One Day in Dhaka

That's 24 hours plus one to be exact, that I spent in the Dhaka (capital of Bangladesh) airport. I prepared myself with a blanket and snacks for the long wait, only to find out that Biman Airways would actually put me up in a hotel and feed me, only to find out that in order to leave the airport I had to buy a $20 72 hour visa with either USD or local currancy, of course I had neither so it was back to plan A - sleeping in the lounge. Lounge really is a misnomer, because all I was provided was a hard plastic chair to lounge in, but Ive had worse places to sleep that's for sure!

Here is a brief outline of my stay:

10:30am- My 25th flight of the year lands gently in Dhaka and all 28 passengers climb out onto the tarmac and walk into the airport. I am pleasantly surprised with the large, modern and spotlessly clean building and am immediately met by a man inquiring whether I am proceeding on to Bangkok. "Follow me Madam".

11:30am- I have learned that I could have spent the day in a hotel, but that the government insists I pay $20 cash in order to set foot on their soil so I am shown the restaraunt where I can eat my meals and relegated to the waiting lounge.

12:45pm- I tell the waiter that I will take lunch at 1pm and settle into my new book, Midnight's Children by Salman Rushdie; a very good book so far.

1:00pm- No Lunch arrives so when I signal the server he indicates it's actually already...
1:30pm (apparently Bangladesh is half an hour ahead) and was confused about when I actually wanted to eat. So now I get my bland dal, plain rice and chicken drown in one layer of 'curry' and one of oil. I also notice pods of all-white clad people mulling about like airport disciples. I could definitely relate and considered joining their ranks but then decided they might be in a little deeper than I. Or, perhaps the airport had lost all of their luggage and gave them sheets to wear. I later find out they are pilgrims on their way to Mecca.

4:00pm- I've read quite a bit, watched a little Indian Idol (so bad, so hilarious!) and listened to my ipod when two ladies in purdah sit in front of me and soon after strike up a conversation. They become my companions for the rest of the evening as their flight did not leave until early the next morning and it was incredibly interesting speaking with them! Some of the first questions they ask me is if I am married, how old I am (*gasp* and not married??), and if I am traveling alone. One had her face completely covered and when I asked if she was married, she laughed and said she was only 16 - it is hard to tell just by the eyes! Once we established a relationship, I asked if they ever got tired of wearing all black and they said no, they were used to it. They wore colors under their long jacket, but it was for their protection so men would not look at them. The mother (who I guessed to be about 50), noticed I was reading a 'Learn Hindi' book and could not supress her excitement. For the next hour or two I was quizzed on all sorts of Hindi, most of which I must say I hadn't a clue. They would both speak to me from either side at the same time, neither minding that the other was also speaking, making it very difficult to even attempt to learn, but also an amusing process. Eventually, dinner time rolled around and I was spared future examination.

8:00pm- Dinner was served to all Biman transfer passengers at the same time so once the clock hands hit 8, about 150 people streamed in and by
8:15pm- the din of diners and their clattering cuttlery was over as most had seemingly inhaled the dal/rice/chicken combo.

10:00pm- Besides a brief break when my new friends retired to the prayer room, I have engaged in an animated conversation with them. They are eager to speak with a western girl as much as I am eager to hear from them. The 16yr olds eyes dart to and fro and points out a man passing us saying "See, he is looking at me" to support her purdah style (I think to myself, it might be because you are in purdah, I looked at you to... but keep it to myself). She also admits to me that she really likes Tom Cruise, "Ah, if only he wanted two wives!" she jokes.

We cover whether I eat pork, beef, wine. I am proudly shown the new jewelry they have purchased and asked why I wear none. The mother tells me she hopes I marry soon to which I reply I will when I find the right one, to which she laughs and says "No right one, not important. Important you marry." She tells me that although her older daughter is getting her MD, she felt it was time for her to marry (at 20yrs old) so she engaged her to a man in another country. She laughs again, when telling me that he daughter was 'furious' and worried she would not be able to complete her studies but graciously the groom-to-be has said that after the wedding she can stay until she finishes her studies. The 16yr old nods and says "There just comes a time when you have to get married". Aye aye. I am so glad I am not in that position but I am just as glad that I am getting this very interesting interaction!! So rarely I think, is someone like me, bearing my calves and all, let into this inner ring. Fleetingly, the teenager furtively removed the part that covered her face to adjust it and I was shocked to see her! It was quite strange to suddenly see the face that you had already been talking to and had an image of...

1:00am- I have felt tired on and off but even cuddled up in my blanket there are too many bright neon lights and shuffling noises to allow for sleep. A young girl sits in front of me, turns to observe me a couple time and then comes to sit right next to me, soon followed by her older sister. Turns out, they are from Bangladesh and moving to California. Both speak halting english but are SO interested to speak with me! "What are you wearing" is their first question since I was wrapped in my blanket. They want to fit in. I enjoy the interview and relish their excitement towards the new life head of them. I am their very first American and newest friend.

4:00am- I should be sleeping by now so as I start to curl up, the mother catches me with "Can I ask you something, no worry? No feel strange?", "Of course" I say. "I ask you in english and you answer in hindi okay?", "Okay I ask? One-two-three? Ek-do-teen?" she says delaying her own question. I can hardly wait to hear it. "So with your age... I mean, you had boyfriend yes? So... you have sexual experience?" Ha! I was not sure how to respond. I had already admitted to the wine and the pork and the boyfriend(s) but what do you say? I was very pleased that we clearly had established a trust enough that she could voice her curiosities especially in front of her young daughter who's framed eyes betrayed her intrigue. I did have experience I told her, not as much as some my age, but it had to be with the right person, which I hadn't yet found I repeated. "You don't... miss it?" Haha, this was brilliant! That line of questioning ended with her repeating her wish for me that I marry soon, very sweet.

7:00am- Breakfast time and my friends left to board their flight back to India. We exchanged emails and they insisted I stay with them if I am ever in town.

11:30am- My flight is finally boarding. I have my big backpack with me as well as my carry-on since I had to reclaim it and despite asking where I check it back in, I am directed right through security and onto the plane. "That's not going to fit in here Madam". "I know, I asked where I was supposed to put it..." "Well, we don't have a full flight so we can just strap it down in the seat next to you." Okay, easy enough for me. It's just like not getting my passport checked for my ticket in Calcutta (they just saw my printout and issued me a ticket) - security is not the same as it is in the states! And I was off to Thailand, flight #26, country #28, total of 3 hours flight time from Calcutta to Bangkok took me 28, but I would absolutely not have traded the experience for a direct flight!