Tusú rukù suey'chis!

"Buenos dias Señorita" accompanies a light rapping on my tent flap. I unzip my door to greet two smiling faces, one with a kettle of hot water and the other with a selection of tea bags, coca leaves, hot chocolate and sometimes even coffee. This is our wake-up call in the village of Socma, around 7am allowing us to ease into the day with a warm cuppa (that is if we've managed to sleep through villagers passing by and any number of donkeys, horses, sheep, roosters, dogs and cows trumpeting the morning news). It's a wonderful way to start a day.

Due to said natural alarm clocks, I'm usually awake and I'll take my tea out into the sunshine (once I manage to extract myself from my ultra cozy sleepingbag) and greet the kids as they one by one shuffle to the bathroom and into breakfast. We've hired a couple locals to cook our meals, Socma has many men that work as porters and cooks on the various incan trails during the tourist season as there is not much opportunity for employment this far off the beaten path - and the food is excellent.

Food is in fact a major part of the day here. After morning tea and breakfast, the kids are provided a snack, something like fruit and cookies, to take with them while they work. We've paired two kids with one family and the families usually share a 'snack' as well which can consist of anything from dried corn, beans, eggs on up to a plate loaded with meat, potatoes and pasta. Around noon, the kids return for a hearty lunch starting with soup, then around 5:30pm is afternoon tea with crackers/cookies/fried cheese pockets/popcorn etc and finally dinner around 7:30, which again starts with soup, main course and a dessert. Needless to say, the kids never get a chance to get hungry.

As a T.C. however, we get additional 'treats'. T.C., meaning Trip Coordinator, is not my official title but a Peruvian (maybe South American?) term that entitles me to certain perks such as a free meal when we take the kids to a restaurant, free room in the hotels we stay and even for example, if all of my kids buy hats at a certain shop, they will throw in an extra for me. I have yet to try out that last one, but apparently it's fairly common.

Each day, as I climb to the students houses to check in on them, (a serious workout by the way on the complex system of 'paths' that seem to reinvent themselves each night like Pan's Labyrinth) the altitude and severe incline ensure that I am gulping oxygen by the time I get there and more often than not I am invited to partake in a meal. It is not only an insult to say no, but also to leave food on your plate, never mind that it might be your 6th meal of the day and its barely 3pm. Usually, I can hardly look at the mound of food on my plate let alone consume it. I have a problem.

The other day though, I came up with a sollution. It was one of the Señora's birthday and they were throwing a fiesta. Confetti sprinkled everywhere, music playing and guinea pig, among other things heaped on a plate for me right after lunch and a snack at the previous house. I knew I was in trouble. I picked at the food, delicious as it was, making sure they saw me enjoying it and wondered how I would possible clear my plate. Suddenly, it dawned on me, I asked Max, our local guide how to say this in Quechua and I stood up to exclaim "Tusú rukù suey'chis!" (Let's dance!). The birthday girl jumped up, already fairly drunk off chicha, the local corn brew and joined me, spinning and stomping with a giant grin. It worked! I pulled the kids into the fray and the rest clapped to the beat... ahh, it was one of those moments that will forever be with me. It may not work every time, but I'm keeping it up my sleeve ;).

The kids work hard every day constucting their guinea pig coops together with their Socma families. They mix mud with their feet, fashion adobe bricks (weighing about 45lbs when dry), carry and place the bricks to form the walls and sections of the coop and apply the mud mortar. They peel bamboo and set the roof tiles in place and when not building they shuck corn in the community fields, learn how to sew traditional dolls (a new womans initiative in Socma) and cut alfalfa to dry for their guinea pigs. They've also taught for a day in the local school, played soccer with the villagers (our tents are set up between the school and the field) and even frisbee or catch with a softball (yes that was my addition ;) At night, which comes early as the hills tightly embrace little Socma, we've played plenty of catchphrase and card games - it's a great life.

We have now finished our service in Socma, with a great ceremony 'christening' the new coops. It was a wonderful day and I'll write more on that in future entries. Today is our last day of camping with a Pacha Manca (traditional feast) and several important guests (like the Mayor of the Sacred Valley) and tomorrow we travel to Aguas Calientes, which is at the base of... Machu Picchu! Sunday will be my first visit to this majestic wonder of the world and I am very excited!

Hugs to all my friends and family - hopefully pics to come soon!

Rustic Peru

A knot of conflicting emotions, I boarded a shuttle at 2:30am for the Seattle Airport.  Although I was more prepared than I ever have been before, I guess Im getting good at this moving thing ;), I felt somewhat less prepared mentally.  I hit the ground running after India, never really getting out of a backpack, spending time in more than eight different towns and three states and while these reunions were so needed and they did charge my batteries in a way, I just never had time to stop and breath, reset.

I plodded through the all too familiar airport routine, check-in, throw out the remainder of my drink, take off my shoes, scan and shuffle slowly to the gate, sleep deprived and scrolling through thoughts and ideas and questions and memories...

Both flights went smoothly and around 11pm (Peru is on central time), I collected my bags and witnessed my first evidence of the swine flu scare, as every employee of an airline or an airport was wearing a face-mask.  An eery first impression of Peru.  I met my new boss, Gabe, got a couple hours sleep, before we turned right back around and boarded a plane from Lima to Cuzco.

At slighty more than 10,000ft, training began and over the course of the week, myself and another summer staff, along with the country director and program manager, became oriented with the towns and villages that we'd be working in for the next 10 weeks.  We had an official meeting with the Mayor of the Sacred Valley, which was interesting and I visited Socma, the village that I would be bringing students to (the project involves three villages in the valley).  As a wonderful surprise, the villagers had prepared a "pachamanca" for us (a traditional meal for special occasions).  They gathered in the town square (where we will be camping) and uncovered the goat and potatoes that had been roasting under hot stones and earth.  We each received a heaping plate full and as an 'aperitif' a glass of chicha, a drink of fermented corn (not much of a fan).  Afterwards, we introduced ourselves and a couple of the women sprinkled freshly plucked flower petals over our heads - such a humbling honor.

Later that night, we met with the heads of the village to discuss the logistics and goals of the project.  My spanish comprehension is holding up surprisingly well, but I need a vast improvement in my speaking abilities.  Many of the villagers only speak Quechua, for which we have a translator, but I have made it a goal to learn some of that as well.  There were several moments in which speakers became emotional either because this project is going to mean so much to the community or more often because we are unfortunately lacking the funds to complete the project as planned.  We have had to scale back our original proposal and therefore some of the families will not be getting their guinea pig coops this year.  I was so incredibly touched that I have decided to raise funds for the project, so please stay tuned for more information on ways you may be able to help!

This weekend, we finally had a free evening and so after a delicious dinner and a fantastic display of fireworks and crackers strung up on rickety bamboo towers (and of course its the first time that I, for whatever reason, decided to leave my camera at home), I ventured into Cuzco for some long awaited salsa dancing and reggaeton, bringing back very pleasant memories of my life in Guatemala.

Next, we flew back to Lima, will check out the site of the "Dolphins in the Desert" program tomorrow (did you know that Peru has one of the largest dolphin populations in the world?) and the kiddies arrive late on the 9th!  Phew, wish me luck!

Check out my itinerary and information regarding the other programs being run here in Peru!

https://www.rusticpathways.com/2009/peru/psv.html

The Highlights

Just a short two months ago, I was writing about being back in the States, visiting my wonderful friends and spending time in a "home" again and now... my time is up and my compass is set for Peru - My next big Adventure!

I never can believe how quickly time flies and I want to appologize for my lack of blog fodder. It is not that I haven't had much to write about, on the contrary, I've simply let the blog slip while I enjoyed the finer aspects of being in America. In an attempt to catch up and also avoid verbosity, I've collected a list of April and May's highlights.

In attempted chronological order:

Utah

• Seeing Alisa, a pure light in my life, and her adorable and expressive little one, Crosby.
• Watching Crosby grow up before my eyes and getting to know D a little better.
• 'Reunion Time 2009' with a surprisingly big turnout of fellow HHS Rams, most with signifigant others and/or children in tow.
• Somewhat watching the Jazz game, but mostly catching up with Brandon and getting a lesson on iphone applications :)
• Playing Dress-up on more than one occasion, especially our entertaining 31c scoop night at Baskin Robins dressed in full Indian/Bengali regalia - Saris, bindis, bangles and all!
• Girl Talks.
• Reuniting with Gabe after 10 years!
• My first fly-fishing experience in Flaming Gorge with Mason and his brother, despite the blizzard!
• Annual visit to Red Butte Gardens and the addition of a secluded river walk.
• A Bees double-header with Steph and the infamous Travis.
• Dinner with Natalie and Drinks with Alex.
• My first round of frisbee golf.
• Introducing Brandon to Letterboxing and inventing a new game, 'Shuffle-Golf', on a green with a view, nearing midnight.
• Seeing Steele.

Oregon

• Spending more time with my good friends, Dan, Nikki, Dave, Lauren, Adam and Kate.
• Seeing Thomas again as I joined the Titanic Tour for a couple weeks of 'hard' work :)
• Alina's first Birthday party.
• New friends, Bart, Dawn, and Dixie.
• Introducing TK to letterboxing, learning to longboard, playing tennis, basketball, handball and bowling. Nalgene chocolate balls, coastal snapshots, daily blossoms and the magic wand ;)
• The Sammamish River Trail and taking Dixie for a roll.

Washington

• Spending quality time, like drives to waterfalls, with my parents.
• Playing catch in the sunshine and chatting about life with my dad.
• Rootbeer floats and washing the car with my mom.
• Dressing up for Jazz Night and seeing Laura several times.

As always, my heart goes out to all my friends. It has truly been so so nice to see you all and Im already looking forward to seeing you again. Next entry will be from the Country of Peru, my 33rd!

Top Tens

Get ready for a bunch of lists! I've been asked by just about everyone I know, what it's like being back, what I miss, what I am doing now and for how long will I stay. I'm still waiting to hear about the job in Peru, but for now, after a few weeks in America, I've put together several lists for your (or my ;) enjoyment. In no particular order:

Top Ten Things I Miss About India:

• Delicious Indian chai - anywhere, anytime
• Being surrounded by women in elegant rainbow colored saris and salwar kamiz
• Indian hospitality and of course my wonderful friends over there!
• Indian food (especially samosas, parathas, dal, malai kofta, Sathi lassi, and a Gujarati Thali!)
• Colorfully painted trucks and buses with funny words on the back and mini neon shrines inside
• Rickshaw rides with Indian drivers on Indian roads
• Random parades of people/kids/marching bands/floats/animals/lights etc
• Cute Indian children saying hello, excited to practice their English and encouraged to shake my hand
• The prices! Lodging and meals and books and clothes for under $3!
• Last, but definitely not least, the Indian head wobble :)

Top Ten Things I Do NOT Miss About India:

• The smell of urine randomly throughout town
• Dodging blobs of chunky multicolored spittle
• Neglected, begging children
• Wasting so much plastic because you can't drink tap water
• Incessant honking/jingling/beeping/blasting
• My perpetually dirty feet
• No toilet paper, squat toilets and bucket showers
• "Hello!" Being shouted at me every other minute/Being aggressively pestered in the marketplaces
• Being given wrong directions/information/time, usually in an effort to help, but often with an opposite effect
• Last and definitely most annoying, throwing of garbage on the ground

Top Ten Things That I Have Enjoyed About Being Back In America:

• Reuniting with so many marvelous friends
• Spending time with my family
• Being in a "home" that is somewhat mine
• Meat, cheese and spiked hot cocoa :)
• Going for jogs and starting to get back into shape
• My extra soft bed with it's electric blanket
• Feeling 100% clean
• Getting out of a backpack
• Change of clothes, especially my favorite hoody!
• Driving!

Top Ten Places That I Went In India:

• Leh, Ladakh
• McLeod Ganj, Himachal Pradesh
• Manali, Himachal Pradesh
• Amritsar, Punjab
• Taj Mahal, Agra, Uttar Pradesh
• Pushkar, Rajasthan
• Bundi, Rajasthan
• Orcha, Madhya Pradesh
• Mumbai, Maharashtra
• Hampi, Karnataka

Top Ten Experiences While In India:

• Indian festivals (I couldn't narrow them down) Diwali, Uttarayan, Holi etc.
• Participating in an Indian wedding
• Riding camels in the Rajasthan
• Cross-country train rides
• The Pakistan border guard ceremony at Atari
• Attending a reading by the Dalai Lama and a Tibetan-in-exile protest
• Riding bikes down from the world's highest motorable pass (Khardung La, 5359m)
• Yatra season in Haridwar, Uttarakhand
• Being in a Bollywood Movie
• Participating in Rakhi, being interviewed, filmed, and on the 9 o'clock news

Phew! I've got lists galore, but I'll stop there for now :) I want to say a big THANKS to Caroline for visiting last week and Laura for having us over! I had so much fun with you two girls and look forward to our next reunion - PWoo! I am incredibly thrilled to be heading to Utah this week to see even MORE of my favorite people in the world. What a lucky girl I am!

Back! (for now)

I'm back! Back in the USofA. After ten months in sunny India and SE Asia, I've returned to the cold and rainy Pacific North West. My natural body temperature has always been a little lower than the average Joe, but I really think that by missing winter, my central heating put itself into hibernation until next fall. I simply cannot get warm!

My last few weeks in India were fantastic. I returned to Bundi for a third time. As I walked the streets, people recognized me and invited me in for chai. I spent time with my Indian family. One night, a pregnant woman and several of her female family and friends were over since she was close to labor and Rupa (my Indian mother) is a nurse. The power kept flickering on and off so candles were lit. We watched bits and pieces of a children comedians show - these kids were so funny, I was laughing out loud despite not understanding a word! Suddenly, Rupa emerged with a sari in hand and told me I needed to practice my sari wrapping skills. I proceeded to learn a couple different styles and then repeated the process several times, with all eyes on me until they were satisfied. I felt as though I was being initiated. Then Rupa asked me to teach them salsa dancing and thus, in the intermittent dim and bright lighting, with the help of my mini iPod speakers, I taught (and entertained) women in saris how to swivel their hips and spin with attitude :).

Back in Pushkar, I was unsuccessful in my attempt to surprise my friends and they all received me with open arms. It was so nice to be in familiar places with familiar friendly faces for a change. I had planned my visit to coincide with my last big Indian festival, Holi, a two day festival of light and color. The first day is celebrated with controlled fires in the streets and the first color being gently spread on eachother cheeks and hair. The second day (more often than not, after profuse drinking the night before), the real debauchery begins! Giant bags of rainbow powders and huge waterguns filled with colored water are produced. Starting in the early morning people, mostly men, gather in the market places and neighborhood parks to paint eachother as thoroughly and in as many colors as possible. Groups of men came to the hotel to entice the occupants out into the fray and I was warned not to go to the market since an unfortunate activity, sadly becoming a tradition, is the drunk men tearing off the clothes of anyone they can get their hands on (naïve female tourists being the most popular victims).

Holi is the one day in the entire Indian year in which the police look the other way, conservative values get blindfolds and Indians try to get all of their lust, passion, practical joking and curiosity out of their systems. The idea behind it though, covering everyone of various shades of white to brown to black, head to toe like an artists pallet, so that at the end of the day we all look the same, is a really attractive idea to me and I wish we had a similar holiday in the States! Of course, that extends into the next several days where everyone is various shades of pink since that's the color that seems to dye the skin (even after scrubbing in the pool and 5 showers!).

I did try to sneak down towards the marketplace in order to get some shots, you know me, despite the warnings. I thought I would be able to avoid the worst of the revelers. To my great disappointment, before getting even two minutes away from my hotel, I was approached by three boys in their twenties, colored powder in hand and while two of then spread it on my arms, the third reached as far down my shirt as he could before I reared back and walloped him across the face. They scurried off and although I was glad I got in a sound slap, they had ruined my optimism and I decided that as a single girl, with a camera to protect, perhaps I should not attempt the marketplace after all (as a side note, several girls did go down later with several of the guys, trusting they would be safe in a group. They were sadly mistaken. Two of the girls shirts were ripped open and others were fondled... such a shame that they ruin what could be a wonderful festival!).

I spent the rest of the day with my friends, playfully using eachother for canvases and then jumping in the pool so that the turquoise blue turned a delicate shade of lilac. Another sad farewell set me on my last overnight bus ride to Delhi. I bought an extra bag to carry my gifts and souvenirs and before I could drink one last chai, I was on my nearly 30 hour set of flights to the good ol' PNW. To those of you who read this, a BIG hug to all my lovely Indian friends! I miss you!

...

So what now? Well, I just finished reunioning with some of my favorite people in the world! First, my dear friend Fergus made his way to Washington to visit me, in this our fourth country together. I had a wonderful time showing him around Mt. Vernon, Anacortes, Portland, Cannon Beach and Seattle. We hiked, took pictures (including just a couple jumping shots ;), strolled markets, met some of my friends for delicious home cooked American food (Thanks Kate) and hilarious rounds of catchphrase (where Fergus earned a new nickname). We "caught a movie" and crashed at Dan and Nikki's (Thanks loves!), pot-lucked with some of my favorite Seattlites, toured the underground and he ate his first turkey bacon, American Burger, Krispy Kreme doughnut, Beef Jerky, Crackerjacks AND bacon icecream (God bless America hehe - and chef Niels)! Plus his first Baseball game (which I was quite pleased did not bore him to pieces :). So glad you could visit Fergus, I had a brilliant time, although the bruises from slugbug (not beetlebuggy) /yellowcar /minipunch are still healing, and I look forward to our next adventure!

Immediately back down in Oregon, I got to meet the newest addition to the pacific circle, little Violet Ross and chat with Angie, Annie and Katherine. I joined Dave and Lauren for dinner and my first encounter with Rock Band! And then again for a night of good food (cheers Nikki!), catchphrase and once the 6 bottles of wine kicked in, crazy camera antics! Ahhhh, I am absolutely in love with my friends!

Now, it's on to being productive, getting organized, getting a job (I've applied for a job in Peru this summer), looking forward to Caroline's visit next week and then my trip to Utah the week after that! Full schedule, but if anyone else wants to get together while I'm in the States, just let me know! :)

A Rare Valley

I've recently emerged from a rare valley in two senses of the word. I mentioned in the last entry that I would be visiting Hampi, a small town in a magical boulder-strewn landscape of banana plantations, freckled with more ruins, (a misnomer, as most were in surprisingly good shape) and temples still in use (more than 550 monuments), than I could have possibly explored in the measly three days that I was there.

I also found myself in a metaphorical valley, which even now I find hard to describe. Everything within me had sunk. My motivation was down, my spirit of adventure was down, my excitement of the next place, the next discovery, the next friend, were all just down.

Since my return to India, a yearning had been growing in my soul. Unidentifiable until a few weeks ago, but nonetheless heavy and concerning. Most of my blog entries and corespondances with friends and family have been filled with optimism and facination for everything around me, but an enigmatic feeling was demanding my attention and if I am to be entirely forthcoming, I thought I ought to share some of this with you :).

I finally realized that I needed peace. Yes, world peace would be nice, but I'm not running for Miss America. Inner peace is also somewhere on the list but what I needed is far less esoteric. I needed a little peace of mind and even more pressing, peace and quiet in my ears! Ha, having been in India for more than 8 months and most of that time spent on the move, various modes of transportation, friends houses, guesthouses, tents, waiting rooms, terminal platforms etc with no place to call my own. Without checkout times, someone waiting for me, time tables to review or tickets to book. No place absent from rickshaw touts or 'tour guides' or men shouting at you to follow them to a hotel for a commision, or every single product in their 5x10ft corner stall or did I mention a lovely Pashmina, "100% madam, cheap and best, I give you good price, first sale of the day, my good luck, please madam, looking is free, only look!". If I had a rupee for everytime someone hollared "Hello!" at me, not to me, at me, I could fund my trip. I would even take 50 paise for each horn honk/beep/blast/jingle and I would be a millionaire several times over - in USD. It has not mattered where I am; there is never a moment free of animal sounds, human sounds, traffic sounds, industrial sounds - noise. It is no wonder that this is the country that created yoga and meditation, where sadhus wander in search of enlightenment and hermits seek caves to escape the chaos (although I have my own theory of a natural magnetism that has developed in Indians. They seem to gravitate to each other, preferring to be shoulder to shoulder in an empty room than the personal bubble other societies deem necessary. What is the opposite of claustrophobia?)

All of this had been a weight increasing gradually despite the exciting day-to-day activities and warm, generous company. I felt as if I had no goal. That 2009 started aimlessly and question marks ahead were amassing faster than I could organize them. Travel, job, projects, relationships, potential relationships... I missed spending time with someone that actually knew me. Someone that understood me and shared more that a common travel schedule. You know, I missed being around my close friends. I, as shocking as it sounds even to me, needed some continuity in my life for a change.

One event suddenly accelerated the crescendo. With all of this and more, swirling viciously around in my head, a very dear friend of mine... decided I was no longer a dear friend of theirs. Saving you all the melodrama of heartache, I shall just say this came at a most inopportune time and indeed, I still feel a profound loss.

I battled each night with my inherent cheerfulness, sense of adventure and opportunity against this disconcerting angst and confusion.

My schedule had changed several times due to the cancellation of the wedding and twice the cancellation of a friend’s visit (and subsequent rescheduling) which only exacerbated the feeling of constant flux. With more time on my hands than expected, I talked myself into one last jaunt south to see Hampi, which I had wanted to see since the beginning of my trip, before I retreated north to Delhi. Thank Ganesh that I did, for it was in Hampi that I reached a stopping point in my decent, found peace however brief and could finally look up to see a little clarity versus the miasmic blur below.

Arriving in Hampi, I could tell it was absolutely my kind of place. Only one tenth of the sites are protected by the World Heritage Organization, so one could easily play Indian Jones and explore entire ancient complexes all alone. Perfect.

The first day, after checking out the main temple, I absconded to a hillock just outside town. Incredibly impressed with the sheer number of ruins, the explorer in me resurfaced. Around noon, I spotted a tiny temple of sorts, really just four granite pillars with a roof perched atop a huge pile of boulders. It looked difficult to reach, which not only appealed to my competitive side but also meant few others would be around. I set my compass.

It took me quite a while to find a viable way up and about half way there, hopping and climbing from rock to rock, I was stopped in my tracks by a family of monkeys. About 15-20 of them I would say, napping together, arms wrapped around each other. SO sweet! They paid me no attention while I snapped a few pictures until I suddenly noticed, having been glued to my camera lense, that one was inches away from my feet! Big curious eyes shone up at me and as I stepped backwards, several more of the younger monkeys gathered near. Instantly I realized I was on a tiny rock island and if the monkeys decided I was invading their grounds, I would be in trouble. With no loose rocks at my feet, the only thing I had to look like a weapon, was my wallet, Ha! I raised it as if to throw and they shrunk back but the longer that we stood there staring at each other, the more I realized they were not threatening me, they were purely curious. Soon, I allowed them to circle my feet, pinch my toes as if feeling the texture of the skin and pull at the elastic on my sandals. They were especially curious about my camera, their reflection in the lense and the flash. Ah, it was truly a rare interaction with animals in the wild, each demonstrating a distinct personality! I was enamoured by them. Eventually though, I slipped past them and continued up to my spot.
Secluded, yet in full view of the sunshine, the highest point in the area, with a marvellous view, I had been drawn here for a reason. I spent the next 4 hours here. Restless Thoughts kept cropping up, 'I should get a move on, wasting time, so much to explore', 'maybe I should go get a bite to eat or a bottle of water or check my email...’ I actually had to convince myself to stop moving. Stop thinking of things to fill the time and for once, just be. Slowly the feelings and ruminations that had settled like dust on my heart began to be swept up. In the relative quiet (though not silence), I allowed myself to do a little early spring cleaning :). I meditated, I sun bathed, I breathed, I even got up and danced to my ipod - it felt as though I was shooting a cheesy music video in this very unique setting :). And I smiled. I had reached a couple epiphanies and could finally start climbing back up (or literally back down since the sun was setting).


The next day I walked in a different direction, this time along a beautiful little river, temples nestled along the banks, villagers doing laundry and selling fresh fruit. I ventured upon a forgotten temple away from the rest and stepped inside. Taking my shoes off to feel the cool stone, the history beneath my feet. I walked through four or five doorways until I was in the inner sanctum sanctorum where the light was limited to a shaft above and glowed iridescently just like in a movie. And lo, silence! My ears rang, confused as they were, in the absence of sound. Absolute silence. The aura of sanctity and peace calmed my ears and soon, save for a bird chirp here and there, I could hear myself...

I wish I could bottle that place and carry it with me wherever I went, but it served it's purpose. I found it when I most needed it and it was like shutting down your system when it's on the fritz and rebooting. Starting fresh. It felt good.

On my last day, I had the morning to hike a little more, buy some fresh bananas and meet up with a friend of mine from Mumbai who had just arrived before I grabbed a bus to Goa, India's hippie coast. I spent several days on the beach in a small hut with a bunch of jolly Brits, swimming, hiking, watching movies, spotting dolphins, eating delicious shark and shopping at the famous flea market. Next stop was Pune for a night with a local chap to show me around, then Valentines Day spent on a 30hour train ride in which I boarded the wrong train to Delhi, but as I've been the recipient of many a wonderful Indian twists, a family including two boys around 20yrs old, sacrificed one of their berths for me and even bought me chocolate cake, wishing me a Happy Vday - what sweethearts! Yes, I was indeed on my way up :)

"India has a way of confounding you and still making you laugh about it." I read recently in the book, In Spite of the Gods. So true. I am now back in Delhi with my Austrian friends at their little oasis awaiting my friend's arrival on the 24th, which should serve to further clarify several pressing matters. After that, I have just a couple weeks before I board a jet plane back to the good ol' USofA! I am busy making plans to see a few friends, pick up a few gifts and enjoy a few of my favorite aspects of India before I leave. The rickshaw ride to the house, whizzing through traffic, the driver stopping for pan (an addictive minty concoction wrapped in a leaf, chewed for seemingly hours and requiring the repetetive ejection of red juice), even the beeping had become endearing again and I know I will sorely miss it.

Mumbai Mania

Phew! I am sure falling behind on my updates! At the risk of omitting certain facts and observations, let me instead summarize the exciting, glamorous and educational chaos that was Mumbai.

First let me say I have become a huge fan of the website www.couchsurfing.com, which in March, will reach it's one millionth member (could be you)! I have used it 3 times now with resounding results! Each time, I met brilliant people that not only offered me a place to stay, a home being so much better than a rundown lonely guesthouse, but also shared unique perspectives on their respective hometowns and provided excellent company out in the nightclubs/pubs, camping, festivals, beaches and eyeopening tours like my "slumdog tour" on motorbike. A big thanks to all those I met through the site, through friends of friends and special thanks goes to Jayant, Mahesh, Rushank, and Sanu!

Mumbai, like the rest of India is a city full of contrast. I feel I overuse that word, but nothing is more true. That being said, Mumbai is extremely unique in it's modernity and style. I had the chance to see Slumdog Millionaire while I was in Ahmedabad (before it came out ;) and then again in the theatre in Mumbai. I loved it and highly recommend it although, the same cannot be said of my Mumbaiker friends, most of whom feel it sets Mumbai in an undeserving negative light. If you understand the film is just one fictional story, and not meant to be a documentary, then it is hard not to appreciate the score, the cinematography and the screenplay - go see it for yourself and tell me what you think! My friend Steve said that the sheer enthusiasm for life was what shone through and it made him want to come here - Yes! :)

Rushank, one outspoken Mumbaiker made it a goal to take me on a tour of his Mumbai vs Slumdog's Mumbai. I got to see all of the places that they filmed as well as his favorite parts of the city (which I had to buy a pair of heeled shoes for as my backpacker garb just wouldn't do ;). It was one of my favorite days in the city!

Many of my 12 days in Mumbai were spent wandering various parts of the massive city. Eating the local specialty of Bhel Puri on Juhu beach, visiting the Iscon temple and the quiet national forest for a long walk to some ancient caves, more caves on elephanta island, being impressed by the beautiful architecture of the Colaba area including the imposing Victoria Train Station, Taj Mahal Hotel and India Gate, finding a cafe that served a surprisingly tasty Washington Apple soup(!) and one day trip out to the secluded Khim beach with a random mix of travelers. The nights were not any less exciting!

One of the highlights of course, for those of you that noticed my status updates on facebook, was my taste of the bollywood scene! I absolutely adore the movies that I have seen since I have been here in India, Om Shanti Om being my favorite! I made it a goal to be an extra in one while I was in town, since I heard that they are often looking for foreigners. My luck held and I was approached by an agent my third day in town. It took a while for the right time to work out, but eventually I was in one TV series (where myself and another white girl, the token foreigners in an episode set in Canada, had to wear skimpy little outfits as opposed to the normal jeans and jackets of the other girls - typical) and two movies (London Dreams with the mega-star Salman Khan, yes I even got to shake his hand haha and Phir which starred a lesser known actor but was actually a lot more fun to shoot)!

Each of the movie shoots were about 12 hours long, most of which we waited and waited and waited. The food was good though, we were well taken care of with mineral water and fresh chai and for the second movie, I even got hair and makeup and costume! All the glamour you could expect for being an extra :). I hope to get pics up soon although the computers have not been very friendly towards uploads lately!

On my last night, a couple friends took me to a viewpoint to get a shot of the city. We sat around and chatted for a bit until a "tourist police" jeep rolled up and wanted to know what we were doing. We most certainly looked like hooligans up to no good so I am sure they were just doing their job. A 'discussion' took place between my friends and the 'authorities' which hovered around a) some document my friend did not have with him, I think an auto registration? and b) what a foreign girl was doing alone with two boys this late at night (nearing midnight). After some time, a (monetary) agreement was made and the police were on their way. Lovely impression to leave on a tourist when my poor friends were just trying to show me the good side of Mumbai!

One final highlight was an epic reunion. I have been in touch with a globetrotting friend of mine, Ivan, since we met in Germany in 2001. We met again in Austria in 2002, but since then, email and now facebook have been our only means to track each other all the while with hopes that our paths may cross again. And so they have! We were able to meet for a short 2 hours in a gorgeous rooftop restaurant with a sparkling view of the sun setting over the Indian Ocean since he happened to be here on business! This after 7 years! I love it :)

That night, I waved a wistful goodbye to Mumbai and arrived the next morning in Aurangabad, ready to explore 2nd century BC caves in the nearby towns of Ajanta and Ellora. I will unfortunately do them a great disservice by not going into detail, but they were both magnificent sites, chock full of incredible carvings, stone temples, sculptures and unbelievably well preserved paintings! I even saw the Bibi Ka Muqbara, nicknamed the "Baby Taj" for obvious reasons!

I've since been to Hampi, a truly magical place and will hopefully get that update, along with pics on here soon!