challenge for me, and in the end I think I got about an hour's worth before the 11pm wakeup call.
This was the moment! We pulled on as many layers as we could, had a small breakfast of tea and cookies and gathered outside the hut to begin our ascent. We were very fortunate to have a clear sky, the stars lent their sparkles for something to climb towards and "pole pole" or "slowly slowly" we inched up the steep incline. The night before, the climbers had been faced with rain the entire way up, which made the slopes very slick and they even had snowfall at the top! Many more were thwarted by the weather so despite the difficulty, it could have been much worse.
About an hour and a half into the hike, the student who had been most affected by the altitude could not continue and had to return to camp. That left us with 5 to forge onward. Step by step, sometimes excruciateingly slow, we climbed. Our water bottles froze so we had extras wrapped in clothing inside our packs, but my fingertips froze as well inspite of the three pairs of gloves. I had brought a set of toe warmers so my feet, in my little ol' running shoes and an excellent pair of hiking socks stayed warm until just about an hour from the summit. My lips actually froze and when trying to issue words of encouragement, I ended up sounding like my entire mouth had been shot full of novicane. I am SO very proud of the girls! They battled their way up that mountain, little by little, passing other groups and we were rewarded with a brilliant redish-orange band across the horizon heralding the rising of the sun that poked its first few rays above just as we were reaching Uhuru... Freedom (in swahili)!
Exhausted, but happy, we rested on the rocks, took a few obligatory photos and began the descent. The girls had put every last drop of energy into the climb so coming down was slow and tedious. I stayed behind with the last student, a very cool, down to earth and tough girl who had to call on that mysterious energy reserve that I became all too familiar with in my descent from Huyana Potosi. The intense sun did not help and once we finally arrived back at the hut, everyone had collapsed in their beds uninterested in food, only sleep. Unfortunately, we could not afford that luxury. By the time I arrived, the others had rested some, but it was time to pack up, eat a quick lunch and hike back to the second camp, both to sleep at a lower altitude and to be closer to the base for the following day. I can't say that there were too many smiles after reaching the summit that day. Drained and groggy (I actually felt surprisingly well, boosted by the memory of the adventure) the students, Taylor and I retraced our steps to the second camp for a total of about 15 straight hours of hiking. Phew! After yet another delicious meal (at this point, the students were all souped out, but I don't think that could ever happen to me! :), this was one night that I had no problem falling asleep early!
I awoke very early in the morning to a massive bottom lip. A combination of the cold and the sun had severely damaged my poor lip and it felt as if it was about to pop - a free gift from the mountain, Kilimanjaro colligen. It took several hours for the swelling to subside, but it was still very dry, tender and tingly. Our final day of hiking down went quickly and after the open moorland and the rainforest slid by, we found ourselves passing under the gate, conquerors of Kili, and salivating over a hot shower.
Three of my climbers flew home the next day, their African adventure complete. One is staying another week to work in one of the villages, luckily the same program that I am now working on and yet another batch of students have arrived. For the next two weeks, I'll be doing development work in a small village, set in the midst of banana and avocado trees, outside Arusha called Poli. I have all girls this week and they seem like a great bunch already. Internet is still frustratingly limited so I've prewritten this and will cross my fingers that it sends at one point!
For more photos, check out my facebook album - Jambo from Africa!
Twenty students arrived late Wednesday night and after a quick briefing, tried to get some sleep before an early start the next day. My fellow Rustic guide, Taylor, one of our two Kili guides, Everest and I checked the gear of each of our 4 climbers, 3 girls and a boy. Just our luck, the only student to have lost luggage, was one of our Kili girls so we had to scramble to get enough gear together for her to at least begin the hike. I didn't tell her that it took six days to recover mine!
A two and a half hour drive brought us to the base of our trek and after some time getting permits arranged, we dove into the rainforest. Throughout the trek, we traverse 4 different climate zones which is one of the most impressive parts of the hike. The trail is well developed in the beginning and set up for day hikers as well. Lush green vines, tree trunks covered in moss and thin fluttering leaves that gave them the appearance of giant bird necks craning to see above the canopy. The dirt was a deep purple-red and roots criss-crossing the trail were the vericose veins of this vibrant scene.
We arrived at the first camp after about 5 hours of hiking. Since the kids were a bit jet-lagged it was a tiring walk and we were all looking forward to settling in to our cute little A-frame huts for a good nights sleep - after of course, a delicious feast cooked by our wonderful Kili cook Samson. A thick mist slid in during the night and greeted us at our doorstep. Breakfast was yet another feast. Tea, hot cocoa or coffee, Porridge, toast with jam, honey, peanutbutter, butter, scrambled eggs, fresh fruit and even a little meat! Nice and full for the next 6 hour hike.
This time, it only took us about half an hour to climb above the damp, rainforest and enter the 'heather and moorland' region. Quite suddenly we found ourselves on a much drier, sage and heather lined path with small bunches of wild flowers sprinkled about. Everything opened up as we left the green behind and made our way into an area reminiscent of the American southwest. We were given delicious pack lunches each day augmented by hot soup - yummm soup! Night two was spent at Horombo camp. The six of us enjoying a rowdy game of catchphrase until we were joined by a breakdancing Japanese guy who seemed to savor the opportunity to practice his english. Ahh catchphrase never fails to bring people together :).
Day three was a day of aclimization so we slept in and took an easy hour and a half stroll up to a place called Zebra Rocks. Heavy clouds rolled across the land again and after relaxing and playing on the boulders for a while we returned to camp, ate, cuddled up in our bags and took turns making up the most entertaining story about Tina and Terry, a brother and sister who had lost their parents and got mixed up with a pirate alien and ate magical foods (namely a grilled cheese sandwich and 'black cow' shake that the girls had been craving), that transported them through a mysterious vortex and I musn't forget their bumbling Uncle Taylor that became a hero anytime it was Taylor's turn :).
Day four, the mists turned to rain and after water-proofing ourselves and our gear we set off for the final camp. This time, we walked through an expanse of dirt and rock, very little vegetation and a couple hours in were guarded on either side by Uhuru peak (the highest, which we would be climbing) and Mwenzi peak (striking a majestic sillouhette, a very technical climb which few attempt). Staring into the white void ahead, we would occasionally see a dark pinpoint materialize. Slowing gaining size as we approached eachother the pinpoint would take form, two moving legs, a torso enlarged by a backpack, a head and always a massive bundle perched precariously atop. The porters (of which our group alone had 12, two per person!), amazed me not only with their stamina, but also with their finely tuned balancing act, carrying woven baskets, plastic jugs and huge duffles on top of their heads, with such ease that they almost seemed to forget about the load all together!
The sun finally stepped in and scared away the clouds so that we could finally see our goal. Once at Kibo hut, the students rested and I set off for some bouldering to take in the sunset. I am grateful that as of yet, I have not been much affected by high altitude so despite breathing being a little more difficult I felt wonderful. Being in such beautiful places, the feeling of freedom rendered by the scenery and the daily hiking routine is just so uplifting! I felt so content... and lucky! One of our students however was feeling the pressure and struggled to sleep with an intense headache. After an early dinner, we all tried to force ourselves to sleep around 7pm, quite the challenge for me, and in the end I think I got about an hour's worth before the 11pm wakeup call.
This was the moment! We pulled on as many layers as we could, had a small breakfast of tea and cookies and gathered outside the hut to begin our ascent. We were very fortunate to have a clear sky, the stars lent their sparkles for something to climb towards and "pole pole" or "slowly slowly" we inched up the steep incline. The night before, the climbers had been faced with rain the entire way up, which made the slopes very slick and they even had snowfall at the top! Many more were thwarted by the weather so despite the difficulty, it could have been much worse.
About an hour and a half into the hike, the student who had been most affected by the altitude could not continue and had to return to camp. That left us with 5 to forge onward. Step by step, sometimes excruciateingly slow, we climbed. Our water bottles froze so we had extras wrapped in clothing inside our packs, but my fingertips froze as well inspite of the three pairs of gloves. I had brought a set of toe warmers so my feet, in my little ol' running shoes and an excellent pair of hiking socks stayed warm until just about an hour from the summit. My lips actually froze and when trying to issue words of encouragement, I ended up sounding like my entire mouth had been shot full of novicane. I am SO very proud of the girls! They battled their way up that mountain, little by little, passing other groups and we were rewarded with a brilliant redish-orange band across the horizon heralding the rising of the sun that poked its first few rays above just as we were reaching Uhuru... Freedom (in swahili)!
Exhausted, but happy, we rested on the rocks, took a few obligatory photos and began the descent. The girls had put every last drop of energy into the climb so coming down was slow and tedious. I stayed behind with the last student, a very cool, down to earth and tough girl who had to call on that mysterious energy reserve that I became all too familiar with in my descent from Huyana Potosi. The intense sun did not help and once we finally arrived back at the hut, everyone had collapsed in their beds uninterested in food, only sleep. Unfortunately, we could not afford that luxury. By the time I arrived, the others had rested some, but it was time to pack up, eat a quick lunch and hike back to the second camp, both to sleep at a lower altitude and to be closer to the base for the following day. I can't say that there were too many smiles after reaching the summit that day. Drained and groggy (I actually felt surprisingly well, boosted by the memory of the adventure) the students, Taylor and I retraced our steps to the second camp for a total of about 15 straight hours of hiking. Phew! After yet another delicious meal (at this point, the students were all souped out, but I don't think that could ever happen to me! :), this was one night that I had no problem falling asleep early!
I awoke very early in the morning to a massive bottom lip. A combination of the cold and the sun had severely damaged my poor lip and it felt as if it was about to pop - a free gift from the mountain, Kilimanjaro colligen. It took several hours for the swelling to subside, but it was still very dry, tender and tingly. Our final day of hiking down went quickly and after the open moorland and the rainforest slid by, we found ourselves passing under the gate, conquerors of Kili, and salivating over a hot shower.
Three of my climbers flew home the next day, their African adventure complete. One is staying another week to work in one of the villages, luckily the same program that I am now working on and yet another batch of students have arrived. For the next two weeks, I'll be doing development work in a small village, set in the midst of banana and avocado trees, outside Arusha called Poli. I have all girls this week and they seem like a great bunch already. Internet is still frustratingly limited so I've prewritten this and will cross my fingers that it sends at one point!
For more photos, check out my facebook album - Jambo from Africa!
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
On the (Peruvian) road again
It is wonderful to be back out wandering the world! It has officially been one week since I saw my last group off at the airport and the urge to turn around the count my now non-existant ducklings has started to fade, I have no schedule, no obligations, no sickness to mother, no massive med-kit to carry around for that matter... ahhh, it's good to be free! That's not to say I don't miss Rustic a little. I met some great kids and my work in the Sacred Valley along with the people truly have changed, I should say, improved my already blessed life. Nevertheless, the open road retains it's siren song and I've got three months and so much to see!
Thus far, I've decompressed a little in Lima. I spent a night at a fellow guide's family's house, perusing their impressive library of books, CDs and DVDs and chatting over a glass or two of wine. It was so refreshing to be around people my age for a change! The following morning, another RP guide and I began a day of indulgence including TWO movies in the theatre and several 'special treats'. I also picked up a surprise birthday package from my incredibly thoughtful friend Stephanie - thank you again dear!!
Next up, a 17 hour bus ride to the charming city of Arequipa just in time for their anniversary celebrations. On the way I met Ian who was just beginning his first backpacking trip outside the states and we joined forces to find a place to stay and take in the festivities. We witnessed the longest parade either of us had ever seen! Already in full swing when we arrived at 1pm, the groups of dancers, marching bands, costumed characters, and floats from various countries stomped, twirled, waved and rolled by until well past 8pm! What a show! The next morning we met yet another RP staff and wandered the city. Arequipa, depite being Peru's second largest city, is relatively quiet and very clean. A grandiose main plaza, chock full of people, palm trees, a fountain, surrounded by colonial archways and flanked by an imposing cathedral and glistens gold at night is one of my favorite places to pass time so far!
We parted ways the next day and I joined a tour into the Colca Canyon. A heated debate still rages as to whether it is the world's deepest at 3501mts, but it is also famous for it's population of condors. Along the way, we passed several points where people had paused to stack rocks upon one another, sometimes thousands of stone towers decorated the roadside. I love seeing these cairns, evidence of careful humans wanting to leave a something behind in recognition of their momentary presence. What I hate, is seeing plastic bottles and other trash lying next to them as proof of careless humans and their unfortunately, less than momentary effect on the land.
Normally, I eschew tours with a preference to see places on my own time. In this case, I had been told that the tour was worth it, so I joined a herd. Besides being called the "latin lovers" by our guide and the obligatory stops at points at which ladies, dressed in "traditional costume", hawked kitch, it wasn't that bad and I did learn about the area that I would have otherwise just driven through. The second day, at the Cruz del Condor viewpoint, I sat on a cliff ledge for about an hour watching these majestic birds with wingspans up to 3mts, swoop and glide under, over and around me. My whole body seemed to be searching for the ability to sprout wings and leap off to join them!
Now back in Arequipa, I'm going to spend one more day here before I take an overnight bus back to Cusco. I've decided to go out of my way and return to the Sacred Valley early in order to attend a big pachamanca planned for the two villages that we worked in over the summer. It is the first step in developing a working relationship between the communities for the raising and marketing of their guinea pigs. I don't want to miss it!
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Sparkling Socma
It's near 11pm and the kids are still playing on the field. Some of my students have retired to their tents after a long work day peeling bamboo, mixing and lifting mud to the roof and laying tiles. Nevertheless the football continues to bounce back and forth between goals with the aid of floodlights... floodlights? My boss and I stayed up well past 1am going through photos for the Rustic catalogue on his laptop... laptop? In Socma??
A transformation has occured in this tiny humble village. They have taken a giant step forward and with the financial and logistical partnership between Rustic Pathways and the Urubamba municipal government, there is now electricity in Socma! Once again, I feel so incredibly lucky to be a part of this historical and life-changing project, however small. My thanks and admiration go out to Alex, Max, Gabe, Juan and Jessemin who initiated, facilitated and made this all possible for these people, my Peruvian family.
This past weekend was one of much celebrating in the form of dancing, dining and drinking (who could ask for more? :). Not only was Saturday the 1st, the inauguration of the electricification, something almost 2 years in the making, but it coincided with Aug 2nd, the anniversary of Socma. Two straight days of festivities with entire neighboring villages coming to take part.
Friday was the first official day that light began streaming from the one bulb that had been installed in town. Late at night, while enjoying our candlelit dinner a beam burst through the window and despite knowing the power would be coming soon, we sat for a moment in confusion. Was it a truck coming up the way? Someone's flashlight? Nope, the municipality had indeed followed through and Socma was alight! Once the kids went to bed, I was invited out back to share a crate of beers that had been bought for the occasion. Now, I'm not allowed to drink at all while the kids are in my care for obvious reasons - obvious to most, but not to them. "Come on! Big occasion! Historical moment! Part of the family! Just a little (never!)". You simply cannot say no. It is a sticky cultural situation. It is very special for me to sit among the community heads, my co-guide Max, one of the DJs from Urubamba and discuss many poignent subjects while Socma's first light enveloped our little group and it took all my slyness to pour most of the bottles out behind me between conspicuous sips and saluds! I went to bed that night with, for the first time, a glow embracing my tent and wonder sparkling in my imagination as to what this development meant for my little Socma.
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I never did get a Birthday Adventure entry up. So much is happening down here, I can hardly keep up with it on the ground let alone in cyberspace. At the risk of losing much of the excitement and energy, the detail and pure love of that wonderful day, suffice it to say that it was one of the best birthdays that I have ever had
in my life. Some of the kids that I am closest to got up early to decorate the room where we eat breakfast with streamers and balloons and even made special sweet tamales and punch for everyone! I found out later that they have to peel each individual kernel of corn by hand and grind it into flour - its takes forever! While we ate, more kids ran out and decorated my tent. That afternoon I was whisked into a field and given yarn braid extensions, only to don the entire costume that evening before dinner, much to their delight :). Music played and everyone danced. I was presented two handmade dolls, a pair of handknitted leg warmers two bracelets and flowers. Several ladies cooked a special dinner for me and the students... I was overwhelmed by it all! I literally danced until I could barely stand and fell asleep with harp and flute still ringing in my ears!
A transformation has occured in this tiny humble village. They have taken a giant step forward and with the financial and logistical partnership between Rustic Pathways and the Urubamba municipal government, there is now electricity in Socma! Once again, I feel so incredibly lucky to be a part of this historical and life-changing project, however small. My thanks and admiration go out to Alex, Max, Gabe, Juan and Jessemin who initiated, facilitated and made this all possible for these people, my Peruvian family.
This past weekend was one of much celebrating in the form of dancing, dining and drinking (who could ask for more? :). Not only was Saturday the 1st, the inauguration of the electricification, something almost 2 years in the making, but it coincided with Aug 2nd, the anniversary of Socma. Two straight days of festivities with entire neighboring villages coming to take part.
Friday was the first official day that light began streaming from the one bulb that had been installed in town. Late at night, while enjoying our candlelit dinner a beam burst through the window and despite knowing the power would be coming soon, we sat for a moment in confusion. Was it a truck coming up the way? Someone's flashlight? Nope, the municipality had indeed followed through and Socma was alight! Once the kids went to bed, I was invited out back to share a crate of beers that had been bought for the occasion. Now, I'm not allowed to drink at all while the kids are in my care for obvious reasons - obvious to most, but not to them. "Come on! Big occasion! Historical moment! Part of the family! Just a little (never!)". You simply cannot say no. It is a sticky cultural situation. It is very special for me to sit among the community heads, my co-guide Max, one of the DJs from Urubamba and discuss many poignent subjects while Socma's first light enveloped our little group and it took all my slyness to pour most of the bottles out behind me between conspicuous sips and saluds! I went to bed that night with, for the first time, a glow embracing my tent and wonder sparkling in my imagination as to what this development meant for my little Socma.
------------------------
I never did get a Birthday Adventure entry up. So much is happening down here, I can hardly keep up with it on the ground let alone in cyberspace. At the risk of losing much of the excitement and energy, the detail and pure love of that wonderful day, suffice it to say that it was one of the best birthdays that I have ever had
in my life. Some of the kids that I am closest to got up early to decorate the room where we eat breakfast with streamers and balloons and even made special sweet tamales and punch for everyone! I found out later that they have to peel each individual kernel of corn by hand and grind it into flour - its takes forever! While we ate, more kids ran out and decorated my tent. That afternoon I was whisked into a field and given yarn braid extensions, only to don the entire costume that evening before dinner, much to their delight :). Music played and everyone danced. I was presented two handmade dolls, a pair of handknitted leg warmers two bracelets and flowers. Several ladies cooked a special dinner for me and the students... I was overwhelmed by it all! I literally danced until I could barely stand and fell asleep with harp and flute still ringing in my ears!
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Rustic Fundraising
Buenos dias de Peru! I hope this message finds you well and enjoying your summer in contrast to the chilly winter down here. Rather than regale you with tales of adventure, I'm writing to extend a philanthropic request.As many of you know, I've been working for a company called Rustic Pathways (www.rusticpathways.com) which provides opportunities of travel, cultural exchange and service work for highschool students from around the world. This is the same company that I worked for in New Orleans and India. Having a chance to guide these kids at a pivotal time in their lives has been both a challenge and one of the most rewarding experiences of my life.
In Peru's Sacred Valley, you'll find another smaller hidden valley with several tiny villages such as Camicancha and Socma, where Rustic Pathways is currently based. These villages are home to 20-50 families each and they are tight-knit communities that live off the land, use the barter system in the markets for life's necessities and, if the families are lucky enough to sell any additional goods, they may have enough to send a child or two to school. The village schoolhouses only serve children until about the age of 8.Rustic Pathways is a fantastic program that it is an honor to be a part of. This year however, I've discovered a need for assistance. As we all know, the economy has affected everybody and Rustic Pathways has also been impacted with registration for most programs falling significantly. As a result, the project which was designed based on the success of building bathrooms for each family last year, is simply not possible.
This year’s project was designed to help develop a sustainable income and improve the quality of life. Each family that chose to participate would work in conjunction with students to build a guinea pig coop (the domestication of which has been in Peru for more than 4000 years). From start to finish they’d work together, overcoming language and cultural barriers, mixing adobe
mud with their bare feet, making and placing the bricks to form walls, peeling bamboo to lay across the roof and finally using the mud mortar to attach the roof tiles. The students would also shuck corn in the community fields and cut the first alfalfa to be fed to their guinea pigs, not to mention play soccer and other games with the children, learn Quechua and sometimes teach English. Both sides benefit greatly, not only for the 8 work days, but through a long lasting impression of the power of one person, the difference you can make no matter your age, juxtaposed with the power of many, of community, of humanity.
The idea to provide a means of income for these families through the building of a coop, purchasing 7 guinea pigs, and alfalfa seed for each, was received so well by the municipality that they joined us in partnership and promised to provide the doors and windows for every coop that we built! We had more than 45 families ask to participate; they need only lay the foundation.
Since Rustic Pathways received fewer students and, thus, less funding than expected, we had to scale back the plan, only building a coop for every family that had already prepared their foundation. After a warm reception and a special pachamanca meal, I attended the meeting with the village heads at which the news was broken. Although they understood that is was out of our control, it was impossible to mask their disappointment. Even worse, when they came up with a list of 19 families, anxiously awaiting the students, we found we only had funding for 16. Three families had to be cut from the list and tears were shed in drawing the fateful line through those names.
It was that moment, my heart so profoundly touched, that I was determined to help.
The cost of an entire coop, building supplies, tools, bamboo rods, support poles, roof tiles, the skylight and of course the guinea pigs is a mere $200usd. Once built, the municipality will not only supply the doors and windows, but continue to provide veterinary support for the animals as well as alfalfa seed. The gestation period of a guinea pig is 3 months and the she is ready to impregnate again just 2 hours after giving birth (to 2-5 babies)! Again, we are not introducing anything new and invasive to these communities. There is evidence to the raising of guinea pigs in Peru since at least 2000 BC and it is now even more practical since the tourist industry places such high demand for guinea pigs - it's a must have on every menu, which means there is even a future potential for export! I am asking you my friends, from the bottom of my heart, for a donation of any amount towards this worthy project. Whether it be $5 or $50, to be able to build those three remaining coops would mean so much to me and this community.
If you would like to donate, the easiest way is to do so directly through the Rustic Pathways foundation (www.rusticpathways.org), which is tax deductable (for those in the states :). No amount is too small and anything left over will either be used to build more coops next summer or for the sister project that Rustic is working on - that of bringing electricity to Socma. Eventually we would like to get a couple of computers for the school to improve the education of the little Socmans. 
Thank you so much for taking the time to read through this. Let me know if you have any questions and I send a big hug from South America! 
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Can you imagine?
Imagine teaching a 10 year old salsa steps. Now set yourself in a poor rural village, late at night where the boy's giant grin radiates the starlight and his eyes sparkle with excitement and the recognition that he's learning something from outside his small world. Now add an American student next to you, simultaneously learning from you, teaching another young child and getting an invaluable cultural experience.
Imagine living in a tiny community of 30 or so families, of whom a few speak a foriegn language that you understand and most only speak a truly foreign language that you are slowing picking up phrase by phrase. Imagine the moment that these generally polite, quiet and somewhat shy women gift you a nonverbal sign of acceptance by allowing you to help them cook a special meal. They hand you an unrecognized red vegetable to grate into a gourd as well as many approving smiles, while the guinea pig roasts on the spit next to you.
Ahh, the suprises! Imagine a makeshift fourth of July celebration, surprising the kids in front of a jungle waterfall at the base of Machu Picchu with firecrackers and confetti. How about surprising a student who came for her first time to Peru after having been adopted from the country as a baby, with a special role in the coop inauguration ceremony - breaking a clay pot of chicha with the mayor over the first doorway. Try a birthday surprise for one of the students of a candled cake, a card and clanging pot and plans! Even I get surprises when a couple students decide to replace my half-dead headphones with a new set - how sweet!
Can you imagine me giving an interview on the radio, being broadcast to the entire Urubamba valley, speaking about the project and such subjects as sustainable development, cultural exchange, construction of guinea pig coops and our partnership with the municipality... all en español !!? Well, I did! :)
This last group of kids were an awesome bunch. A diverse set of personalities that, for the most part, worked well together. It makes all the difference in the world to have kids that are aware of the impact that they are making, are interested in learning about where they are, the history, the future, simply put, they care. I'm sending another big thanks y un abrazo fuerte de Peru to each of them!
I'm writing this entry from Huacachina, an honest to goodness oasis. A blue lagoon surrounded by mountainous sand dunes, beckoning to be played on... and so I shall :) If bungee jumping off the highest jump in the Americas was not enough of a birthday adventure (although I must say it was quite possible the most thrilling and frightful moment of my life - more than skydiving!), then I thought I'd try a flight over the enigmatic nasca lines (sitting as co-pilot :) coupled with an afternoon of sandboarding! I know this year I am a little early, but I'll be spending my actual birthday back in Socma with the next group, perhaps not an adventure, but nevertheless with the potential of being one of my best bithdays ever! We're throwing un gran fiesta for the village, replete with confetti, music, cake and I'm hoping to track down a piñata as well! All the trappings to usher in my 28th... ach, I can't believe it!!
Imagine living in a tiny community of 30 or so families, of whom a few speak a foriegn language that you understand and most only speak a truly foreign language that you are slowing picking up phrase by phrase. Imagine the moment that these generally polite, quiet and somewhat shy women gift you a nonverbal sign of acceptance by allowing you to help them cook a special meal. They hand you an unrecognized red vegetable to grate into a gourd as well as many approving smiles, while the guinea pig roasts on the spit next to you.
Ahh, the suprises! Imagine a makeshift fourth of July celebration, surprising the kids in front of a jungle waterfall at the base of Machu Picchu with firecrackers and confetti. How about surprising a student who came for her first time to Peru after having been adopted from the country as a baby, with a special role in the coop inauguration ceremony - breaking a clay pot of chicha with the mayor over the first doorway. Try a birthday surprise for one of the students of a candled cake, a card and clanging pot and plans! Even I get surprises when a couple students decide to replace my half-dead headphones with a new set - how sweet!
Can you imagine me giving an interview on the radio, being broadcast to the entire Urubamba valley, speaking about the project and such subjects as sustainable development, cultural exchange, construction of guinea pig coops and our partnership with the municipality... all en español !!? Well, I did! :)
This last group of kids were an awesome bunch. A diverse set of personalities that, for the most part, worked well together. It makes all the difference in the world to have kids that are aware of the impact that they are making, are interested in learning about where they are, the history, the future, simply put, they care. I'm sending another big thanks y un abrazo fuerte de Peru to each of them!
I'm writing this entry from Huacachina, an honest to goodness oasis. A blue lagoon surrounded by mountainous sand dunes, beckoning to be played on... and so I shall :) If bungee jumping off the highest jump in the Americas was not enough of a birthday adventure (although I must say it was quite possible the most thrilling and frightful moment of my life - more than skydiving!), then I thought I'd try a flight over the enigmatic nasca lines (sitting as co-pilot :) coupled with an afternoon of sandboarding! I know this year I am a little early, but I'll be spending my actual birthday back in Socma with the next group, perhaps not an adventure, but nevertheless with the potential of being one of my best bithdays ever! We're throwing un gran fiesta for the village, replete with confetti, music, cake and I'm hoping to track down a piñata as well! All the trappings to usher in my 28th... ach, I can't believe it!!
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Magnificent Machu Picchu
After days of hard work, mixing mud to build their coops, the kids mix in a day of adventure, leaving their tents behind, mountain biking through scenic countryside and villages, rafting down the world famous Urubamba river and perusing the markets, not to mention a nice hot shower in town. Rested and clean, they return rejuvinated to Socma to complete the building with their families, which is a process I feel very fortunate to be a part of. What a sense of accomplishment and empowerment for these kids when they tie those bamboo down and place the final roof tiles.
The last day in town, the kids are honored with a mérienda, a plate of locally produced veggies and carefully prepared cuy (guinea pig). Each family, the students and guides, other villagers and nearly all the niños that we had befriended over the week gathered to inaugurate the coops and it was a colorfully joyous afternoon. Confetti decorated everyones hair, a bottle of chicha was broken in an offering to the Pacha Mama (Mother Earth), doors were garlanded in greens and balloons and each set of students placed the first 7 cuy in their coop along with the alfalfa that they had cut and dried themselves. I simply cannot tell you how rewarding it is to see these kids participate in every step of providing a new sustainable life for this tiny village!
That night, the Socmans performed a series of traditional dances for the students including the most darling little set of spinning kids, boys dressed up as old men and a curious display of manhood where two by two, boys and men alike, join arms in friendship and then break apart to whip eachothers legs. Something in the way of showing pennance, the men maintain a stoic expression as each lash wraps around them, but boy, a couple of the little tykes get pretty upset when their partner gets in a solid whack!
The following night is spent in the tranquil setting of Rumira on the banks of the Urubamba. A Pacha Manca dinner is roasted underground (no guinea pig this time, just chicken and lamb, oh and my new favorite potato - an Ocha!) and the kids receive certificates from the mayor thanking them for their service to the Sacred Valley. On up to Aguas Calientes, a town that exists solely to cater to the tens of thousands of tourists that come to visit Machu Picchu each year. The kids nearly begged to be allowed to go to a discoteca and anyone knows, I am not one to argue against a night of dancing, so I braved the night scene with ten highschoolers in tow. They all agreed to get up early in order to catch the sunrise, so 6am found us aboard the shuttle up the mountain.
I can honestly say, in all my travels, I have seen nothing like the land surrounding Machu Picchu. The closest I can come is Meteora Greece, which is also an awe-inspiring sight. Jagged peaks rise from the valley like teeth; a maw that was once surely fierce and unyielding, now softened as with age with a layer of bushy green stubble and dense jungle. It is easy to see how the Spanish had difficulty finding this mysterious, magical hideaway.
We arrived at dawn to witness the first rays streaking through the mists and warming the incan stone. These students happened to be extra lucky because it was June 21st, the winter solstice and the only day in the entire year that the rising sun beams through the window of the sun temple and forms a perfect trapezoid on the altar! Half the group opted to make the precarious climb up Huayna Picchu for amazing views of the valley, while the other half wandered the ruins absorbing the ancient energy. I am just so lucky that I get to come back up to this spectacular wonder of the world 3 more times this summer!
The group wound up their 2 week journey with an entertaining train ride, bungee jumping from the highest jump in the Americas, touring Cusco a little more and some last minute shopping. After many heartfelt goodbyes, I had just enough time to catch my breath, (about an hour) before I picked up the next group to do it all over again! This time I have a better grasp on how everything works so I feel I can be even more help to the students. They are a good bunch so far and we will head into Socma tomorrow, so send lots of news for when I finally return to the www!
The last day in town, the kids are honored with a mérienda, a plate of locally produced veggies and carefully prepared cuy (guinea pig). Each family, the students and guides, other villagers and nearly all the niños that we had befriended over the week gathered to inaugurate the coops and it was a colorfully joyous afternoon. Confetti decorated everyones hair, a bottle of chicha was broken in an offering to the Pacha Mama (Mother Earth), doors were garlanded in greens and balloons and each set of students placed the first 7 cuy in their coop along with the alfalfa that they had cut and dried themselves. I simply cannot tell you how rewarding it is to see these kids participate in every step of providing a new sustainable life for this tiny village!
That night, the Socmans performed a series of traditional dances for the students including the most darling little set of spinning kids, boys dressed up as old men and a curious display of manhood where two by two, boys and men alike, join arms in friendship and then break apart to whip eachothers legs. Something in the way of showing pennance, the men maintain a stoic expression as each lash wraps around them, but boy, a couple of the little tykes get pretty upset when their partner gets in a solid whack!
The following night is spent in the tranquil setting of Rumira on the banks of the Urubamba. A Pacha Manca dinner is roasted underground (no guinea pig this time, just chicken and lamb, oh and my new favorite potato - an Ocha!) and the kids receive certificates from the mayor thanking them for their service to the Sacred Valley. On up to Aguas Calientes, a town that exists solely to cater to the tens of thousands of tourists that come to visit Machu Picchu each year. The kids nearly begged to be allowed to go to a discoteca and anyone knows, I am not one to argue against a night of dancing, so I braved the night scene with ten highschoolers in tow. They all agreed to get up early in order to catch the sunrise, so 6am found us aboard the shuttle up the mountain.
I can honestly say, in all my travels, I have seen nothing like the land surrounding Machu Picchu. The closest I can come is Meteora Greece, which is also an awe-inspiring sight. Jagged peaks rise from the valley like teeth; a maw that was once surely fierce and unyielding, now softened as with age with a layer of bushy green stubble and dense jungle. It is easy to see how the Spanish had difficulty finding this mysterious, magical hideaway.
We arrived at dawn to witness the first rays streaking through the mists and warming the incan stone. These students happened to be extra lucky because it was June 21st, the winter solstice and the only day in the entire year that the rising sun beams through the window of the sun temple and forms a perfect trapezoid on the altar! Half the group opted to make the precarious climb up Huayna Picchu for amazing views of the valley, while the other half wandered the ruins absorbing the ancient energy. I am just so lucky that I get to come back up to this spectacular wonder of the world 3 more times this summer!
The group wound up their 2 week journey with an entertaining train ride, bungee jumping from the highest jump in the Americas, touring Cusco a little more and some last minute shopping. After many heartfelt goodbyes, I had just enough time to catch my breath, (about an hour) before I picked up the next group to do it all over again! This time I have a better grasp on how everything works so I feel I can be even more help to the students. They are a good bunch so far and we will head into Socma tomorrow, so send lots of news for when I finally return to the www!
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Tusú rukù suey'chis!
"Buenos dias Señorita" accompanies a light rapping on my tent flap. I unzip my door to greet two smiling faces, one with a kettle of hot water and the other with a selection of tea bags, coca leaves, hot chocolate and sometimes even coffee. This is our wake-up call in the village of Socma, around 7am allowing us to ease into the day with a warm cuppa (that is if we've managed to sleep through villagers passing by and any number of donkeys, horses, sheep, roosters, dogs and cows trumpeting the morning news). It's a wonderful way to start a day.
Due to said natural alarm clocks, I'm usually awake and I'll take my tea out into the sunshine (once I manage to extract myself from my ultra cozy sleepingbag) and greet the kids as they one by one shuffle to the bathroom and into breakfast. We've hired a couple locals to cook our meals, Socma has many men that work as porters and cooks on the various incan trails during the tourist season as there is not much opportunity for employment this far off the beaten path - and the food is excellent.
Food is in fact a major part of the day here. After morning tea and breakfast, the kids are provided a snack, something like fruit and cookies, to take with them while they work. We've paired two kids with one family and the families usually share a 'snack' as well which can consist of anything from dried corn, beans, eggs on up to a plate loaded with meat, potatoes and pasta. Around noon, the kids return for a hearty lunch starting with soup, then around 5:30pm is afternoon tea with crackers/cookies/fried cheese pockets/popcorn etc and finally dinner around 7:30, which again starts with soup, main course and a dessert. Needless to say, the kids never get a chance to get hungry.
As a T.C. however, we get additional 'treats'. T.C., meaning Trip Coordinator, is not my official title but a Peruvian (maybe South American?) term that entitles me to certain perks such as a free meal when we take the kids to a restaurant, free room in the hotels we stay and even for example, if all of my kids buy hats at a certain shop, they will throw in an extra for me. I have yet to try out that last one, but apparently it's fairly common.
Each day, as I climb to the students houses to check in on them, (a serious workout by the way on the complex system of 'paths' that seem to reinvent themselves each night like Pan's Labyrinth) the altitude and severe incline ensure that I am gulping oxygen by the time I get there and more often than not I am invited to partake in a meal. It is not only an insult to say no, but also to leave food on your plate, never mind that it might be your 6th meal of the day and its barely 3pm. Usually, I can hardly look at the mound of food on my plate let alone consume it. I have a problem.
The other day though, I came up with a sollution. It was one of the Señora's birthday and they were throwing a fiesta. Confetti sprinkled everywhere, music playing and guinea pig, among other things heaped on a plate for me right after lunch and a snack at the previous house. I knew I was in trouble. I picked at the food, delicious as it was, making sure they saw me enjoying it and wondered how I would possible clear my plate. Suddenly, it dawned on me, I asked Max, our local guide how to say this in Quechua and I stood up to exclaim "Tusú rukù suey'chis!" (Let's dance!). The birthday girl jumped up, already fairly drunk off chicha, the local corn brew and joined me, spinning and stomping with a giant grin. It worked! I pulled the kids into the fray and the rest clapped to the beat... ahh, it was one of those moments that will forever be with me. It may not work every time, but I'm keeping it up my sleeve ;).
The kids work hard every day constucting their guinea pig coops together with their Socma families. They mix mud with their feet, fashion adobe bricks (weighing about 45lbs when dry), carry and place the bricks to form the walls and sections of the coop and apply the mud mortar. They peel bamboo and set the roof tiles in place and when not building they shuck corn in the community fields, learn how to sew traditional dolls (a new womans initiative in Socma) and cut alfalfa to dry for their guinea pigs. They've also taught for a day in the local school, played soccer with the villagers (our tents are set up between the school and the field) and even frisbee or catch with a softball (yes that was my addition ;) At night, which comes early as the hills tightly embrace little Socma, we've played plenty of catchphrase and card games - it's a great life.
We have now finished our service in Socma, with a great ceremony 'christening' the new coops. It was a wonderful day and I'll write more on that in future entries. Today is our last day of camping with a Pacha Manca (traditional feast) and several important guests (like the Mayor of the Sacred Valley) and tomorrow we travel to Aguas Calientes, which is at the base of... Machu Picchu! Sunday will be my first visit to this majestic wonder of the world and I am very excited!
Hugs to all my friends and family - hopefully pics to come soon!
Due to said natural alarm clocks, I'm usually awake and I'll take my tea out into the sunshine (once I manage to extract myself from my ultra cozy sleepingbag) and greet the kids as they one by one shuffle to the bathroom and into breakfast. We've hired a couple locals to cook our meals, Socma has many men that work as porters and cooks on the various incan trails during the tourist season as there is not much opportunity for employment this far off the beaten path - and the food is excellent.
Food is in fact a major part of the day here. After morning tea and breakfast, the kids are provided a snack, something like fruit and cookies, to take with them while they work. We've paired two kids with one family and the families usually share a 'snack' as well which can consist of anything from dried corn, beans, eggs on up to a plate loaded with meat, potatoes and pasta. Around noon, the kids return for a hearty lunch starting with soup, then around 5:30pm is afternoon tea with crackers/cookies/fried cheese pockets/popcorn etc and finally dinner around 7:30, which again starts with soup, main course and a dessert. Needless to say, the kids never get a chance to get hungry.
As a T.C. however, we get additional 'treats'. T.C., meaning Trip Coordinator, is not my official title but a Peruvian (maybe South American?) term that entitles me to certain perks such as a free meal when we take the kids to a restaurant, free room in the hotels we stay and even for example, if all of my kids buy hats at a certain shop, they will throw in an extra for me. I have yet to try out that last one, but apparently it's fairly common.
Each day, as I climb to the students houses to check in on them, (a serious workout by the way on the complex system of 'paths' that seem to reinvent themselves each night like Pan's Labyrinth) the altitude and severe incline ensure that I am gulping oxygen by the time I get there and more often than not I am invited to partake in a meal. It is not only an insult to say no, but also to leave food on your plate, never mind that it might be your 6th meal of the day and its barely 3pm. Usually, I can hardly look at the mound of food on my plate let alone consume it. I have a problem.
The other day though, I came up with a sollution. It was one of the Señora's birthday and they were throwing a fiesta. Confetti sprinkled everywhere, music playing and guinea pig, among other things heaped on a plate for me right after lunch and a snack at the previous house. I knew I was in trouble. I picked at the food, delicious as it was, making sure they saw me enjoying it and wondered how I would possible clear my plate. Suddenly, it dawned on me, I asked Max, our local guide how to say this in Quechua and I stood up to exclaim "Tusú rukù suey'chis!" (Let's dance!). The birthday girl jumped up, already fairly drunk off chicha, the local corn brew and joined me, spinning and stomping with a giant grin. It worked! I pulled the kids into the fray and the rest clapped to the beat... ahh, it was one of those moments that will forever be with me. It may not work every time, but I'm keeping it up my sleeve ;).
The kids work hard every day constucting their guinea pig coops together with their Socma families. They mix mud with their feet, fashion adobe bricks (weighing about 45lbs when dry), carry and place the bricks to form the walls and sections of the coop and apply the mud mortar. They peel bamboo and set the roof tiles in place and when not building they shuck corn in the community fields, learn how to sew traditional dolls (a new womans initiative in Socma) and cut alfalfa to dry for their guinea pigs. They've also taught for a day in the local school, played soccer with the villagers (our tents are set up between the school and the field) and even frisbee or catch with a softball (yes that was my addition ;) At night, which comes early as the hills tightly embrace little Socma, we've played plenty of catchphrase and card games - it's a great life.
We have now finished our service in Socma, with a great ceremony 'christening' the new coops. It was a wonderful day and I'll write more on that in future entries. Today is our last day of camping with a Pacha Manca (traditional feast) and several important guests (like the Mayor of the Sacred Valley) and tomorrow we travel to Aguas Calientes, which is at the base of... Machu Picchu! Sunday will be my first visit to this majestic wonder of the world and I am very excited!
Hugs to all my friends and family - hopefully pics to come soon!
Monday, June 8, 2009
Rustic Peru
A knot of conflicting emotions, I boarded a shuttle at 2:30am for the Seattle Airport. Although I was more prepared than I ever have been before, I guess Im getting good at this moving thing ;), I felt somewhat less prepared mentally. I hit the ground running after India, never really getting out of a backpack, spending time in more than eight different towns and three states and while these reunions were so needed and they did charge my batteries in a way, I just never had time to stop and breath, reset.
Both flights went smoothly and around 11pm (Peru is on central time), I collected my bags and witnessed my first evidence of the swine flu scare, as every employee of an airline or an airport was wearing a face-mask. An eery first impression of Peru. I met my new boss, Gabe, got a couple hours sleep, before we turned right back around and boarded a plane from Lima to Cuzco.
At slighty more than 10,000ft, training began and over the course of the week, myself and another summer staff, along with the country director and program manager, became oriented with the towns and villages that we'd be working in for the next 10 weeks. We had an official meeting with the Mayor of the Sacred Valley, which was interesting and I visited Socma, the village that I would be bringing students to (the project involves three villages in the valley). As a wonderful surprise, the villagers had prepared a "pachamanca" for us (a traditional meal for special occasions). They gathered in the town square (where we will be camping) and uncovered the goat and potatoes that had been roasting under hot stones and earth. We each received a heaping plate full and as an 'aperitif' a glass of chicha, a drink of fermented corn (not much of a fan). Afterwards, we introduced ourselves and a couple of the women sprinkled freshly plucked flower petals over our heads - such a humbling honor.
Later that night, we met with the heads of the village to discuss the logistics and goals of the project. My spanish comprehension is holding up surprisingly well, but I need a vast improvement in my speaking abilities. Many of the villagers only speak Quechua, for which we have a translator, but I have made it a goal to learn some of that as well. There were several moments in which speakers became emotional either because this project is going to mean so much to the community or more often because we are unfortunately lacking the funds to complete the project as planned. We have had to scale back our original proposal and therefore some of the families will not be getting their guinea pig coops this year. I was so incredibly touched that I have decided to raise funds for the project, so please stay tuned for more information on ways you may be able to help!
This weekend, we finally had a free evening and so after a delicious dinner and a fantastic display of fireworks and crackers strung up on rickety bamboo towers (and of course its the first time that I, for whatever reason, decided to leave my camera at home), I ventured into Cuzco for some long awaited salsa dancing and reggaeton, bringing back very pleasant memories of my life in Guatemala.
Next, we flew back to Lima, will check out the site of the "Dolphins in the Desert" program tomorrow (did you know that Peru has one of the largest dolphin populations in the world?) and the kiddies arrive late on the 9th! Phew, wish me luck!
Check out my itinerary and information regarding the other programs being run here in Peru!
https://www.rusticpathways.com/2009/peru/psv.html
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Year in Review (and what a year!)
Back in Bangkok for my first flight of 2009 and I thought I'd write a little summary of 2008 in recognition of what was one of the best years of my life!
2008 started off in the company of my dear Kodak Kids in Sunny California during the Rose Parade. We rang in the new year properly with champagne, good food and dancing and then all got up early for a long days work. Little did we know, that our upcoming 'month off' would actually set us free of Kodak Inspiration and on a hunt for the next. I spent half of January with my wonderful friends Kev, Keith, Crafton, Rhi, and new friends Sarah, Pat and Lu on the snowy slopes of Eagle and Vale, Colorado facing below freezing temperatures, snowboarding crystal powders and tromping up to lakes of ice on snowshoes. The hottub and spiked hot chocolate are also not to be forgotten!
The second half of the month and into February, I had the luxury of adding 3 new countries to my list and reuniting with more wonderful people. First, I met me Mom in Ireland (said with an Irish accent ;) and we toured around the cold, grey, but still bonnie green countryside. We also did a wee bit of site-seeing in England including stonehenge and London and munching on our first authentic 'fish-n-chips'.
Next stop was the Netherlands, picked up by my dear friend Sebastiaan who took his job of
official Dutch tour guide seriously. One week was hardly enough, but I saw more than I could have expected, including the famed windmills, Gouda, Amsterdam and his lovely parents (who make the best pancakes in Holland). I even got in some club dancing with his friends and a night of salsa as well! Finally, I flew back to the UK 
for a crazy mixed-up pick-up by my buddies Fergus and Kev. I spent one splendid week in their company, bowling, museuming, running, dancing, eating, staying up past midnight to watch THE game (the SuperBowl for my non-American readers ;) and learning more than necessary about Rugby. A truly disheartening farewell with wishes given in pence and revolving door goodbyes sent me on my return to the states to figure out what next.
One insane string of flights (London-Frankfurt-Atlanta-Daytona-Atlanta-LA-Seattle) brought me safely back into WA to see my parents and I even had time for a Tuesday Pot-Luck Dinner with some of my favorite people in Seattle (shout out to Craig, Neils and Brandon!) before my luck held true and a friend of mine hired me for a job beginning the following week. I barely had time to repack my bags before I was on my way to the Big Easy, New Orleans, Louisiana! I
worked as a guide for Rustic Pathways assisting HS Students in their quest to volunteer their spring break helping residents and victims of Hurricane Katrina. We built houses, restored wetlands, cleaned neighborhoods and gave our time to the foodbank. It was a fantastic experience and the absolutely incredible music scene of NOLA was the icing on the cake! A HUGE Thank you is owed to my friend Mike and my sbrpnola08 girls, Lauren and Deanna! The three of us had a brilliant time once the work was over road-tripping parts of LA, AL, MS and FL!
During the 6 weeks in N'awlins, I applied and got a position with Rustic in India, which I had wanted to see for years. The month of May was a month of reunions seeing long lost friends in Seattle, Arlington, Portland, Hillsboro and good ol' Salt Lake city. 
The best part was seeing 3 new arrivals (I think I had about 6 or 7 births announced this year!), the little ones of my friends are just the cutest babies in the whole world!! :)
Half way through the year on June 1st, I landed half way around the world in New Delhi, India. Met by two of my newest friends and co-workers, Scott and Shira, I ventured into the country I would spend most of the next 10 months of my life. The rest of the Rustic Staff, Kalsang, Eric, Tina, Braden and Dalas trained hard in Mcleod Ganj (home of the Dalai lama) before being joined by our darling students for weeks of volunteer work with Tibetan refugees (building a basketball court, english conversation, road repair, tree planting and cultural experiences). It was wonderful working with these kids and learning alongside them. Dealing with sickness abroad is not easy when it comes to yourself, but looking after 18 ducklings is much more difficult! Time flew and before I knew it, the yoga and mud-digging and meditaion and momo making and Tibetan dance parties were over and I was off on my backpacking India adventure!
Tina joined me on an epic trip to Amritsar and the Pakistan border before we parted ways and I journeyed up north. In summary, Manali was a calm little mountain town but ladakh/kashmir (not to mention the 20-24 hour bus trip there and back) was strikingly beautiful! I have never been someplace where the sky is so blue and the people so warm. 
My birthday adventure of bike riding down from the worlds highest motorable pass was brilliant with two new travel-buddies Emma and Ange and the monasteries and stupas some of the most impressive buildings I have ever seen!
Emma and I returned to a normal elevation for a true backpacking schedule of Manali-Shimla-Chandigar-Haridwar-Rishikesh where she stopped off for some yoga and beetles nostalgia whereas I met up with Austrian friends of mine that I had known in Athens, but now live in Delhi. I cleaned up, relaxed and hit the road again with Tina and Shira to Jaipur, one last fling before we parted ways (yet another sad farewell) and I continued on a tour of Rajasthan, one of Indias most colorful states.
Its hard to summarize Rajasthan, but Jaipur (beautiful fort and palaces), Jodhpur (another impressive fort and my first Indian wedding), Jaisalmer (camel jockeying and desert fireworks), Mt
. Abu (cool lake and ice cream), Chittorgarh (Asias largest fort at 700 acres and royal hospitality), Pushkar (2 weeks of swimming, learning Hindi, hiking to temples and good friends) and finally Bundi (perhaps my favorite place in India, spending 3 weeks with my adoptive Indian family, dressing up in a sari and even being on the 9pm news!).
A second reunion with my dear friend Sebastiaan, followed by a month through Agra (the majestic Taj Mahal), Orchha (a secret Indian garden), Kajuraho (Kama Sutra Temples), Varanassi (Indias most sacred city for Diwali, Indias most popular festival) and into Nepal for Himalayan trekking and site-seeing! Sebas and I left eachothers side from Darjeeling and I had just over a week to spend in Calcutta before I flew to Thailand (with an eventful 25hour layover in Dhaka).
Next up was a family reunion with my parents, a little island hopping in Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia, a reunion with Ange and meeting some of her great friends in Bangkok. Finally, I spontaneously flew up to Chiang Mai and happened to meet a couple fantastic Indian/Nepalis that I spent my Christmas and New Years with... Without saying too much, there is possible romance ahead in 2009 - yes, this coming from the perpetually single and on-the-move-Jessie. Only time can tell!
2008 saw me in 9 new countries (31 total now with Bangladesh to be 32), 10 states, 31 flights, 4 road-trips, reuniting with a couple dozen of the most fantastic friends a girl could have and more memories than I could possibly keep straight if it wasnt for my camera, journal, blog and facebook ;). My love goes out to all those that read this (and onto those who dont as well :) and my only wish is that 2009 is even better for us all (which will be quite the feat)!!!
2008 started off in the company of my dear Kodak Kids in Sunny California during the Rose Parade. We rang in the new year properly with champagne, good food and dancing and then all got up early for a long days work. Little did we know, that our upcoming 'month off' would actually set us free of Kodak Inspiration and on a hunt for the next. I spent half of January with my wonderful friends Kev, Keith, Crafton, Rhi, and new friends Sarah, Pat and Lu on the snowy slopes of Eagle and Vale, Colorado facing below freezing temperatures, snowboarding crystal powders and tromping up to lakes of ice on snowshoes. The hottub and spiked hot chocolate are also not to be forgotten!
The second half of the month and into February, I had the luxury of adding 3 new countries to my list and reuniting with more wonderful people. First, I met me Mom in Ireland (said with an Irish accent ;) and we toured around the cold, grey, but still bonnie green countryside. We also did a wee bit of site-seeing in England including stonehenge and London and munching on our first authentic 'fish-n-chips'.
Next stop was the Netherlands, picked up by my dear friend Sebastiaan who took his job of
official Dutch tour guide seriously. One week was hardly enough, but I saw more than I could have expected, including the famed windmills, Gouda, Amsterdam and his lovely parents (who make the best pancakes in Holland). I even got in some club dancing with his friends and a night of salsa as well! Finally, I flew back to the UK 
for a crazy mixed-up pick-up by my buddies Fergus and Kev. I spent one splendid week in their company, bowling, museuming, running, dancing, eating, staying up past midnight to watch THE game (the SuperBowl for my non-American readers ;) and learning more than necessary about Rugby. A truly disheartening farewell with wishes given in pence and revolving door goodbyes sent me on my return to the states to figure out what next.One insane string of flights (London-Frankfurt-Atlanta-Daytona-Atlanta-LA-Seattle) brought me safely back into WA to see my parents and I even had time for a Tuesday Pot-Luck Dinner with some of my favorite people in Seattle (shout out to Craig, Neils and Brandon!) before my luck held true and a friend of mine hired me for a job beginning the following week. I barely had time to repack my bags before I was on my way to the Big Easy, New Orleans, Louisiana! I
worked as a guide for Rustic Pathways assisting HS Students in their quest to volunteer their spring break helping residents and victims of Hurricane Katrina. We built houses, restored wetlands, cleaned neighborhoods and gave our time to the foodbank. It was a fantastic experience and the absolutely incredible music scene of NOLA was the icing on the cake! A HUGE Thank you is owed to my friend Mike and my sbrpnola08 girls, Lauren and Deanna! The three of us had a brilliant time once the work was over road-tripping parts of LA, AL, MS and FL!
During the 6 weeks in N'awlins, I applied and got a position with Rustic in India, which I had wanted to see for years. The month of May was a month of reunions seeing long lost friends in Seattle, Arlington, Portland, Hillsboro and good ol' Salt Lake city. 
The best part was seeing 3 new arrivals (I think I had about 6 or 7 births announced this year!), the little ones of my friends are just the cutest babies in the whole world!! :) 
Half way through the year on June 1st, I landed half way around the world in New Delhi, India. Met by two of my newest friends and co-workers, Scott and Shira, I ventured into the country I would spend most of the next 10 months of my life. The rest of the Rustic Staff, Kalsang, Eric, Tina, Braden and Dalas trained hard in Mcleod Ganj (home of the Dalai lama) before being joined by our darling students for weeks of volunteer work with Tibetan refugees (building a basketball court, english conversation, road repair, tree planting and cultural experiences). It was wonderful working with these kids and learning alongside them. Dealing with sickness abroad is not easy when it comes to yourself, but looking after 18 ducklings is much more difficult! Time flew and before I knew it, the yoga and mud-digging and meditaion and momo making and Tibetan dance parties were over and I was off on my backpacking India adventure!
Tina joined me on an epic trip to Amritsar and the Pakistan border before we parted ways and I journeyed up north. In summary, Manali was a calm little mountain town but ladakh/kashmir (not to mention the 20-24 hour bus trip there and back) was strikingly beautiful! I have never been someplace where the sky is so blue and the people so warm. 
My birthday adventure of bike riding down from the worlds highest motorable pass was brilliant with two new travel-buddies Emma and Ange and the monasteries and stupas some of the most impressive buildings I have ever seen!Emma and I returned to a normal elevation for a true backpacking schedule of Manali-Shimla-Chandigar-Haridwar-Rishikesh where she stopped off for some yoga and beetles nostalgia whereas I met up with Austrian friends of mine that I had known in Athens, but now live in Delhi. I cleaned up, relaxed and hit the road again with Tina and Shira to Jaipur, one last fling before we parted ways (yet another sad farewell) and I continued on a tour of Rajasthan, one of Indias most colorful states.
Its hard to summarize Rajasthan, but Jaipur (beautiful fort and palaces), Jodhpur (another impressive fort and my first Indian wedding), Jaisalmer (camel jockeying and desert fireworks), Mt
. Abu (cool lake and ice cream), Chittorgarh (Asias largest fort at 700 acres and royal hospitality), Pushkar (2 weeks of swimming, learning Hindi, hiking to temples and good friends) and finally Bundi (perhaps my favorite place in India, spending 3 weeks with my adoptive Indian family, dressing up in a sari and even being on the 9pm news!). 
A second reunion with my dear friend Sebastiaan, followed by a month through Agra (the majestic Taj Mahal), Orchha (a secret Indian garden), Kajuraho (Kama Sutra Temples), Varanassi (Indias most sacred city for Diwali, Indias most popular festival) and into Nepal for Himalayan trekking and site-seeing! Sebas and I left eachothers side from Darjeeling and I had just over a week to spend in Calcutta before I flew to Thailand (with an eventful 25hour layover in Dhaka). Next up was a family reunion with my parents, a little island hopping in Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia, a reunion with Ange and meeting some of her great friends in Bangkok. Finally, I spontaneously flew up to Chiang Mai and happened to meet a couple fantastic Indian/Nepalis that I spent my Christmas and New Years with... Without saying too much, there is possible romance ahead in 2009 - yes, this coming from the perpetually single and on-the-move-Jessie. Only time can tell!
2008 saw me in 9 new countries (31 total now with Bangladesh to be 32), 10 states, 31 flights, 4 road-trips, reuniting with a couple dozen of the most fantastic friends a girl could have and more memories than I could possibly keep straight if it wasnt for my camera, journal, blog and facebook ;). My love goes out to all those that read this (and onto those who dont as well :) and my only wish is that 2009 is even better for us all (which will be quite the feat)!!!
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Escape no further
I'm once again in Mcleod Ganj after a week in Tashi Jong that truly flew, 2 long travel days to and from the north (one of which involved one very upset tummy on an all out angry road full of bumps, potholes, cattle, hairpin turns and a stuffed jeep), and 2 very hot and humid days in Delhi. On the last day, the kids had the opportunity to shop (which they whole-heartedly took advantage of - the bags piled in a veritable shrine not to a hindu god but rather the power of the dollar) and then spent the afternoon at a country club where they could swim in a private setting, relax, get henna and a good meal before they flew out. That night we successfully traded 10 kids for 36 (yikes!), Delhi day tour the next day in monstrous bus and then a jeep caravan of 8 yesterday! Phew! They seem like a great bunch *knock on wood* so I'm looking forward to getting to know them.
I feel so lucky for the opportunity to spend time in both places. Mcleod seems like such an escape from Delhi what with the exhaust fumes, dust and dirt, urine, heat, fried samosas, cow manure and sweat giving way to a calming incense wafting from the temples and private alters through open windows. The two main roads redolent of steamed Thingmo bread and Momos (Tibetan dumplings) and fresh rain. There is a CD shop that continuously plays Tibetan temple chants with a lulling backmusic and even the honking cars and motorbikes are punctuated by the sight of prayer flags flapping from every rooftop carrying the message of peace into the breeze. The program I am running is called "Service in the Clouds" and there couldnt be a more apt name. The clouds are more alive here than any other place I have ever been. They come and go with such purpose and when they choose to stay it gives everything such an ethereal appearance. One day, the staff went for a cup of chai in a tiny little shop just large enough for two benches and a nook for the fire and teapot. As we sat chatting and relaxing after a full morning the beautiful view from the window became opaque and then white and suddenly it was like an invisible hand was pulling cotton across our laps - perhaps that cloud just wanted to join us for a chai :).
Whereas, Mcleod feels like an escape from Delhi, Tashi Jong is an escape from Mcleod Ganj. Tashi is so small most people have never heard of it. Its a close community of Tibetan Refugees in an idealic setting of rice fields and rivers combing brilliant green hills. There are no backpackers, no markets, no traffic, there arent even any roads through town! One small road ends in the town square. In one direction, directly off the square, is the temple complex where monks from the tender age of 6 up learn the ways of budhist life. All day long, you can see them pacing the roof with books in their hands, chatting in the stairwells through ornate windows, circumabulating the Kora (a loop around the Temple including spinning each of 30 prayer wheels), even buying treats in one of two tiny shops in the square (where the owners sit making incredibly intricate wood carvings for purchase and for use in stamping prayer flags). The now familiar garnet and saphron robes strolling around town add a distinctly feeling of content to lovely Tashi Jong.
Off another side of the square is the only quest house in town where the staff stay (the kids have homestays) and then buffering the last side is where all of the laypeople live in a wonderful matrix of slender aisles and houses. Everything is within a 5 minute walk until you cross the bridge and head towards the neighboring indian village and the bus stop a good 20 minutes away.
I began each day rising just after 6 am so that I could do my own Kora. I spun each set of wheels with a specific person/s in mind, continued up the steps to the temple which is one of my favorite sights early in the morning, so colorful and happy. Around to a small room holding 3 giant prayer wheels with rods sticking out of them that rang a bell with each revolution. At this point I'm usually walking alongside other townfolk doing their own morning routine. I'd then pass a pile of stones painted with Tibten symbols and mantras and then sneak off to the left, where I never once saw another person. A path led to the cremation area and beyond that a quaint meadow adorned with hundreds of prayer flags, some faded strings of white, tattered, others fresh and brightly colored to represent the 5 elements (wind, water, cloud, earth and fire). This was my place. My spot, every morning to breath and be with myself as the sun rose and made those flags glow... true peace. It was a wonderful way to start the day :).
The kids day began at 7am. We met and hiked up to a retreat center where we would meet with the mayor of Tashi (a monk) who would speak to us about Budhism, answer questions and teach us about meditation, which we would also do for a portion of that hour. The necessary cup of chai was delivered by a darling little 9 year old girl. At 8, return to their houses for breakfast and to prepare for 3 hours of service either digging holes for medicinal trees, building a fence or repairing the road. Break for lunch cooked by the community, delicious and hearty Tibetan food and then 3-4 more hours of service, this time speaking english with monks and laypeople and then in the local school room with kids ages 5-16. Afterwards we had an activity such as prayer flag printing with a master carver, Tsatsa making (religious ornaments), cooking and weaving and then the kids have some free time before dinner around 7 or 8. A pretty full day but so very very rewarding!
Tibetans and some of the nicest and warmest people I have ever met. In Tashi, we really felt a part of the community. People would randomly come and join in the service. They would suddenly appear with a pot of freshly brewed chai and cups for everyone. The teenage Tibetans spoke pretty good english and actually made pretty good friends with the staff and a couple of the students. The only other foreigners in town are a couple of great chaps, a brit and an aussie (one of the kids affectionately nicknamed them the "accent guys"), who are living there for 6 months teaching english to monks. They have provided many a laugh :). It is just a marvelous place.
As a farewell, on the last night we had a big potluck in the main hall. The teenagers decorated with streamers and each family brought a dish or two. All of the students and staff dressed up in borrowed Chupas (the traditional tibetan dress) and Eric, the other staff, and I even tried to make cookies with extremely limited supplies and frying them on a chapati (flat bread) iron pan... haha, surprisingly they weren't bad! After dinner, we all learned some traditional Tibetan dance and then broke out the ipod speakers and had one serious dance party!! Ha, pictures soon to come hopefully :)
Phew! I feel great to finally give you all a decent update and wish I could snap my fingers to bring you all over here to experience this yourself! Its unbelievable at times and I haven't even been here for a month yet!! Love and miss you all - until next time!
PS: I almost forgot to mention one of the best parts of my visit to Delhi 2.5 weeks ago. I was lucky enough to meet up with my good friend Suraj for an entire half hour! Ha, we had hoped to spend the evening prior together as he had a layover in Delhi on his way to Bangledesh but unfortunately his flight was delayed and he had to rush into town from the airport in the morning for a very brief, however exciting catch-up session! He also delivered a highlighter which is the most random thing that I had not been able to locate - what a true friend! Thanks Suraj! Next time we'll get at least an hour ;)
I feel so lucky for the opportunity to spend time in both places. Mcleod seems like such an escape from Delhi what with the exhaust fumes, dust and dirt, urine, heat, fried samosas, cow manure and sweat giving way to a calming incense wafting from the temples and private alters through open windows. The two main roads redolent of steamed Thingmo bread and Momos (Tibetan dumplings) and fresh rain. There is a CD shop that continuously plays Tibetan temple chants with a lulling backmusic and even the honking cars and motorbikes are punctuated by the sight of prayer flags flapping from every rooftop carrying the message of peace into the breeze. The program I am running is called "Service in the Clouds" and there couldnt be a more apt name. The clouds are more alive here than any other place I have ever been. They come and go with such purpose and when they choose to stay it gives everything such an ethereal appearance. One day, the staff went for a cup of chai in a tiny little shop just large enough for two benches and a nook for the fire and teapot. As we sat chatting and relaxing after a full morning the beautiful view from the window became opaque and then white and suddenly it was like an invisible hand was pulling cotton across our laps - perhaps that cloud just wanted to join us for a chai :).
Whereas, Mcleod feels like an escape from Delhi, Tashi Jong is an escape from Mcleod Ganj. Tashi is so small most people have never heard of it. Its a close community of Tibetan Refugees in an idealic setting of rice fields and rivers combing brilliant green hills. There are no backpackers, no markets, no traffic, there arent even any roads through town! One small road ends in the town square. In one direction, directly off the square, is the temple complex where monks from the tender age of 6 up learn the ways of budhist life. All day long, you can see them pacing the roof with books in their hands, chatting in the stairwells through ornate windows, circumabulating the Kora (a loop around the Temple including spinning each of 30 prayer wheels), even buying treats in one of two tiny shops in the square (where the owners sit making incredibly intricate wood carvings for purchase and for use in stamping prayer flags). The now familiar garnet and saphron robes strolling around town add a distinctly feeling of content to lovely Tashi Jong.
Off another side of the square is the only quest house in town where the staff stay (the kids have homestays) and then buffering the last side is where all of the laypeople live in a wonderful matrix of slender aisles and houses. Everything is within a 5 minute walk until you cross the bridge and head towards the neighboring indian village and the bus stop a good 20 minutes away.
I began each day rising just after 6 am so that I could do my own Kora. I spun each set of wheels with a specific person/s in mind, continued up the steps to the temple which is one of my favorite sights early in the morning, so colorful and happy. Around to a small room holding 3 giant prayer wheels with rods sticking out of them that rang a bell with each revolution. At this point I'm usually walking alongside other townfolk doing their own morning routine. I'd then pass a pile of stones painted with Tibten symbols and mantras and then sneak off to the left, where I never once saw another person. A path led to the cremation area and beyond that a quaint meadow adorned with hundreds of prayer flags, some faded strings of white, tattered, others fresh and brightly colored to represent the 5 elements (wind, water, cloud, earth and fire). This was my place. My spot, every morning to breath and be with myself as the sun rose and made those flags glow... true peace. It was a wonderful way to start the day :).
The kids day began at 7am. We met and hiked up to a retreat center where we would meet with the mayor of Tashi (a monk) who would speak to us about Budhism, answer questions and teach us about meditation, which we would also do for a portion of that hour. The necessary cup of chai was delivered by a darling little 9 year old girl. At 8, return to their houses for breakfast and to prepare for 3 hours of service either digging holes for medicinal trees, building a fence or repairing the road. Break for lunch cooked by the community, delicious and hearty Tibetan food and then 3-4 more hours of service, this time speaking english with monks and laypeople and then in the local school room with kids ages 5-16. Afterwards we had an activity such as prayer flag printing with a master carver, Tsatsa making (religious ornaments), cooking and weaving and then the kids have some free time before dinner around 7 or 8. A pretty full day but so very very rewarding!
Tibetans and some of the nicest and warmest people I have ever met. In Tashi, we really felt a part of the community. People would randomly come and join in the service. They would suddenly appear with a pot of freshly brewed chai and cups for everyone. The teenage Tibetans spoke pretty good english and actually made pretty good friends with the staff and a couple of the students. The only other foreigners in town are a couple of great chaps, a brit and an aussie (one of the kids affectionately nicknamed them the "accent guys"), who are living there for 6 months teaching english to monks. They have provided many a laugh :). It is just a marvelous place.
As a farewell, on the last night we had a big potluck in the main hall. The teenagers decorated with streamers and each family brought a dish or two. All of the students and staff dressed up in borrowed Chupas (the traditional tibetan dress) and Eric, the other staff, and I even tried to make cookies with extremely limited supplies and frying them on a chapati (flat bread) iron pan... haha, surprisingly they weren't bad! After dinner, we all learned some traditional Tibetan dance and then broke out the ipod speakers and had one serious dance party!! Ha, pictures soon to come hopefully :)
Phew! I feel great to finally give you all a decent update and wish I could snap my fingers to bring you all over here to experience this yourself! Its unbelievable at times and I haven't even been here for a month yet!! Love and miss you all - until next time!
PS: I almost forgot to mention one of the best parts of my visit to Delhi 2.5 weeks ago. I was lucky enough to meet up with my good friend Suraj for an entire half hour! Ha, we had hoped to spend the evening prior together as he had a layover in Delhi on his way to Bangledesh but unfortunately his flight was delayed and he had to rush into town from the airport in the morning for a very brief, however exciting catch-up session! He also delivered a highlighter which is the most random thing that I had not been able to locate - what a true friend! Thanks Suraj! Next time we'll get at least an hour ;)
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