Although I've fallen dreadfully behind in my own blog, I managed to submit a piece for my Alma Mater's Alumni blog. Check it out if you get the chance and let me know what you think!
I promise a personal update soon!
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Friday, September 3, 2010
Rwanda & Burundi
I spent a mere week in Rwanda, a country dubbed the 'Switzerland of Africa'. Although Uganda was also a land of dense green, scrunched hill upon hill, thick forests, and tiny villages, Rwanda did indeed surprise me with its sheer natural beauty, unique landscape as well as the level of development.
After leaving Kampala, (not without taking a bite out of the famed nightlife, two nights in a row working magic on the dance floor 'til dawn, watching movies and wandering the city with a fellow couchsurfer Stephan, getting my hair braided with super hero blue lightening bolts, (much to the glee of the salon :), and topping it all off by attending a ba'hai sunday service in a temple, in which they opened all 6 sets of double doors in around the circular chapel so that the light mixed with the choir voices, swirling around, up to the turquoise ceiling and back down to each person... enchanting!), I took a night bus to Kisoro. I was warned against doing so, but found no other option so off we went into the darkness.
Let me just say, in my humble opinion, Ugandan bus drivers drive like they clinically insane. The road was, as usual, underdeveloped, pitted and potholed as well a continuous series of winding switchbacks and you would not believe the speeds in which we were flying! I lost count of the number of times that every passenger was ejected from their seats and in one, very harrowing instance, the bus nearly crashed, grinding to the right, wheels on my side in the air, people tossed to the side, ladies calling upon "Jesus Christ!" clutching their babies and suddenly we pitched the other direction, a plume of dust filled the bus, we wobbled, found a balance, and amazingly did not slow down AT ALL! The passengers complained loudly, but there was a wall between the cabin and the driver and I, having remained surprisingly calm, kept trying to assure myself that I was going to see the gorillas. We were not going to crash, because I could feel I would see the gorillas... the power of positive thought I figured :).
Fortunately, we made it in one piece, I tracked down a hotel that had rooms with private bathrooms and hot water - I needed a shower after what turned out to be a 12 hour journey (vs. the claimed 8). Alex in Kampala had helped me arrange a permit so I checked in at the office and prepared for tracking gorillas the next day.
The visitors center at Mgahinga National Park is very well developed with a lot of information about the animal life in the forest and the history of the protective efforts for the endangered mnt. gorillas. I was signing in and suddenly there was a rustle behind me. The trail into the forest came to a T just a couple meters from the visitors center and a man came running from around the corner. A giant flash of gray whizzed by followed by a loud CRACK! BANG BANG! "Was that a gorilla?" I asked. Another man raced across the T following the flash with a gun in his hands. Another couple shots rang out and three hikers emerged, huddled together, one girl clutching her back. We had seen these hikers enter the forest just a minute or two earlier and apparently they had come face to face with an angry buffalo who had knocked her down and stepped on her before running away... THIS is why you go hiking in Africa!! It was an exciting opening to our own gorilla tracking.
After a short briefing, four paying trackers including myself, our guide, and our security set out to meet a man with a machete who would lead us to where the gorillas were last sighted and we would track them from there. Because of the buffalo incident, our guide chose to take us around the base of the mountain, outside the forest through charming settlements. As always, children came running from their hiding places and farm animals paid us no attention. Once we forged into the forest, the path, when there was one, was steep. We bushwhacked to an opening where we came upon the most beautiful creatures! I massive silverback gorilla, turned to glance at us and I imagined him thinking, 'Ah... they're back'. I wonder if they notice it's different people each time or if the presence of a few familiar faces is all that matters.
We were meeting the 9 members of the Nyakagezi family. The only family of the three in Mgahinga that is habituated to humans. We kept an average of 7m distance and were allowed to follow them as they moved from tree to tree to bush for a maximum of one hour. The babies swung haphazardly from limbs and the incredibly muscled silverbacks lazed on the ground, sometimes rolling around and even reaching over to caress the babies when they came near. They are so human-like! I wanted so badly to go up and cuddle with them, just to be enveloped in their enormous arms, a giant gorilla hug! They really seemed not to care at all that we were following them and the next thing you know, our time was up and we had to return, bidding farewell to our distant relatives.
The next morning I hired a motorcycle taxi to take me and my seemingly-heavier-by-the-day backpack to the border. Just 10k, but along the ubiquitous bumpy, rocky, uneven roads that I've become used to. My abs and quads were straining to keep me upright as gravity tugged on my bag. I have imagined myself falling off one of these moto-taxis on numerous occasions as we rumbled along, and now, I need not wonder any longer. On one particularly steep hill, the bike slowed to chug it's way up and I felt that hand of gravity tighten and yank me backwards. I'm sure with the upmost of grace, I fell off the bike and down the hill. Tangled in the straps, I lay there for a moment before righting myself and dusting off the scratches. My driver, horrified, rushed to help me and would not let me touch the bag, but insisted on carrying it in front of him, however uncomfortable, which actually made the ride a lot easier. Once at the border, I walked into no-mans land, signed out with the police in their little shack, signed out with immigration and for the first time, there was no visa fee to enter the next country!
My first stop, Gisenyi, a resort town for the Rwandan wealthy was somewhat unimpressive. I had decided to hop the border into the Democratic Republic of the Congo, but recently the border rules changed due to corruption, so I would have to email some director in advance, receive an official letter of invitation and then proceed (with a possible tripling or more of the visa fee?), so that was out. Instead, I continued on down Lake Kivu, one of the most scenic drives of my entire trip through gleaming tea plantations, so many hills you'd think they stole them from neighboring countries, each with several little huts perched atop and interesting little villages sprinkled throughout. Kibuye is a small town and the real highlight has been the Bethany hotel. Set right on the water, a gorgeous view of the peaceful lake from my porch and wifi (such a luxury)! I went for a jog followed by a swim in my own little cove this morning and feel so refreshed!
My first stop, Gisenyi, a resort town for the Rwandan wealthy was somewhat unimpressive. I had decided to hop the border into the Democratic Republic of the Congo, but recently the border rules changed due to corruption, so I would have to email some director in advance, receive an official letter of invitation and then proceed (with a possible tripling or more of the visa fee?), thus, with my limited schedule, I did not have the time to verify and so that option was unfortunately out. Instead, I continued on down Lake Kivu, one of the most scenic drives of my entire trip through gleaming tea plantations, so many hills you'd think they stole them from neighboring countries, each with several little huts perched atop and interesting little villages sprinkled throughout, often along the edge of a steep dropoff and the most comanding views! Kibuye is a small town and the real highlight has been the Bethany hotel. Set right on the shore, a gorgeous view of the peaceful lake with it's many hills tipping into the waters from my porch and I must not forget the wireless internet (such a luxury)! I went for a jog in the morning followed by a swim in my own little cove and wonder if there is anything so refreshing!
I made the short two and a half trip to the capital of Kigali through even more inspiring countryside and met Hannes, another couchsurfer who invited me to join him and a local friend to the Kigali Expo. A two week event focusing on commerce during the day and turning into a random bunch of stages with dancers and DJs. I was SO entertained! I think by this time it is clear that I like to dance, but for once I was more interested in watching the locals dance! The majority male crowd danced together so very enthusiastically, perhaps it had something to do with the late hour and the generous amounts of beer available, but I had never seen anything like it. Dressed to the nines, with fedoras and scarves and chic style, they had a repertoire of dance moves that made me grin.
The following day, I ventured into the city on foot, first crossing a valley, one of the many as the city is built on even more hills than Kampala. To get anywhere requires several ups and downs, but it was warm and quite a pleasant walk. The first thing I noticed was how very clean the city was. More so than any other capital and the streets were wide and fairly well developed. Rwanda is the first (and only that I know of) country that requires motortaxis to not only wear, but provide helmets and they actually follow the rules of the road. There was an order and a sense of progress absent in my previous travels that was impressive. Kagame, the president of Rwanda who was actually being sworn in for a third term of seven years on the Monday that I was in town, is apparently attempting to turn the city into an attractive place for investments and business development by, among other things, installing a network of fiber optics. I see a lot of interesting changes taking place here in the next decade.
That night, I was invited into a Rwandan home to celebrate a birthday and served dish after dish of delicious food and the following day, thwarted by bouts of serious downpoor as well as the inexplicable closure, I was unable to visit the genocide memorial, but did manage to try the popular Rwandan buffet for dinner and check out a couple afterhours hotspots.
The next morning, I awoke early to catch a 7hr bus to Bujumbura, the capital of Burundi. I had heard conflicting information about requiring a special invitation to enter, and the price of the visa ranging from $20-$50 USD, but I already missed out on the Congo so I was going to try my luck at the Burundian border. Luck was with me and the visa, with the assistance of a very helpful local, was easy to obtain and only $20! Yet another extremely helpful Rwandan (thank you again Fabrice!) who happened to study in the US, was absolutely a life-saver as Burundi is even more francophone and my limited french was very ineffective. We discovered, after a lengthy process and several motortaxi rides that there were no passenger ferries running to Tanzania, which is a shame because I had heard the trip down Lake Tanganika, one of Africa's deepest, is beautiful. This means my last week will be spent retracing my steps, busing back up and around Lake Victoria (rather than through Tanzania, which would take the same amount of time, but offers no direct buses and no paved roads... I debated for quite some time over which route to take, usually preferring the more rustic/scenic route, but in end decided to visit my friends in Kamapala and Nairobi once more).
After leaving Kampala, (not without taking a bite out of the famed nightlife, two nights in a row working magic on the dance floor 'til dawn, watching movies and wandering the city with a fellow couchsurfer Stephan, getting my hair braided with super hero blue lightening bolts, (much to the glee of the salon :), and topping it all off by attending a ba'hai sunday service in a temple, in which they opened all 6 sets of double doors in around the circular chapel so that the light mixed with the choir voices, swirling around, up to the turquoise ceiling and back down to each person... enchanting!), I took a night bus to Kisoro. I was warned against doing so, but found no other option so off we went into the darkness.
Let me just say, in my humble opinion, Ugandan bus drivers drive like they clinically insane. The road was, as usual, underdeveloped, pitted and potholed as well a continuous series of winding switchbacks and you would not believe the speeds in which we were flying! I lost count of the number of times that every passenger was ejected from their seats and in one, very harrowing instance, the bus nearly crashed, grinding to the right, wheels on my side in the air, people tossed to the side, ladies calling upon "Jesus Christ!" clutching their babies and suddenly we pitched the other direction, a plume of dust filled the bus, we wobbled, found a balance, and amazingly did not slow down AT ALL! The passengers complained loudly, but there was a wall between the cabin and the driver and I, having remained surprisingly calm, kept trying to assure myself that I was going to see the gorillas. We were not going to crash, because I could feel I would see the gorillas... the power of positive thought I figured :).
Fortunately, we made it in one piece, I tracked down a hotel that had rooms with private bathrooms and hot water - I needed a shower after what turned out to be a 12 hour journey (vs. the claimed 8). Alex in Kampala had helped me arrange a permit so I checked in at the office and prepared for tracking gorillas the next day.
The visitors center at Mgahinga National Park is very well developed with a lot of information about the animal life in the forest and the history of the protective efforts for the endangered mnt. gorillas. I was signing in and suddenly there was a rustle behind me. The trail into the forest came to a T just a couple meters from the visitors center and a man came running from around the corner. A giant flash of gray whizzed by followed by a loud CRACK! BANG BANG! "Was that a gorilla?" I asked. Another man raced across the T following the flash with a gun in his hands. Another couple shots rang out and three hikers emerged, huddled together, one girl clutching her back. We had seen these hikers enter the forest just a minute or two earlier and apparently they had come face to face with an angry buffalo who had knocked her down and stepped on her before running away... THIS is why you go hiking in Africa!! It was an exciting opening to our own gorilla tracking.
After a short briefing, four paying trackers including myself, our guide, and our security set out to meet a man with a machete who would lead us to where the gorillas were last sighted and we would track them from there. Because of the buffalo incident, our guide chose to take us around the base of the mountain, outside the forest through charming settlements. As always, children came running from their hiding places and farm animals paid us no attention. Once we forged into the forest, the path, when there was one, was steep. We bushwhacked to an opening where we came upon the most beautiful creatures! I massive silverback gorilla, turned to glance at us and I imagined him thinking, 'Ah... they're back'. I wonder if they notice it's different people each time or if the presence of a few familiar faces is all that matters.
We were meeting the 9 members of the Nyakagezi family. The only family of the three in Mgahinga that is habituated to humans. We kept an average of 7m distance and were allowed to follow them as they moved from tree to tree to bush for a maximum of one hour. The babies swung haphazardly from limbs and the incredibly muscled silverbacks lazed on the ground, sometimes rolling around and even reaching over to caress the babies when they came near. They are so human-like! I wanted so badly to go up and cuddle with them, just to be enveloped in their enormous arms, a giant gorilla hug! They really seemed not to care at all that we were following them and the next thing you know, our time was up and we had to return, bidding farewell to our distant relatives.
The next morning I hired a motorcycle taxi to take me and my seemingly-heavier-by-the-day backpack to the border. Just 10k, but along the ubiquitous bumpy, rocky, uneven roads that I've become used to. My abs and quads were straining to keep me upright as gravity tugged on my bag. I have imagined myself falling off one of these moto-taxis on numerous occasions as we rumbled along, and now, I need not wonder any longer. On one particularly steep hill, the bike slowed to chug it's way up and I felt that hand of gravity tighten and yank me backwards. I'm sure with the upmost of grace, I fell off the bike and down the hill. Tangled in the straps, I lay there for a moment before righting myself and dusting off the scratches. My driver, horrified, rushed to help me and would not let me touch the bag, but insisted on carrying it in front of him, however uncomfortable, which actually made the ride a lot easier. Once at the border, I walked into no-mans land, signed out with the police in their little shack, signed out with immigration and for the first time, there was no visa fee to enter the next country!
My first stop, Gisenyi, a resort town for the Rwandan wealthy was somewhat unimpressive. I had decided to hop the border into the Democratic Republic of the Congo, but recently the border rules changed due to corruption, so I would have to email some director in advance, receive an official letter of invitation and then proceed (with a possible tripling or more of the visa fee?), so that was out. Instead, I continued on down Lake Kivu, one of the most scenic drives of my entire trip through gleaming tea plantations, so many hills you'd think they stole them from neighboring countries, each with several little huts perched atop and interesting little villages sprinkled throughout. Kibuye is a small town and the real highlight has been the Bethany hotel. Set right on the water, a gorgeous view of the peaceful lake from my porch and wifi (such a luxury)! I went for a jog followed by a swim in my own little cove this morning and feel so refreshed!
My first stop, Gisenyi, a resort town for the Rwandan wealthy was somewhat unimpressive. I had decided to hop the border into the Democratic Republic of the Congo, but recently the border rules changed due to corruption, so I would have to email some director in advance, receive an official letter of invitation and then proceed (with a possible tripling or more of the visa fee?), thus, with my limited schedule, I did not have the time to verify and so that option was unfortunately out. Instead, I continued on down Lake Kivu, one of the most scenic drives of my entire trip through gleaming tea plantations, so many hills you'd think they stole them from neighboring countries, each with several little huts perched atop and interesting little villages sprinkled throughout, often along the edge of a steep dropoff and the most comanding views! Kibuye is a small town and the real highlight has been the Bethany hotel. Set right on the shore, a gorgeous view of the peaceful lake with it's many hills tipping into the waters from my porch and I must not forget the wireless internet (such a luxury)! I went for a jog in the morning followed by a swim in my own little cove and wonder if there is anything so refreshing!
I made the short two and a half trip to the capital of Kigali through even more inspiring countryside and met Hannes, another couchsurfer who invited me to join him and a local friend to the Kigali Expo. A two week event focusing on commerce during the day and turning into a random bunch of stages with dancers and DJs. I was SO entertained! I think by this time it is clear that I like to dance, but for once I was more interested in watching the locals dance! The majority male crowd danced together so very enthusiastically, perhaps it had something to do with the late hour and the generous amounts of beer available, but I had never seen anything like it. Dressed to the nines, with fedoras and scarves and chic style, they had a repertoire of dance moves that made me grin.
The following day, I ventured into the city on foot, first crossing a valley, one of the many as the city is built on even more hills than Kampala. To get anywhere requires several ups and downs, but it was warm and quite a pleasant walk. The first thing I noticed was how very clean the city was. More so than any other capital and the streets were wide and fairly well developed. Rwanda is the first (and only that I know of) country that requires motortaxis to not only wear, but provide helmets and they actually follow the rules of the road. There was an order and a sense of progress absent in my previous travels that was impressive. Kagame, the president of Rwanda who was actually being sworn in for a third term of seven years on the Monday that I was in town, is apparently attempting to turn the city into an attractive place for investments and business development by, among other things, installing a network of fiber optics. I see a lot of interesting changes taking place here in the next decade.
That night, I was invited into a Rwandan home to celebrate a birthday and served dish after dish of delicious food and the following day, thwarted by bouts of serious downpoor as well as the inexplicable closure, I was unable to visit the genocide memorial, but did manage to try the popular Rwandan buffet for dinner and check out a couple afterhours hotspots.
The next morning, I awoke early to catch a 7hr bus to Bujumbura, the capital of Burundi. I had heard conflicting information about requiring a special invitation to enter, and the price of the visa ranging from $20-$50 USD, but I already missed out on the Congo so I was going to try my luck at the Burundian border. Luck was with me and the visa, with the assistance of a very helpful local, was easy to obtain and only $20! Yet another extremely helpful Rwandan (thank you again Fabrice!) who happened to study in the US, was absolutely a life-saver as Burundi is even more francophone and my limited french was very ineffective. We discovered, after a lengthy process and several motortaxi rides that there were no passenger ferries running to Tanzania, which is a shame because I had heard the trip down Lake Tanganika, one of Africa's deepest, is beautiful. This means my last week will be spent retracing my steps, busing back up and around Lake Victoria (rather than through Tanzania, which would take the same amount of time, but offers no direct buses and no paved roads... I debated for quite some time over which route to take, usually preferring the more rustic/scenic route, but in end decided to visit my friends in Kamapala and Nairobi once more).
Skipped Highlights
I've missed a couple major stories, so here is a quick synopsis:
The wedding in Arusha
The most random series of events that I have ever witnessed. Dan and I, dressed to the nines in our new, custom tailored African duds, danced and laughed our way through approximately 8 hours of one odd tradition after another, an absolutely stoic, straightfaced wedding party, standing in the back of a truck with the band as we circled the prominant round-a-bouts in town and stopped to take pictures in the middle of one, watched 60+ yr old ladies popin' their booty like they were 40 yrs younger, were called to dance down the aisle to the front and then fed bits of cake in front of everyone and watched strange performances including a man with socks on his hands dancing on his knees with empty glass bottles in his hands and mouth! This was one of the highlights of my time in Africa!
Hunting with the Bushmen
We awoke very early in order to find the Bushmen around dawn. Our lug of a bus trundled through the bush until suddenly we spotted a fire just off the way and could just make out figures hidden behind the brush. Once we disembarked, they wasted no time in frivolities, handed two of us bows (I got one! :) and began jogging away - no words necessary, we were off! To be honest, "hunting" with a bunch of tenderfoot westerners loping behind, I can't imagine they really expected to make a kill, although I have heard of others getting lucky. There was one point in which some little furry animal rushed by and although I drew my bow, there is no way I ever would have let an arrow fly. I ammused myself quite contentedly running around and shooting at random targets, developing quite a good aim if I do say so myself ;) Those trees and bushes didn't see me coming!
We visited the blacksmith in his shop made of twigs and branches. He showed us how he melted scraps of metal into bracelets and arrowheads and we took turns trying out the airbags and stoking the fire. The man commented that I was very good and that I would make a good wife - I'd better make sure to let my next suiter know!
Finally, following Dan's lead, I climbed onto the roof of our bus, while it was moving mind you, and we were soon joined by a couple of the other staff for some bus surfing and the very best way to take in the African countryside! The boys even got some mid-air high-fives with other buses!
Final Final Ceremony
The last ceremony in Mongola Ju was a day filled with both joy and early-onset nostalgia. They had set up a volleyball net and we played a few rounds surrounded tightly by the children who would squeal anytime a rally would end. We played a million hand games and danced and sang with the students. A group of older students sang several goodbye songs in english and it was so lovely and sad that it brought tears to my eyes. They unveiled a sign commemorating the work done by Rustic Pathways and gave us not one, but two gifts. Each of the female staff got kitenges, the cloth wrapped around by the women and the guys got super tight TShirts that said Dubai on them, ha! Then we were presented with a couple gourds on strings and were told that this was the traditional "lunch box" taken on long journeys. Wonderful! We then shared boxes of donations made by the students with the heads of the school as well as a big pot of Guacamole accompanied by their rice and chicken - An African Thanksgiving :)
Friday, August 27, 2010
Country #40!
Today, I write to you from Kampala, Uganda - my 40th country, which means I've finally reached the countdown to 50! I am a list-maker and a count-keeper at heart and my competitive spirit grinned upon crossing the border :). So far, I've met a very friendly pair of couchsurfers that have opened their beautiful home to me as well as helped me shape the next stage of my journey. It is so nice to be in a home especially since I was feeling a bit under the weather with a cold and a sore foot (reason soon to be revealed ;).
Kampala, besides being a capital city is nothing like Nairobi. Nairobi surprised and impressed me with it's relative calm and order. The instant that I stepped off the train (after being given ample time to gather our things as opposed to rushed out) I noticed the platform was clean and there was a conspicuous lack of touts and cab drivers vying for our attention. Luckily, Arthur had a Kenyan friend from University here that came to pick us up and we walked into the city center to check out the business district as well as take in the view from a helipad atop a beautiful conference center. At the ticket desk, Arthur's friend Kigen and one of his friends tried to persuade the stoic man to let us in for the resident's price since we had been living in Tanzania and it was half that of the foreigners ticket. The man said that we had to convince him that we had been living there, so I tried some of my best swahili - to no avail. Suddenly I asked if we could sing and Arthur and I broke into the church song that we had learned in Mongola Ju village. There, in the midst of people in business suits and chandeliers, we sang for our supper and the ticket man, cracking a smile, gave in.
Over the next few days, we got an insiders view of Nairobi and the surrounding area. We tasted the night life including the strip of bars and clubs aptly named 'Electric Avenue' and Rafikiz (Friends) where we danced to a rhythmic mix of live and recorded East African hits. We visited Kigen's development project, were mobbed by more adorable children, drove through enchanting Kenyan countryside over more of the deeply saturated rust-red roads that I had come to love in Tanzania. We spent a night in, treated to a feast by Kigen's girlfriend Rachel - seriously the best meal that we have had in Africa and one too many glasses of wine to count inducing passionate discussions about life and travel and gender roles around the world - It was a splendid evening ('til 4am)!
The next morning, after about an hour and a half of sleep, I bid a fond farewell to Arthur who opted to spend his last few days relaxing on the beaches of Zanzibar and I joined Kigen in a drive 5 hours west to attend his friend's wedding. Another African wedding! This one was a lot different and since it was being held in quite a rural setting, I was probably the first white person that many of the kids had ever seen. Ha, the wide-eyed stares were amusing and I imagined what it must be like to see someone of another race for the first time... In America, I just grew up assuming everyone was American unless I heard an accent. I would never think of addressing someone by their skin color, but here, we have people shouting "Mizungu!" even in cosmopolitan Nairobi!
That night, after a nice meal of local food, Kigen and I met some of his buddies in his home town and after drinking my very first energy drink (I'm working on an hour and a half sleep remember, plus a couple brief dozes in the car), we hit up a place called Signatures - and ROCKED it! :) We claimed an area and the group of us danced until about 6am!!! Being the only white person in the club for most of the night, I had a plethora of people interested in dancing and/or speaking with me. Kigen and a couple of his friends declared themselves my personal body guards which was sweet and even then, I managed to have a handful of hilarious interactions. One massive bouncer took my hand as I passed by and said "I wish to be your very best friend". After dancing with one fellow several times he said, "I wish you were mine... I would have given you a heroic welcome" - Ha! One younger guy 'spelled my name' on his heart by holding my hand to his chest while he flexed his pec muscle and another older guy said that he really enjoyed speaking to... people of my... community, clearly struggling to be politically correct, which I gave him props for, however amusing the comment. Racism is a strange beast... a subject that deserves it's own blog entry at some point.
Needless to say, upon waking up around 8 am in order to visit Kigen's parent's orphan project, I was a bit tired. My left foot was tender to walk on - too much dancing? Never! ;) - and my voice was wavering. The facilities for the children were amazing and I enjoyed touring the compound, but waiting until midnight to catch the bus to Kampala, it was hard to muster much energy. So many nights out (not to mention those with Arthur in Mombasa and Mtwapa) in a row were beginning to take their toll and as I said, after bidding adieu to my new friend Kigen and an over night bus into Uganda, a day off to recover was much needed!
Now, after a day or two of relaxing and exploring the city (a chaotic cluster of crowded streets, cars and trucks and speeding motorcycles causing a choking amount of pollution, a golden mosque, a peaceful cathedral and a fascinating, but somewhat disconcerting market, all bunched together amongst an impressaive amount of green on 7 rolling hills), I'll take a jaunt out to the city if Jinja (love that name), one of the 3 places that claims to be the source of the mighty Nile and then I am organizing my next big adventure - a trek into the jungle to visit the endangered silverback gorillas! I cannot wait to track them deep into the lush flora, bushwhacking our way to observe one of the few families left. Just a couple months ago, Kampala's sole UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kasubi Tombs, were burned down due to civil violence which makes me sad that I came just a little too late and reminds me why I want to see as much as possible, before it's too late!
Kampala, besides being a capital city is nothing like Nairobi. Nairobi surprised and impressed me with it's relative calm and order. The instant that I stepped off the train (after being given ample time to gather our things as opposed to rushed out) I noticed the platform was clean and there was a conspicuous lack of touts and cab drivers vying for our attention. Luckily, Arthur had a Kenyan friend from University here that came to pick us up and we walked into the city center to check out the business district as well as take in the view from a helipad atop a beautiful conference center. At the ticket desk, Arthur's friend Kigen and one of his friends tried to persuade the stoic man to let us in for the resident's price since we had been living in Tanzania and it was half that of the foreigners ticket. The man said that we had to convince him that we had been living there, so I tried some of my best swahili - to no avail. Suddenly I asked if we could sing and Arthur and I broke into the church song that we had learned in Mongola Ju village. There, in the midst of people in business suits and chandeliers, we sang for our supper and the ticket man, cracking a smile, gave in.
Over the next few days, we got an insiders view of Nairobi and the surrounding area. We tasted the night life including the strip of bars and clubs aptly named 'Electric Avenue' and Rafikiz (Friends) where we danced to a rhythmic mix of live and recorded East African hits. We visited Kigen's development project, were mobbed by more adorable children, drove through enchanting Kenyan countryside over more of the deeply saturated rust-red roads that I had come to love in Tanzania. We spent a night in, treated to a feast by Kigen's girlfriend Rachel - seriously the best meal that we have had in Africa and one too many glasses of wine to count inducing passionate discussions about life and travel and gender roles around the world - It was a splendid evening ('til 4am)!
The next morning, after about an hour and a half of sleep, I bid a fond farewell to Arthur who opted to spend his last few days relaxing on the beaches of Zanzibar and I joined Kigen in a drive 5 hours west to attend his friend's wedding. Another African wedding! This one was a lot different and since it was being held in quite a rural setting, I was probably the first white person that many of the kids had ever seen. Ha, the wide-eyed stares were amusing and I imagined what it must be like to see someone of another race for the first time... In America, I just grew up assuming everyone was American unless I heard an accent. I would never think of addressing someone by their skin color, but here, we have people shouting "Mizungu!" even in cosmopolitan Nairobi!
That night, after a nice meal of local food, Kigen and I met some of his buddies in his home town and after drinking my very first energy drink (I'm working on an hour and a half sleep remember, plus a couple brief dozes in the car), we hit up a place called Signatures - and ROCKED it! :) We claimed an area and the group of us danced until about 6am!!! Being the only white person in the club for most of the night, I had a plethora of people interested in dancing and/or speaking with me. Kigen and a couple of his friends declared themselves my personal body guards which was sweet and even then, I managed to have a handful of hilarious interactions. One massive bouncer took my hand as I passed by and said "I wish to be your very best friend". After dancing with one fellow several times he said, "I wish you were mine... I would have given you a heroic welcome" - Ha! One younger guy 'spelled my name' on his heart by holding my hand to his chest while he flexed his pec muscle and another older guy said that he really enjoyed speaking to... people of my... community, clearly struggling to be politically correct, which I gave him props for, however amusing the comment. Racism is a strange beast... a subject that deserves it's own blog entry at some point.
Needless to say, upon waking up around 8 am in order to visit Kigen's parent's orphan project, I was a bit tired. My left foot was tender to walk on - too much dancing? Never! ;) - and my voice was wavering. The facilities for the children were amazing and I enjoyed touring the compound, but waiting until midnight to catch the bus to Kampala, it was hard to muster much energy. So many nights out (not to mention those with Arthur in Mombasa and Mtwapa) in a row were beginning to take their toll and as I said, after bidding adieu to my new friend Kigen and an over night bus into Uganda, a day off to recover was much needed!
Now, after a day or two of relaxing and exploring the city (a chaotic cluster of crowded streets, cars and trucks and speeding motorcycles causing a choking amount of pollution, a golden mosque, a peaceful cathedral and a fascinating, but somewhat disconcerting market, all bunched together amongst an impressaive amount of green on 7 rolling hills), I'll take a jaunt out to the city if Jinja (love that name), one of the 3 places that claims to be the source of the mighty Nile and then I am organizing my next big adventure - a trek into the jungle to visit the endangered silverback gorillas! I cannot wait to track them deep into the lush flora, bushwhacking our way to observe one of the few families left. Just a couple months ago, Kampala's sole UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kasubi Tombs, were burned down due to civil violence which makes me sad that I came just a little too late and reminds me why I want to see as much as possible, before it's too late!
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Safari Njema (Bon Voyage)
Wow. There is something so quintessential about journeying by train across the African landscape. Arthur, who has been an amazing travel companion, and I booked a compartment on the overnight train from Mombasa to Nairobi after spending 4 glorious days exploring Mombasa and relaxing on a beach north of the city in our own private cottage on the waterfront. We swam in the Ocean a couple times a day, wandered the rural villages through mud huts and forgotten pathways and even discovered an abandoned resort (an eerie shell of what was once perhaps one of the largest resorts in the area, ceilings deteriorated from mold, the pool quarter-filled with a mysterious golden liquid, spiral staircases covered in dust and broken glass and the most impressive building, built directly on a cliff above the ocean, a three bedroom house with a 270 degree view of the turquoise waters below. We bought bananas, avocado, tomatoes and a loaf of bread for about a dollar, snuck up to the master bedroom's balcony and served up a picnic with a five-star view - paradise!)
At night, after sharing a few drinks with a pair of fellow Irish travelers, I was rocked to sleep by the gentle creaking of our train car, my top bunk actually quite comfortable - like a swaying cradle. The morning suddenly began with the clanging of a bell announcing breakfast and we lifted the shade to scan for wildlife. Zebras and Gazelle were the first to be spotted :).
It feels so good to be back on the wild road. Day one of the adventure was Friday the 13th and although I am only mildly-stitious, the run of bad luck was quite obnoxious. Arthur, Dan and I had gone out dancing 'til late (highlight of the club was dancing to pop music with a Masai man decked out in full traditional dress including beaded bracelets up his arms and around his forehead :) so we pulled an all-nighter and upon arriving at the train station at 5:30am I could not find our train ticket. After a distressing period of looking for it and looking for our bus, we got everything situated and were heading north on what was supposed to be a 6hr express bus. There was no express about it. It stopped constantly, the entire journey actually took us nearly twelve hours and in the process, my shoulder bag's zipper ceased working, my flip-flop broke so I walked barefoot through Mombasa and the bus put a new hole in my backpack! What a day.
Amazingly, that night I was able to find a pair of used reef flips at a street stall for about $5 and the next day, without any fiddling, the zipper began working again! We also found some great food and a couple decent places to stay - thank goodness for Saturday the 14th :)
This summer of working for Rustic Pathways was brought to a close with a couple epic experiences. Three days of safari in the Serengeti, three days spent relaxing on the beaches of Zanzibar and two weeks of building classrooms in a tiny village near Karatu were simply Amazing! Not to mention hunting with the bushmen, participating in a local wedding and dancing at a club with a Masai warrior!
For safari (the Swahili word for journey), we packed our things onto one of the ubiquitous safari vehicles, old time landcruisers retrofitted so that the roof can raise to allow us to stand and take photos as we rumble past photogenic wildlife set against the legendary African backdrop of Acacia and Baobab trees. Even when the animals were hidden away and the landscape flattened into a broad expanse of dried grasses, it was incredibly inspiring to stand up, arms resting on the roof, camera in hand, Ancient African air whizzing around us and working it's way through my system... Searching for the actual pride rock and suddenly we would slow, shhhh, a lion, no two, no four, look at the two cubs! Truly, there is nothing like spotting these beautiful creatures in their own land. Watching them stretch, stroll, stalk and sleep - in the wild!
We slept in tents in a campground and the first night, just as I snuggled down into my sleeping bag I heard an elephant sound his trumpet not far off - SO cool! We went on game-drives twice a day for a few hours each time. One morning we awoke before the sun rose and drove to an open area to witness the day begin. A pack of spotted hyenas were already there, prowling for leftovers and our driver waved a red shawl so that they would approach us expecting meat. They were surprisingly cute! In just three days of hunting, we tracked down elephants, lions, leopards (one of which had dragged a gazelle high up into a tree for an evening feast), zebras, giraffes, ostriches, hyenas, warthogs, crocodiles, hippos, tens of thousands of gazelle, migrating herds of wildebeests, hartebeests, impalas, mongoose, jackals, waterbucks, Elands, and water buffalos! One of the highlights was visiting a hippo pool, severely receded in dry season, there must have been at least 75 hippos puzzle pieced together in a reduction of putrid sludge - approximately 4 parts waste, 4 parts rotting refuse and 2 parts leftover river-water. Hippos are apparently one of the most aggressive animals and we watched them fighting over the limited space, their massive maws emerging from the soup, stretched nearly 180 degrees, teeth bared, issuing gurgling growls and chomping down on each other. It was nice to be out of the cruiser for a time, observing the animals up close. The only animals that we wanted to see and were unable to find were cheetahs and the endangered black rhino (which I was lucky enough to spot on my next safari in the Ngorongoro Crater).
Once back to camp on our last evening, after hours sitting and standing in place, we decided to put on an impromptu Zumba session. Our guide and the other groups watched amusedly as we laughed our way through the songs. The following morning, we left camp early in order to get to the airport in time - at least a good 7 hour drive. Unfortunately, our safari vehicle had had enough and it broke down no less than four times and got a flat tire! On about our third surprise stop, we climbed out and into the middle of nowhere. As far as one could see, there were only a few speckled trees off in the distance and a nearly deserted road. Stuck in the Serengeti. I brought out catch phrase and we began passing it around in a circle. One by one, Masai began appearing on the horizon and drifting towards this strange group of wazungu (the swahili term for foreigners) passing this obnoxiously beeping plastic disc around between themselves shouting at eachother - what they must have been thinking! Soon, there were about ten adults and children standing just 5 or so feet away from our group staring at this crazy scene. Suddenly I thought, why don't we put on a show for them! We are always playing the tourist, wanting to see locals perform, why not the other way around?? I grabbed the speakers and my ipod, selected 'Shake Senora' which is an easy zumba routine and there, in the middle of the Serengeti, we shimmied and shook for a random group of Masai! It was epic.
We raced to the airport and our luck failed us once again. We narrowly missed the plane. But, our luck immediately returned when there happened to be a flight just thirty minutes later, so voila! Next thing you know, we were settling into our posh hotel rooms, canopied beds sprinkled with flowers, hot showers and balconies - fabulous! The hotel had a private beach, infinity pool facing the sunset, sports bar and fancy restaurant (that served the most delicious continental breakfast), live traditional music in the evenings, a spa (which I splurged on a special swahili scrub massage for my birthday) and a turn-down service. It was such a treat!
We spent the first day exploring Stone Town, famous for it's ornately carved wooden doors, and shopping, returning in time to take a dip in the Indian ocean, relax by the pool, watch the sunset and enjoy a candle lit dinner on the beach (I had the grilled ostrich steak :). The next day was one of pure bliss. We spent the day sailing on an African dhow to a couple different small islands including a pristine white sand bank that, by the time that we returned, had been completely submerged due to the tide. We snorkeled around coral beds through schools of shimmering fish that swirled around you like iridescent tulip petals caught in a breeze and making sure to avoid the menacing pitch black sea urchins the size of basketballs. Lunch was nothing short of manna from heaven - an all you can eat seafood selection including lobster, calamari, tuna, cod, scallops, local sauces made with tamarind and coconut and for dessert? An exotic array of fruits from the island that our guide cut open right in front of our table, one by one so that we could try them all. Sweet grapefruit, oranges, custard apples, rambutans, lady-finger bananas, red bananas, two different types of mango, passion fruit, star fruit, pineapple, sugar cane and even baobab seeds - Ahh, I'm salivating just remembering it! To wrap it all up, we were offered coffee and amarula, a sweet African liqueur and then given time to either sail on another type of boat or sunbathe. Sublime.
That night, we visited the fish market where the local fishermen BBQ their catch of the day, bake up special breads and display them in hundreds of stands set up by the waterfront. The lights and the people and the smell of BBQ make for an enchanting atmosphere. The winner of the evening was the "Zanzibar Pizza", a dough ball flattened and fried with several combinations of ingredients, my favorite being nutella and banana (the caramel mango was a close second :).
Alas, all good things come to an end and the next morning we were en route to Arusha. Yet another set of goodbyes and another set of new students arriving and just like that, another stage of the summer had begun. A whirlwind week of tasting the exotic side of Africa and my next charge was to spend two weeks living on a coffee plantation, working in a small village about 40 minutes away finishing new classrooms for the school with a group of ten students. An equally inspiring experience in an entirely different way.
I have now just arrived in Uganda and will hopefully post another 'catching up' entry soon - so many incredible experiences!
At night, after sharing a few drinks with a pair of fellow Irish travelers, I was rocked to sleep by the gentle creaking of our train car, my top bunk actually quite comfortable - like a swaying cradle. The morning suddenly began with the clanging of a bell announcing breakfast and we lifted the shade to scan for wildlife. Zebras and Gazelle were the first to be spotted :).
It feels so good to be back on the wild road. Day one of the adventure was Friday the 13th and although I am only mildly-stitious, the run of bad luck was quite obnoxious. Arthur, Dan and I had gone out dancing 'til late (highlight of the club was dancing to pop music with a Masai man decked out in full traditional dress including beaded bracelets up his arms and around his forehead :) so we pulled an all-nighter and upon arriving at the train station at 5:30am I could not find our train ticket. After a distressing period of looking for it and looking for our bus, we got everything situated and were heading north on what was supposed to be a 6hr express bus. There was no express about it. It stopped constantly, the entire journey actually took us nearly twelve hours and in the process, my shoulder bag's zipper ceased working, my flip-flop broke so I walked barefoot through Mombasa and the bus put a new hole in my backpack! What a day.
Amazingly, that night I was able to find a pair of used reef flips at a street stall for about $5 and the next day, without any fiddling, the zipper began working again! We also found some great food and a couple decent places to stay - thank goodness for Saturday the 14th :)
This summer of working for Rustic Pathways was brought to a close with a couple epic experiences. Three days of safari in the Serengeti, three days spent relaxing on the beaches of Zanzibar and two weeks of building classrooms in a tiny village near Karatu were simply Amazing! Not to mention hunting with the bushmen, participating in a local wedding and dancing at a club with a Masai warrior!
For safari (the Swahili word for journey), we packed our things onto one of the ubiquitous safari vehicles, old time landcruisers retrofitted so that the roof can raise to allow us to stand and take photos as we rumble past photogenic wildlife set against the legendary African backdrop of Acacia and Baobab trees. Even when the animals were hidden away and the landscape flattened into a broad expanse of dried grasses, it was incredibly inspiring to stand up, arms resting on the roof, camera in hand, Ancient African air whizzing around us and working it's way through my system... Searching for the actual pride rock and suddenly we would slow, shhhh, a lion, no two, no four, look at the two cubs! Truly, there is nothing like spotting these beautiful creatures in their own land. Watching them stretch, stroll, stalk and sleep - in the wild!
We slept in tents in a campground and the first night, just as I snuggled down into my sleeping bag I heard an elephant sound his trumpet not far off - SO cool! We went on game-drives twice a day for a few hours each time. One morning we awoke before the sun rose and drove to an open area to witness the day begin. A pack of spotted hyenas were already there, prowling for leftovers and our driver waved a red shawl so that they would approach us expecting meat. They were surprisingly cute! In just three days of hunting, we tracked down elephants, lions, leopards (one of which had dragged a gazelle high up into a tree for an evening feast), zebras, giraffes, ostriches, hyenas, warthogs, crocodiles, hippos, tens of thousands of gazelle, migrating herds of wildebeests, hartebeests, impalas, mongoose, jackals, waterbucks, Elands, and water buffalos! One of the highlights was visiting a hippo pool, severely receded in dry season, there must have been at least 75 hippos puzzle pieced together in a reduction of putrid sludge - approximately 4 parts waste, 4 parts rotting refuse and 2 parts leftover river-water. Hippos are apparently one of the most aggressive animals and we watched them fighting over the limited space, their massive maws emerging from the soup, stretched nearly 180 degrees, teeth bared, issuing gurgling growls and chomping down on each other. It was nice to be out of the cruiser for a time, observing the animals up close. The only animals that we wanted to see and were unable to find were cheetahs and the endangered black rhino (which I was lucky enough to spot on my next safari in the Ngorongoro Crater).
Once back to camp on our last evening, after hours sitting and standing in place, we decided to put on an impromptu Zumba session. Our guide and the other groups watched amusedly as we laughed our way through the songs. The following morning, we left camp early in order to get to the airport in time - at least a good 7 hour drive. Unfortunately, our safari vehicle had had enough and it broke down no less than four times and got a flat tire! On about our third surprise stop, we climbed out and into the middle of nowhere. As far as one could see, there were only a few speckled trees off in the distance and a nearly deserted road. Stuck in the Serengeti. I brought out catch phrase and we began passing it around in a circle. One by one, Masai began appearing on the horizon and drifting towards this strange group of wazungu (the swahili term for foreigners) passing this obnoxiously beeping plastic disc around between themselves shouting at eachother - what they must have been thinking! Soon, there were about ten adults and children standing just 5 or so feet away from our group staring at this crazy scene. Suddenly I thought, why don't we put on a show for them! We are always playing the tourist, wanting to see locals perform, why not the other way around?? I grabbed the speakers and my ipod, selected 'Shake Senora' which is an easy zumba routine and there, in the middle of the Serengeti, we shimmied and shook for a random group of Masai! It was epic.
We raced to the airport and our luck failed us once again. We narrowly missed the plane. But, our luck immediately returned when there happened to be a flight just thirty minutes later, so voila! Next thing you know, we were settling into our posh hotel rooms, canopied beds sprinkled with flowers, hot showers and balconies - fabulous! The hotel had a private beach, infinity pool facing the sunset, sports bar and fancy restaurant (that served the most delicious continental breakfast), live traditional music in the evenings, a spa (which I splurged on a special swahili scrub massage for my birthday) and a turn-down service. It was such a treat!
We spent the first day exploring Stone Town, famous for it's ornately carved wooden doors, and shopping, returning in time to take a dip in the Indian ocean, relax by the pool, watch the sunset and enjoy a candle lit dinner on the beach (I had the grilled ostrich steak :). The next day was one of pure bliss. We spent the day sailing on an African dhow to a couple different small islands including a pristine white sand bank that, by the time that we returned, had been completely submerged due to the tide. We snorkeled around coral beds through schools of shimmering fish that swirled around you like iridescent tulip petals caught in a breeze and making sure to avoid the menacing pitch black sea urchins the size of basketballs. Lunch was nothing short of manna from heaven - an all you can eat seafood selection including lobster, calamari, tuna, cod, scallops, local sauces made with tamarind and coconut and for dessert? An exotic array of fruits from the island that our guide cut open right in front of our table, one by one so that we could try them all. Sweet grapefruit, oranges, custard apples, rambutans, lady-finger bananas, red bananas, two different types of mango, passion fruit, star fruit, pineapple, sugar cane and even baobab seeds - Ahh, I'm salivating just remembering it! To wrap it all up, we were offered coffee and amarula, a sweet African liqueur and then given time to either sail on another type of boat or sunbathe. Sublime.
That night, we visited the fish market where the local fishermen BBQ their catch of the day, bake up special breads and display them in hundreds of stands set up by the waterfront. The lights and the people and the smell of BBQ make for an enchanting atmosphere. The winner of the evening was the "Zanzibar Pizza", a dough ball flattened and fried with several combinations of ingredients, my favorite being nutella and banana (the caramel mango was a close second :).
Alas, all good things come to an end and the next morning we were en route to Arusha. Yet another set of goodbyes and another set of new students arriving and just like that, another stage of the summer had begun. A whirlwind week of tasting the exotic side of Africa and my next charge was to spend two weeks living on a coffee plantation, working in a small village about 40 minutes away finishing new classrooms for the school with a group of ten students. An equally inspiring experience in an entirely different way.
I have now just arrived in Uganda and will hopefully post another 'catching up' entry soon - so many incredible experiences!
Friday, June 25, 2010
Snows of Kilimanjaro
The bookcase in our staffroom has a nice little collection, including several Africa and Tanzania specific additions. Although I brought a book with me, I set that aside for when I start traveling on my own and instead picked up 'The Snows of Kilimanjaro' by Ernest Hemingway. What better inspiration to absorb before setting out on my own journey up the legendary mountain? Unfortunately, the story was, as far as I could tell because I only managed to get about half way through it, only set in Africa, somewhere near the mountain and had nothing else to do with it. The main characters were annoying and the timeline jumped arbitrarily between past and present... I hear the man dies in the end. I still plan on finishing it at some point despite having started another book, but as much as the book itself was a disappointment, Mount Kilimanjaro, the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, was anything but.
Twenty students arrived late Wednesday night and after a quick briefing, tried to get some sleep before an early start the next day. My fellow Rustic guide, Taylor, one of our two Kili guides, Everest and I checked the gear of each of our 4 climbers, 3 girls and a boy. Just our luck, the only student to have lost luggage, was one of our Kili girls so we had to scramble to get enough gear together for her to at least begin the hike. I didn't tell her that it took six days to recover mine!
A two and a half hour drive brought us to the base of our trek and after some time getting permits arranged, we dove into the rainforest. Throughout the trek, we traverse 4 different climate zones which is one of the most impressive parts of the hike. The trail is well developed in the beginning and set up for day hikers as well. Lush green vines, tree trunks covered in moss and thin fluttering leaves that gave them the appearance of giant bird necks craning to see above the canopy. The dirt was a deep purple-red and roots criss-crossing the trail were the vericose veins of this vibrant scene.
We arrived at the first camp after about 5 hours of hiking. Since the kids were a bit jet-lagged it was a tiring walk and we were all looking forward to settling in to our cute little A-frame huts for a good nights sleep - after of course, a delicious feast cooked by our wonderful Kili cook Samson. A thick mist slid in during the night and greeted us at our doorstep. Breakfast was yet another feast. Tea, hot cocoa or coffee, Porridge, toast with jam, honey, peanutbutter, butter, scrambled eggs, fresh fruit and even a little meat! Nice and full for the next 6 hour hike.
This time, it only took us about half an hour to climb above the damp, rainforest and enter the 'heather and moorland' region. Quite suddenly we found ourselves on a much drier, sage and heather lined path with small bunches of wild flowers sprinkled about. Everything opened up as we left the green behind and made our way into an area reminiscent of the American southwest. We were given delicious pack lunches each day augmented by hot soup - yummm soup! Night two was spent at Horombo camp. The six of us enjoying a rowdy game of catchphrase until we were joined by a breakdancing Japanese guy who seemed to savor the opportunity to practice his english. Ahh catchphrase never fails to bring people together :).
Day three was a day of aclimization so we slept in and took an easy hour and a half stroll up to a place called Zebra Rocks. Heavy clouds rolled across the land again and after relaxing and playing on the boulders for a while we returned to camp, ate, cuddled up in our bags and took turns making up the most entertaining story about Tina and Terry, a brother and sister who had lost their parents and got mixed up with a pirate alien and ate magical foods (namely a grilled cheese sandwich and 'black cow' shake that the girls had been craving), that transported them through a mysterious vortex and I musn't forget their bumbling Uncle Taylor that became a hero anytime it was Taylor's turn :).
Day four, the mists turned to rain and after water-proofing ourselves and our gear we set off for the final camp. This time, we walked through an expanse of dirt and rock, very little vegetation and a couple hours in were guarded on either side by Uhuru peak (the highest, which we would be climbing) and Mwenzi peak (striking a majestic sillouhette, a very technical climb which few attempt). Staring into the white void ahead, we would occasionally see a dark pinpoint materialize. Slowing gaining size as we approached eachother the pinpoint would take form, two moving legs, a torso enlarged by a backpack, a head and always a massive bundle perched precariously atop. The porters (of which our group alone had 12, two per person!), amazed me not only with their stamina, but also with their finely tuned balancing act, carrying woven baskets, plastic jugs and huge duffles on top of their heads, with such ease that they almost seemed to forget about the load all together!
The sun finally stepped in and scared away the clouds so that we could finally see our goal. Once at Kibo hut, the students rested and I set off for some bouldering to take in the sunset. I am grateful that as of yet, I have not been much affected by high altitude so despite breathing being a little more difficult I felt wonderful. Being in such beautiful places, the feeling of freedom rendered by the scenery and the daily hiking routine is just so uplifting! I felt so content... and lucky! One of our students however was feeling the pressure and struggled to sleep with an intense headache. After an early dinner, we all tried to force ourselves to sleep around 7pm, quite the challenge for me, and in the end I think I got about an hour's worth before the 11pm wakeup call.
This was the moment! We pulled on as many layers as we could, had a small breakfast of tea and cookies and gathered outside the hut to begin our ascent. We were very fortunate to have a clear sky, the stars lent their sparkles for something to climb towards and "pole pole" or "slowly slowly" we inched up the steep incline. The night before, the climbers had been faced with rain the entire way up, which made the slopes very slick and they even had snowfall at the top! Many more were thwarted by the weather so despite the difficulty, it could have been much worse.
About an hour and a half into the hike, the student who had been most affected by the altitude could not continue and had to return to camp. That left us with 5 to forge onward. Step by step, sometimes excruciateingly slow, we climbed. Our water bottles froze so we had extras wrapped in clothing inside our packs, but my fingertips froze as well inspite of the three pairs of gloves. I had brought a set of toe warmers so my feet, in my little ol' running shoes and an excellent pair of hiking socks stayed warm until just about an hour from the summit. My lips actually froze and when trying to issue words of encouragement, I ended up sounding like my entire mouth had been shot full of novicane. I am SO very proud of the girls! They battled their way up that mountain, little by little, passing other groups and we were rewarded with a brilliant redish-orange band across the horizon heralding the rising of the sun that poked its first few rays above just as we were reaching Uhuru... Freedom (in swahili)!
Exhausted, but happy, we rested on the rocks, took a few obligatory photos and began the descent. The girls had put every last drop of energy into the climb so coming down was slow and tedious. I stayed behind with the last student, a very cool, down to earth and tough girl who had to call on that mysterious energy reserve that I became all too familiar with in my descent from Huyana Potosi. The intense sun did not help and once we finally arrived back at the hut, everyone had collapsed in their beds uninterested in food, only sleep. Unfortunately, we could not afford that luxury. By the time I arrived, the others had rested some, but it was time to pack up, eat a quick lunch and hike back to the second camp, both to sleep at a lower altitude and to be closer to the base for the following day. I can't say that there were too many smiles after reaching the summit that day. Drained and groggy (I actually felt surprisingly well, boosted by the memory of the adventure) the students, Taylor and I retraced our steps to the second camp for a total of about 15 straight hours of hiking. Phew! After yet another delicious meal (at this point, the students were all souped out, but I don't think that could ever happen to me! :), this was one night that I had no problem falling asleep early!
I awoke very early in the morning to a massive bottom lip. A combination of the cold and the sun had severely damaged my poor lip and it felt as if it was about to pop - a free gift from the mountain, Kilimanjaro colligen. It took several hours for the swelling to subside, but it was still very dry, tender and tingly. Our final day of hiking down went quickly and after the open moorland and the rainforest slid by, we found ourselves passing under the gate, conquerors of Kili, and salivating over a hot shower.
Three of my climbers flew home the next day, their African adventure complete. One is staying another week to work in one of the villages, luckily the same program that I am now working on and yet another batch of students have arrived. For the next two weeks, I'll be doing development work in a small village, set in the midst of banana and avocado trees, outside Arusha called Poli. I have all girls this week and they seem like a great bunch already. Internet is still frustratingly limited so I've prewritten this and will cross my fingers that it sends at one point!
For more photos, check out my facebook album - Jambo from Africa!
Twenty students arrived late Wednesday night and after a quick briefing, tried to get some sleep before an early start the next day. My fellow Rustic guide, Taylor, one of our two Kili guides, Everest and I checked the gear of each of our 4 climbers, 3 girls and a boy. Just our luck, the only student to have lost luggage, was one of our Kili girls so we had to scramble to get enough gear together for her to at least begin the hike. I didn't tell her that it took six days to recover mine!
A two and a half hour drive brought us to the base of our trek and after some time getting permits arranged, we dove into the rainforest. Throughout the trek, we traverse 4 different climate zones which is one of the most impressive parts of the hike. The trail is well developed in the beginning and set up for day hikers as well. Lush green vines, tree trunks covered in moss and thin fluttering leaves that gave them the appearance of giant bird necks craning to see above the canopy. The dirt was a deep purple-red and roots criss-crossing the trail were the vericose veins of this vibrant scene.
We arrived at the first camp after about 5 hours of hiking. Since the kids were a bit jet-lagged it was a tiring walk and we were all looking forward to settling in to our cute little A-frame huts for a good nights sleep - after of course, a delicious feast cooked by our wonderful Kili cook Samson. A thick mist slid in during the night and greeted us at our doorstep. Breakfast was yet another feast. Tea, hot cocoa or coffee, Porridge, toast with jam, honey, peanutbutter, butter, scrambled eggs, fresh fruit and even a little meat! Nice and full for the next 6 hour hike.
This time, it only took us about half an hour to climb above the damp, rainforest and enter the 'heather and moorland' region. Quite suddenly we found ourselves on a much drier, sage and heather lined path with small bunches of wild flowers sprinkled about. Everything opened up as we left the green behind and made our way into an area reminiscent of the American southwest. We were given delicious pack lunches each day augmented by hot soup - yummm soup! Night two was spent at Horombo camp. The six of us enjoying a rowdy game of catchphrase until we were joined by a breakdancing Japanese guy who seemed to savor the opportunity to practice his english. Ahh catchphrase never fails to bring people together :).
Day three was a day of aclimization so we slept in and took an easy hour and a half stroll up to a place called Zebra Rocks. Heavy clouds rolled across the land again and after relaxing and playing on the boulders for a while we returned to camp, ate, cuddled up in our bags and took turns making up the most entertaining story about Tina and Terry, a brother and sister who had lost their parents and got mixed up with a pirate alien and ate magical foods (namely a grilled cheese sandwich and 'black cow' shake that the girls had been craving), that transported them through a mysterious vortex and I musn't forget their bumbling Uncle Taylor that became a hero anytime it was Taylor's turn :).
Day four, the mists turned to rain and after water-proofing ourselves and our gear we set off for the final camp. This time, we walked through an expanse of dirt and rock, very little vegetation and a couple hours in were guarded on either side by Uhuru peak (the highest, which we would be climbing) and Mwenzi peak (striking a majestic sillouhette, a very technical climb which few attempt). Staring into the white void ahead, we would occasionally see a dark pinpoint materialize. Slowing gaining size as we approached eachother the pinpoint would take form, two moving legs, a torso enlarged by a backpack, a head and always a massive bundle perched precariously atop. The porters (of which our group alone had 12, two per person!), amazed me not only with their stamina, but also with their finely tuned balancing act, carrying woven baskets, plastic jugs and huge duffles on top of their heads, with such ease that they almost seemed to forget about the load all together!
The sun finally stepped in and scared away the clouds so that we could finally see our goal. Once at Kibo hut, the students rested and I set off for some bouldering to take in the sunset. I am grateful that as of yet, I have not been much affected by high altitude so despite breathing being a little more difficult I felt wonderful. Being in such beautiful places, the feeling of freedom rendered by the scenery and the daily hiking routine is just so uplifting! I felt so content... and lucky! One of our students however was feeling the pressure and struggled to sleep with an intense headache. After an early dinner, we all tried to force ourselves to sleep around 7pm, quite the challenge for me, and in the end I think I got about an hour's worth before the 11pm wakeup call.
This was the moment! We pulled on as many layers as we could, had a small breakfast of tea and cookies and gathered outside the hut to begin our ascent. We were very fortunate to have a clear sky, the stars lent their sparkles for something to climb towards and "pole pole" or "slowly slowly" we inched up the steep incline. The night before, the climbers had been faced with rain the entire way up, which made the slopes very slick and they even had snowfall at the top! Many more were thwarted by the weather so despite the difficulty, it could have been much worse.
About an hour and a half into the hike, the student who had been most affected by the altitude could not continue and had to return to camp. That left us with 5 to forge onward. Step by step, sometimes excruciateingly slow, we climbed. Our water bottles froze so we had extras wrapped in clothing inside our packs, but my fingertips froze as well inspite of the three pairs of gloves. I had brought a set of toe warmers so my feet, in my little ol' running shoes and an excellent pair of hiking socks stayed warm until just about an hour from the summit. My lips actually froze and when trying to issue words of encouragement, I ended up sounding like my entire mouth had been shot full of novicane. I am SO very proud of the girls! They battled their way up that mountain, little by little, passing other groups and we were rewarded with a brilliant redish-orange band across the horizon heralding the rising of the sun that poked its first few rays above just as we were reaching Uhuru... Freedom (in swahili)!
Exhausted, but happy, we rested on the rocks, took a few obligatory photos and began the descent. The girls had put every last drop of energy into the climb so coming down was slow and tedious. I stayed behind with the last student, a very cool, down to earth and tough girl who had to call on that mysterious energy reserve that I became all too familiar with in my descent from Huyana Potosi. The intense sun did not help and once we finally arrived back at the hut, everyone had collapsed in their beds uninterested in food, only sleep. Unfortunately, we could not afford that luxury. By the time I arrived, the others had rested some, but it was time to pack up, eat a quick lunch and hike back to the second camp, both to sleep at a lower altitude and to be closer to the base for the following day. I can't say that there were too many smiles after reaching the summit that day. Drained and groggy (I actually felt surprisingly well, boosted by the memory of the adventure) the students, Taylor and I retraced our steps to the second camp for a total of about 15 straight hours of hiking. Phew! After yet another delicious meal (at this point, the students were all souped out, but I don't think that could ever happen to me! :), this was one night that I had no problem falling asleep early!
I awoke very early in the morning to a massive bottom lip. A combination of the cold and the sun had severely damaged my poor lip and it felt as if it was about to pop - a free gift from the mountain, Kilimanjaro colligen. It took several hours for the swelling to subside, but it was still very dry, tender and tingly. Our final day of hiking down went quickly and after the open moorland and the rainforest slid by, we found ourselves passing under the gate, conquerors of Kili, and salivating over a hot shower.
Three of my climbers flew home the next day, their African adventure complete. One is staying another week to work in one of the villages, luckily the same program that I am now working on and yet another batch of students have arrived. For the next two weeks, I'll be doing development work in a small village, set in the midst of banana and avocado trees, outside Arusha called Poli. I have all girls this week and they seem like a great bunch already. Internet is still frustratingly limited so I've prewritten this and will cross my fingers that it sends at one point!
For more photos, check out my facebook album - Jambo from Africa!
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Lost and Found
As many of you may have read, as excited as I was to finally step onto the continent of Africa and add Tanzania as my 38th country, my backpack was apparently a little nervous and it took an extra SIX days to arrive. I'll be honest. I don't usually follow the sage advice of packing an extra change of clothing and my bathroom supplies such as toothbrush and paste. For no other reason than I desire to carry on as little as possible and a (foolish) faith that this day in age, luggage is rarely lost and if so, it is recovered within 24hrs. Ha!
What a mess it was trying to figure out where it was! After it was not automatically delivered the next day, I began my hunt and found it to be extremely difficult from Africa. Luckily, we have wifi here at the base so that I could search online, but calling was impossible. I am extremely fortunate to have the more wondeful parents who sprung into action for me and made numerous calls from the states in order to get some answers. Somehow, they had record of the bag being checked in at JFK, but never recorded it landing in either Amsterdam or Kilimanjaro, believed it was "forwarded on" to my final destination and that it was "in transit" but could not confirm... so frustrating.
Long story short, I spent the first week of my time in Africa in this nice little travel dress, borrowing clothes one day when it was too cold, as well as toothpaste and shower supplies etc. I was so grateful that by sheer coincidence I had packed my tooth and hair brush, a pair of yoga pants and a jacket. With my previous entry being about all of these fabulous things to pack - I learned first-hand, how few things you actually need to get by!
I have so many stories to tell, but the internet has been incredibly slow and unreliable, so I will end this entry now with a big hug for all my friends out there and a promise to write more details when I return from... Mt. Kilimanjaro!! I am leaving tomorrow to guide 4 students to the summit of Africa's tallest mountain and the tallest free-standing mountain in the world!!!
What a mess it was trying to figure out where it was! After it was not automatically delivered the next day, I began my hunt and found it to be extremely difficult from Africa. Luckily, we have wifi here at the base so that I could search online, but calling was impossible. I am extremely fortunate to have the more wondeful parents who sprung into action for me and made numerous calls from the states in order to get some answers. Somehow, they had record of the bag being checked in at JFK, but never recorded it landing in either Amsterdam or Kilimanjaro, believed it was "forwarded on" to my final destination and that it was "in transit" but could not confirm... so frustrating.
Long story short, I spent the first week of my time in Africa in this nice little travel dress, borrowing clothes one day when it was too cold, as well as toothpaste and shower supplies etc. I was so grateful that by sheer coincidence I had packed my tooth and hair brush, a pair of yoga pants and a jacket. With my previous entry being about all of these fabulous things to pack - I learned first-hand, how few things you actually need to get by!
I have so many stories to tell, but the internet has been incredibly slow and unreliable, so I will end this entry now with a big hug for all my friends out there and a promise to write more details when I return from... Mt. Kilimanjaro!! I am leaving tomorrow to guide 4 students to the summit of Africa's tallest mountain and the tallest free-standing mountain in the world!!!
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
In My Pack
It is FINALLY that time again! After a record length of stay in the States, I am gathering up my backpack and travel gear with my sights set on the new and exciting destination of Tanzania, Africa! This last week had me hustling about, anxiously crossing things off my ToDo list and fitting in as much as possible. I've taught my last dance class (although I am hoping to find a way to keep dancing without looking too odd spinning and hopping around by myself - 
I think the kids are going to have to learn some of my songs this summer ;), I've attended my last cake decorating class (yes, getting in a little more domesticity before I head out into the wilds :), fit in a couple dental appointments, a girls-day-out replete with pedicures, one last trip to OR (thanks again to Dan and Nikki for picking me up!), one more 13.25 mile run and wrapped up several little projects that I've been working on. Phew! It's been busy, but productive and I'm SO ready for this next adventure!
Quite often, I get asked about the travel items that I can't leave home without. I've lived out of a backpack or suitcase more in the past 6 years than I have out of a closet (which is why I still get such pleasure from hanging my clothes up :). With that, I have definitely refined my packing skills and have a list of must-haves. My recommendations for others usually depend on the type of trip, whether long (more than 4weeks) or short, domestic or abroad and how much you will be moving/traveling from a base. Here is a general breakdown from my experience.
Assuming you are planning a backpacking trip abroad, the first things I would do are:
I think the kids are going to have to learn some of my songs this summer ;), I've attended my last cake decorating class (yes, getting in a little more domesticity before I head out into the wilds :), fit in a couple dental appointments, a girls-day-out replete with pedicures, one last trip to OR (thanks again to Dan and Nikki for picking me up!), one more 13.25 mile run and wrapped up several little projects that I've been working on. Phew! It's been busy, but productive and I'm SO ready for this next adventure!Quite often, I get asked about the travel items that I can't leave home without. I've lived out of a backpack or suitcase more in the past 6 years than I have out of a closet (which is why I still get such pleasure from hanging my clothes up :). With that, I have definitely refined my packing skills and have a list of must-haves. My recommendations for others usually depend on the type of trip, whether long (more than 4weeks) or short, domestic or abroad and how much you will be moving/traveling from a base. Here is a general breakdown from my experience.
Assuming you are planning a backpacking trip abroad, the first things I would do are:
- Call your bank and let them know where you will be traveling and for how long so that they aren't surprised and incoveniently put a hold on your credit and/or debit cards.
- Bring crisp US Dollars that are in the best of condition. I found places, especially in S. America were extremely picky about accepting used bills and one even brought out a magnifying glass to show me that there was indeed a microscopic rip!
- Check in advance how much entry visas will be, if there is a difference by land or by air and if there is an airport exit fee.
- I usually like to bring at least a little local currency with me. It usually takes about a week to order the bills from your bank. This will help you avoid the higher exchange rates at airports, you don't have to search for an ATM right away and allows you to hop right in a cab or buy a snack when you arrive.
- Print copies of your passport, drivers license and any vaccination records that may be required to enter the country. Also have a couple extra passport sized photos handy for entry visas.
Certain things are must-haves for any trip:
- Music - My ipod with playlists and podcasts is something I would really hate to be without
- Journal - I have kept one since I began college and it has proved indispensible in not only recording my day to day thoughts, details of my adventures but also extremely cathartic when I need to work through something - especially when traveling alone. I also keep a tiny notebook with me (one that will fit in a pocket or camera case etc so that it is always with me), a new one for each trip, where I jot down everything that I learn during the day. New words when I am learning a new language or quote that I want to remember, important phone numbers and addresses, doodles, random ideas etc and they become a supplement to my official journal.
- Water bottle - I've mentioned this before, but I have been a Nalgene fan for many many years, have always had one by my side and this year, I'm making the switch to a platypus foldable bottle. Either way, it has to be something BPA free and ultra-durable.
- Camera - My Nikon D5000 is fantastic and I am looking forward to capturing some amazing wildlife in Africa!
- External Harddrive - I only use one memory card (although a have another one or two for backup) and routinely transfer the pics from my card to the drive.
- Reading Material - Essential for long bus rides and flights.
- Ziploc Bags - ALWAYS have some with you. I can't say how many times that I've needed a plastic bag to protect something, hold broken pieces, contain something wet, pick up something dirty or even when you're sick... enough said ;)
Some of my favorite things for long-term travel:
- A good headlamp and pocket light - One of my favorite toys is my Petzl Zipka Plus Headlamp which has a retractable cord in lieu of the headband so it can be worn around your wrist or water bottle or tent flap etc. I also have a tiny led light (about 3 inches long, 1 inch wide and a quarter inch thick), that I always keep with me. It comes in handy at night searching for something you dropped or when the power goes out unexpectedly - more often you would think!
- A first aid kit - Stock with all the basics as well as traveler's diarrhea meds. I have been pretty lucky so far (knock on wood) in not having to use these myself but have given some to friends that had severe attacks and I could swear their internal organs had been liquified!
- Flip flops - A durable pair that is easy to clean and has good tread so you aren't slipping on wet roads. I highly recommend Havaianas - they offer many different styles, but they also last forever and I've definitely put them to the test!
- A quick dry towel - Absolutely necessary when you want to shower before a long journey, but the last thing you want to do is pack away something wet! Trust me!
- Febreze - Speaking of smelly backpacks, a little travel size bottle of febreze works wonders for not only road-weary clothing, but also musty rooms, ancient beds, trusty hikers/runners and more! I also bring along a Tide-to-go stain remover pen because I am not often in a place where I can wash things right away.
- Stickers - Personally, I am adamantly against giving children money when I travel. Unless they are actually providing a desired service (not offering to shine my flipflops), I do not like the induction of children into the world of begging and have seen too many beautiful, intelligent children used by greedy, selfish adults. That being said, I adore making friends with random children and listening to their stories. If I take their photo, then I try to find a one-hour print shop to make them a copy, which for them is often more valuable than any spare change you may have and if not, then I always carry stickers with me to share with those kids that I have connected with. Plus they are small and easy to carry!
- Passport cover - To protect it from damage, but also to keep my country of origin from being instantly recognized.
- Fake/old debit cards - This one is not one that I use, but think it is a great idea nevertheless. I have read that in case you are being mugged (again, knock on wood, I have not been), you can carry expired cards in your wallet and handing them over apeases the thief.
- A water purifier - Traveling around India I was forced to purchase far too many bottles of water and felt terrible about the ammount of plastic I was adding to their already fragile environment. Along came a recommendation from a friend for the Steripen, a device that uses UV light to purify drinking water and I love it! It takes 1-2 minutes and leaves no aftertaste like tablets or iodine - genius.
- A shawl/sarong - I have come to carry one with me since India because they just come in so handy! You can use it for a wrap or scarf when you are cold, a towel if you've lost your quick-dry, a clean surface cover, a pouch to carry things in, bunch it up and use it for a pillow, even as an emergency sling... so many uses!
- Netbook - Now, this is a new addition to my travel arsenal. They began popping up everywhere on the S. American circuit and where wifi was fairly common in hostels and cafes and often free, I would be stuck to a pc paying per hour. It has also been a great way to transfer photos from my camera to my hard drive. I highly recommend the Toshiba NB205 that has an incredible battery life and a comfortable keyboard. With these electronic gadgets however, you have to remember to bring adaptors for each region that you will be traveling to (or better yet, a universal adaptor set). I also have an extra power source for my ipod that runs off of rechargable batteries and have been considering investing in a Solio, a solar powered charging device.
- A ball - An odd addition, I've just found it's nice to have when I'm bored, waiting for transport or run into a group of kids, so I bring a little bouncy handball along.
- Postcards of your hometown - They make good thank you cards and kids in small villages are facinated by the big buildings. I also bring a couple pictures of my family and friends for myself as well as sharing stories.
- Catchphrase - This has been one of my favorite games for nearly a decade and the newer electronic version is small and easy to carry. Again, this is not at all a necessity, but when I am working with teens, or have a group of fellow travelers gathered, this game has never failed to induce fits of laughter (as long as they speak english)!
- A Treat - Last, but most definitely not least, I have found that I like to bring a couple favorite snack from home for those days when I have just had one too many potatoes or plates of rice. One of my favorite parts of travel is trying out the various world cuisines. However, when I am working and limited to what is being provided, but also when I have been on the road for weeks/months and just yearn for a taste of home, I pull out my rainy-day stash and savor the flavor of a little peanutbutter or M&Ms or jerky or trailmix etc. This really should go under the must-haves for any trip :)
Friday, March 26, 2010
Green
A little late for St. Patrick's Day and not at all reminiscent of corned beef and cabbage, nevertheless, I thought I'd start off showcasing some of my recent favorite finds with a couple green goodies. I've been collecting cutting edge products that have sparked my imagination and that make me excited about the future and I'm looking forward to sharing them with you over the next few posts!
First, I am thrilled to present my most recent purchase, a water bottle that can roll up and fit in your pocket! Now, I am a die-hard Nalgene fan and have carried one with me wherever I go since college, so this is big :). There are two earth-conscious companies that deserve mention here, although I ultimately went with the former because they offer a 1L size. 
Platypus actually has an entire line of products that are made of an incredibly durable triple-layer laminate and polyethylene lining (BPA free) that won't retain flavors or taste like plastic. They even have a wine preservation pouch! When not in use, it takes up very little space, which is key when all I've got is my backpack! Alternatively, Vapur has a colorful assortment and a great message. Did you know that it takes 17 million barrels of oil each year to make bottles for water just for the U.S. market?? Imagine the world over! Check out their website for more information: http://vapur.us/world-water-crisis.php - Invest in a water bottle my friends and take advantage of the beautifully clean tap water that we are privileged to have in this country :).
Another cool product on my wish list is this set of foldable, self-powered, eco-friendly speakers. Again, saving space is key and they require no batteries to boot! You can slip them right inside your laptop bag and easily carry them to any function. Made from recycled material, they have several designs to choose from, a blank set to let your creativity run wild or you can even send them your own custom design! Check out their new Rock-it device that turns anything (cereal box, paper cup, plastic bowl, even your refrigerator!) into a speaker: http://www.origaudio.com/ - awesome!
I'll leave you with this insightful film short about the fictional life of a plastic bag. It's 18 min long and it's a bit slow, so I don't blame you if you break it into parts, but the bag's last words really made the video for me. I never thought I would feel such emotion for, well, a plastic bag! :)
First, I am thrilled to present my most recent purchase, a water bottle that can roll up and fit in your pocket! Now, I am a die-hard Nalgene fan and have carried one with me wherever I go since college, so this is big :). There are two earth-conscious companies that deserve mention here, although I ultimately went with the former because they offer a 1L size. 
Platypus actually has an entire line of products that are made of an incredibly durable triple-layer laminate and polyethylene lining (BPA free) that won't retain flavors or taste like plastic. They even have a wine preservation pouch! When not in use, it takes up very little space, which is key when all I've got is my backpack! Alternatively, Vapur has a colorful assortment and a great message. Did you know that it takes 17 million barrels of oil each year to make bottles for water just for the U.S. market?? Imagine the world over! Check out their website for more information: http://vapur.us/world-water-crisis.php - Invest in a water bottle my friends and take advantage of the beautifully clean tap water that we are privileged to have in this country :).
Another cool product on my wish list is this set of foldable, self-powered, eco-friendly speakers. Again, saving space is key and they require no batteries to boot! You can slip them right inside your laptop bag and easily carry them to any function. Made from recycled material, they have several designs to choose from, a blank set to let your creativity run wild or you can even send them your own custom design! Check out their new Rock-it device that turns anything (cereal box, paper cup, plastic bowl, even your refrigerator!) into a speaker: http://www.origaudio.com/ - awesome!I'll leave you with this insightful film short about the fictional life of a plastic bag. It's 18 min long and it's a bit slow, so I don't blame you if you break it into parts, but the bag's last words really made the video for me. I never thought I would feel such emotion for, well, a plastic bag! :)
Thursday, March 11, 2010
I'm back!
I'm back! It always seems that when I have the most free time, I have the least motivation to publish. The truth is, I've started a draft several times online and even more times in my head. Does anyone else find themselves thinking their blog throughout the day? When I'm jogging, everything from the bright spring colors and fellow joggers to the various scents that I consume along the way spur first paragraphs. Meals that I cook, friends that I hear from, magazines and the plethora of videos and news articles that I catch online spark themes and even the evening conversations with my parents can be poetic.
And yet... here I am, more than 2 months later! In the mean time, January brought the battery charging visit by my dearest Alisa. One week of relaxation, exploration and wandering. Seven days of cheek splitting smiles, tummy clenching laughter and one photo-shoot after another (I swear we must have set a record!) That is not to mention our riotous and racy romp north of the border! With a 'blue' theme (yes, we have themes :) we spent the first day stopping in nearly every shop along the road to the coast. Thanks to Alisa's skillful internet research we had a fantastic room with a balcony overlooking the sea and the city, just blocks from the water in a chic area of Vancouver. Our first thought after getting our bearings, was that we hadn't given ourselves nearly enough time to try all of the sumptuous offerings! One by one, we were bombarded by the aromas from the cookie shop, the shawarma shop, the chocolate cafe, the pizzaria, and the cupcake store! How to decide?? (hint: we didn't ;)
Next up, a stroll along the waterfront including a hilarious set of statues
(photos taken), skeletal tree silhouettes (photos taken), the famous symbol of Vancouver and subsequently the 2010 Winter Olympics, Inukshuk (photos taken) and even a giant set of engagement rings in the park (photos AND a video of Alisa's version of "Single Ladies" taken :).
All that and we were left with no choice but to stop in a couple of our favorite shops on the way back to the hotel... to stimulate the poor Canadian economy of course... and perhaps a little sugar for our dancin' feet!
Playing dress-up is something that Alisa and I never left behind in our childhoods (one could make the argument that we've just extended our childhood - another reason we get along so well ;). In fact, dressing up has become a veritable requirement of any reunion.
Thus, Vancouverites witnessed these two American girls dressed head to toe in blue (and a little black and silver thrown in the mix), hit the town. We tracked down a super-secret, ultra-posh restaurant down town, along the way meeting a magician that mysteriously made ash appear on my very own closed hand! How could we not fall in love with this place!
Our last day was spent exploring more of Vancouver, especially the Olympic Venues. Vancouver is such a lovely city! Everybody that we met was, as cliché as it sounds, so polite and helpful.
They were smartly dressed and friendly and truly seemed happy. If it wasn't as rainy as Washington, I could see myself spending some serious time there! Alas, all good things must come to an end and Alisa must return to her family. Skype video chats just weren't enough for her adorable little boy :). I always miss her, but feel so proud of us for making these reunions happen every year. Love ya Lis!
The day she left was the day I had told myself that I needed to start finding my new path - a fairly ambiguous goal. I'll save the trials and tribulations of this quest for later entries, but it has definitely been a challenge to nail anything down. Do I continue traveling? There are still so many places that I have yet to see and languages to learn and people to meet and foods to taste... Do I focus on finding a permanent job abroad? Do I commit to a job in the States for a time? Finally, get a place of my own that I can decorate and feel, as foreign a concept as it is, at home? And then there is the matter of defining my true north. What are my most poignant passions? When am I the most satisfied and what are my talents? ...so many questions.
So! As I continue my journey, I've picked up a new side job. I have plenty of time these days to work on getting back in physical shape so I have been running consistently (met my goal of a half-marathon in Feb :), using Wii Fit for yoga and strength training and I've found a dance class that I absolutely love! About a month into attending classes, the instructor, whom I admire a great deal - this girl can move! - asked if I had ever considered teaching. Absolutely made my day! I took some time to mull it over and next thing you know, I was choreographing 14 songs including hiphop, salsa, reggaeton, bachata, bollywood and I've even thrown in a Greek song for the fun of it. I had my first class on the first of March and I am simply loving it! I get a wonderful workout AND I get to share my music and moves with a group of lovely ladies!
I'll try to stay more current from now on. I've got a blog coming up with some awesome products that I've come across and also... drumroll please... a possible international trip coming up!! Stay tuned ;)
And yet... here I am, more than 2 months later! In the mean time, January brought the battery charging visit by my dearest Alisa. One week of relaxation, exploration and wandering. Seven days of cheek splitting smiles, tummy clenching laughter and one photo-shoot after another (I swear we must have set a record!) That is not to mention our riotous and racy romp north of the border! With a 'blue' theme (yes, we have themes :) we spent the first day stopping in nearly every shop along the road to the coast. Thanks to Alisa's skillful internet research we had a fantastic room with a balcony overlooking the sea and the city, just blocks from the water in a chic area of Vancouver. Our first thought after getting our bearings, was that we hadn't given ourselves nearly enough time to try all of the sumptuous offerings! One by one, we were bombarded by the aromas from the cookie shop, the shawarma shop, the chocolate cafe, the pizzaria, and the cupcake store! How to decide?? (hint: we didn't ;)
Next up, a stroll along the waterfront including a hilarious set of statues
(photos taken), skeletal tree silhouettes (photos taken), the famous symbol of Vancouver and subsequently the 2010 Winter Olympics, Inukshuk (photos taken) and even a giant set of engagement rings in the park (photos AND a video of Alisa's version of "Single Ladies" taken :).
All that and we were left with no choice but to stop in a couple of our favorite shops on the way back to the hotel... to stimulate the poor Canadian economy of course... and perhaps a little sugar for our dancin' feet!Playing dress-up is something that Alisa and I never left behind in our childhoods (one could make the argument that we've just extended our childhood - another reason we get along so well ;). In fact, dressing up has become a veritable requirement of any reunion.
Thus, Vancouverites witnessed these two American girls dressed head to toe in blue (and a little black and silver thrown in the mix), hit the town. We tracked down a super-secret, ultra-posh restaurant down town, along the way meeting a magician that mysteriously made ash appear on my very own closed hand! How could we not fall in love with this place!Our last day was spent exploring more of Vancouver, especially the Olympic Venues. Vancouver is such a lovely city! Everybody that we met was, as cliché as it sounds, so polite and helpful.
They were smartly dressed and friendly and truly seemed happy. If it wasn't as rainy as Washington, I could see myself spending some serious time there! Alas, all good things must come to an end and Alisa must return to her family. Skype video chats just weren't enough for her adorable little boy :). I always miss her, but feel so proud of us for making these reunions happen every year. Love ya Lis!The day she left was the day I had told myself that I needed to start finding my new path - a fairly ambiguous goal. I'll save the trials and tribulations of this quest for later entries, but it has definitely been a challenge to nail anything down. Do I continue traveling? There are still so many places that I have yet to see and languages to learn and people to meet and foods to taste... Do I focus on finding a permanent job abroad? Do I commit to a job in the States for a time? Finally, get a place of my own that I can decorate and feel, as foreign a concept as it is, at home? And then there is the matter of defining my true north. What are my most poignant passions? When am I the most satisfied and what are my talents? ...so many questions.
So! As I continue my journey, I've picked up a new side job. I have plenty of time these days to work on getting back in physical shape so I have been running consistently (met my goal of a half-marathon in Feb :), using Wii Fit for yoga and strength training and I've found a dance class that I absolutely love! About a month into attending classes, the instructor, whom I admire a great deal - this girl can move! - asked if I had ever considered teaching. Absolutely made my day! I took some time to mull it over and next thing you know, I was choreographing 14 songs including hiphop, salsa, reggaeton, bachata, bollywood and I've even thrown in a Greek song for the fun of it. I had my first class on the first of March and I am simply loving it! I get a wonderful workout AND I get to share my music and moves with a group of lovely ladies!
I'll try to stay more current from now on. I've got a blog coming up with some awesome products that I've come across and also... drumroll please... a possible international trip coming up!! Stay tuned ;)
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Illegal Immigrant
Phew! Although it is true, it feels good to be back in Peru, it has not been the smoothest of trips!
I left Vilcabamba, dragging my toes after a splendid stay. Three wonderful days were spent hiking and biking the surrounding hills with my new friend Paul and I cannot speak highly enough of the hostal!
The self proclaimed "backpackers resort" was exactly that. Although, they hesitate to use the term resort because of certain expectations that come with that label, for all intents and purposes, it was the nicest place that I have stayed since the actual resort with my parents in Bali. A nice 2k walk from town, (even if it is 11pm and you are walking with your now 50lb pack because there are no taxis at this time of night), the place is gorgeous! A lovely view of little Vilcabamba from the dining area, a menu featuring German specialties that is reason enough to visit, a giant outdoor chess set, bar with billiards, darts and pingpong, a lagoon style pool, lofted dorm rooms with cobbled hot showers and a free gormet breakfast buffet... All of this for an unbelievable $10?? I immediately booked myself another night! (For more info: Izhcayluma.com)
Mornings started with a dip in the pool, followed by a fresh and filling breakfast taking in the view. Afternoons were spent enjoying the scenery (maybe getting lost just once high above town during a 5 hour ridge trek?) and the evenings were spent relaxing, enjoying the gulasch and spaetzle and pineapple curry and exotic fruit juices, the bar and of course Halloween night with a random mix of travelers! I was so glad to have the company of Paul while our schedules permitted, but as is always the case, our time came to an end and he had to leave west, while I spent one more day in Vilcabamba and left south into Peru the next night.
The trip was actually a lot smoother than it should have been. I took a bus to Loja and then boarded another an hour later for Piura in Peru. The next thing I know, around 7am, I find myself in Piura. Does anyone else notice what I missed? I cant rightly be in Peru without having stopped at the border to get a visa stamped in my passport, but that is exactly the situation I was in. I was suddenly illegally in the country and the border was 2 1/2 hours away! I was quite surprised that they has never told me to get out at the border crossing, that I had slept right through it and that the security for either side had not checked the bus. I argued with the bus company saying it was their responsibility to carry everyone into the country legally and that if it is an overnight bus that they should make sure people are awake. Eventually they granted me passage back to the border for free, but the next bus didnt leave for 2 hours. (I tried to go to the consulate in the mean time, but just my luck its some kind of holiday and it was closed). So, after arriving on an overnight bus around 7am, I had to retreat all the way back, get my stamps, hassle the next bus driver to let me on without paying and finally return to Piura around 4:30pm! An unfortunte waste of a day, but such is life on the road. Now at least, Ive had time to upload a blog entry and try some north Peruvian street food :)
I am of course sadly behind in my Ecuadorian updates. I had a remarkable time in the seemingly small country, jam-packed with noteable places to see and things to do. I promise to catch up soon. For now, my last week will be spent winding my way down to Lima for my flight next Tuesday night!!!
I left Vilcabamba, dragging my toes after a splendid stay. Three wonderful days were spent hiking and biking the surrounding hills with my new friend Paul and I cannot speak highly enough of the hostal!
The self proclaimed "backpackers resort" was exactly that. Although, they hesitate to use the term resort because of certain expectations that come with that label, for all intents and purposes, it was the nicest place that I have stayed since the actual resort with my parents in Bali. A nice 2k walk from town, (even if it is 11pm and you are walking with your now 50lb pack because there are no taxis at this time of night), the place is gorgeous! A lovely view of little Vilcabamba from the dining area, a menu featuring German specialties that is reason enough to visit, a giant outdoor chess set, bar with billiards, darts and pingpong, a lagoon style pool, lofted dorm rooms with cobbled hot showers and a free gormet breakfast buffet... All of this for an unbelievable $10?? I immediately booked myself another night! (For more info: Izhcayluma.com)
Mornings started with a dip in the pool, followed by a fresh and filling breakfast taking in the view. Afternoons were spent enjoying the scenery (maybe getting lost just once high above town during a 5 hour ridge trek?) and the evenings were spent relaxing, enjoying the gulasch and spaetzle and pineapple curry and exotic fruit juices, the bar and of course Halloween night with a random mix of travelers! I was so glad to have the company of Paul while our schedules permitted, but as is always the case, our time came to an end and he had to leave west, while I spent one more day in Vilcabamba and left south into Peru the next night.
The trip was actually a lot smoother than it should have been. I took a bus to Loja and then boarded another an hour later for Piura in Peru. The next thing I know, around 7am, I find myself in Piura. Does anyone else notice what I missed? I cant rightly be in Peru without having stopped at the border to get a visa stamped in my passport, but that is exactly the situation I was in. I was suddenly illegally in the country and the border was 2 1/2 hours away! I was quite surprised that they has never told me to get out at the border crossing, that I had slept right through it and that the security for either side had not checked the bus. I argued with the bus company saying it was their responsibility to carry everyone into the country legally and that if it is an overnight bus that they should make sure people are awake. Eventually they granted me passage back to the border for free, but the next bus didnt leave for 2 hours. (I tried to go to the consulate in the mean time, but just my luck its some kind of holiday and it was closed). So, after arriving on an overnight bus around 7am, I had to retreat all the way back, get my stamps, hassle the next bus driver to let me on without paying and finally return to Piura around 4:30pm! An unfortunte waste of a day, but such is life on the road. Now at least, Ive had time to upload a blog entry and try some north Peruvian street food :)
I am of course sadly behind in my Ecuadorian updates. I had a remarkable time in the seemingly small country, jam-packed with noteable places to see and things to do. I promise to catch up soon. For now, my last week will be spent winding my way down to Lima for my flight next Tuesday night!!!
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Colombia - The Highlights
Once again, I hate to summarize the last few weeks of travel, especially an entire country, but I'm afraid it's either that, or spend tens of thousands of pesos on the internet while I try to document every detail. Bare with me, I will try to stay more current!
Before leaving Peru, I spent my last day back in my village of Socma. It is not the easiest journey to make. You have to know whether there is a big truck, carrying people and supplies going up and which town it is leaving from. I left Cusco around 6am in order to get to Pachar, a small town just before Ollantaytambo, by 8am. From there, I walked for about 20 min to a point at which I'd been told that there may be a truck passing by and into the valley. I was in luck. I climbed in the back to find several ladies from Socma and a nearby village also heading up. It was so nice to be recognized and we shared bread and chatted all the way up.
Once we arrived in Socma, I climbed down and was instantly surrounded by the people that had been working in the main field. I had been looking forward to surprising them and it was such a warm feeling to be amongst the people Id become so close to again! I toured the coops of some of the houses, visited with those that were still home and when I returned to the school grounds, the kids saw me and came running over. I've said this before, but there simply is nothing like the love of a child and to have 3o of them rush towards you, calling your name and scrambling to hug you... ahhh, words cannot suffice. They even broke into song and dance and I caught it on video! Eventually, I had to pull myself away. After being invited for soup at one home, I was told I must join the ladies down by the river for their artisans training. I sat in the circle of ladies, watching them learn to sew dolls and weave the most intricate designs. I shared in their snack of corn and rice and even helped sew a little. My heart swelled - those are the moments (days) that stay with you and that you can never get as a tourist!
I said my final goodbyes to Cusco (for now at least) and boarded 3 planes to Barranquilla, Colombia. I did not have much of a plan, so I just chose an airport in the north. Turns out, my instinct did not choose well this time and Barranquilla is just a big city. Luckily, I stayed with a sweet couchsurfing couple, one American and one Colombian and they got me started. I had a fantastic night of dancing before I left for Cartagena.
Before leaving Peru, I spent my last day back in my village of Socma. It is not the easiest journey to make. You have to know whether there is a big truck, carrying people and supplies going up and which town it is leaving from. I left Cusco around 6am in order to get to Pachar, a small town just before Ollantaytambo, by 8am. From there, I walked for about 20 min to a point at which I'd been told that there may be a truck passing by and into the valley. I was in luck. I climbed in the back to find several ladies from Socma and a nearby village also heading up. It was so nice to be recognized and we shared bread and chatted all the way up.
Once we arrived in Socma, I climbed down and was instantly surrounded by the people that had been working in the main field. I had been looking forward to surprising them and it was such a warm feeling to be amongst the people Id become so close to again! I toured the coops of some of the houses, visited with those that were still home and when I returned to the school grounds, the kids saw me and came running over. I've said this before, but there simply is nothing like the love of a child and to have 3o of them rush towards you, calling your name and scrambling to hug you... ahhh, words cannot suffice. They even broke into song and dance and I caught it on video! Eventually, I had to pull myself away. After being invited for soup at one home, I was told I must join the ladies down by the river for their artisans training. I sat in the circle of ladies, watching them learn to sew dolls and weave the most intricate designs. I shared in their snack of corn and rice and even helped sew a little. My heart swelled - those are the moments (days) that stay with you and that you can never get as a tourist!
I said my final goodbyes to Cusco (for now at least) and boarded 3 planes to Barranquilla, Colombia. I did not have much of a plan, so I just chose an airport in the north. Turns out, my instinct did not choose well this time and Barranquilla is just a big city. Luckily, I stayed with a sweet couchsurfing couple, one American and one Colombian and they got me started. I had a fantastic night of dancing before I left for Cartagena.
Cartagena
- A famously romantic city, with 3 distinct areas: The charming old city, surrounded by castle-like walls and towers, rainbow colored buildings, women in Columbian flag ruffled dresses selling fruit from baskets on their heads, horse drawn carriages, jungle-like plazas and latin music reverberating from one venue or another. Boca Grande, a lizard tail peninsula of expensive high-rises and packed beaches and what I consider the real city, a fairly dirty, congested and poor area with a lack of green and too many vehicles.
- Incredible heat and humidity!
- Delicious variety of street foods, especially the cups of fruit.
- Interesting night life, with dancers performing in the streets, salsa, rock and reggaeton. The juice shops begin selling smoothies with a dash of rum - yum!
- A friend of mine and I, went to Columbia's largest mud volcano (I don't know how many actually exist) by bus and motorbike. Through lush green scenery, as I imagine the african savanah to look, we zipped until we came to the base. Up the ladder we climbed and it was one of the coolest experiences that I've had in Columbia. You submerge yourself, but only just below the surface. You can't reach the bottom, but you can't go further down. It was almost like anti-gravity! Men in the crater push you to a spot and then give you a massage (for a tip of course) and then afterwards you descend to a lake nearby where a lady grabs you and begins to bathe you. She reached in my top and cleaned out my ears... Ha, I knew they would also ask for a tip, but how often do you get bathed these days! I wish I could do it again!
Medellin
- Again, as a tourist/backpacker you don't really get to see the real city. Most of the hostels are in a ritzy, very safe and cool area, quite removed from down town.
- THE place to hang out is "the park". Surrounded by cafés, restaurants and clubs, you will most likely meet everyone there at some point. Most nights started here with a bottle or two and eventually the group, that had slowly grown over time, would decide on one club or another to dance the early AM hours away.
- My hostel had everything. A restaurant, bar, internet, comfy TV lounge with cable and a huge DVD library and even a pool. When the weather was rainy, I found myself more than once cuddled up amongst the pillows and 10 other backpackers watching movies - quite nice for a change.
- I spent one day seeing the rest of Medellin. I joined a worker from the hostel on his bike around down town, not much to see really besides a couple nice buildings, statues, a nice big market with whole animal carcasses on display and more prostitutes than I've seen anywhere else. We continued about an hour out of town to Santa Elena, a tiny town set in lush greens and flowers. I spent the day relaxing in the fresh air, hiking around the paths and generally enjoying the slow pace of the countryside.
- I was lucky enough to be in town to see Colombia play Chile in their quest to qualify for the World Cup! Ahh, there is nothing like football in South America and even though they lost, I relished in the competitive, happy, frenetic atmosphere of a crowded stadium.
- I had been warned against Bogota on grounds of violence and theft. I decided I wanted to see for myself and was rewarded with a holiday in town and therefore an extended cyclovia where several of the main roads are closed and thousands of people ride bikes, rollerblade, jog and walk their dogs through town. I was delighted to find families, kids and friends of all ages outside, enjoying their city, watching an interesting mix of street performers (a great guineapig show and a talented set of rappers to start) and getting some exercize!
- El Monserrate is an imposing mountain looking over Bogota with a pretty church atop. I was only able to admire it from below unfortunately because the rainy weather would not have permitted a view.
- Once again, the bakeries and street food stalls were like magnets. I cannot resist trying something new and there seems to be no end! Delicious.
- Being a bit museum-jaded, the Gold Museum is definitely worth a visit.
- San, a new traveling buddy and I decided to check out the famous Salt Cathedral. I was not expecting much, since I'd been to the salt capital of the world in Bolivia, but this was apparently the number one marvel in Columbia. I was so very impressed! The town that it is situated in, Zipaquirá, was a lovely little town, clean, wide streets and friendly plazas. The salt cathedral itself was actually carved inside the mountain and incredibly unique. Symbolic chambers, cool lighting, a beautiful mirror pond, a great guide and a cheesy but funny 3D movie! I just wish I had had time for Colombia's highest rock climbing wall!
- I couchsurfed once again with a guy named Oliver and he was a wonderful host! These interactions truly enrich my experience and I want to send a big thank you out to him!
I left cold and rainy Bogota with a list of things to see when I return. What was supposed to be an 11hr journey turned into 15 for some reason and I am now in the salsa capital of Colombia, Cali. Last night, I joined a friend at his dance studio for a class and it was fantastic! They even mixed it was a little hiphop and reggaeton - so fun! Afterwards, we went to one of the hottest salsotecas in town and I was in such awe of pure talent there! I can only hope that one day I will be able to dance like them!
Friday, September 25, 2009
Highest of Heights
Unless I'm in a plane, I'm fairly positive that the 6,088m (19,974ft) peak of Huyana Potosi is my highest of heights - forever. As competitive as I am, as much as most challenges inspire me to do them again, faster, longer, higher etc, this was no normal challenge for me and at this point, I believe I can cross it off my list. Climbing this mountain was the most dangerous, most difficult and most challenging experience of my life and whereas I am incredibly proud and excited to have successfully sumitted, I do not feel the usual desire to do it again. -Once in a life time-The sirens call of adventure, the inexpensive pricetag and the persuasion of Migi, my Swiss friend who had been set on climbing this mountain for some time, combined to push me into the spontaneous decision, literally 15 min before closing time the night before. Am I crazy? I had no warm clothes and detest the cold, no experience except for a little ice climbing in college and in general feel somewhat out of shape, so what was I thinking?? This was no liesurly stroll!
We began early, getting fitted for gear. The agency provided everything from sleepingbag, ice pick, crampons and boots to gloves, pants and jackets. Next, our group of 4 Argentinians, a Swiss, a Dane and myself drove up to the base refuge set next to a pale teal pond, stopping on the way to admire the most unbelievable lake that I have ever seen. All colors of the rainbow as if from the imagination of a child with a box of crayons, not yet limited by reality.
After a hearty lunch, we tromped up to the nearest glacier, about an hour away to practice climbing techniques and get used to the equipment. The sun glistened off the ice crags as we cheered eachother on, I could barely contain my excitement - skipping is not so easy in crampons! :) On the walk back, the mists rolled in and once again I found myself in utter awe of my surroundings. Our reflections trekked across pastel mirror lakes and the setting sun warmed the mountains across the valley. That night, we were joined by 2 frenchmen and after dinner relaxed by the fire, played cards and enjoyed a good nights rest.
Day 2 was a day of aclimization so we didn't leave until after lunch. This time, with packs and full gear, we made the steep 3-4 hour hike above the snow line. This time, I could feel it. Once the clouds settled, the view dropped to just a few meters ahead and the slope 
must have been at least 60 degrees - phew! The second refuge turned out to be no more than a tiny tin hut with a small alcove to cook on a portable stove and 10 matress pads, 5 side to side below and 5 sqeezed together on a shelf above - for the 12 of us. 
No matter, I figured the sleepover setting would at least keep me warm. I stayed outside admiring the sheer beauty all around me after everyone else had gone in. The clouds lifted like the lid of a treasure chest and there, high above the valley, far away from most humans, plants and animals, everything seemed so alive! I could hear the ice and snow chattering away like rice crispies in milk, the breezes scurried from one valley to the next until brushing past me, both daring me to resist their chill and catch their message. Even the rocks seemed to whisper a story and I, in that place, felt so alive!
I stayed out until the late hour of 6:30pm and finally joined the others cuddled up in their sleepingbags. Unfortunately, I've never been one for much sleep and forcing myself to turn off at such and hour was impossible. The next 6 hours were miserable! It was too hot, believe it or not, getting bumped from both sides, severely dehydrated and the worst was being right under the skylight, condensation would collect and drop down on me, at least 8 times directly in the eye! Let me tell you, I was not feeling so alive when the 1am "wakeup" call came!
Like zombies, we slowly layered up, while battling the various demons of stomache, head and muscle aches, lack of sleep and our senses of reason and logic throwing up a white flag. Two climbers roped to a guide, we began the laborious climb 3 by 3. The slope varied between 40 and 75degrees, I followed Migi's boots in the 3ft wide glow of my headlamp and talked myself towards the peak's sillohette, slightly blacker than the black night sky. About an hour in, despite his magical coca bonbons and his will to continue, the altitude got the better of dear Migi and he was forced to concede along with one of the Argentinians. We shuffled guides and I found myself between Jose and Stefan - my new team.
Up, up, up we went, trudging through ice and snow. More often than I care to admit I had to stop to catch my breath and luckily I wasn't the only one. To keep myself focussed I even resorted to counting my steps, taking refuge in the fact that each one was that much closer and reminding myself that we'd be back by lunch time. Mmmm the motivation of soup! Several times, the guide would push us through a particular area due to the risk of splintering ice or rocks coming loose - we could actually hear the glacier cracking - another fantastic motivation!
As dawn approached, we leaped 4ft wide, deeper than I care to imagine, crevasses, tottered over 1ft wide ice bridges, picked our way up walls of massive icicles and it took every shred of will power to keep moving forward. 
A neon pink and orange band broke across the horizon and shed just enough light to allow us to appreciate the scenery we had been missing - so many mountains all around us and ours looming above. Almost there. One more heart-pounding, icicle-shattering climb and a short hike to the peak that barely fit the three of us and there I was! Standing at my highest of heights. I'd like to think it was the air pressure that squeezed a tear or two to the surface!
The details of the descent are mostly a blur, but I clearly remember the various ice formations, frozen turquoise cascades, spikey snow fields, black hole cravasses and smooth white slopes. 
I remember being simultaneously thrilled and exhausted and proud... and anxiously awaiting the bottom! 
We were back in La Paz around 4 and I was surprised that my personal batteries had any juice left in them. I was actually able to go out to a decent hour that night with friends before a lovely night's sleep.
The very next day I mountain biked down the world's most dangerous road - the "Death Road". Rain and fog and sunshine all made an appearance during the 75k mostly downhill ride through the jungle along a muddy, rocky one way road with a straight drop off of several hundred meters.
Next came a trip to Copa... Copacabana where music and passion are always the fashion :). It was a small tourist town with the historically signifigant island of the sun off it's lake Titicaca coast and fabulous trout. Then it was back to Peru! Ahh, what an adventure Bolivia was and although I am looking forward to relaxing a few days in Cusco, I hope to make it back there one day!
For more images from the mountain: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2020566&id=60100993&l=9cb985c1c8
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