I'm once again in Mcleod Ganj after a week in Tashi Jong that truly flew, 2 long travel days to and from the north (one of which involved one very upset tummy on an all out angry road full of bumps, potholes, cattle, hairpin turns and a stuffed jeep), and 2 very hot and humid days in Delhi. On the last day, the kids had the opportunity to shop (which they whole-heartedly took advantage of - the bags piled in a veritable shrine not to a hindu god but rather the power of the dollar) and then spent the afternoon at a country club where they could swim in a private setting, relax, get henna and a good meal before they flew out. That night we successfully traded 10 kids for 36 (yikes!), Delhi day tour the next day in monstrous bus and then a jeep caravan of 8 yesterday! Phew! They seem like a great bunch *knock on wood* so I'm looking forward to getting to know them.
I feel so lucky for the opportunity to spend time in both places. Mcleod seems like such an escape from Delhi what with the exhaust fumes, dust and dirt, urine, heat, fried samosas, cow manure and sweat giving way to a calming incense wafting from the temples and private alters through open windows. The two main roads redolent of steamed Thingmo bread and Momos (Tibetan dumplings) and fresh rain. There is a CD shop that continuously plays Tibetan temple chants with a lulling backmusic and even the honking cars and motorbikes are punctuated by the sight of prayer flags flapping from every rooftop carrying the message of peace into the breeze. The program I am running is called "Service in the Clouds" and there couldnt be a more apt name. The clouds are more alive here than any other place I have ever been. They come and go with such purpose and when they choose to stay it gives everything such an ethereal appearance. One day, the staff went for a cup of chai in a tiny little shop just large enough for two benches and a nook for the fire and teapot. As we sat chatting and relaxing after a full morning the beautiful view from the window became opaque and then white and suddenly it was like an invisible hand was pulling cotton across our laps - perhaps that cloud just wanted to join us for a chai :).
Whereas, Mcleod feels like an escape from Delhi, Tashi Jong is an escape from Mcleod Ganj. Tashi is so small most people have never heard of it. Its a close community of Tibetan Refugees in an idealic setting of rice fields and rivers combing brilliant green hills. There are no backpackers, no markets, no traffic, there arent even any roads through town! One small road ends in the town square. In one direction, directly off the square, is the temple complex where monks from the tender age of 6 up learn the ways of budhist life. All day long, you can see them pacing the roof with books in their hands, chatting in the stairwells through ornate windows, circumabulating the Kora (a loop around the Temple including spinning each of 30 prayer wheels), even buying treats in one of two tiny shops in the square (where the owners sit making incredibly intricate wood carvings for purchase and for use in stamping prayer flags). The now familiar garnet and saphron robes strolling around town add a distinctly feeling of content to lovely Tashi Jong.
Off another side of the square is the only quest house in town where the staff stay (the kids have homestays) and then buffering the last side is where all of the laypeople live in a wonderful matrix of slender aisles and houses. Everything is within a 5 minute walk until you cross the bridge and head towards the neighboring indian village and the bus stop a good 20 minutes away.
I began each day rising just after 6 am so that I could do my own Kora. I spun each set of wheels with a specific person/s in mind, continued up the steps to the temple which is one of my favorite sights early in the morning, so colorful and happy. Around to a small room holding 3 giant prayer wheels with rods sticking out of them that rang a bell with each revolution. At this point I'm usually walking alongside other townfolk doing their own morning routine. I'd then pass a pile of stones painted with Tibten symbols and mantras and then sneak off to the left, where I never once saw another person. A path led to the cremation area and beyond that a quaint meadow adorned with hundreds of prayer flags, some faded strings of white, tattered, others fresh and brightly colored to represent the 5 elements (wind, water, cloud, earth and fire). This was my place. My spot, every morning to breath and be with myself as the sun rose and made those flags glow... true peace. It was a wonderful way to start the day :).
The kids day began at 7am. We met and hiked up to a retreat center where we would meet with the mayor of Tashi (a monk) who would speak to us about Budhism, answer questions and teach us about meditation, which we would also do for a portion of that hour. The necessary cup of chai was delivered by a darling little 9 year old girl. At 8, return to their houses for breakfast and to prepare for 3 hours of service either digging holes for medicinal trees, building a fence or repairing the road. Break for lunch cooked by the community, delicious and hearty Tibetan food and then 3-4 more hours of service, this time speaking english with monks and laypeople and then in the local school room with kids ages 5-16. Afterwards we had an activity such as prayer flag printing with a master carver, Tsatsa making (religious ornaments), cooking and weaving and then the kids have some free time before dinner around 7 or 8. A pretty full day but so very very rewarding!
Tibetans and some of the nicest and warmest people I have ever met. In Tashi, we really felt a part of the community. People would randomly come and join in the service. They would suddenly appear with a pot of freshly brewed chai and cups for everyone. The teenage Tibetans spoke pretty good english and actually made pretty good friends with the staff and a couple of the students. The only other foreigners in town are a couple of great chaps, a brit and an aussie (one of the kids affectionately nicknamed them the "accent guys"), who are living there for 6 months teaching english to monks. They have provided many a laugh :). It is just a marvelous place.
As a farewell, on the last night we had a big potluck in the main hall. The teenagers decorated with streamers and each family brought a dish or two. All of the students and staff dressed up in borrowed Chupas (the traditional tibetan dress) and Eric, the other staff, and I even tried to make cookies with extremely limited supplies and frying them on a chapati (flat bread) iron pan... haha, surprisingly they weren't bad! After dinner, we all learned some traditional Tibetan dance and then broke out the ipod speakers and had one serious dance party!! Ha, pictures soon to come hopefully :)
Phew! I feel great to finally give you all a decent update and wish I could snap my fingers to bring you all over here to experience this yourself! Its unbelievable at times and I haven't even been here for a month yet!! Love and miss you all - until next time!
PS: I almost forgot to mention one of the best parts of my visit to Delhi 2.5 weeks ago. I was lucky enough to meet up with my good friend Suraj for an entire half hour! Ha, we had hoped to spend the evening prior together as he had a layover in Delhi on his way to Bangledesh but unfortunately his flight was delayed and he had to rush into town from the airport in the morning for a very brief, however exciting catch-up session! He also delivered a highlighter which is the most random thing that I had not been able to locate - what a true friend! Thanks Suraj! Next time we'll get at least an hour ;)
I feel so lucky for the opportunity to spend time in both places. Mcleod seems like such an escape from Delhi what with the exhaust fumes, dust and dirt, urine, heat, fried samosas, cow manure and sweat giving way to a calming incense wafting from the temples and private alters through open windows. The two main roads redolent of steamed Thingmo bread and Momos (Tibetan dumplings) and fresh rain. There is a CD shop that continuously plays Tibetan temple chants with a lulling backmusic and even the honking cars and motorbikes are punctuated by the sight of prayer flags flapping from every rooftop carrying the message of peace into the breeze. The program I am running is called "Service in the Clouds" and there couldnt be a more apt name. The clouds are more alive here than any other place I have ever been. They come and go with such purpose and when they choose to stay it gives everything such an ethereal appearance. One day, the staff went for a cup of chai in a tiny little shop just large enough for two benches and a nook for the fire and teapot. As we sat chatting and relaxing after a full morning the beautiful view from the window became opaque and then white and suddenly it was like an invisible hand was pulling cotton across our laps - perhaps that cloud just wanted to join us for a chai :).
Whereas, Mcleod feels like an escape from Delhi, Tashi Jong is an escape from Mcleod Ganj. Tashi is so small most people have never heard of it. Its a close community of Tibetan Refugees in an idealic setting of rice fields and rivers combing brilliant green hills. There are no backpackers, no markets, no traffic, there arent even any roads through town! One small road ends in the town square. In one direction, directly off the square, is the temple complex where monks from the tender age of 6 up learn the ways of budhist life. All day long, you can see them pacing the roof with books in their hands, chatting in the stairwells through ornate windows, circumabulating the Kora (a loop around the Temple including spinning each of 30 prayer wheels), even buying treats in one of two tiny shops in the square (where the owners sit making incredibly intricate wood carvings for purchase and for use in stamping prayer flags). The now familiar garnet and saphron robes strolling around town add a distinctly feeling of content to lovely Tashi Jong.
Off another side of the square is the only quest house in town where the staff stay (the kids have homestays) and then buffering the last side is where all of the laypeople live in a wonderful matrix of slender aisles and houses. Everything is within a 5 minute walk until you cross the bridge and head towards the neighboring indian village and the bus stop a good 20 minutes away.
I began each day rising just after 6 am so that I could do my own Kora. I spun each set of wheels with a specific person/s in mind, continued up the steps to the temple which is one of my favorite sights early in the morning, so colorful and happy. Around to a small room holding 3 giant prayer wheels with rods sticking out of them that rang a bell with each revolution. At this point I'm usually walking alongside other townfolk doing their own morning routine. I'd then pass a pile of stones painted with Tibten symbols and mantras and then sneak off to the left, where I never once saw another person. A path led to the cremation area and beyond that a quaint meadow adorned with hundreds of prayer flags, some faded strings of white, tattered, others fresh and brightly colored to represent the 5 elements (wind, water, cloud, earth and fire). This was my place. My spot, every morning to breath and be with myself as the sun rose and made those flags glow... true peace. It was a wonderful way to start the day :).
The kids day began at 7am. We met and hiked up to a retreat center where we would meet with the mayor of Tashi (a monk) who would speak to us about Budhism, answer questions and teach us about meditation, which we would also do for a portion of that hour. The necessary cup of chai was delivered by a darling little 9 year old girl. At 8, return to their houses for breakfast and to prepare for 3 hours of service either digging holes for medicinal trees, building a fence or repairing the road. Break for lunch cooked by the community, delicious and hearty Tibetan food and then 3-4 more hours of service, this time speaking english with monks and laypeople and then in the local school room with kids ages 5-16. Afterwards we had an activity such as prayer flag printing with a master carver, Tsatsa making (religious ornaments), cooking and weaving and then the kids have some free time before dinner around 7 or 8. A pretty full day but so very very rewarding!
Tibetans and some of the nicest and warmest people I have ever met. In Tashi, we really felt a part of the community. People would randomly come and join in the service. They would suddenly appear with a pot of freshly brewed chai and cups for everyone. The teenage Tibetans spoke pretty good english and actually made pretty good friends with the staff and a couple of the students. The only other foreigners in town are a couple of great chaps, a brit and an aussie (one of the kids affectionately nicknamed them the "accent guys"), who are living there for 6 months teaching english to monks. They have provided many a laugh :). It is just a marvelous place.
As a farewell, on the last night we had a big potluck in the main hall. The teenagers decorated with streamers and each family brought a dish or two. All of the students and staff dressed up in borrowed Chupas (the traditional tibetan dress) and Eric, the other staff, and I even tried to make cookies with extremely limited supplies and frying them on a chapati (flat bread) iron pan... haha, surprisingly they weren't bad! After dinner, we all learned some traditional Tibetan dance and then broke out the ipod speakers and had one serious dance party!! Ha, pictures soon to come hopefully :)
Phew! I feel great to finally give you all a decent update and wish I could snap my fingers to bring you all over here to experience this yourself! Its unbelievable at times and I haven't even been here for a month yet!! Love and miss you all - until next time!
PS: I almost forgot to mention one of the best parts of my visit to Delhi 2.5 weeks ago. I was lucky enough to meet up with my good friend Suraj for an entire half hour! Ha, we had hoped to spend the evening prior together as he had a layover in Delhi on his way to Bangledesh but unfortunately his flight was delayed and he had to rush into town from the airport in the morning for a very brief, however exciting catch-up session! He also delivered a highlighter which is the most random thing that I had not been able to locate - what a true friend! Thanks Suraj! Next time we'll get at least an hour ;)
3 comments:
Wow! You are amazing! The way you're living your life inspires me to be a bigger and better version! Thank you!
Wow Jess! I'm so glad we got reconnected so I can see all of your amazing life adventures.
Do you have a book in the works, yet, dear?
It sounds like you're having an amazing time in India.
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