Where to begin??!

Phew! I have had one amazing day after another! I'm not sure I can keep up at this pace, its almost overwhelming! I suppose I shall work my way backwards so that if the power goes out or something else comes up, at least you will all know where I am now.

I am currently in Manali, a honeymoon destination for Indians and a trekkers paradise. I'm just staying the day since I am racing my way north in order to get to Leh, in Ladakh, in time for my Birthday!! For those of you that know me well, Ive got a tradition of planning some sort of adventure every 16th of July and this one, of all goes according to plan... and I suppose if it doesnt its got just as much potential to be epic :)! Without giving too much away, Ill save that for the after story, I'm planning on making the 18 hour journey up to Leh starting at 2am tonight over one of the most harrowing roads (and the second highest in the world!) to Leh which is in the Kashmir area. From there I will hop in a jeep, grab a bike and ride up to the worlds highest motorable pass, Kardung La and bike the 42K back down where I might just highjack... or maybe hire a camel for a trek... :) Im beyond excited!

I arrived in Manali after a 15hr local bus ride from Amritsar, all by myself... thats right, Im officially on my own and thrilled for some freedom from anyone elses schedule (especially 18 little ducklings!) I was met at the bus station by a man touting his hotel and although I was hesitant, it was early in the AM, I was tired and figured that checking it out wouldnt hurt. It was indeed a nice place and he asked a fair price for a room for the day (about $3.50), plus he booked my ticket to Leh AND offered a free ayurvedic massage!! How could I say no? He zipped me off on a motorcycle and soon enough I was kneeded and showered and ready for a day exploring Manali!

Difference between Day and Night

Upon arriving in Delhi for my last day on the job, Tina, another Rustic staff and now one of my dear friends, asked if I would join her to Amritsar for a couple days before going our seperate ways. My schedule was pretty tight with the 16th coming up quickly but we looked at the calendar and decided I could squeeze it in. Yay! Amritsar, near the western border of India is home the the Golden Temple, the Sikh's mecca and also, an hour bus ride further west brings you to the actual Pakistan border and a guard changing spectacle like Ive never seen before!

After the new batch of kids left at 4am, Tina and I, barely able to control our feeling of freedom, went to bed and slept in for the first time in quite a while. After packing up and leaving our things in the hotel, we took a rickshaw to the bus station, booked a first class ticket and then went for a celebratory lunch of mexican food (best in India I believe :) and margaritas!! We met a pilot from Alabama that bought us each a mojito and the day was turning out perfect! No stopping the indulgence there, we decided to catch a movie before our night bus ride and our only option being Hancock, bought 2 tickets and strolled on in. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to bring a bag in, we had to check it outside in the "private lockers". We went arounf back and just found a parking lot... hmm. We returned with another foreign couple and ran into someone that said it was all the way around, look for a guy with a big metal box. Once more around the back of the theatre and sure enough, there was a man set up in the lot with a tarp over a table and a big metal box. This is India Security for you. Here we have to check our "valuables" with this shady character, tell him exactly how many cameras etc you have which he writes on the bag in chalk and cross your fingers while you are knowingly gone for 2 or so hours. Nice. The movie was alright, Will Smith carried it, but for a brief moment in the AC, comfy chairs and booming sound, I forgot I was in India. Once it was out, we returned to the Secure "lockers" to find a crowd waiting for their belongings. Oh! But what luck! I didnt have to wait because my bag was sitting on the table, away from the man in charge where I could just pick it up and walk away. Mind you, he had written proof that he took my bag... ON my bag so when I took it... ahhh India. I waited for a moment to indicate that I had my bag, dont worry, but he was too preoccupied with the others to worry so we headed off to the station.

A successful navigation of the ultra-modern metro system, led us to our packs and back to the bus station with time to spare for the neccesary cup of chai. What a surprisingly easy day in Delhi!... Does anyone else feel the foreboding? After a superb cup of piping hot chai, we went to the office and were ushered by a teenaged kid to follow him outside the grounds to where the busses where. We waited with a group of people until a minivan came to pick us up and take us to an undisclosed location... Something felt wrong. We should have already been on our bus. We pull up to a string of about 30 "travel agencies" or makeshift wood cubbie holes big enough for a table and chair each. This is wrong. Alas, we knew we had no choice but to allow someone to get us to Amritsar so we waited while a man rambled in Hindi (I vow to learn Hindi at the earliest possible convenience) on the phone. He took half our ticket and while we struggled to communicate and ask for the ticket and write down any important numbers in a feeble attempt to protect ourselves from the scam we were already deep into, a man that spoke some english who was also going towards Amritsar offered to help. Eventually the "agent" exclaimed he had found us seats on a bus! Oh good news! We followed the second man that truly was trying to help, laden with our packs perhaps a half K down the road to a bus lot and he found the right one. We each took a sleeper berth and the driver shook his head and motioned that we had to share one. No, we paid extra rupees, more than anyone else on this old dilapidated bus, we were staying right where we were. Its about an hour after our scheduled departure at this time and for another good hour we put our feet firmly down on the dirty ground. We started to crack as we looked around and saw the other busses had all left and even the man who agreed we had been tricked and appologized, pleaded with us to take the one sleeper and he would help us if one opened up. Exasperated, we gave in and piled all our bags and all of our tired body parts into one berth. Grrr - It was not that we had to have luxury, it was the principal of the matter and we were forced into that, not by choice. It also bothered me than so soon into my Indian foray I had been duped and was not sure if I was learning from it... where had I gone wrong and how could I prevent it from happening again?

One very long, hot and uncomfortable ride, met with a brief reprieve when I did actually get my own sleeper for a tenth of the trip, carried us into pouring rain in Amritsar. We sloshed through flooded streets, jumped on a bus that called for us but we had no idea where it was going, rooted out a rickshaw driver that knew where the only hotel we could remember the name of was and FINALLY, rested our heads in a 200 rupee room (about $5). Phew! As splendid as Delhi day had been, India just had to remind us where we were by night!

In Contrast

Everything is in contrast. Easy day, difficult night. Delicious food, Disgusting garbage. Golden Temples, Greying and decaying slums. Amritsar is no exception. After recharging a bit (of course that included a cup of chai, which may actually have been our downfall in Delhi - Tina "Never!"), we checked out a couple local temples and as the sun returned to dry up the streets, we made the spontaneous decision of heading out to the border to watch the much hyped changing of the guard. Boy were we pleasantly surprised! Not only was it worth it, its a must-see spectacle in our minds! There is a pervasive circus-like atmostphere with Indian and foreign tourists alike buy plastic Indian flags and bags of popcorn, streaming into the 'stadium' seating. Foreigners get special seating near the front and you would have though you were about to witness a championship cricket match or something! Indians proudly waving giant banners and much to our even more pleasant surprise there was a massive dance off in the middle of the street! Ladies and kids only! Naturally we quickly joined the rainbow clad dancers and one could not supress the giant smile that danced its way to you. Long live India! We were surrounded on 3 sides by thousands of spectators, clapping and singing and on the 4th side we could look through the gate to the Pakistani side and see as many "fans" waving flags and eagerly anticipating the show, minus the color and minus the dance party.

For more than an hour, Tina and I danced among the mostle Indian women who grabbed our hands to dance with them and show us various bollywoodesque moves. We even started making up our own for them to copy! One day I'll have to show you "sewing", "Place on the shelf/Put in the drawer" and my personal favorite "Double Dancing A-Okays"! Hehe I wish you could have seen the face of one woman, probably in her 50s - so proud to still "have it" :)

Guards, dressed in dapper uniforms, pants too short and hats with fans on them (for the heat I assume) strolled up and down, half the time practicing their looks of intimidation (for the upcoming stare-down) and half the time enjoying the dancing ladies and even posing for a picture or two. Once it was time to begin, we all took our seats and cheered for our side. A regiment of men took turns high kicking (actually knocking their own hats off!) and speed marching to the gate where they stomped with such force you would think they were trying to send a shock wave across. Ha, the pomp was so entertaining! The Pakistani men, dressed in nearly identical outfits only a bit more menacing in black vs tan, strutted and stomped with equal vigor and even sent over a couple 'He-man' arm poses. Ah, you just have to see it for yourself! Tina and I wished we could sneak over to the other side, just to say we'd been there but then thought better of it in light of all the swords and daggers and barbed wire ;). Oh and that scary stomping... that was the killer.

As I suspected, this entry is becoming somewhat verbose. I just want to share everything with you, its all so amazing! I'll try to summarize from here on out to get myself caught up!

The next day we made reservations at the Golden temple to stay in their free dorm. The Sikh religion is so interesting - more than I ever would have thought and they are also known for feeding anyone that comes and also housing anyone for up to 3 days. We booked 2 beds in the wing reserved for foreigners and went to visit the Mata Temple. This temple was incredibly interesting, dedicated to a female saint that passed away in 1994, it was like a funhouse! Mirrored walls, fake flower garlands everywhere, hundreds of deities and demi-gods from around India represented as you walk a circuit that included caves that you had to crawl through, passing under a cow (and praying/donating to the udders if you like), walking through ankle deep waterways and receiving a tika (blessed paint marking on your forhead) from a devotee! Ahhh, another thing you just have to experience. I sat down near someone that looked important that turned out to be Mata's successor, saint himself. He sat upon cushions eating candies (that he also doled out to kids that came to honor him) and spoke with his own devotees that surrounded him. Suddenly I was brought a bottle of soda and a young girl asked if I wanted some lunch. I declined but she insisted that he was offering it to me and it was really no problem! After a while I aquiesced and grabbed Tina from another part of the hall. We shared a plate of chipati and mystery sauce and even a little dessert. We learned more from the young girl, so sweet and then when I brought out my camera, the saint directed us to take one in front of the Mata idol. He then blessed bracelets of red string that we had seen and tied them on each of us!! We were so honored! We had to leave to get our things from the hotel but that was truly a moment that will stay with me for some time!

After dropping our things at the temple we left our shoes, washed our feet and entered the magnificent grounds of the Golden Temple. I cannot express how clean and absolutely glowing this place was. Truly one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen, with such a peaceful and content air throughout. People circumambulated the great lake, barefoot, taking their time, taking it in. People bathed, stripping down to their "loose underwear" as dictated by Sikh custom and holding a chain if they were afraid of falling in. Despite Tina and I wearing headscarves just as the others, we were still spotted as foreigners and almost as celebrities! Kids came up to us with sheepish smiles and offered their hands, sometimes even prodded by their parents. We were asked the same questions over and over and each conversation went something like this: "Hello!" "Hello!" *Big smiles exchanged* "How are you?" "Im good and you?" "I am fine thanks" "What your country?" or "Where are you coming from?" "America" "Oh, good country! What is your name?" "Jessie, what is yours?". At this point, they would fill in their name, we would say nice to meet you and usually they had exhausted their english repertoire. They would smile at us for a while, Tina would offer them a sticker which they happily accepted and then they would scamped off. I loved it! It was so cute, even they adults would approach us, it just wasnt nearly as cute when it was the teenaged boys that wanted "One snap?!" which inevitably turned into a photoshoot. On several occasions I had a husband around there somewhere, now where did he get off to? :)
Towards the end of the evening, we were patiently awaiting the night view of the temple when 3 girls and a woman came and joined us. We went through the usual script and they seemed to enjoy it so. We tried to venture into deeper conversation like "What do you like to eat?" but an answer of "I like pizza" took about 20 minutes so we regressed a little. Suddenly we were invited to their home for dinner. "You must come TK (Hindi for okay)?" We hesitated for a moment but decided it was another great offer and left with them to grab our shoes. I had happened to buy a mini pizza at a bakery we ran across earlier for dinner and brought that along as a gift. The image of the 6 of us women, scarves flapping in the breeze made by our 2 cycle rickshaw drivers huffing down the road as the sun was setting is burned into my memory. We giggled and passed eachother waving as we crossed town, one of the girls of about 20 year old, hand rested on my arm. Once in their humble home, music was queued and yet another dance party ensued! While we danced the door would open and close and one more person that had been notified of our presence would join what was beginning to be a crowd. Brothers, neighbors, friends and an adorable puppy that had a matching tika of his own! Come see the Americans we brought home! Snacks appeared and water that we couldnt drink. I had thought to grab a learn hindi book with me but it turned out to be of little use unfortunately and so what was lacking in speech, was definitely made up for in body language. We were told how happy they were and that we were "Sisters now, friends, is it not?" Without knowing why, we were ushered upstairs, the girls all clammoring excitedly and the boys following suit where they showed us 2 incredible hand embroidered bed covers strung up on looms. Again, I was without words "Bahud Sindhar!" I repeated, Very Beautiful! After enough admiring time passed, a cupboard was flung open and plastic gemstones produced. They wanted to sew them onto our outfits! What a perfect memory! We each got a few new jewels specially chosen and sewn on plus a few for the road. I thought my cheeks would be sore the next morning from the breadth of my smile! I had only just that day strung some beads around my ankle that Id purchased from a child street vendor and once we returned downstairs, I offered it to the girls and Tina followed with one of her anklets... I love it!! They were so happy! After a tasty dinner and many many pictures with every member of the group we had to beg our leave. The pizza I had given them was brought out as dessert and we learned it was Monika's first time eating pizza (the same who had told us she liked it!). Haha, what was lost in translation was found in mutual laughing eyes expressive smiles. Two of the boys escorted us all the way home and even bought us icecream! What a day!!!
Okay, okay, I have spent far too much time in this inet cafe (with only one cup of chai! :) so if you managed to make it this far, please do leave your feedback. As I said before, I miss all my friends and wish so much you could all be here to experience this!!!

Escape no further

I'm once again in Mcleod Ganj after a week in Tashi Jong that truly flew, 2 long travel days to and from the north (one of which involved one very upset tummy on an all out angry road full of bumps, potholes, cattle, hairpin turns and a stuffed jeep), and 2 very hot and humid days in Delhi. On the last day, the kids had the opportunity to shop (which they whole-heartedly took advantage of - the bags piled in a veritable shrine not to a hindu god but rather the power of the dollar) and then spent the afternoon at a country club where they could swim in a private setting, relax, get henna and a good meal before they flew out. That night we successfully traded 10 kids for 36 (yikes!), Delhi day tour the next day in monstrous bus and then a jeep caravan of 8 yesterday! Phew! They seem like a great bunch *knock on wood* so I'm looking forward to getting to know them.

I feel so lucky for the opportunity to spend time in both places. Mcleod seems like such an escape from Delhi what with the exhaust fumes, dust and dirt, urine, heat, fried samosas, cow manure and sweat giving way to a calming incense wafting from the temples and private alters through open windows. The two main roads redolent of steamed Thingmo bread and Momos (Tibetan dumplings) and fresh rain. There is a CD shop that continuously plays Tibetan temple chants with a lulling backmusic and even the honking cars and motorbikes are punctuated by the sight of prayer flags flapping from every rooftop carrying the message of peace into the breeze. The program I am running is called "Service in the Clouds" and there couldnt be a more apt name. The clouds are more alive here than any other place I have ever been. They come and go with such purpose and when they choose to stay it gives everything such an ethereal appearance. One day, the staff went for a cup of chai in a tiny little shop just large enough for two benches and a nook for the fire and teapot. As we sat chatting and relaxing after a full morning the beautiful view from the window became opaque and then white and suddenly it was like an invisible hand was pulling cotton across our laps - perhaps that cloud just wanted to join us for a chai :).

Whereas, Mcleod feels like an escape from Delhi, Tashi Jong is an escape from Mcleod Ganj. Tashi is so small most people have never heard of it. Its a close community of Tibetan Refugees in an idealic setting of rice fields and rivers combing brilliant green hills. There are no backpackers, no markets, no traffic, there arent even any roads through town! One small road ends in the town square. In one direction, directly off the square, is the temple complex where monks from the tender age of 6 up learn the ways of budhist life. All day long, you can see them pacing the roof with books in their hands, chatting in the stairwells through ornate windows, circumabulating the Kora (a loop around the Temple including spinning each of 30 prayer wheels), even buying treats in one of two tiny shops in the square (where the owners sit making incredibly intricate wood carvings for purchase and for use in stamping prayer flags). The now familiar garnet and saphron robes strolling around town add a distinctly feeling of content to lovely Tashi Jong.

Off another side of the square is the only quest house in town where the staff stay (the kids have homestays) and then buffering the last side is where all of the laypeople live in a wonderful matrix of slender aisles and houses. Everything is within a 5 minute walk until you cross the bridge and head towards the neighboring indian village and the bus stop a good 20 minutes away.

I began each day rising just after 6 am so that I could do my own Kora. I spun each set of wheels with a specific person/s in mind, continued up the steps to the temple which is one of my favorite sights early in the morning, so colorful and happy. Around to a small room holding 3 giant prayer wheels with rods sticking out of them that rang a bell with each revolution. At this point I'm usually walking alongside other townfolk doing their own morning routine. I'd then pass a pile of stones painted with Tibten symbols and mantras and then sneak off to the left, where I never once saw another person. A path led to the cremation area and beyond that a quaint meadow adorned with hundreds of prayer flags, some faded strings of white, tattered, others fresh and brightly colored to represent the 5 elements (wind, water, cloud, earth and fire). This was my place. My spot, every morning to breath and be with myself as the sun rose and made those flags glow... true peace. It was a wonderful way to start the day :).

The kids day began at 7am. We met and hiked up to a retreat center where we would meet with the mayor of Tashi (a monk) who would speak to us about Budhism, answer questions and teach us about meditation, which we would also do for a portion of that hour. The necessary cup of chai was delivered by a darling little 9 year old girl. At 8, return to their houses for breakfast and to prepare for 3 hours of service either digging holes for medicinal trees, building a fence or repairing the road. Break for lunch cooked by the community, delicious and hearty Tibetan food and then 3-4 more hours of service, this time speaking english with monks and laypeople and then in the local school room with kids ages 5-16. Afterwards we had an activity such as prayer flag printing with a master carver, Tsatsa making (religious ornaments), cooking and weaving and then the kids have some free time before dinner around 7 or 8. A pretty full day but so very very rewarding!

Tibetans and some of the nicest and warmest people I have ever met. In Tashi, we really felt a part of the community. People would randomly come and join in the service. They would suddenly appear with a pot of freshly brewed chai and cups for everyone. The teenage Tibetans spoke pretty good english and actually made pretty good friends with the staff and a couple of the students. The only other foreigners in town are a couple of great chaps, a brit and an aussie (one of the kids affectionately nicknamed them the "accent guys"), who are living there for 6 months teaching english to monks. They have provided many a laugh :). It is just a marvelous place.

As a farewell, on the last night we had a big potluck in the main hall. The teenagers decorated with streamers and each family brought a dish or two. All of the students and staff dressed up in borrowed Chupas (the traditional tibetan dress) and Eric, the other staff, and I even tried to make cookies with extremely limited supplies and frying them on a chapati (flat bread) iron pan... haha, surprisingly they weren't bad! After dinner, we all learned some traditional Tibetan dance and then broke out the ipod speakers and had one serious dance party!! Ha, pictures soon to come hopefully :)

Phew! I feel great to finally give you all a decent update and wish I could snap my fingers to bring you all over here to experience this yourself! Its unbelievable at times and I haven't even been here for a month yet!! Love and miss you all - until next time!

PS: I almost forgot to mention one of the best parts of my visit to Delhi 2.5 weeks ago. I was lucky enough to meet up with my good friend Suraj for an entire half hour! Ha, we had hoped to spend the evening prior together as he had a layover in Delhi on his way to Bangledesh but unfortunately his flight was delayed and he had to rush into town from the airport in the morning for a very brief, however exciting catch-up session! He also delivered a highlighter which is the most random thing that I had not been able to locate - what a true friend! Thanks Suraj! Next time we'll get at least an hour ;)

Trading Places

A quick entry to let you all know that I will be heading up to Tashi Jong today, a small rural village east of Mcleod Ganj. I was supposed to spend 2 weeks in Mcleod and the second two with the new group in Tashi but, since we have 36 kids then instead of 10, we decided I was needed more in Mcleod. I would still like to experience little Tashi, so I will trade with Tina just for a week.

The basketball court is looking good with the patch of ground leveled off thanks to the hard work of the kids in the rain and mud. My one bit of bad new is that yesterday I managed to lose ALL of my pictures taken thus far in India! Trust I am more than a little upset about this. I stuck my card into a card reader provided by the inet cafe and somehow it zapped it so that I now have no images on the card... I had some brilliant shots of a Tibetan protest, beautiful Indian construction work-women dressed in their elegant saris, the kids making chapati with the locals at the Sikh temple... I was really looking forward to sharing the next round and now, not only do you not get to see them, I no longer do either. *sigh* Life goes on, but this definitely stings.

Hopefully I will get a chance to update while in Tashi, otherwise, I will be in Delhi once again around the 26th and back up in Mcleod after that!

Facebook pictures

For those of you that do not have Facebook (you're missing out! ;), here is a link to the first round of pics that I have uploaded. Enjoy and let me know what you think!

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2011926&l=3af3a&id=60100993

The 3 P's

Today we finally picked up the kids from the airport and my work has begun. Delhi was sweltering again but with more humidity this time. We even got a brief rain in the afternoon which drove us into the National Museum rather than the tour of the Red Fort as I'd hoped. The museum was a pleasant surprise and although I only had enough time to skim the first floor, I saw some amazing art - some of which was more than 4,000 years old! The kids seem great despite being drowsy from jetlag, so I am really looking forward to the program getting started! The kids also got to visit a Sikh temple, cover their heads in bright orange (tourist) kerchiefs and the best part was getting to make chapati (a type of bread similar to a thick tortilla) in the community kitchen where all devotees come to help when they visit. I even made a couple myself and stirred a giant (maybe 5ft wide) bowl of onions over a raging fire. Kids and elderly alike sitting around the platforms... you must see the pictures!

Yesterday, the other staff and I had one last day to get some of our own errands out of the way. I did not have much to do, so I wandered the labyrinthine streets until I found myself at one of the main markets once again browsing the hundreds of stalls for gifts. Despite the fact that there were 50 or so Indians around me at any given moment, I never ceased to hear "Madam! Madam! Yes, come and have a look! Just look. Looking is free. Just step in side! Madam, yes, I have something for you. Please Madam!" It was really quite amusing to see the tired shopkeepers perk up and grab something to show my or even follow me for 5 minutes offering me deals "special deals" for something they thought they saw me glance at. Like little shadows. I did find someone that I think I trust enough to make some ready-to-wear saris (since I do not know how to do the complex pleating), which is exciting and I could not get enough of the brilliantly colored materials! Even outside the shops, you see 6 meter long 'banners' hanging from apartment balconies. These banners, being not just laundry but a representation of the women within... Ah, the women of India, so elegantly draped in such rich flavor, are the jewels of this country that can otherwise appear so harsh.

The dust never seems to settle in this city of 17 million people. Today the tour guide jokingly cheered that India would soon overcome China since they do not have the one child rule but on a serious note added that Indians suffer from the 3 Ps: Population, Polution and Poverty. Sadly, so evident. Each day I venture out from the AC oasis that is my hotel room, I see people from all walks of life, I see people in traditional and modern dress, all forms of transportation (more than once I've seen a bicycle rickshaw driver on his feet, pulling his bike over a particular rough road laden with a customer. My favorite form of transport is the motorcycle rickshaw and my least favorite is the bicycle rickshaw), ever so constant honking to the point that I wonder if it is some form of morse code they are speaking with each other.

Every once in a while, I admit my friends and I would duck into a cafe to cool off and drink an overpriced coffee or my favorite as of late, a green apple soda from a place like 'Cafe Coffee Day'. It's a guilty pleasure as you pay 2-3 times as much, but it's a short, comfortable reprieve from the onslaught of Delhi.

So, I still have some catching up to do in regards to the first weeks whirlwind experiences but for now I must get some sleep before another 12 hour journey north - this time, with 10 kids en tow! Until next time! :)

Delhi!

I am booked on a night train tonight heading back down to Delhi to pick up the first group of students. Im looking forward to the program starting and getting to share in the exploration of these kids! I will have a couple days though before they get in to finish up my own shopping and do a little more sight seeing. I wish I could bring a little of this cool mountain air with me, as Delhi was stifling the one day I was there before, but I'm afraid I'm just going to have to melt.

I haven't much time left in the cafe but I wanted to catch up just a bit more.

My first day in Delhi was spent sightseeing. Dressed in long linen sleeves over a long dress, we hired a jeep (with AC - high rollers ;) for the day to take us to various temples and ancient monuments. I was literally salivating over the colors! Women dressed in bright Saris of every possible color with gold and silver embelishments. I was impressed by the fact that they were in pristine condition and perfectly pressed and clean, in direct contrast to the city streets they walked. Piles of various vegetables, some of which I couldn't identify were to be found on every corner and all types of mobile shops including chai, samosas and other interesting street foods, shoe shiners, ear cleaners, shavers, tire fixers and who knows what else! Anything to earn your daily rupee.

I was lucky enough to have my very own run-in with an ear cleaner! I had already heard from another Rustic Pathway staff about a time that he had been conned into getting his ear cleaned. They actually pack your ear full of crap as a slight of hand - you never see it coming and then they ask 5 times the initial price to get it all out. My friend ended up refusing to pay, walked away, and it wasn't until 6 months later when he visited his own doctor that he discovered he had a blob of gunk the size a marble in his ear! Needless to say I was warry - but on the other hand, I kind of enjoy humoring guys like this once in a while... a lesson perhaps I should learn :). To make a long story short, I allowed this kid to just look in my ear, which prompted him to tell me "Oh, you very dirty! You like celebrity but you are too dirty!" I told him that wasn't the first time I had heard that ;). He did not release my ear for the next 5 minutes while I walked away from him and he even swabbed my ear producing some black gel substance supposedly from my ear. Ha, by this time, we had a few on-lookers enjoying the show and I had to bow out.

I bought a couple pieces of Indian clothing, my first Salwar Kamis and believe I got taken in the first purchase. The entire outfit would fit about 3 of me and I was told afterwards by another shopkeeper it was "baba gi size" Live and learn :). I have eaten some amazing Indian food - like nothing I have had anywhere else and there is still so much left to try!

My time is up - off to Delhi and hopefully more before long!

First Impression

At last! I've tried to sit down in an internet cafe for the past several days and give you all some belated details regarding my first week in India and it seems as though so much is happening that I can barely start to organize my thoughts before something else takes my attention. India is truly a beautiful, colorful chaos and I believe it's going to take me a while before I can delve deeper than the top layer which in and of itself is pretty intense.

Truly, such a contrast to countries that I have visited before, where there is at least an attempt at order. Major monuments placed neatly across town, shops in shopping districts, the better side of town, the side you know better than to wander alone... but here... all of this previous eperience is as good as skis in downtown Delhi.

I arrived safe and sound last week after a surprisingly comfortable 30 hour flight. Jet airways has officially surpassed KLM and Lufthansa as my favorite airline. I also managed to get through US security with a half full bottle of vitamin water which I had forgotten about - too bad I didn't bring my Nitroglycerine with me (read: that's a joke FBI/TSA! Thank you for not making me throw it out). I also made it into India with two apples in my carry-on - Lucky me!

The amazing thing about Delhi, at least my first impression was the masses of people. Keep in mind, I left the airport around 12:30 am and there was still traffic! Still rickshaws and jeeps and vans and cows and dogs and people swerving about, deftly and narrowly avoiding one another (usually). I just cannot believe that so many people fit in one confined area. It is so contrary to nature, where generally all life besides human kind, tends to populate a particular space to an acceptable, harmonic balance. Not us. We, the obstinant human race that we are, abide by no rules and seem determined to pack as many of us in, next to, on top of an underneath as we can. I cannot imagine living in a city like this. That being said, it makes me all the more intrigued. It is such a way of life that is so completely foriegn to me, I long to understand and if I am lucky, peel back a couple layers and live just a little while in this beautiful colorful chaos.