Island Hopping

This month I have added 4 countries to my list and spent the majority of my time on islands, which is out of the ordinary for me. I am currently at the Koh Samui airport, waiting for my 31st and final (I think!) flight of the year to Chiang Mai - back to the mainland!

I was finally able to meet up with my parents on the island nation of Singapore. It truly is one of the cleanest big cities that I have ever been to and the people are proud of it! I used the very easy metro system to get into town and met my parents sitting at a cafe outside their hotel - what a relief it was to see them after all the shuffling around! Big hugs all around :).

They had already booked us a trip over to Bali, Indonesia since although Singapore may be a shoppers heaven (I've never seen so many shopping malls!) it did not have much character. We did however visit little India and my first meal shared with my parents was introducing them to some of my favorites acquired in the 6 months that I was there.

The resort in Bali was the nicest place I have ever stayed. We had a little villa near the gorgeous pool (including waterfalls, cave poolside bar and personal jacuzzi seats). A games area with pool, foosball, darts and pingpong was fun and to spite the heat outside, our place was a refrigerator, well stocked with fresh fruit and water. My favorite part was the outdoor shower that was a fantastic experience the one night that it rained (the hot and cold water combining to make a most relaxing clean! We feasted on Balinese Barbecue and watched golden dancers twist and weave to the eery bells and flutes of local music. We drove through local artisan villages to visit silversmiths and woodcarvers and ate another delicious meal with a view of the islands main volcano. On our last day, we snorkeled in the reef and fed the fish with bread. They ate right out of our hands and I absolutely loved it! That was the pinacle of the trip for me - there in the open water with both of my wonderful parents feeding exotic fish an afternoon lunch :). We also stopped on Turtle Island and fed sea turtles, held a couple exotic birds and I even played with the cutest bat you've ever seen and a giant snake!

We returned to Singapore for some shopping and a night safari which was quite fun. I got to try out a therapy that is banned in the states by putting my feet into an aquarium full of nibble fish that feel like little vibrations and suction eating your dead skin cells. Your feet emerge smooth as can be! Very cool. It was a sad goodbye when I boarded my next flight to Phuket, Thailand, but it made my holidays complete. This is my first Christmas away from home and spending time with my parents was much needed!! I love you Mom and Dad!

I met a few friends on Phuket island for Mandy's Birthday. Another Thai paradise, we stayed in the magnificent Indigo Pearl resort (Thank You Kerry!) and with the theme of a tin mine that used to exist there, the attention to detail was incredible. With 3 pools, 2 of which were adults only infinty pools and shops, several restaurants and bars, big grassy areas to lounge on and right across from the beach, you couldn't ask for much more. We had a great time lighting lanterns at night, sending our wishes into the starry skies and playing on the beach. We snorkeled in even clearer water than Bali and this time the fish favorite was bananas - I must have fed thousands! They crowded in, an inch from my face, nipping anything they could get close to, I even held one by its tail! Ha, brilliant.

Next stop, Kerry and I hopped a ferry over to PhiPhi Island, which although beautiful as well, was a bit overdeveloped and being squashed by construction everywhere. Accommodation was expensive, but we tracked down a decent place through the throngs of beach clad vacationers. Unfortunately, something came up back in Bangkok and Kerry had to leave the next day so I made my own plans to move on as well to Krabi, famous for its limestone cliff climbing. Before I left however, I watched the local women, swathed in Thai batik sarongs, taking advantage of the receding tide, sift through stones and naked coral for hidden crabs and enjoyed a Singapore Sling (the real Sling from the famed Raffles Hotel cost about $23!!) while catching up on my journal. In the evening, I had one of the best massages of my life - a traditional Thai massage, stretching me like salt water taffy! The next morning, with a breakfast of fresh fruit, the tide having come back, I walked along the waters edge strewn with boulders carved in the seas image, undulating and lapping at the land. I couldn't resist getting in the water once more but soon enough it was time to go.

Alone again, I hadn't figured out my direction from Krabi just yet, when a group of guys asked if I wanted to share a taxi into town. They had a flight to Koh Samui (where my parents and I had originally planned on going) and at $40, I decided to join them. I sacrificed the rock climbing for a good deal on a flight and the next day I found myself on island #5. The group split since most of them were looking for a wild and crazy beach to party all night on and I was looking for something a little more quiet. Nick, from London and I found some beach bungalows on a splendid little beach on the north side of the island. Ahh to be lulled to sleep every night by the sound of waves! :) Nick was great company and he also introduced me to the Heros TV series which was our nightly entertainment - I was hooked! We both tried windsurfing for the first time, SO much fun and NOT as easy as it looks! I also sprung for yet another massage and this was my new BEST! In a cute little open air hut with sheer curtains and a mere 5 meters from the rolling waves. The sensation of Tiger Balm simultaneously heating while the sea breeze cooled was intense. A floral scented cold compress on my eyes and face, she actually walked on my back and rolled me up onto her knees, suspending me and stretching me in the air! Wow, if only I had that every week!

Once Nick left to meet his friend on Koh Tao, I hired a motorbike (about $5 for 24hrs!) to explore the rest of the island. Dotted with numerous elaborate golden temples, shimmering with mirror work and watched over by giant Buddhas. I drove through palm plantations, hiked up dirt tracks looking for good view/picture points, bought more succulent fruits along the way and raced down the roads, topping out at a whopping 70k/hr, the winds narrowing my eyes and whipping my ponytail, my helmet slipping down making me feel like a super hero on vacation :). Ahh, I love the freedom of a motorbike! The next morning, I woke up early to visit one more site, I had the "Big Buddha" all to myself and a fantastic view of the island. !!!

Now, back in the mainland, I am looking forward to exploring Chiang Mai. I have no idea where I will be for Christmas... wish me luck on finding a suitable place to celebrate!

Bali Bound!

Well, it looks like what I thought would be a nice relaxing holiday visit with my parents and then some exploration of Thailand has turned into nothing of the sort!

As I mentioned before, I narrowly missed the mob heading to the Bangkok airport and my parents were not so lucky. After waiting a few days to see if the situation would be ameliorated, my parents chose to redirect to Singapore since they had a limited window for their vacation. After nearly a week absorbing the comforts of my friends' gorgeous flat, getting manicured, pedicured and massaged, my hair cut and even joining in an evening of "footy" (soccer) and attending a marvelous Ball/All-night-dance-party (Huge THANK YOU to Ange and Kerry!!), I managed through sheer luck to get a ticket on the train heading south that was sold out for a week and off I went!

If I thought I was on easy street being in Thailand, coming from India, I was wrong. While things were definitely more comfortable, the first thing I was told as I borded the luxurious train, was that the rails were flooded and we would have to get off early and manage a bus from there. 16 hours brought me to the border region where I processed through customs into Maylasia and in another 10hours I rolled into the capital, Kuala Lumpur. Once again, my friends are AMAZING and Kerry helped me connect with Mandy who was more than happy to invite this stranger into her fabulous flat (with rooftop pool and sauna) for a good nights rest. I am truly blessed!

A series of emails with my parents found that flights from Singapore to KL were canceled with the reopening of the bkk airport since they want to keep it from over-crowding (?) so as a desperate attempt to finally reunite us, I have a flight there tomorrow and then all three of us, with any luck, wing our way to Bali for some much needed (my parents anyway) R&R& hopefully some Asian culture!

PS: This makes flight #28 and country #31!!!

Trouble in Thailand

Many of you have been asking if I am alright with all this turmoil in Thailand so here is a quick update.

As I hopped in a taxi and directed it to my friends place, we zoomed down the highway towards town and I noticed what I thought was a parade going the opposite way. Flags awaving and car-fulls of people jammed the road. "What is that?" I pointed and the taxi driver casually answered, "The mob". "The mob? What mob?" He just smiled. I learned later that I had narrowly missed these anti-government protesters taking over of the airport, trapping thousands of passengers inside and stranding hundreds of thousands that were scheduled to leave in the coming days.

They say that an average of 30,000 people arrive at that airport every day and with that many people cancelling flights, hotels, tours, not shopping or eating out - not to mention the planes carrying food, mail and other products into and out of Thailand - this standoff is crippling. The trouble is, most of the yellow clad protesters (you wear red if you support the current government like highschool tug-of-war teams) are from the villages and are there just to boost the numbers. They are getting paid 500 a day to be there versus their average 100 baht income so why not? It's not hurting them at all! Most probably don't have any idea of the repercusions for their country. The government and military don't want to admit anything is really amiss and also want to avoid any violence so they continue to throw pebbles, ie not do anything that has any effect and life goes on as usual in the city.

Will there be a coup? No one knows. Will it get violent? The 'state of emergency' declared guarantees the military can get away with more, but no one wants that so... Who knows. All I know, is that my parents were supposed to arrive on Friday for a much needed vacation and have had to be rerouted all the way down to Singapore so I am off on a two day train ride to meet them. What a hassle! Wish me luck riding through malaysia which itself does not have the best reputation for travelers... all part of the adventure right?!

One Day in Dhaka

That's 24 hours plus one to be exact, that I spent in the Dhaka (capital of Bangladesh) airport. I prepared myself with a blanket and snacks for the long wait, only to find out that Biman Airways would actually put me up in a hotel and feed me, only to find out that in order to leave the airport I had to buy a $20 72 hour visa with either USD or local currancy, of course I had neither so it was back to plan A - sleeping in the lounge. Lounge really is a misnomer, because all I was provided was a hard plastic chair to lounge in, but Ive had worse places to sleep that's for sure!

Here is a brief outline of my stay:

10:30am- My 25th flight of the year lands gently in Dhaka and all 28 passengers climb out onto the tarmac and walk into the airport. I am pleasantly surprised with the large, modern and spotlessly clean building and am immediately met by a man inquiring whether I am proceeding on to Bangkok. "Follow me Madam".

11:30am- I have learned that I could have spent the day in a hotel, but that the government insists I pay $20 cash in order to set foot on their soil so I am shown the restaraunt where I can eat my meals and relegated to the waiting lounge.

12:45pm- I tell the waiter that I will take lunch at 1pm and settle into my new book, Midnight's Children by Salman Rushdie; a very good book so far.

1:00pm- No Lunch arrives so when I signal the server he indicates it's actually already...
1:30pm (apparently Bangladesh is half an hour ahead) and was confused about when I actually wanted to eat. So now I get my bland dal, plain rice and chicken drown in one layer of 'curry' and one of oil. I also notice pods of all-white clad people mulling about like airport disciples. I could definitely relate and considered joining their ranks but then decided they might be in a little deeper than I. Or, perhaps the airport had lost all of their luggage and gave them sheets to wear. I later find out they are pilgrims on their way to Mecca.

4:00pm- I've read quite a bit, watched a little Indian Idol (so bad, so hilarious!) and listened to my ipod when two ladies in purdah sit in front of me and soon after strike up a conversation. They become my companions for the rest of the evening as their flight did not leave until early the next morning and it was incredibly interesting speaking with them! Some of the first questions they ask me is if I am married, how old I am (*gasp* and not married??), and if I am traveling alone. One had her face completely covered and when I asked if she was married, she laughed and said she was only 16 - it is hard to tell just by the eyes! Once we established a relationship, I asked if they ever got tired of wearing all black and they said no, they were used to it. They wore colors under their long jacket, but it was for their protection so men would not look at them. The mother (who I guessed to be about 50), noticed I was reading a 'Learn Hindi' book and could not supress her excitement. For the next hour or two I was quizzed on all sorts of Hindi, most of which I must say I hadn't a clue. They would both speak to me from either side at the same time, neither minding that the other was also speaking, making it very difficult to even attempt to learn, but also an amusing process. Eventually, dinner time rolled around and I was spared future examination.

8:00pm- Dinner was served to all Biman transfer passengers at the same time so once the clock hands hit 8, about 150 people streamed in and by
8:15pm- the din of diners and their clattering cuttlery was over as most had seemingly inhaled the dal/rice/chicken combo.

10:00pm- Besides a brief break when my new friends retired to the prayer room, I have engaged in an animated conversation with them. They are eager to speak with a western girl as much as I am eager to hear from them. The 16yr olds eyes dart to and fro and points out a man passing us saying "See, he is looking at me" to support her purdah style (I think to myself, it might be because you are in purdah, I looked at you to... but keep it to myself). She also admits to me that she really likes Tom Cruise, "Ah, if only he wanted two wives!" she jokes.

We cover whether I eat pork, beef, wine. I am proudly shown the new jewelry they have purchased and asked why I wear none. The mother tells me she hopes I marry soon to which I reply I will when I find the right one, to which she laughs and says "No right one, not important. Important you marry." She tells me that although her older daughter is getting her MD, she felt it was time for her to marry (at 20yrs old) so she engaged her to a man in another country. She laughs again, when telling me that he daughter was 'furious' and worried she would not be able to complete her studies but graciously the groom-to-be has said that after the wedding she can stay until she finishes her studies. The 16yr old nods and says "There just comes a time when you have to get married". Aye aye. I am so glad I am not in that position but I am just as glad that I am getting this very interesting interaction!! So rarely I think, is someone like me, bearing my calves and all, let into this inner ring. Fleetingly, the teenager furtively removed the part that covered her face to adjust it and I was shocked to see her! It was quite strange to suddenly see the face that you had already been talking to and had an image of...

1:00am- I have felt tired on and off but even cuddled up in my blanket there are too many bright neon lights and shuffling noises to allow for sleep. A young girl sits in front of me, turns to observe me a couple time and then comes to sit right next to me, soon followed by her older sister. Turns out, they are from Bangladesh and moving to California. Both speak halting english but are SO interested to speak with me! "What are you wearing" is their first question since I was wrapped in my blanket. They want to fit in. I enjoy the interview and relish their excitement towards the new life head of them. I am their very first American and newest friend.

4:00am- I should be sleeping by now so as I start to curl up, the mother catches me with "Can I ask you something, no worry? No feel strange?", "Of course" I say. "I ask you in english and you answer in hindi okay?", "Okay I ask? One-two-three? Ek-do-teen?" she says delaying her own question. I can hardly wait to hear it. "So with your age... I mean, you had boyfriend yes? So... you have sexual experience?" Ha! I was not sure how to respond. I had already admitted to the wine and the pork and the boyfriend(s) but what do you say? I was very pleased that we clearly had established a trust enough that she could voice her curiosities especially in front of her young daughter who's framed eyes betrayed her intrigue. I did have experience I told her, not as much as some my age, but it had to be with the right person, which I hadn't yet found I repeated. "You don't... miss it?" Haha, this was brilliant! That line of questioning ended with her repeating her wish for me that I marry soon, very sweet.

7:00am- Breakfast time and my friends left to board their flight back to India. We exchanged emails and they insisted I stay with them if I am ever in town.

11:30am- My flight is finally boarding. I have my big backpack with me as well as my carry-on since I had to reclaim it and despite asking where I check it back in, I am directed right through security and onto the plane. "That's not going to fit in here Madam". "I know, I asked where I was supposed to put it..." "Well, we don't have a full flight so we can just strap it down in the seat next to you." Okay, easy enough for me. It's just like not getting my passport checked for my ticket in Calcutta (they just saw my printout and issued me a ticket) - security is not the same as it is in the states! And I was off to Thailand, flight #26, country #28, total of 3 hours flight time from Calcutta to Bangkok took me 28, but I would absolutely not have traded the experience for a direct flight!